PATHFINDER95NI
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Posts posted by PATHFINDER95NI
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Hawairish
Hey man, thanks so much for replying, I really appreciate it. Posting those schematics is a huge help. I looked for the FSM and where it once was, its gone now. I think Nissan made them take it down or something. I bought one on Ebay, but the guy is taking his sweet time to ship it.
Sorry about the simple questions, but I want to be absolutely sure before I dive into this. When you write that I need to " replace the Park/Neutral Position Relay with the Clutch Switch, or wire it between the Brake Switch and the Hold Relay and bypass the PNPR". Are you explaining it like the manual is here on page 14 from the manual?
Yes, as I was reading up on this I noticed in a few threads that the 3.5's had a power valve on them for the automatic equipped R50s. To correctly convert a 3.5 equipped R50, you have to replace the upper and lower intakes, amongst other items.
Once Im done with this, Ill gladly create an addendum to this manual to help any other R50 owners that are looking to convert their autos.
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10 hours ago, hawairish said:
- Yes. I run a t-case from an MT Xterra on my AT Pathfinder (04) so can at least confirm the mating pattern. The lip on the front cover baffled me to; seems it was for seal lubrication since the cavity between the MT and t-case contains gear oil, whereas the AT cavity is dry (there's an output seal on the AT and an input seal on the t-case). The lack of a lip from an AT unit on an MT seems inconsequential, but it may be the case that those TX10s also ran gear oil instead of ATF. Nissan used both in the TX10, and considering there'd only be one seal separating gear oil from ATF, you'd probably want to considering flushing out the TX10 to run gear oil.
- The driveshaft yoke will fit the output shaft all the same, but the real question is if the transmissions are the same length. The FSM specs driveshaft lengths; as long as the rear (or front) drive shafts between an AT and MT for your model year truck are the same, then it's a pretty safe assumption the MT from a donor will be the same length as your AT.
- Unless you want to be into things for the long haul, I'd not go this route. I'd assume nothing bolts up, and everything needs to be brought over; just buy the Xterra. Otherwise, the regular MT swap shouldn't be difficult. My buddy converted a 00 Frontier AT I had to be manual; pretty much same exact job you're thinking of. Keep in mind you'll still need more than just the transmission: clutch pedal, master and slave plumbing/parts, floor panels/covers, center console, etc. Bypassing the shifter lock-out is trivial, and I don't recall if he had any issues after disconnecting the AT control unit.
Hey, thanks for taking the time to answer some questions, I appreciate it.
After a bit of reading I did see that it seems that the AT TC will work, and that makes a lot of sense. Using two different TC's would have been pretty costly at the time. I also read that the driveshaft is the same, so that's cool.
I pretty much came to the same conclusion. It was just a passing thought anyway.
Now, the next thing Im thinking of is the cruise control. I did a 5spd conversion on my '95 Suburban and the wiring to make the cruise control work, was too intense so I never got the CC working. This manual doesn't cover the cruise control wiring, but I know from working on the Suburban that the CC cancel switch was on both the brake and the clutch. How the heck do I make this work on the Pathfinder?
http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/Transmission Conversion Manual_final.pdf
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I just ran across this, it’s an interesting read so far. It got me thinking about cutting the two engine mounting sides and welding the 5spd mount to the 6spd body. Of course it brings into question, why not just swap in the entire 2gen Xterra drivetrain? https://www.xterranation.org/index.php?threads/6-speed-swap-aka-project-pipedream.6959/
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Yeah that’s what I figured. The wording in that manual had me wondering though. I’ll make sure I get those bolts
Yes, second gens had the six speed through their entire run. Sure would be nice to get that in the R50, but I did compare the mounting surfaces of the trannys and they are completely different, so without an adapter plate, there’s no way. It seems like it’d be worth it, I’m not sure why no one has done it yet.
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The 4spd auto is dying on my '99. I hate the auto and I'd hate to put another in. I found a manual that shows pretty much how to do the swap. I've converted my '95 suburban to an LS/5spd combo, and I've replaced the carpet in my pathfinder so I'm confident I can take this on, especially since there is a manual for the manual conversion available.
A few questions remain:
1 - Will the autos transfer case be used with the manual?
2 - Will the autos driveshaft be used with the manual?
