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MY1PATH

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Everything posted by MY1PATH

  1. wd21 pathys came stock with 4.36 gears, if nissan had put a 200 hp motor in em they would have been higly formidable stock vehicle! calmini makes a Panhard bar relocator bracet, it usually comes in their 3" supension kit which comes with everything you need to lift your pathy(T-bars, UCA's, Coils, Upper ball joints, shocks, brake line extentions...) you guessed it about the CL and it needs to be upgraded to keep you form wearing out your TieRodEnds, pitman and idler arms. there's a few opions out there but I'd reccomend the HooHaa CL beacuse it is the most affordable but also just as durable as any of the other high dollar CL setups out there. Their site grassroots4x4 Is down right now but look into it next month they sould be up and running again.
  2. 2.5" will give you better top end at the cost of some of your low end torque. You may also notice some backfiring due to lack of back preassure. Borla also makes a 2.5" catback system the sounds great and will not corrode easily I think its like 300usd. I spent 350usd on Doug Thorley headers; they come nickel coated to prevent corrosion and help disapate heat. Thier 2.25" outlet matched with my 2.25 cat and muffler form magnaflow made for a freeflow system with minimal backfire when engine braking. I wound up making the last bend in my exhaust out of 2" just to hold on to a little more of that low end torque. most exhaust shops should have aluminzed tubing which lasts allot longer than stock pipes but weigh less and cost less than stainless exhaust. hope this helps.
  3. All I gotta say is don't get cocky I seen big lifted rigs get stuck on the way to the mountain cause they thought 4x4 and big tires would be their savior. I bet they feel stupid when the lilguys w/ their frnt wheel drive civcs and cable chains takin it slow and picking their lines closer to road center don't get suck.
  4. the WD21 IFS setup at stock height offers supior road handing (opion) for what came to be known as part of the first the SUV's. If you like faster paced windy trails with some small (er) rocks ditches and a little mud a Beefed up IFS should do you fine; HoHaa CL is always a good idea, Calmini and 4x4 parts sell upper "a" arms that correct the alignment problems of at Torsion bar lift and even full kits to beef up susp. I wouldn't Push IFS any farther thatn 3" susp lift. You could prolly go rougher than that On wd21 IFS (Ive had mine 6ft up in a jump, I like jumping lol) but stuff will prolly wear out faster (damn jumping) and High centering (ground clearance) can be an issue as the obstacles you choose become bigger. 4"+ go SAS, alignment issuses (if properly intsalled) are, from my uderstanding, next to none. your biggest High center concern is your axles and bigger tires can help that and hey you have rooom for them too! Go crazy. Go jump. Go mud. Go rock crawl. Go slow on sharp turns. Go. Go.. Go... Ok, thats really all I know about SAS Hope this helps
  5. I know you said quit the gab but I thought some ppl might want to see My post on how they fit. I think its well worth it! MY1PATH Header post on N4W (don't reply to my reply, just add your name to the list)
  6. Oh common now! the 58" is $149! Beggars cant be choosers! I measured and Ideal on my '89 would be arroud 63". so the 58" is only 5" or 6" short. line it up right and nobody would really care if they did notice and if its centered that leaves you 3" shor t on each end. And how many rocks are we gonna fall on are gonna find that 3" too large gap between the wheel and the rail? And after they find that gap how many of them are still tall enough to do any unsightly damage? does anyone else see it this way?
  7. I was there when I did my headers! "PB Blaster" tap it with a hammer (or someting attached to it if the hammer won't fit) several times. move to the next bolt by the time you did this to 6 bolts your first one should be loose. If your re-using the pipes buy new bolts or the heads might snap of one day driving and leave you with and exhaust leak. I also reccomend buying a tap and chasing the treads in the flanges to prevent internal rusting of your new bolts. give all your hardware 3 heavy coats of high temp paint AFTER you got it all back together and next time it might be easier.
  8. If the cat has a long pipe sticing out of it with a hole for the o2 sensor look closer the bolts for that pipe may be hidden by the heat sheild and bam you have a mid pipe and a cat. if not then the mid pipe is still on the truck.
  9. The DTE-464-2 will fit all vg30 pathfinders 87-95 auto and manual (reguardless what the notes say) and I belive It also fits all d21 hardbodies w/ vg30 as the engine/enginebay/ tranny layout(main obstacles) are basically the same. Depending on how your engine sits (.25" left or right) on its mounts you may have to dent one of the pimaries (about .125" to clear your steering shaft)
  10. I got mine 2 months ago @ AutoAnything for like 350. Shipping is free and I'm very happy with them. I run a 2.25 cat and muffler form magnaflow with it and my MPG has gone up a bit; 20mpg highway!
  11. Parts America offers a few. Go with the Moog 4x4 if your looking for stronger or ABC Nissan Wholesale has OEM ones for less.
  12. I get 20 MPG highway and about 15-16 mpg street in my Pathy. It used to never get above 17 hwy and 14-15 street untill I put a K&N filter(no special intake just the filter) and thorley headers w/ magnaflow 2.25'' hiflow cat and magnaflow 2.25" mufler I wouldn't open the exhaust much more than 2.25 on a stock VG30. Stick w/ NGK plugs to, thats what came in it OEM and I've tried others and see a decrease in MPG (no noticeabe power difeance tho) And thats with 1" torsion bar lift and 31x10.50 tires With a rebuild + intake & full exhaust only you might see your 18 mpg on the hwy but you'll lose it adding the weight of a SAS or 35's. Gears effect your mpg too; gear too low and these low rpm motors may get worse mpg on the freeway than on the street and street may be bad too.
  13. I found this link; Matt's Custom Rock Sliders $189 Yeh the price is awesome! The top of the page has our NPORA tag on it but I tried the email and got no response. "Matt Albertson of Onalaska, WA is the person to see" This is like an hour south of where I live so If anybody knows how I could get a hold of this guy I would be very greatfull!!!
