Hawzzy
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Posts posted by Hawzzy
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This is really sounding more like a battery issue. You earlier said you tried four other batteries. Were they new or in an unknown condition?
Check the water levels in the battery. You should also have the battery load-tested to see if it's good.
I recently had to replace my old Optima yellow-top. I ended up replacing it with a Sears Die-Hard Platinum maintenance-free battery. All is good now.
I tried three others....all are used...all are charged and showing 12.5 (ish) volts. One is a marine battery...right off our work boat...it works great for us daily. In fact...the only way ive been able to get to work this week...is by carrying around, and using that very marine battery, to boost my truck twice a day!!!!
This is why i havent shelled out the $$$$ for a NEW battery yet...havent been convinced yet that this is where the problem lies...BUT maybe its time.
Like i said before...i switched out my battery for the good one mentioned above...it boosts the truck just fine...BUT when i put it in the truck...figuring it would fire right up...NOPE....dash lights dim and just click..click...dead!!! Take it off...test it...shows 12.5 (ish) volts.
I'm screwed.....(pardon the french)
Tye
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What is the voltage drop at the battery when you try and start it?
Crap...good question...i'll check it!!!
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Thanks for all the tips and suggestions everyone....heres the thing...ive cleaned and tightened the terms...i cant see how i can get the clamps any tighter, there isnt any slop in them and they dont wiggle at all...but as soon as the booster cables touch this battery/posts from another vehicle or battery...its all good!
Still confused and getting frustrated.............Tyler
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O.K....so i just went out with the meter.....the battery reads 12.5 at the terminals, the same at the engine (positive post/neg on engine)
The dash lights are dim/barely visible...and the battery says 12.5 v...as soon as i hook up a second battery (or boost it)the dash lights are fine and it starts....you would say then...its the battery...so i rotated that batery out and tried another....it reads 12.8 v at the terminals and on engine ground and it still wont even try to turn over and the dash lights are barely lit!!!
i wanna pull my hair out......
So i put the voltmeter on the terminals once it fired up and it was everchanging from 13 v AND HIGHER...IN FACT the meter wouldnt read it a couple times.
Oh ya...i took the terminals off just last week when the problem started and i cleaned them with my dremel tool and a wire brush...in fact the positive is showing signs of green corrosion already.
Tye
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Ive assumed the battery was dead...when i crank it and there is nothing...then i boosted it. I then changed batteries to one i new was good..and nothing. BUT with a good battery in and a boost it starts everytime..and runs just fine!!!
When we boosted it, we hooked the cables to the battery terminals...not the engine/metal.
Maybe its in the cable somewhere..i dunno...i DO have a voltmeter, so ill check all the points listed above..thanks...im really not that electrical savvy...so this is a crap-shoot for me!!!
Tye
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I need some major help...here the issue
I undid the neg. on the battery (to clear codes) when i went to put the neg. cable back on, it was leaning against the battery holder and once reconnected...the battery was COMPLETELY drained...i mean COMPLETELY!!!!!!
So, i boosted it, drove home no prob!!!!!!!!
Once home i turned truck off and NOTHING...NO BATTERY POWER!!!!!!
Ive tried FOUR batteries, and the truck WILL NOT START WITHOUT A BOOST from another vehicle or a good battery.
I use a good batttery to boost it with NO PROB...then i put that good battery in, thinking it should start..and NOTHING..then i boost it with the battery i just took out of another vehicle, and OILA!!!!! IT STARTS!!!!!
Cant figure it out, and I NEED MY TRUCK RUNNING!!!!
tye
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One thing I would like to know is how to stop the motorized antenna from coming up when you turn on the radio. There is no fuse or relay that I can find to stop it. One person said the only way is to cut the power wire to the motor and install a switch in-line to stop it
I would like to be able to stop it from going up when on the trail so it doesn't get banged up and bend by branches. I can turn off the radio to keep it down, but I would still like to listen to the radio while on a long trip on the trails
I cant remember if you have a stock radio or an aftermarket...but when you install an aftermarket radio, there is ALWAYS a BLUE lead called "power antenna"..traditionally used as a +12 volt when unit is powered up to give +12 signal to an amplifier to turn on...I havent looked at mine, but if you did an install properly, you wouldve bought a wiring harness to attach to your new head-unit, and interupting the feed from the power antennae might do the trick....It wont be the 12 volt power source...but the +12 volt "switch" so to speak.
