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*Updated: 02/06/2022 5:26PM PST

fleurys

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Posts posted by fleurys

  1. I need to order some bleeder screws for the rear, but unfortunately I felt short of getting the specs of it and apart from knowing the nissan part number (41128-8J100) which cost almost as much as a complete wheel cylinder, I am asking this :

     

    Does anyone know what are the specs and possibly a good alternative to the nissan oem part ? (part number please and/or link to order)...

     

    Tks.

     

     

  2. I will chime in...even though I have tried to skip the subject because there is alot of "experts" on facebook and all that have their opinions and people that know me, knows that i'm not a big fan of arguing over a keyboard.. Some would say I lack diplomacy ..but i'll give it a shot

     

    Lifting a an ifs front with either stiffer springs or spacers does exactly the same thing to the half-shaft...which is to accentuate the angle..  I have said it many times, the quality of the half-shaft is essential and I am glad that someone actually made some tests and measurements... Thank you !...

     

    I have run my first trail pathy hard as I had 2 arb lockers installed on it and I ran at first the ac coils, then my spacers (2.5") and I never had binding in them. mind you they were OEM Nissan... One thing I did was to change the neoprene boots with thermoplastics ones made by rockford...I actually made a post about that explaining how I made them add this boot to their catalog...that's another story..

     

    The only time I broke something with a cv was doing a full send climb, locked all 4 on a steep hill and my right tire got stuck in a rut  while having the skinny pedal floored... that ended up in the halfshaft snapping in two.... not the cv joint....the shaft... you can barely hear it at the end :https://photos.smugmug.com/Trail-gazoduc-4-jours-juillet-2010/i-FrTDTBn/0/bf7a4533/640/broken-cv-640.mp4

     

    That being said, I also did limiting straps on my struts in order to prevent too low of a drop..therefore saving the over extension...

     

    I have over 1000 kits sold and of course my kits are for the beginner off-roader that don't want to break the bank in order to start...but I have demonstrated that with some modifications (limiting straps, thermoplastic boots and good oem quality half-shaft), you can go a long way.

     

    That's all i'm gonna say as I just wanted to share my opinion and experience... I'm sure others will have something to say about this and I will respect that.

     

    Bringing a product to market is not an easy thing...there is always some that will say why it is crap and why it will not work or it cost too much etc...  All I have to said to you is bravo and keep at it if you believe in it. I'm sure you'll end up with a great kit to sell and i'll be the first one to refer you guys when your kit is ready for primetime.

    S.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  3. 7 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:

    I don't think there are a lot of R51 guys around here at the moment. I guess it would depend on how much body lift the R51s need for popular tire fitments. Seems like you could make the 1.5" kit, but make it stackable, so a customer could order one kit and be at the limit of lift without further mods, or two and jack it way up if that's what they're after. I assume either option would require different bolts, though, so maybe that wouldn't work as well as I'm thinking.

    Tks for the feedback.. I have created a poll on FB and I seem to have more answers there...  The bolts are the issue right now and that is why I have doing this poll... 

    S.

  4. The good news is that you're getting near... after reading a bit and doing some test with my own 01, here's what I think...

     

    You're not getting sparks because I think the ecm is not sending spark signal because there is an issue with the NVIS (Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System)....  Doing a test with my 01, when putting the key to the ON position, the security light goes OUT and DOES NOT come back until I either start the truck (which is stays off) or that I remove the key (which is starts blinking every 2.6 sec)....

     

    For helping you in your diagnostics, I have include a link for the 2001 fsm.. I have put all the multiple parts in one so it is easier to search for a word..  get it here : https://www.dropbox.com/s/3yfr1qcihir7aso/nissan-pathfinder-2001-full-fsm.pdf?dl=0

     

    Now, I did not find any way to diagnose the NVIS without the consult-II device (nissan oem)... So depending on the results of the diagnostic of this system, you would know if it is related to the NVIS itself or a lack of communication with the ECM...  I guess you could confirm with the wiring diagram that the nvis is talking or not with the ecm..

     

    The pages that are in interest for you starts at EL-352.  and also you can do a few electric tests for it starting at EL-361... One of the symptoms of it being bad is a : @No start@...

     

    I will try to see if I can find something on testing the nvis without having the consult-ii... maybe someone (like a nissan mechanic) can chime in on this...

     

    hang in there...you'll get your baby back on the road soon... ?

     

  5. The only thing I can think would be buzzing near the firewall on the passenger side is the abs module... you can always try to simply disconnect it and see if the buzzing goes away and if the problem gets better or not... At that point it makes no immediate sense, but at least you could advance and/or eliminate things...  after disconnecting, recheck the fuses and give it a go.. also I have seen relays that clicks but do not work properly (opening the gates)... so I would also try swapping the fuel pump relay with another one just in case..

     

    basically it's either no fuel, no sparks or no air... air is usually not the case as it would probably start and jerk a bit but still it would start....

     

    You need to make sure you have spark when your crank...do you have a spark tester ? if not go buy one....... For the fuel, you can also spray ether or propane or even brake cleaner in the throttle body while cranking... if it wants to start, you know the issue is with fuel...

     

    let us know..the more we know the more we'll help !

    Cheers.

    • Like 1
  6. When you changed you iac, did you check inside your ecm if the mosfet was cracked or blackened ?  I would start with this..

     

    Here's a video showing what a blown one looks like and how to repair..

     

    you can also buy this part to replace https://www.amazon.ca/Lysee-STA509A-STA509-SIP-10-demeanor/dp/B07KT3F862/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=STA509A&qid=1563485910&s=electronics&sr=1-1-catcorr   (Presently unavailable but at least you get the part number)

     

    • Like 1
  7. OK... the truck is fixed... Here's my findings and reasoning if it can help others...