3 - Cant the Xterras 6spd be used if the Pathfinders bellhousing was retained?
Any help would be appreciated and Ill post pics along the way.
Thanks,
Nick -
I’ve got a ‘99 and I’d like to do some EXU tuning. I looked at HP Tuners, but their website says that Nissans built before ’08 have K-line ECU’s and aren’t supported. So either swap in a VQ35DE or find a different tuner. So who makes tuning software for our ECU’s and what can and can’t be done with this tuner?
Thanks
Nick
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Put in a new loaded strut due to wallowed out strut mount that I installed a year ago. I noticed Monroe put the spacer ON TOP of the strut mount. Last year I put the spacer UNDER the mount. Has anybody else made this mistake?
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I actually resolved this. It was a combination of lack of grease and some debris blocking the track.
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The title pretty much sums this up. Truck has 235k miles. The sunroof was working fine until it didn’t. The motor sounds fine and the rails are well greased and nothing in its way. There’s no binding sounds, it just sounds like it normally would when at the fully open/closed position. I took the motor out to inspect for missing teeth, but there’s just dust and normal looking teeth.
After a bit of research it sounds like it might be a position sensor issue. I’ve looked at the reset procedures and they all start with the assumption of the sunroof being fully closed. I cannot for the life of me force the sunroof closed without worrying about shattering the glass. Do you guys have any ideas?
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I appreciate the reply guys. I will just be going to the junkyard and swapping seats, see what fits. Ill start w the same year Maxima and go from there. Thanks again!
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Gentlemen, I have a 99LE that needs new seats. I’ve looked through the junkyard for a few months and all the seats I find are in the same condition. So that got me to wondering, I wonder if any of Nissan‘s other models seats would fit the Pathfinders? Has anybody tried this? I would think that maybe the Maxima or the Altima would be the best choice, but of course there is the Quest. What do you guys think?
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When I swapped an LS into my 95 Suburban, I found a LM7 for $450 at a salvage yard, a harness for $45 on Craigslist, and I already had my tranny so I didnt need that. My Suburban needs yearly smogging and it passed with flying colors. My trick was, I took it in late on a Friday afternoon, one of the last cars to get tested. I figured its friday afternoon, all the seasoned guys are outta there, it should be a breeze. It was. I passed no problem. Of course the new engine tested much cleaner then the old unit, so that helped. The LS will test cleaner then any VG/VQ engine, so I wouldnt be too worried.
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Chevy's got some really dumb designs. So does Nissan. (Seriously, what rocket surgeon designed the WD21 steering linkage?) If you've got an engine you like and know how to rig up, I say go for it. Yeah, pushrod V8s are old tech, but I'll bet it's a whole lot more compact than the twin-cam VH. Looks like the guy who tried VH swapping an R50 had to delete the steering box and go full hydro just to get the engine to clear.
I'm helping my dad cram a Ford 302 in his Triumph TR4a, so you can guess how much I care about brand loyalty.
Im the same way, Im about as loyal to GM as they are to me.
A 302 in a Triumph? Mmmm, an LS w/dry sump sounds better
I am going to start a new thread, instead of continuing to hijack the OPs thread. But I did want to share this before I go. It is a couple LS motors sitting next to a VQ motor. The LS motor is indeed a mouse motor when compared to the VQ.
Hmm, cant figure out how to post a pic from my phone. Thats ok, its gonna be in my new thread.
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Yup, that's about the one thing I don't like. I don't feel like the 3.5 is terribly underpowered (even with high gearing it'll turn 32's at 90mph easier than the aerodynamics think is possible...lol), but it sure it thirsty. I never saw more than 17.1 bone stock driving like a grandma. 12-14 is the new norm. If an LS can give 25 it may wind up on my to-do list...it would certainly keep the R50 as a viable DD for at least another decade!
Yeah, its terrible. I can take low HP, but the fuel consumption should be inline with the power. I thinking the all aluminum block, the Nissan electric fans, and the 6spd AUTO will help fuel economy get into the 20's with ease. Things like displacement on demand could be a bonus, but Ive heard it can be temperamental. Yeah 16 is my high, in the 5yrs Ive had this, Ive never seen 19mpg. No matter how miserly I drive it.
You should take a serious look at it, with a 6spd manual, I think the MPG's could be even higher.
