jyeager
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Posts posted by jyeager
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jyeager- I don't want to build it myself. I don't have the time or motivation. I read on the pinned topic about the SFD that online orders at KRFabs are not being accepted. Huh? Can anyone weigh in on this?
Also, what are your opinions about 2x4 stock being cut and drilled vs blocks that use a different shape/design. Probably my main concern with 2x4 stock is that over time it could look like this:
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I have seen others who make their SFD drop brackets like this:
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I do agree, though, that the most important parts are the strut spacers which have the proper camber angle.
Well, just call or email KRFabs. Perhaps they just aren't taking the orders online at the moment for technical reasons.
A lot of guys have those 2x4 blocks, ask around to see if anyone's blocks have bent. They are pretty much in straight compression, rather than sheer (except when cornering hard when doing autocross!). Consider welding them in. You could also internally gusset them if you are worried.
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This is great!
I'm glad to see you doing this. I've done mine since we last talked about our trucks (back when I was newer on this forum).
So there really is no one making SFD kits for R50s except for KRFabs.
The reason his 'kits' don't include the rear end parts is simply because they are off the shelf components you can source more cheaply elsewhere.
So here is what you will want for the rear:
springs: Jeep WJ lift springs. 3" springs net you 4" on the R50. Get 4" lift springs for a WJ and get about 5.5". You can get a 5" spring and maybe get 6.5"+
Springs must have half of one pigtail cut off to fit the top spring perch. KRFabs now offers a coil spring adapter that nets 1" lift and I am assuming, lets you use the spring without cutting the pigtail? Check on that if you might want that option.
Shocks: for the 4" lift everyone has been getting F-250 shocks. They bolt right in with the small exception that they need bushings to net the right spacing at the eyelet. Are they suitable for 6" lift? Sure, but if they aren't long enough, they could limit the articulation. If you want maximum articulation then look up their specs.
You wouldn't expect this, but my Rancho 5000 shocks for the F-250 are not valved firm enough in my opinion. It's not bad, mind you...just not optimal. But the more expensive Rancho 9000 shocks are probably adjustable??? So you would have no problem tuning them to your liking.
You can probably use KRFabs' PHB drop bracket with 6" lift, even though it's for 4" of drop. Or you can make your own if you have a welder.
If you want to make your own 4" spacers for up front, you just need some square tubing stock, cut and drilled appropriately. You could get the steering spacer from KRFabs, or buy it yourself from the vendor he sources his from.
I bought the kit and a few options and have no buyer's remorse.
It's his 4" strut spacers that have the correct angle built in to maintain camber, that I really like and that you would probably want to buy even if you custom make the rest of the lift yourself. But then again, you were wanting a turnkey solution. So you will want his full kit and just those aftermarket springs and shocks to finish the job.
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My guess is that the security system isn't seeing the key turning the lock cylinder and that's why it set it off.
If you go over to the passenger door and unlock that side with your key it will turn off the alarm.
I don't know how to simply disable the system...it might be an easy thing to do, or it might create other side effects/problems that you won't like. But it should be able to be figured out by a careful reading of the service manual and schematics.
Simplest fix might be to diagnose why the security system doesn't know you unlocked your door.
Might just be a bad connection inside the door. Here again the service manual's schematics will prove valuable.
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That's no problem whatsoever as long as you keep tabs on your oil level and don't ever let it drop below the dipstick's hash marks.
You could leave that without any concerns whatsoever....just get in the habit of checking your oil level every time you put gas in it.
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The high beams on the other hand are outrageous. Super bright. Like that a lot. I'll have to dig back into the housings, maybe remove the whole headliht assembly to see if there is a way to adjust the bulb so I can lower the direction of the beam.
You can't adjust the bulb, but the entire assembly can be adjusted up/down left/right with the adjuster screws.
If that's not a good solution you could try to take your housings apart and craft a solution. I believe you can remove the glass from the metal by heating in the oven at 400 degrees to soften the glue.
If you simply scatter too much light upwards in to other people's eyes, perhaps blacking out the bottom surface of the reflector?