  14. your right crazyhayseed its before the cat. so removing the cat shouldnt effect it. correct me if I'm wrong but I thought these engines mixed fuel based only on the MAF feedback until 2800 rpm and then mix based only on O2 sensor feedback above 2800 rpm. I do know that opening your exhaust too much can also cause problems, I played arround with a few configurations after putting on my headers; Open header took away almost all my power uness I ran it near redline and it had it had an lopey Idle sound like an agressively cammed v8 Open cat (2.25 inch cat) gave me power in the high rpm range but no low end compared to stock and still a wavy idle I put a mufler on the end of that to quiet it a litte (2.5 magnaflow, flows like a cherry bomb but differant sound) and my Idle steadied out and my low end torqe came back. I talked to some guys who dyno tune exhaust systems and for lower end power and a flatter torqe band(good thing for 4x4) you don't want to open it up too much and you want a few feet of pipe after your Y pipe for the gasses to travel thru before comming out of the vehicle. In shorter words a 2" 2.25" glass pack for a cat should work, plenty of people do it.
  15. If I had my way I would have a EFI converted 383 stroker (bored out 350 w/ a crank from a larger engine) I guess anny small V8 stroker would do but that my favorite. Stroker motors are TORQUEy SOB's producing really low end torqe and lots of power even @ idle. I know it will fit cause I've seen on one of the nissan forums out there wd21 and d21 nissans with 350's in em.
  16. Yeh, Here is my #1 thought; Never Ever get work done @ a dealership! Unless there is absolutely no other option (or its a recall w/ free maintance like nissan did once w/ seatbelts) Find a regular autoshop maybe even one that specializes in your veilce (but is not a dealership) and you will find people who (85% of the time) work harder for your $$$ and prices are much lower. Lemie give you an example; I encountered 3 broken studs when installing my headers. after breaking an easy out inside one I decided to take it somewhere. For @!*%s and gigles I asked a dearship Nissan quoted me $2300 for "16hrs of labor" unless head bolts broke in the process... I hung up! I called a few other places who gave various $amounts most said no more than $1200 if they took the heads off and drilled from the back. the shop I went with charged me $870 out the door and that included installing my new Thorley Headders for me. They had broken one of my emissons lines in the process and replaced it with no extra charge cause "they broke it" and they aloso spent $80 on a thread tap for that emmisons line which they also didn't charge me for because it was going to be their tool. Buddy I paid less than 1/2 the dealer amount. And that nissan quote; well that comes out to about $143 per hour. Do you know anyone that makes that much? The truth is dealers make so much money of cars and overpriced maintenace/parts (form rich ppl and ppl who have not yet been educated) that they don't care about covering your ass when they make a mistake. Now in a non dealer shop I saw a mechanic break somones break caper bolt and they refuesed to give the guy his car untill they got it out and then refused again untill they could get him a whole new caliper mount (cause they fskced up the threads drilling it out) and there was no charge involved; only the inconvenionce of not having a car for 2 more days. The cousomer thought he was wronged because he did not know what a caliper was and how it effected his safety to drive it like that but I know they did the right thing for the coustomer.
  17. I don't get 6ft every time I joyride but thats the highest anybody has seen me get so far. I will vouch the 15x7 American racing oulaw II w/ 31x10.5 uniroyal combo I have now have seen allot of abuse with no signs of fatigue. these newer 15x8.5's I'm looking @ just don't look as strong But I will be running like 32" maybe 33" on them in the long run. Thanks for the re-assurance.
  18. Do you remember what brand they were so I might pick up a matching spare? I know they are not American Racing even tho the style is similar to their Outlaw II wheel. anyone else agree its ok for me to wail on these? or drop the tuck from 6ft onto them? I'm still sketchy
  19. I'm gonna pick up some new wheels this weekend, found a good deal on craigs list but will they be strong enough? in the picture they look pretty thin near the holes and the back looks extruded instead of soid like my stock rims. I plan to ofroad them a little and I get kinda reckless as in trying to get airtime with my pathfinder (no jump pics yet, need to get a camera) what do you guys think?
  20. I'm new to this, don't laugh, how did the mud cause a seal to fail. did the mud to the damage to the engine or the burden of a forced dead stop cause stuff to go bad in the engine?
  21. Did you check your window motors? they could be worn out. check ebay for repacement motors w/ tracks. they cost less than the dealer price and are usually built with pulleys instead of glides which makes them more durable over time. If your glides broke the motor may be tangled up with all the loose cable. check the wireing to the swtitches. I know that if you unplug the passenger switch the driverside over ride cannot move it either.
  22. ouch. Yeah, I stand by my frame on body claim.
  23. For 1st gen pathfinders I'd say jumping is fun and not too destructive. I've had my patfinder in the air many times, sorry no pictures; maybe oneday I'll get a friend w/ a camera, with little to no ill effects. I've gone off of quad jumps, and one day jumping up slopped housing foundations (I know I shouldn't tear up the town) my friends said I got about 6ft off the ground. Since WD21 has got a rugged overbuilt ladderbody frame with fully boxed rails I encourage jumping @ your own risk. (and post your pics its fun to see!)
  24. if you remove your factory amp,(and take it apart) there will be marks on the circut board for all 4 speakers right where one of the harneses plugs in. use this as your guide and picup all your speaker wires form this harness. tape off the unuesd power wires for the amp and discard the amp and original wires that went form you amp to your factory stereo. your aftermarket "head" (i guess your talking about the deck) should have enough power to power all for speakers w/o the factory amp. with the amp removed you will have more room for your wiring and less wires to confuse you. this is exactly how I installed my kenwood.
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