tmoore4512

That is a good question. I was wondering the same thing...and it hasn't been a really clear issue... CV axle angle, and steering geometry...

Yendor, how did they turn out? It has been a month or so since your post, have you gotten your lift finished? Give us some info brother, fill us in with the cheese whiz!!

ahardbody, I think we have all been there brother...life goes on...and someone else is enjoying the fruit of your labor...

Mine is a beige, or light brown, goldish color...not too bad, as it can go a while without being washed...(although I prefer it clean...)

Daver123 PM sent if you still have the calminis...

Interesting...I have done rear mains with the tranny out and engine in, but not on a pathfinder, or a Nissan for that matter. I would feel more comfortable pulling the motor and running through it anyways. Chiltons makes reference to dropping front suspension components as well, wonder why, especially if you dont have to.

Athough that should not change anything...by much. Power options? Does it have all the bells and whistles of that time?

Just went outside and looked, mine does not have it...then saw that your truck is a 93. My bad.

Man, I need to do this too. I am leaking so much dang oil it is ridiculous. Its almost like all the lower seals and gaskets are non existent. Frustrating as it is my daily driver. I have pulled and built and put back in many a motor, but not on a 4wd pathfinder...I know there is a ton of wiring and tubing and other junk hooked up, almost like a brand new car... Oh well, one of these days I just need to do it...maybe rebuild the whole thing while I am at it...anyone wanna help? I will supply whatever you drink...hahahaha

Those tires are nice. I ran them on a SAS'd S10 a few years back. They lasted a long time, until a sharp rock ate a sidewall...the other three may still be in the shed...lol What kind of lift do you have on your 1991? I know it will be somewhat different than on my 1995 but it looks high as crap.

Not 100% sure what the pattern on the titan wheels was, but they were not factory so I cant advise. That summit racing price is wicked cool. Gunna have to wait till Friday....

Kiwi that is just down right wrong man...rubbin it in. Hahaha, but yea, seriously that is what I am looking for. Precise, its the guys at Gateway Tire, (doesnt matter what store). These guys swore up and down yesterday that my LEGO's were 8 inches wide because a 31x10.50 WOULD NOT fit on a 7 inch wide wheel...LMAO. Anyway, thanks for that link, I am going to place an order shortly...(freakin cheapest place I have seen!!) The guys above wanted 78 and change for a single wheel. I have tried several different patterns: Toyota tundra wheels (2005) fit nicely GMC (2007) Sierra wheels fit the rear but not the front, (thats where the machining comes in.) 2006 Xterra tried 2 different sets, oddly ONE set fit, (My buddies wife has a 2006 built in the 5th month, and a friend of his has a 06 built in the 9th month.) The earlier wheels fit, but the later did not...smaller bolt pattern. (2009) Titan wheels, tried one set, nope. Different pattern as well. (These were ugly 20 inch chromes, maybe that was the reason. haha) My buddy has a used car lot...with a ton of different trucks, and different wheels...any suggestions to try? Maybe that will help someone...

Learn something new everyday. The tire "pro" told me they were 3.75 backspaced, and 8 inch wide. (Talking about the LEGO's.) I am planning on sticking with the 31x10.50's, and prefer not to have rub. Interesting...

Okay guys, so I have spent several days searching the site for information, and have come up with bits and pieces. Decided to start a thread specifically designed and orientated to the topic on hand. Pathfinder wheel fitment, and the factory specifications etc. I have been looking around for a set of black steel wheels to replace my LEGO's but have come up empty handed everywhere I go. Even the wheel and tire "experts" tell me I am SOL when I tell them its for a pathfinder. Rumor has it, and some of the info I scratched up was that Chevrolet/GMC wheels will fit, and have similar backspacing, however the centers need to be machined out. Also been told that Toyota wheels will bolt up and are similar, but again, the wheel shop guys do not have a listing for black steelies. So the factory Pathfinder wheel is a 15x8 6x5.5 lug, 3.75 backspaced wheel, correct? (1995 XE 4X4) Any insight on where to get a good deal on (5) five matching black steel wheels, or even a set of used ones...or a different vic that has the same pattern etc would be helpful.