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Can you take a close up picture of your bulbs? Mine have diodes on 2 sides, one side for low and one side for high beam. When seated properly the diodes are on the sides of the bulb. This doesn't seem to add a lot of range to the high beam, just brightens the low beams. I tried to rotate them so that the diodes are up and down but didn't get them to sit right.
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I may not grasp all the ins and outs of headlight design, but I would have expected the diodes to be top and bottom. With the high beams very possibly being on the bottom which would reflect off the bottom of the reflector thereby shining upward down the road.
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"Lately, the starting issue has since gone away but now I have experienced an intermittent hesitation, mostly after the engine warms up. Basically feels like a misfire and typically happens under hard loads, such as accelerating up-hill on the freeway. The other day I was able to 'create' the misfire by jolting the steering wheel hard in order to 'shake' the truck while at medium speeds. (around 30mph)"
This is what I've experienced a number of times over the years when the plug wires need to be changed. You have new plug wires, but if one of the boots isn't tight, it can create a situation where it's just a bit hard to jump the gap and will miss when the load is high, such as your uphill freeway situation.
But I'm perplexed by your ability to induce it by swerving your truck!
I would check in to the ignition coil and the rotor under the distributor cap. I know your distributor is newly remanufactured, but do not know the status of your ignition coil itself.
I once had my ignition coil crack and my truck would try to stall when I came to a stop light. I would have to put it in neutral before stopping and keep my foot on the gas pedal. It was fine above 1300 rpms, but would stall below that...the problem was simply the cracked coil.
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There are no better CV axles available. But you could always go custom if it were worth the $ for you.
I keep hearing that 1.5" is the maximum safe lift. You may simply have gone 1/2" too far.
You could remove the front spacer and put an equal amount of spacer inside the strut top hat. You would ride the same height, but the wheel won't be able to travel any further downward than stock and your joints would be safe.
You could also leave it the way it is, but add limiting straps.
Most people add front lift with stiffer springs (about 1.5" or so) and perhaps 1.5" spacer above the strut. Then, only the spacer above the strut is added to downtravel, keeping you within safe operating range, but netting 3" of overall front lift.
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Put some UV dye in your oil and then a few days later look at it with a black light.
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- Did these codes show up after you changed the plugs?
- Or did the starting problem show up afterwards?
- Is it hard to start when the engine is warm but starts right up when it's cold?
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I was going to remark about how bright those LED headlights are, then I see that you had your off-road lights on too so I don't know what to think...
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If you have air in the system, you can try to bleed it like this:
- start the truck and turn the temp to full hot for at least 10 seconds. Turn off engine. (that opens flow through the heater core)
- open the air bleed port (it's at the top of the engine in the water feed line)
- remove radiator cap and fill to the top, or until coolant starts to come out of the bleed port.
- close bleed port and top off radiator
- replace radiator cap
- fill reservoir to full mark
run the engine until hot and alternate the rpms between 2000 and idle a few times.
shut the engine off and allow to cool completely
then refill radiator and reservoir as necessary and repeat
Or you can substitute normal driving and just top off the coolant before each trip you take until all air is out, which will be indicated by no drop of coolant level when checked cold.
Typically, air in the system gets forced to the radiator and stays there (since coolant is drawn from the bottom of the radiator). So bleeding out stubborn air isn't generally a concern. None of this will help you if you have an unresolved issue with your cooling system. Make sure your cooling system is sound. I suggest you find out exactly where that small leak is coming from....that might be bringing in air every time it leaks.
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My zombie lights are the roof lights mounted on the rear of my roof rack and aim behind the truck. Good for backing up or checking for zombies
I ordered all my lights off of Superbrightleds.com
There is a great post on Nicoclub detailing every bulb that you need for this.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/topic563777.html
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Once you get over 30,000 lumens, they can vaporize the Zombies too....not just spot them.
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Roof lights are self-explanatory. What are the Zombie Lights?
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You say you are getting fuel all the way to the rail. How did you determine this?
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I love a happy ending!!! Good job!
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Where can I find that relay? Maybe it's easy and cheap to replace it?
I don't know, but the most likely place is the fuse block under the dash (above your right knee when you are driving). There should be labels.
