Jump to content

morpheus

Members
  • Posts

    412
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by morpheus

  1. Most seat heaters are just a basic heating pad hooked up to a switch and 12v.

     

    You can pull the pad out of just about any make/model at a wrecker, doesn't have to be a Nissan, just has to have the right amount of surface area.

  2. Maybe this explains why the picture I sent them once upon a time disappeared too, but I didn't worry about it that much, I just figured they didn't like my truck that had a bunch of their parts on it, and I've been buying from other companies since.

  3. By far, the best choice now for lighting is an led light bar.

     

    I have 4 HID KC day lighters on my roof, and they work very well, but I added a light bar underneath them this summer, and now I don't even use the HID's anymore, and am actually considering removing them completely.

     

    The light bars come in different lengths from 12" to 40". I put a 20" on the front and want to get a couple 12" ones for the sides and back to simply use as "work" lights angled downwards.

     

    The led bars don't throw the light quite as far as the KC's do, but it completely fills all the area that you need to watch for animals running out on the hiway etc...

     

    esa7e4a9.jpg

    • Like 2
  4. Is that the ONLY abs code?

    That code usually indicates a abs pump failure, but they rarely fail on their own.

     

    What usually happens is something else goes wrong, and the owner ignores it and doesn't fix it, which causes the abs pump to run way beyond what it was designed to do.

     

    I would reset the system, look for the first failure to come up and address that first and maybe you'll be lucky and the pump/actuator will be ok.

     

    Alternatively it is possible the previous owner ended up fixing the minor problem already to find that the abs pump is bad and decided to sell rather than fix.

     

    You're best bet is to try to find a used wrecker one, as new I believe they are probably in the $2000 range.

     

  5. ^This one actually has a section for the tbi vg30i engine used in pre 90's pathfinders and terranos. Too bad the manual only gives basic information like remove "intake manifold" without listing what needs to be unhooked from it. I'm guessing this is just a service manual and a fsm is much more detailed?

    No, the factory manuals are just as vague. Unless its something you specifically need to know ie: remove engine, then remove oil pan, they pretty much assume you know what you're doing. The only place the FSM gets specific is when you're diagnosing a component, then they tell you step by step right down to what wire to probe.
  6. There isn't the specific vin number on the Nissan engine, there is an engine code at the top of the bell housing. There is a data base of what engine code went in what vin # at the factory, but that will obviously change if an engine gets swapped.

    Other than that code, the only place iirc that an a actual vin shows up on the block might be a simple peel and stick sticker that won't be there after a couple years.

     

     

  7. Never never never never. I can't stress this enough. Assume a picture in the FSM is correct. They are always basic representations of a part, sometimes not even close to what the actual part looks like.

     

    They seem to do their best to get it close, but don't go replacing something because the line drawing in the FSM looks different.

     

    Always compare it to a new part if available, or another truck or two.

     

    That's my PSA for the day.

     

  8. So we had a meeting today with some clairification.

     

    The pictures that I posted above, are infact, repairable, and they are expecting a repair within the next month or so.

     

    For them to be unsafe to drive, that rust hole must be right at the bottom, where the actual frame rail runs.

     

    If you're looking at your truck, look for where the brake flex line and the steel brake line connect at the bracket.

     

    Basically, there has to be a perforation BELOW that to be unsafe. Above that, and it's just a hole in the inner fender.

     

    They will still be fixing that, but it's ok to drive for the next 30-45 days till they finialize the repair.

     

    There's also the 2nd location to inspect at the top for broken spot welds.

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...