The only thing that gives me pause is the rusty strut mounts. Ive taken a look at mine, they look fine. Id have to look into them more in depth before I committed to a swap.
Now heres a guy to put an old 350 in an R50. The LS is physically smaller then the 350, so I'm thinking the LS swap is looking more and more feasible.
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Just a general opinion of GM. The first 4.3 had issues with rounding the cam lobes because they used soft metal. The 350 diesel was a piece, they actually used the spark plugs holes to put glow plugs. My father in laws pickup has three different shades of red on the dash from the factory because GM couldn't get the different plastics the same color. Everything about the revived Malibu. My wife had a camero that the seats were actually turned inboard a little to fit the car, so you sat in it a little sideways. I had a 350 in a pickup that bent push rods way too often.
Chevy has a habit of being behind the curve with engine technology. I remember when I was a mechanic and had to work on GM they were about ten years behind everyone else, expect Dodge who were about 15 years behind. I feel the same way about Chrysler as I do about GM.
They also have a history of putting engineering behind marketing, for example the camero where they wanted a look regardless of what it did to the driver. And of course all the issues in the last 15 years due to the same issues.
However, their saving grace is an excellent aftermarket.
I edited my last post. I meant to put a emoticon at the end of the first sentence.
True, GM did fskc up in the past and still to this day. Honestly, I would rather them gone out of business then getting bailed out. But they did hit it out of the park with the LS motor.
Power is not the main concern, MPG is at the top of the list. I just cannot stand how bad the 3.3's fuel economy is. Even at 16-19mpg, I'm not happy, especially with the lack of power. I'm thinking with an LS swap and 6spd AUTO, I should be touching 20 in the city maybe 24-26 on the highway. I'm really looking forward to that.
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Well opinions are like assholes, everybody has one.
Where do you get your info from? Everywhere Ive read, they have praised the reliability of the motor. Post your info, Id like to see what you are referring to.
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I appreciate the suggestion, and understand about keeping a Nissan truck all Nissan, but the truth of the matter is the LS motor is the bargain of the two. The aftermarket has wider support and the initial buy in will be much cheaper. I plan on buying a donor truck from Copar for dirt cheap and then parting it out.
Not to mention the LS is a much tighter package. Ive seen an LS next to a 3.5, and there is no contest.
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Im looking at doing the same. I have a 99 w/a 3.3. The gas mileage of a V8, with the power of a 4cyl. LS is the way Im going. The 3.3 and 3.5 are just terrible engines when you take power and fuel economy into account. The LS is a sweet motor, but shoehorning it in seems daunting. That is until I saw GMs LV3
285hp/310tq, and its shorter then a LS. That and a 4wd 6L80E would be tits. What do you guys think? Brakes would have to be a consideration. I want all OEM equipment. That means scouring the interwebs for info on swaps from Patrols, Xterras, Armada/Pathfinders. Electric fans would be a must, again looking for OEM. Youll be wanting to source Corvette/Camaro accessory brackets, they are quite narrow. There is a plethora of oil pans to choose from. I dont believe this swap will be as expensive and difficult as everyone thinks. Ive done an LS swap before, and in the end it was the engine harness integration that was the most difficult. http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-engines/lv3/
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Well the radio in my '99 is giving up the ghost, so I'm looking for a new head unit. I'm looking for OEM, aftermarket is too flashy and too many buttons. How much newer can I install before the harness plugs don't match? Anything?
Found this, originally for '05-'07 Fontier/Xterras. The plugs match the 1999 radio. The only problem is the orange backlighting. https://m.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-Xterra-Frontier-Rockford-Fosgate-Radio-6-Disc-Changer-MP3-CD-Player-AUX/172824848018?fits=Year%3A2005%7CMake%3ANissan&epid=566142261&hash=item283d29e692:g:BaMAAMXQaBRRjB~0
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I need to replace the hinges on my trucks drivers side front door and hinge pins on the passenger door. Whats the best way to go about this?
From what it looks like, and written in this thread, the front fender has to come off? Really? Just to change out the hinges? Is there any other way to go about this?
Thanks,
Nick
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Sorry for being absent so long after asking a question guys but Ive been busy with work and finding a solution for the 'Finder. Well thanks for the all the replies, but I was able to get the key cut after all!