     

    So having confirmed that the fuse 56 is only being used for rear window defogger, and that removing the Rear window defogger relay (The first point of connection in the circuit) did not stop the parasitic draw, I decided to isolate the R/W (red with white stripes).

     

    I disconnected the battery then What I did is apply direct battery voltage to the fuse pin (under the fuse while it is removed), and measured the voltage at the relay box side on pin 5 (while the relay is removed). I measured 0.4 volts less than what the voltage that was put in... That confirmed me that I had also the right wire and that it was going directly from the fuse box to the relay box... 

     

    One thing I tried is to measure ohm resistance on the wire but it showed 0 ohm resistance... I'm not sure what to think of that since my 12v was shorting to ground somewhere..maybe someone can explain this result...normal ??

     

    So having the confirmation that the wire was picking up a ground along the way between the fuse box and relay box, I was not very interested of pulling the harness and opening it and doing tests along the way to try to find the break in the wire or whatever was the issue... If it is a rubbing issue and that the harness has been exposed to body ground, I know I will probably have to have a more thorough look in the future as I expect new parasitic draw to come my way, but I am taking a chance...

     

    So basically, I dismantled the fuse and relay box, cut the R/W wire and spliced a new 14g wire going on the firewall side. The problem is now gone and the draw is now about 13ma...  Big change from .335ma at the beginning.

     

    I learned quite a bit about electrical troubleshooting in this one...

     

    harness-fix-L.jpg

    111-L.jpg

    222-L.jpg

    333-L.jpg

     

    Cheers .

    Steve.

  8. One more thing...  There was an old and problematic remote starter installed before I bought the truck... It was always acting weird and last night I decided to remove and clean everything... I'm thinking that maybe the rear defogger circuit was piggy back on for the remote starter... Would it make sens ?  I never installed a remote starter, so I do not know, but it would seem logical for it to attach to it....

     

    If you think my approach is wrong, don't hesitate to talk ! LOL..  

     

    One last thing to note, is that when this fuse (56) is off, the current draw is 13ma...so I know once this is figured out, i'll be golden...

  9. Thanks for taking the time to help guys... really appreciated....

     

    Before I continue, this is a 2003 LE with vdc and navi...

     

    I have a couple of hours in on this and you can tell me if I'm doing it wrong...

     

    Here's the summary of the power distribution diagram :

    power-dist-L.jpg

     

    so it seems it is only doing 2 circuits... LOAD and DEF.

     

    Here's the details of the power diag

    power2-XL.jpg

     

    so again, in details , it is EC-LOAD and EL-DEF circuits.

     

    Here's EC-LOAD diagram...

    ec-load-XL.jpg

     

    This shows me, regarding fuse 56, that in conjunction with the EL-DEF diagram, the power is really not being consumed by any other device then the rear defogger circuitry..  

     

    My theory about a mistery ground between the fuse and the relay (not the battery and the fuse like previously stated) is based on the fact that when disconnecting the D305 Ground (the ground for the defogger), nothing changes in the current draw.

     

    So my nect step this morning is to trace the wire from the fuse box to the relay box.. I'm thinking it's picking up a ground along the way... I will also confirm that the pin 5 (wire B/Y) on the other side of the relay has no power when the relay is removed... This will confirm me that the issue is not within the relay box itself...

     

     

     

  10. Hi everyone... I am presently troubleshooting a parasitic draw issue that manifested itself this morning because outside temp went to -21c... I am searching for 0.3A draw and I have found it coming from fuse 56. This is one of the 3 fuses responsible for the rear defogger....  The problem I have is with the logic of what I am finding while troubleshoothing this...

     

    Here's what I am doing and what the results are.

     

    1) Remove the fuse = the draw goes away

    2) with the fuse back, if I remove the Rear window defogger relay #E117 = The draw is STILL there !

     

    Is it safe to think that somehow between the battery and the fuse, this R/W wire is finding a ground ? 

    Am i wrong to think this ?

     

    How would you go about this ?

     

    I'm looking for any advice from anyone who has troubleshoot an electrical issue.

     

    Thanks again.

    Steve.

    el-def-XL.jpg

  11. On 10/25/2019 at 12:20 PM, RainGoat said:

    Steve, I’ve got your link & aluminum mid skid. They fit well & do the job nicely. I particularly like that they are aluminum and, consequently, maintenance free. It would be nice, however, if there were horseshoe bolt protectors welded in front of the bolt slots like on my RCI skids for the 4Runner. Another nice touch is to overlap from the front to back so there aren’t any edges to catch if you’re sliding along the skids (you can see that in the photo below as well). Your skids do this from the front to the link, but the rear plate has a forward facing edge. Finally, turning up the sides increases the skids rigidity.

     

     

    I would buy your rear skid if the shipping weren’t so unreasonably high. It’s like AC, it’s tough to stomach shipping that’s a significant percentage of cost of the item. In AC’s case, it’s clear shipping is just another profit center - is yours just the result of size, weight & import duties?a545d6c47816edbbac600f8a4066b204.jpg

     

     

     

    Having recessed bolts and extra bends is all extras that add to the cost and at first I was selling my skids with oil filter and oil pan drain plug access and I had countersunk Stainless steel bolts...  Sadly at the end, I was not selling alot of them because most people did not want to pay extra for these...  So I am selling the most basic set at the best cost I can while making some $$... The shipping has to be compared properly... When you cross countries, it's a totally different ballgame... Also I ship my stuff with tracking and insurance. It barely takes 4-8 business days anywhere to usa... I could ship it with no tracking, but time has showed me that everybody loses at the end when the item does not get to the buyer or it does get there but with damages that I have to absorb....  move to canada...shipping is cheaper lol !

    • Like 1

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