Its TOO cold for me to rip my dash open right now...or id go do it right now too!
Tye
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After this car, the companies know that they can't break from the mold so suddenly. No matter how functional it may be.
I cant beleive you posted that....when they were first designed...MY WIFE LOVED THEM...then they came out and everyone hated them enought that she changed her tune out of SHEAR EMBARASSMENT....
I did like the practicality and the rear hatch tent...but ewe...nothing could fix that things case of the UGLIES!!!!
Tye
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My clock tends to run a little fast. It seems to gain a minute every few weeks or so. I know solder won't fix it, but has anyone else noticed that?
I cant answer that one...my clock hasnt worked long enough for me to tell...one or two days in a row at the most...and it hasnt worked at all for a couple months.
Tye
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thanks, first thing my wife asked me was "did you get out and kick his ass??"
Would she have yelled at you if you DID kick his ass???? LOL
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Are those Old Man Emu struts???? How long have you had them??? When i searched for my stuff in the summer...there wasnt a pair to be found in North America...I made dozens of phone calls...finally got a call back from an ARB rep who said they were removed from the shelves for a "redesign" I later found out that they were catastrophically failing within the first year of service on a regular basis. (Arb birdie told me)
I Really wanted to go with all OME...at first i "settled" for KYB struts...but now realize they are the @!*%!!!!!
Tye
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Have a pic of it spaced out 1.5"? Why would it rub if it was spaced out more?
I dont know Y...it kinda baffled me, but that is the way it is!!!!! Ill take a pic today...not much to see tho...my 15" steel rims have the same or more BS than the stock ones..with the spacers on now, they just barely stick out past the flares.
Tye
They are rubbing on the fender now, not the struts or anything likt that
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Ya Im debating keeping my car low and trying to keep it like I have, which is lower than stock, but maintain the weight somehow
Or if I should lift it 3" rear with WJ coils, 2" medium duty front. And throw my wheel spacers on it.
Mind you my wheel tucks in behind the fender right now if I get 2 people to step on the hitch, if I were to space them out, is there a good chance of hitting the fender?? Ive never done spacers before and dont know much much lift is needed to clear if I were to space them out and go for that wide look
I think they only offer the MD coil for the back...about wheel spacers...look at my sig see my list of mods...i didnt rub on my fenders UNTIL i put on my 1.5" spacers on the front. Its just a little, and only when in reverse!
Tye
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I know that when i was searching for my stuff, you could get KYB GR2 struts and shocks for under $200.00 on EBAY (brand new) Now i dont know much about their shocks but the struts are OEM replacements. You just need to get your coils then. And if you arent going to disconnect your rear antisway bar or get a SFD to lift your rig 6" then you dont need longer shocks or brakelines. And there is only ONE size of strut you can get for the Pathy.
To put that price in perspective...The Gr2 struts here in Canada range from 140-200$ EACH....thats a BIG difference in price...maybe a good solution for a college budget!!!
Tye
P.S. The prob with replacing just the coils and not the struts is...you have to remove them and take them apart ( a risky job) just to replace the coils...sooooooo its worth it to just do it all at once. The rear is simple...its the struts that are the PITA!
Besides...new stronger coils and 10 yr old shocks not a great idea imho....if they arent already shot they will be soon after!!!!
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Not good...just to make you feel better here:
I was giveing my girlfriend at the time (now my wife) about 18 yrs ago, a lesson on changing the battery, carefully explaining the difference between pos/neg. You know the colour diff, and the +/- symbols......well i had just bought a Crappy Tire battery, not an exact replacement...well it would only fit in the battery holder one way ( the opposite to the orig.)...so i put it in and continued explaining the dangers of getting the cables wrong to my wife when i hooked up the second cable, amid a small shower of sparks too, yet i continued to tighten the cable down.
Needless to say smoke and such insued.....ALL fus. links fried, fuses fried, and worst of all the ECM!!! A big mess indeed.
I FEEL your pain...i was only 17 yrs old sooooo i blame it on my pretty wife distracting me...LOL
Tye
I know that doesnt help your situation...but dont feel too bad..youre not the only one!!!
