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Posts posted by Cuong Nguyen
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Feeling a bit motivated this year in tackling my long haunting no start issue and I suspect it's the damn factory alarm giving me crap.
How the hell do I do it LOL.
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That's code for alternator going out. Probably the voltage regulator or whatever. It's a hit and miss with remanufactured alternators.
I cannot offer any tips or advice since I've never worked on an 02 model other than unplugging the battery first lol. -
It's held in place by a woodruff key like the crank pulley. I'm figuring you already have the belt off and what not so you can spray it with some penetrating lubricant and some light taps should work it loose....or wedge something behind it and leverage it out a bit. It's been a while since I've done it...
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You sure that pump is bad? How do you know your pump is bad? Did you test it to see if the pump is actually getting power ans actually pumping out fuel? Yoi can disconnect the fuel line feeding to the fuel rail to make sure it's pumping.. the pump should prime for a few seconds when you turn your ignition on ans you should hear your pump click on.
I'm using a cheap pump off Ebay for 60 dollars. So far so good.
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It could be the ignition switch going bad. You could hot wire it or bypass it to see. I'd check your connections to make sure they're not loose or corroded. Check the voltages too as well as the starter relay..
I had the same issues and replaced the ignition switch and so far no problems.
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What i didn't know was that part is different between thr 2wd and 4wd. I did my 4wd conversion and found that out eventually.
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Curious, what is your mileage on the truck?
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Thanks for the laugh this morning!I got one, disregard this post.. this site is not helpful at all.
Sent from my Pathfinder
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It was cheaper to just by a new maxima alternator 90A. Bolts right up after you swap out the pulley. I had to file down the OE pulley for clearance (YMMV). Easy 20A upgrade. I still need to upgrade the wiring as it's not cutting it for the occasional winching.
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Hahaha. That surging is all too familiar with me. I deal with it on a weekly basis. The later models (94/95) came out with a TSB where they added a pigtail with an external ground to the MAF harness plug to the sensor. Poor ground or corrosion/connectivity will cause that idle surge and stalling when rolling to a stop.
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This is done with the engine running? I have really not heard of this.
What I have heard done was having the injectors cleaned and flow tested (I've done this) and most folks replace faulty ones as needed/indicated.
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On 3/11/2021 at 4:05 PM, onespiritbrain said:
Now I have a waterfall of an oil leak coming from somewhere...better not be the heads! I believe its a camshaft seal or maybe the front crank seal. We shall see...I'm adding 2-3quarts a week at this point.
Damn. That's a lot of oil. Have you figured out the source?
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Edit: crossed the fuel hoses at the pump.. all good now other that the sputtering and missing. Guessing from the bad fuel..
Truck won't start. Fuel related. I prematurely thought it was my junkyard pump going out since my tank is slight rusty. Pulled the pump to see that the pre-filter broke off. Swapped in a new pump and nada. So assumed that the fuel filter is clogged. Pulled the filter and it was dry. Disconnected the line and placed it in a bottle and primed the pump. I hear it prime but nothing is coming out... I'm sure I connected fuel lines back correctly.
What am I missing? I turn the ignition on, I hear pump prime and stop. Turn off the key and I hear a click from a relay seconds later.
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You can try a bolt extractor for rounded heads or weld an open end wrench to it.
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Yep. Rusty tank from sitting too long. Still trying to find a good tank.I've still yet to have a failed Nissan OE pump, on these trucks at least, after many years. They simply just don't seem to die. That looks like it had been sitting in a rusty tank too.
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Check the small rubber hoses going to the evap canister and the lines going to the fuel pump and tank.Hi Everyone,
It has been awhile but I wanted to update this and follow up with a few more questions. I did the following last weekend:
- Pumped out all the old gas from the tank. I went through the pump so I could see the inside of the tank. Since it was stored in a Garage in CA there was no rust.
- Bled the Brakes and greased the caliper pins. Thanks to everyone for suggesting this, the brake fluid was really old and I definitely felt a difference replacing it!
- Changed the power steering fluid,
- Oil change,
- New battery,
After a little hesitation she started right up with no warning lights . I pumped up the tires and drove it around a few blocks with no issues.
Here is where things go bad and I need some advice.
I went go get a smog test so I could pay all the back fees and it passed all the tests except for the last one. It was a Evap pressure test. It looks like there is a leak between the gas tank and the charcoal canister. The Smog guy said that it usually is a bad fuel filler neck and this is a common failure for older cars. Does anyone know of a common fail point to check first?
The next question is a bout the doors. I know that I have the common door lock timer fail as it locks itself a lot even with the key in the ignition. My problem is that I cant unlock the rear passenger doors, I can see the pin try and move up and down when I try and lock and unlock but is feels stuck. Are you able to take to door Panel off with the door closed or do I need to get a slim jim to open it?
I know that some of this may sound like I should just go out and try it myself; but the truck is about a 7 drive away from me so I have to try and remote diagnose problems first and then try them out.
Thanks again everyone, any advice is welcome!
You can unplug the door lock timer because it'll try and apply power to the lock actuators if it is malfunctioning.
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Well, it was a good run. Junkyard pump's filter disintegrated and killed it. Going to pick a new pump motor off Ebay now.
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Nah. No whirring of the pumpI pulled out the evap box to figure out why my heater whistled and struggled to move air. The evap core was chock full of pine needles and mud that probably used to be pine needles, which explains a lot. With that in the bin, and a fistful of mouse nest removed from below the heater core, the system is stronger, quieter, and at least 70% less likely to give the gift of hantavirus.
Cuong, do you hear the pump priming when you turn the key?
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I'm thinking my fuel pump died. I could not get it to start. Normal I'd smell fuel from turning it over, but nada.
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On 11/29/2020 at 2:04 AM, RustFlames said:
Not sure why the end pic didn’t work this app is so buggy
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIt's amazing what a little cleaning and paint can do.
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Hey Pam! It's been awhile! Did you get rid of the old pathfinder for new one?
I've never personally done it nor have I seen what the r50 compressor looks like, but It should be kind of easy to do. I"m not sure if you have room in the engine bay to pull the pulley off though. Generally, you remove a nut the hold the clutch in. pull that off. get a 3 jaw puller thingamabob to pull the pulley off. crossreference the bearing and press the old bearing out.
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Was that you that posted pics of the board on facebook?
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Make sure your terminals are not corroded along with the wires. It does seem like your starter is failing. Could also be from bathing in oil and mud which kills the starter faster.
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Congrats!
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factory alarm bypass...How?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Thanks everyone!