The instrument cluster in my 95XE has been going crazy since the day I bought it. Tach is all over the place, and sometimes the other gauges just plain dont work. The fuse popped once or twice, and I extracted the cluster to find some nasty green corrosion looking junk on 90% of the connectors. I cleaned that silly thing and it didnt fix the tach, but it did fix the fuse blowing/other gauges intermittently working problem. the buildup more than likely raised the resistance to a point that the draw was just too great, and thus the fuse would go. If I could find another cluster with the tach I would replace it in an instant. Anyways, I would pull it and check...may be part of your problem. Originally I am from the west coast. Born in Seattle, WA. Lived all over WA and some in CA. Did alot of really cool wheelin trips up into Canada and over to Palin country, onto some logging roads. Talk about wicked. At the time I had several different trucks, (was single, worked for a software company out of my apartment and had very little bills) an 89 XJ with 79 F150 axles...went pretty good on the trails. Only problem I had was tires coming off rim...was fixed by a set of beadlock wheels...anyway, thats another life...I dont wheel my pathy...just drive it back and forth to work, and thats about it. I ended up in TN on a roadtrip to FL. Met my wife at church and well...end of story. I live in a small town called Shelbyville. It is the "Wlaking Horse Capitol of the World" whatever the crap that means...except once a year a crap load of people come and watch horses walk around a ring. Whatever floats it...

Pathy, on our older trucks "wire cancer" is always an issue. What I mean by that is the wire/connections may look good but in fact there is corrosion that is inside the shielding and intertwined with the copper conductors. I discovered several of my grounds had the same issue, and when they were replaced my issues went away. Now I am not running a winch, or massive off road lights. I do have 12 strobes, a 200 watt siren system, as well as several LED packs on top of the factory XE power windows and locks and fog lights. You may just shave a small portion of the wire back and make sure there is not a green residue or buildup. I know it sounds finicky but it is a very real issue. As far as checking relays, you can do it two ways: First apply 12 volts to the coil of it, and while doing so have a multimeter connected to the LOAD side's of it. And, visually check it. The covers of most relays easily come off. Take a look at the electrical components and see if you can find some evidence of it being hot, or burned up/out. Sorry about the guy at AZ. He should be reprimanded. AZ's policy is to return or swap out no matter what as long as the item checks bad.

Interesting that the cat at AZ gave you a hard time. I work in the local AZ part time and we swap out warranty parts all the time...you may consider speaking with his manager. Nonetheless the situation with at least AZ's alternators is this: Valuecraft (1 yr warranty)-when an alternator is sent back as a core, it is tested and they find out what part is bad. The bad part is replaced the case cleaned and painted and it is boxed and resold. Thats it. Duralast (Lifetime warranty)-Same as above, however ALL electrical parts (with the exception of the main coil) are replaced, including bearings. Duralast GOLD (Lifetime warranty)-Brand new alternator...costs more but it is new. Like 88 said, test that battery. It seriously sounds like youve got some major issues electrically speaking. I would check all the relays and make sure that none of them are stuck, check to make sure no fuses are "fused" together, sometimes that happens during a high current blow...seen it a few times. As silly as it sounds check your headlights. I have seen several vehicles with similar problems that had the WRONG headlamps installed...or upgraded bulbs that draw more current...too much demand on the alternator... But above all, check your GROUNDS. Make sure they are tight, and clean. Good luck

Nevermind guys, took care of it...

Where did you guys get your 80 amp relay? What application?

I just scored on eof these 3.8 Taurus fans, however I am on shift all this weekend and wont be able to get to it until sometime next week. Just curious.... (and this goes out to the ones who have already done this mod) How did you guys mount your fan? I have a traditional AutoZone E fan installed as of now with its own through the radiator kit. I am planning on fabbing up a mount of some sort, just wanted to see how some of you vets have done it.

Had a similar issue... Bought my path from a car lot that had it traded in by a hispanic fellow...of whom I have met. He is a relatively decent mechanic, and does good work. Now my truck had been running just down right rough, terrible MPG's (9 to be exact) and would hardly stay running while at red lights etc.... So I slowly begin to gather the parts for a tune up of sorts...(plugs, wires, cap, rotor etc) So I go to pull the plugs...1 breaks off...OUCH....2 have the washer issues....and the rest look like someone superheated them with a torch. Used the easy out method...until it stopped working...then pulled the head. GAH. Anyway...long story short...this isnt the first time ive seen a set of BOSCH plugs become a huge problem... NGK all the way in any Nissan...

SCHAEFFERS!!!! Best oil ive ever used... http://www.schaefferoil.com/ Infused with moly...makes it run coller and lasts longer... They will test your oil after each oil change and give you a metal analysis (give you a little container designed to mail a sample of your oil back to them)....it has been dropping EVERY oil change... Did I mention the test service is free if you buy from them? The guys there are freakin cool. Gear heads just like...well most of us. Check em out.