Terrano1992
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Posts posted by Terrano1992
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Terrano WD21 2.7 turbo diesel automatic.
When I first turn the ignition on I get the 2 second light and then 16 short blinks.
16 short blinks are A/T fault indication, like a "Check Engine" lamp.
Try to run A/T self-diagnostic procedure. AFAIK, you can start it with next step by step sequence:
1) Start engine, warm to normal temperature.
2) Set ignition key to "OFF".
3) Set A/T Mode switch (Power/Auto/Hold) to "Auto" (middle position).
4) Set O/D switch to "ON".
5) Move A/T selector to "P".
6) Set ignition key to "ACC" (A/T mode switch lamp will lit for 2 second).
7) Move A/T selector to "D".
8) Set ignition key to "ON" (do not start engine!).
9) Set O/D switch to "OFF".
10) Set ignition key to "OFF".
11) Set ignition key to "ON" (do not start engine!). Wait for 2-4 seconds.
12) Move A/T selector to "2".
13) Set O/D switch to "ON".
14) Move A/T selector to "1".
15) Set O/D switch to "OFF".
16) Depress accelerator pedal to floor, then release it.
17) Look at A/T mode switch lamp. It should start blinking. First one long blink (opening sequence), then 10 short blinks (if all systems are OK). Faulty system will be shown with long blink in 10-blink sequence.
Fault code list (blink number - fault location):
1 - VSS transmission circuit open or shorted
2 - VSS speedometer circuit open or shorted
3 - TPS open or shorted
4 - Shift Solenoid A circuit open or shorted
5 - Shift Solenoid B circuit open or shorted
6 - 3-2 Solenoid or Overrun Solenoid circuit open or shorted
7 - LU solenoid circuit open or shorted
8 - ATF temperature circuit open or shorted
9 - Engine RPM circuit open or shorted
10 - Line Pressure Solenoid open or shorted
For example, if you see 2nd and 9th blinks are longer then other, you have VSS speedometer sensor circuit and engine RPM sensor circuit malfunctions.
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I'll do it this coming week.
Remember to release fuel pressure and open fuel tank cap first, to prevent fuel spraying and spilling around all engine bay...
Partially plugged fuel filters can play hell with running the engine.Sure, but significant power loss at full throttle is a first and main symptom of clogged fuel filter. Filter replacement will not hurt anyway, but i doubt that the filter is a root of your cold start problems.
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sure it wasn't 94+ when nissan switched to the rounded tooth cam gears?
94+ model year, to be exact. Production date before 06/1993 - square tooth, after 06/1993 - round.
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So....the Tachometer signal comes from the Computer....
Do you know which wire feeds the coil signal to the computer - i.e. the pin number of the computer?
Coil signal schematic diagram is shown at page EF&EC-90 ("Engine Fuel and Emission Control System", EC.pdf). Trace circuit from ECU pin 3.
But if you have problem in this circuit, you should get a diagnostic trouble code 21 ("Ignition signal") from ECU. If not - probably, coil "feedback" circuit is fine.
Me think, tacho signal generation inside ECU based on signal from CMPS (Camshaft Position Sensor). This is more precisely and robust way. At the same time, ignition signal monitored by ECU to detect misfire and prevent cat damage (unburned fuel into cat).
x2 to adamzan - tach itself is the culprit in most cases on 94-95 Pathfinders (with "round" dashboard).
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Now....which wire goes to the Coil - Number 33 (White) or Number 42 (Blue) ?
None of above. Pin 42 (connector "33I") is externally connected to pin 21 ("14I"), and both connected to the ground. Ground circuit: pin 42, black wire, SMJ pin L15, black wire, joint connector "C" (212M), black wire, body ground points 232M and 202M.
"Ignition signal" from coil goes to ECU (pin 3). ECU, in turn, sends processed signal to tachometer (from ECU pin 2 to tachometer pin 33). There are no direct connection between coil and tach.
Goes thru the SMJ - SUPER MULTIPLE JUNCTION....on the foldout pdf file....CONFUSED.
SMJ is a large connector behind the fuse block (white square, with bolt in center). It connects instrument harness with main harness.
How does the SMJ diagram work ? What do the numbers on the bottom black line refer to ?
Look at "SMJ box" on the top of this diagram (marked as "VG"), not a bottom ("KA"). This diagram shows all wiring versions, both for VG30E- and KA24E-equipped vehicles (also trucks and wagons, auto/manual transmissions). You need to select appropriate fragment using corresponding symbols (VG, KA, F, R, T, W).
Symbols "33I", "267M", "212M" shows connector location on the body (or engine) harness. Look at "Harness layout" (EL-79..EL-94), you can find them here.
Don't blame Nissan - their diagrams are relatively easy to read and understand. If you doubt, you can try to read Peugeot diagrams (and really screw your brain...
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Does anyone have one or know where I can find the WIRING DIAGRAM for the
'95 XE-V6 TACHOMETER ?
For example, download EL part of 1994 FSM here. Look at page EL-38 and EL-39 ("Meter and Gauges - Wiring Diagram").
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unhook the line at the pump and at the nozzle in back and try to blow back through to the reservoir with a compressed air source.
My 2 cents...
This line has a small one-way check valve (buried inside rear door, near the nozzle). This thing can be clogged too. Also, it's impossible to blow hose in reverse direction thru this valve.
To DoctorBill: remove rear door trim above the window (simply pull it out, there are clips inside - can't remember, plastic or steel type) to access all these things. Trace hose back from nozzle and you'll see a small plastic thing (one-way valve).
I doubt you can pull a new tube without removing some parts of interior trim (roof and front/back window pillars).