When I was measuring the voltage, the connector was disconnected and I probed at the front. Does it make any difference?
Yes, since it wasn't connected, we can be sure the 'amp' in there wasn't the device pulling the voltage down.
I'm ok to buy a new speakers if they'll work fine. About which particular 2 wires are you talking about? Red and black?
The 2 wires are at pins #2 and #6 in the connector.
The colors are labeled L/Y and L/G. I'm not sure what color L indicates (perhaps lavender), but there will be a Yellow stripe for #2 and a green stripe for #6. Those are the signal wires from the stereo that provide the music.
If you back those pins out of the connector (or jumper a wire end into the connector) and connect them to the spades (or connector) on the door speaker you should hear music, although it may be half the volume of the rear speakers.
One of them is + and one is - so keep them in the right polarity on the speaker...I'm not sure speakers work when the wires are reversed.
The wires that continue on to the speaker are probably the same color anyway, so that should help you keep them straight.
So to summarize. You are disconnecting D3 from the 'amp' thing ignoring wires 1,3,4,5 and just sending 2 ad 6 directly to the door speaker.
That's the way you would typically wire up a coaxial speaker...just 2 wires coming straight from the stereo. btw, when you do this, the tweeter won't work because it's not hooked up.
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All looks good except for that situation where things go flakey and the voltage is being dragged down.
I really can't say whether it's a problem with that device (little amp thing?) in the door, or the relay that sends the voltage there when the radio is turned on.
Question: when you were measuring the voltage, was the connector still connected to the thing and you were probing the pins from the back? or was it disconnected and the probing happening at the front of the connector?
So regardless, at this point, if you are more inclined to get it working even though it costs a little money, then you can get a set of component speakers and replace the existing speakers. You would only use the 2 wires providing the audio signal and the other other 2 wires feeding the tweeters.
In fact, if you plan to do this, you might want to temporarily wire up those 2 wires to the existing door speaker directly (bypassing the circuit board in there) and see if they work with the other electronics out of the way.
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Yes but you will get back into CV angle issues. Plus you will lose the natural rake the truck has. Also if you load it up in the trunk it will sag in the back and not the front. That's why I have 6" lift in the back and 4" in the front:
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Hey, I installed the KRFabs SFD along with the recommended Cherokee 3" coils in the rear and I have what I consider the perfect rake. My rear is higher than the front.
I haven't loaded the back down with large amounts of weight yet, but have loaded about 150lbs in the back and it wasn't any lower than the front.
What did you have installed in the rear initially that didn't match your 4" front lift?
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I'm not at all worried about the natural rake I want it to set level. Will lock out hubs help with the cv problem it will very rarely go off road it will be a rig for the wife.. A street queen mostly
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Depends. Your increased CV angle can put increased stress on your rubber boots, causing them to crack/tear early in their life. This leads to contamination of the joint and premature failure. Using manual hubs mitigates this problem and takes care of you.
However, if your lift droops your front wheel far enough to physically reach the limits of your CV joint it will be damaged in one simple moment, whether your hubs are engaged or not.
If you limit the downtravel of your front suspension so as to never exceed your CV axle's limit then you are fine with your 2" of lift. This will be the case if you lift with springs. They make you ride higher, but don't change the amount of down travel available. However, the downside to this is a harsher ride and 'topping out' which is when the wheel droops and BANGS at the limit of the shock travel. It's startling, but apparently not damaging.
If you put an extra 2" of spacer above the strut, then I am not sure if you will exceed the axle's angle limit. If that DOES exceed the limit you could install limiting straps.
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I unbolted and removed #1 coil and spark plug, keeping the spark plug pressed up in the coil, and then held the spark plug end a mm away from the valve cover and had a helper crank the engine and witnessed zero spark/arch
Incorrect test. The valve covers are insulted from the engine block by the gasket/RTV and the bolts don't make the continuity because of those rubber grommets. Now, it's very likely something bolts there and completes a ground, but I wouldn't be sure of that unless I tested it.
You need to do it again with the threads of the spark plug touching solid, clean metal (no paint) and that metal must be something grounded to the negative battery cable (like the block....except for the paint).