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I guess I will just give them a call when Im off nightshift, Id rather buy local anyways. There site just didnt list anything about them
Do you personally run OME springs?? I hear good things on there ride quality. Ill tell them my story I guess and see what they say, keeping medium duties in mind. Having a drop in spring would be nice instead of having to weld something onto the perch like I was going to for the WJ coils... but there so much cheaper
Yepr...i have OME MD in rear and HD in front of my 01...ill be honest...when i get a couple people in the back and some gear...it sags. These springs were made for load carrying properties more than "show" lift properties. know what i mean??? I searched ARB home site for distributors...i even called them, they directed me to all the ARB, and OME dealers within a couple hundred km radius!! Matt at National 4wd centres in Burlington...you need to casll these people, 95% of websited dont have all their items...esp. something as obscure as a "lift" for a pathy.
Tye
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I do like the idea of WJ coils, Ill check them out. Seems pretty easy to install if all you have to do is weld on a piece of 3" pipe to the stock perch, and cut off the top pigtail....
Being as I plan to get even bigger with the stereo, WJ coils see very affordable option
heres my 2 cents worth...I would go with the OME MD springs in the rear...they have a stiffer spring rate than the stock 115 #inch. They give 0.5" of lift over stock height with 100-150 lbs over stock weight. I think that you would be at or just below stock height with that much weight and M.D. OME coils. National 4wd in Burlington got my OME coils for me...they are very close to the same price as the states.
TYE
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didnt the guys at Krypton Fab. show some of those not too long before Christmas...or just discussing it???
TYE
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I think thats too broad a question with no real single definable answer...whats your goals...uses for truck...etc????
Tye
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I **think** the Rocky-Road package includes spacers or something, which make up the difference... I found that confusing too.
nope...its actually referred to as a .5" lift because each grade of spring...LD, MD, HD, give .5" of lift respectively with xx # of lbs over stock weight respectively. It is confusing, it does lift 1.75-2" and some of the part # are mixed up too.
Tye
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Welcome here and home C....im jealous bout your 5spd
App...skids are real hard to find...but a member here...Fleury...will make you skids in either aluminum or steel!!!! Reasonable prices too.Tye
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Im assuming youre running a killer stereo...with some serious bump...how many subs and are you running any Caps in your setup??? (in regards to your voltage drop) With enuf thump...the alt. and extra batteries might not be enuff...or did the donkey d$#@ sized ground fix it for ya?????
Tye
Oh ya...if this is the case...then show pix pls!!!!
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haha! lol!
A lady opened a small shop in Gravenhurst...15 mins from my town...population of 10000 maybe, spread out over a lot of area...tourist town in summer. I beleive she sold dreamcatchers and other artsy stuff...she called it Dreamworks by "enter name here) and she was closed down by Steven Speielberg!!!!! She couldnt afford to fight and was too stubborn to give in and change her name after a few yrs established!!!
Tye
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Over the max mark is never "normal"
I find it gives false readings like I said when you chck when its warm as oil has just run up the fill tub and gets on the dipstick when you pull it out.
Since there is a cold mark, why not let everything flow down back into the pan and get an uncontaminated reading??
Warm might be what the manual says, but I can never get a consistent reading
I havent posted this yet BUT....i had my tranny repalced in my 01 and ive complained of BAD mileage and lack of power for the last year. ( my maf goes intermittently too) and CEL on too, A couple of months ago i checked all fluids and couldnt get a good read on the ATF...so after having a neighbour check as well (with method from manual) we decided to check it cold. We figured that if it was cold there is NO way it should give a reading over the HOT area...sure enough it did...in fact ive drained 700 ml out of the tranny, and the dipstick still reads at the MAX...THIS WORK WAS PERFORMED AT A NISSAN DEALERSHIP.....ILL POST ABOUT THE HORRIBLE EXPERIENCE I HAD LATER!!!!!!! They did other damage or reported other damage to be repaired after it was put all back together and brought back TWICE!!!!!!!
Anyways...ive gained IMHO roughly 10-15% power and gas mileage back after draining the fluid.
So there...
Tye
CRAZY ELECTRICAL or STARTER ISSUE?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Good stuff...ill give it all the old college try on Saturday.
Tyler