Yup, after all the searching high and low I call to order a new drivers door lock cylinder (thats the lock the key was broken in, and now cant be removed) and after talking with the parts person, she tells me to call 1.800.NISSAN1. SO IF ANYONE NEEDS A KEY CUT, JUST CALL 1.800.NISSAN1 AND THEY WILL BE ABLE TO GET YOUR KEY CODE IF YOU HAVE A VIN AND ARE AT THE DEALERSHIP.
Thanks again!
Nick
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Yup, some younger, inexperienced hands broke off my OE key in the door and now I need a new key. I have called all the Nissan shops/dealers and they have said that the code has been erased. I am looking at taking out a door cylinder and having that redone but I was wondering if there are any other steps that I may have overlooked.
Thanks all!
Nick
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PB blast them a couple of hours B4 getting to them and do it several times then use an impact wrench to take them off...I would almost be willing to put $ on it they wont break
theres one in the garage secition I think but i have gone from TBI to MPFI and if I could find a donor truck for an X or Fronty I would do that esp if it was with a SC
A lot of people have put in the 3.3L but I think they kept their intakes the same you may want to search around a little bit.
Yeah I think the 3.3 would be a waste of time. Nissan made a HUGE improvement when
they shifted to the 4L. Ill check the garage section, see what I can find.
Nick
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umm if you are doing just the throwout bearing then you may as well get the flywheel resurfaced or new, replace the clutch and do the rear main seal and possibly the rear cam seals and maybe the seal around the drive shaft...the work...is a lot of work but can be done in a day with a helping hand and the right tools...
no clue what you're refering to as far as the 3l/5sp and 4l/6sp
Yeah Ive talked with a few friends and they have said the same thing, "While you're down there you might as well fix xxxxxx". But I am looking to replace both the engine and tranny with a Xterra engine/tranny swap so for now its just going to be the TOB thats going to be replaced.
What I meant is has someone swapped out the stock Pathy engine with an Xterra combo yet.
Ok, I did this in a 95. Your title says 95 and your signature says 96. Please straighten that out.The job is doable for anyone with some knowledge, a good place to work and proper tools.
Tools: TALL jack stands, floor jack, 24" extension minimum + universals, clutch alignment tool and tranny jack.
Place to work: Cement floor, much preferably in doors and heated
Need to: Pull shifters, wire connectors, torsion bars, starter, slave cylinder, cross member, tranny mount, and remove the tranny (condensed version).
Replace: clutch, pressure place, TO bearing, retaining spring.
Inspect: Tranny input shaft/bearing/seal for integrity, fly wheel for the same/surfacing, rear main seal for leaks.
Reassemble: All.
Thats the cliff notes version. Nothing wierd about it, just a lot of work and a few pain-in-the-arses. You have the FSM, right? If not, download it from this site. Hint:It's cleverly hidden in the open...
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Thanks, fixed that. No I dont have the FSM, I just have a Haynes manual. Thanks for the hint, Ill take a look around.
replace pilot bushing...we both forgot that...Check, thanks!
I did a auto to manual swap on a '90 2door. I didn't have to take the torsion bars off. Count on breaking a bolt off of the exhaust y-pipe into the passenger side manifold. I broke 2 of them even with heat and days and days with repeated PB blaster applications. They can be drilled out though. Ohh, and if you don't seperate the transmission and transfer case, you're going to need an extra set of hands.Yeah Im not too worried about the bolts, four years ago I swapped in some Thorleys and used some ARP stainless bolts with anti-sieze compound on there.
Thanks to all for the replies, when I do attempt this Ill let you all know how it goes.
Best Regards,
Nick
MANUAL SWAP 5SPD OR XTERRA 6SPD?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Thats some good looking out there, thanks for doing that. Ill confirm my ASCD is the first part number, but I think you are correct. So that clutch safety would just be pulled from the donor vehicle and two wires ran to the PNSS relay spot right? Just put the two wires into the corresponding pin location?
If that is the case, would pin 18 on the TCM be telling the gauge pack to turn on the cruise light when cruise is enabled? Do I need to worry about that or does the ASCD also do that with its pin 13?
A rail shifter? Huh, yeah Im sure the electronics would go haywire if it was noticing a different input.
Thanks again for your help.