Although, it would probably work against a painted block because it's such high current....if it works, you've validated spark, if it doesn't....you can't conclude anything.
If you are VERY careful with the distance, you could forego the spark plug threads and keep the electrode very close to a truly grounded piece of metal. You can test the metal you are thinking of using (say a metal bracket) by checking resistance between that spot and the battery negative cable with a multi-meter first just to ensure you've got a good spot to test for spark.
(note: I said very careful with the distance because if electrode is touching, current will flow without a spark and if it's a little bit too far away, it won't jump the gap)
Another thing....in your video of the cranking, it was cranking very slow. Your battery sounded pretty low. I just want to make sure that your battery voltage is high enough to actually light off the truck. It would be a shame to go through all this just because your battery was only providing 10 volts while cranking and you didn't realize it.
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Ok. So you measured volts across pins 4, 5 and we see lower voltage than expected (must be done with radio turned on).
So now you need to measure from pin 4 to a perfect ground to see what your voltage is on that wire. That's the Red wire.
See if you can get a 15+ foot length of wire and physically run it from your battery's NEGATIVE terminal to the door where you are working. Connect your meter to the red wire and the wire you have running to the NEGATIVE battery cable. You should see 12+ volts. If not, there is a problem along that wire somewhere.
If that tests good (12+ volts), then check the ground wire (pin 5, black wire). Turn the multi meter to Ohms (200) and measure the resistance from pin 5 to your perfect ground wire (the one you ran from your battery NEGATIVE over to where you are working). You should see 0 Ohms or very, very close to 0.
If not, then your ground connection is the problem.
Just make sure not to touch this temporary cable that you have to any live wires carrying voltage or you will blow a fuse somewhere. Connecting your multimeter leads between this wire and a hot wire is fine.
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I did pull 2 coils and spark plugs today to check for spark, they werent soaked, but definetely smelled of fuel. I confirmed I am not getting a spark at the 2 coils I checked. I also used my code reader in live data to confirm the ecu is showing 200rpm while cranking the car so to me that would show the crank position sensor registerring. There are still no codes.
If the ecu was somehow all of the sudden taken out by my iacv code Ive had for years, is this even the condition it would cause? (no spark) I am curious if I am able to even get a ecu from ebay/junkyard or is that openning a whole new can of worms with the keys and incompatible computers and such. Is tehre a way to tell which ECU may be fried, I feel there are a few ECU's on this truck, Ive yet to ever see any of them during the years Ive had it
Exactly how did you confirm you are getting no spark?
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Ok. To measure volts put the voltmeter on the DC 20 setting, not the 200 mv setting you've been using.
Since touching things in there makes them work intermittently, then I will say that you probably have a bad connection in one of the shared wires.
If you look at the wiring diagram you will notice that each front speaker has 6 wires running to it. The wire at pin #4 is the one that supplies 12v power when the stereo is turned on. If you probe across #4 and #5 (the ground) you should see 12.6 volts (without engine running) or 14.x volts with engine running.
If not, you have a problem with your power or ground wire...and both speakers take 12v and gnd from the same source wire somewhere under the dash.
The wires at pins #6 and #2 won't be the problem. Those are the signal wires from the stereo and they are completely independent from each other from side to side...but your speakers kick in and out together which leads me to believe the problem is with the shared power or ground wires I mentioned above.
And the other 2 wires just run up to the tweeter and the tweeters are kicking in and out together with the door speakers.
So check the connector on the driver's side speaker and make sure all pins are fully seated in the connector, free of corrosion, and tight fitting.
Old-timer finally joining the SFD bandwagon
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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You don't have a cut-off wheel or a sawzall? Hmmm... Have a friend cut them.
For some reason, I never had a moment of heartache cutting the new springs I had purchased.
But I would prefer a solution that doesn't require cutting....A simple insert for the top perch that accepts the pigtail would solve that.
The WJ springs are a good option because they are so plentiful and inexpensive in different lift options.
If you have found something even more plentiful, then kudos! And these have both ends identical to the Pathfinder springs?
Out with it! What vehicle???