Check pump motor first. I had an issue with pump intake clogged by dirt (motor whirrs, but don't pumps a liquid).
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do our pathfinders(90-95) have a "intake air temperature(IAT) sensor"? or is that combined with the mass air flow(MAF) sensor?
None of above. VG30E (90..95 Pathfinders) knows nothing about intake air temperature.
At the same time, VG33E (96-04 Pathfinder) has MAP and IAT sensors, not only MAF.
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Yep just looked it up and its says,89 models get API GL4 75w-90 and 90-95 get Dexron ATF...So if your getting some heavy oil in your transfer case I can see a rebuild in your futher...
You can use Dexron or 75W-90 GL-4 (75W-90 GL-5 is suitable also) for any transfer case, 87 to 95 year. However, Dexron is recommended for cold regions.
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Yes, that is correct. The part number for Nissan is: 999MP-1XGPP0P for GL4 of GL5. It is onr of the few things where the formula changed but the part number did not.
Maybe, this is one of modern synthetic "universal GL-4/5" fluids? "Mobilube SHC" (Exxon/Mobil), for example?
By the way, excellent 75W-90 gear oil...
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I am hoping the $300-$700 is becuase the labor rate is high.
Me think the only problem can be drill out two self-shear screw heads to remove old lock cylinder from steering column (10 minutes of working with center punch and cordless drill). All remaining work looks like a child play...
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thanks for the ATF tip
I can explain more, this is not a misterious thing.
Thick (high viscosity) gear oil causes slow irregular rotation of front propeller shaft when "2H" selected in transfer case (thick liquid acts as a viscous clutch). As a result, you can hear repeated clicks or whirring at front axle, produced by spontaneously engaged (and immediately disengaged, because you have no real torque on driveshaft) automatic hubs, until transfer case oil warms to working temperature.
Dexron-III or higher spec ATF really helps to cure this problem. At least, up to -25..-30 deg.C.
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it started a little last winter, but only in reverse only on the outer wheel when turning. now its forward and reverse, outer wheel only when the wheels are past half way to max turn. could that be an Auto-Hub thing?
Yes. Check your "A/B brake" pair height, as described in FSM. Replace if they are worn.
Also, fill transfer case with Dexron-III or any other equivalent ATF, not a gear oil. Dexron has a less cold viscosity than 75W-90 GL-4/5. It's a Nissan recommended thing.
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I'm assuming the 94/95 ECU will be the only two compatible years.
x2. Oxygen sensors used on 94-95 and 90-93 are completely incompatible. Titanium sensor ("thin", M12 thread) was used on 90-93 and zirconium ("fat", M18 thread) on 94-95. They have totally different voltage output. As a result, 94-95 ECU has different HO2S input circuit, incompatible with early version.
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Has anybody figured out the frozen clutch problem?
How old is brake fluid in your clutch? Try to replace it wit a fresh DOT-3 or DOT-4 fluid and flush (bleed) all system.
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IIRC the black round thing is a sensor for I think the auto in cabin temp control.
x2. This thihg is "sunload sensor". Used to change automatic A/C operating mode when cabin is exposed to direct sunlight.
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so would this be y my passenger side window goes up very slowly? and even more slower on cold days?
Yes, it can be one of possible causes. Worn electric motor and faulty wiring/corroded connectors are other common problems.
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Is this R50 or DRL module specific?
Cracked solder joints are common failure for any automotive electronic modules exposed to vibration impacts. Not only DRL - power window amplifier, power door lock timer, etc... If you see heavy component (relay, connector) with solid pins soldered directly to printed circuit board - these solder joints are prone to cracking.
So, open a module and resolder all suspected joints (even if they look good) as a last hope before throw it away and replace with a new...
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Inter-axle differentials are better for AWD street vehicles because on the trail they can turn you into a 1-wheel-drive.
Can't agree. I know at least 2 good AWD offroad vehicles - Lada Niva and Mitsubishi Pajero (with "SuperSelect" transmission, not "EasySelect"). Both have manually engaged central diff lock, of course.
Last Nissans (JDM R50 Terrano Regulus, 2005 Pathfinder, Armada) uses hydraulic clutch (with electronic control) instead of inter-axle differential. Clutch can be fully disengaged ("2H" mode), partially engaged ("Auto" mode, limited slip allowed, so clutch acts like inter-axle diff) and fully engaged ("4WD Lock" mode).
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I was thinking is there an upgrade for the front axle???
Something that will allow me to make better turns in 4WD without fear of binding.
You need a completely different transfer case (with inter-axle differential), not a front axle. Any transmission without center differential (or automatic center clutch, like 2005 Pathfinder ATX14A transfer case) will "bind" on 4High/4Low when you make a sharp turn on a road with a high-traction surface.
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I have to work outside - Garage full of crap !
I doubt you can remove helical lock ring from hub without vice or helper (unless you have 3 hands
). You need two hands to operate with two flat screwdrivers and third hand to hold hub at the same time...Should I jack the Front End up off the ground to do this? I.E. - Remove the wheel ?
No. You can unscrew bolts without wheel removal? It means you can remove hub also.
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I think the leak is coming from the oil pump area.
Front main seal?
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4-banger (Z24i/KA24E), diesel (TD27/TD27T) and V6 (VG30i/VG30E/VG33E) bellhousings are completely different.
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it will rev past 5k rpm when cold with little to no problem but when it starts to warm up is when it starts misfiring cutting out etc. It has never died but I don't trust it not to. Causes of Limp Mode??
Most common causes are coolant temp sensor or low fuel pressure. Maybe both at one time.
Somebody speak russian?
in Russia
Posted
Hi, Booster, greetings from T-Rex!
Sure, I can speak Russian too.