Kr50
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Posts posted by Kr50
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On 1/6/2021 at 2:42 PM, jyeager said:
It's always on a hot restart?
Vapor lock? (perhaps involving the charcoal canister)
Yes. On cold start it starts up everytime. Do you know if theres a way to check if charcoal canister is functioning properly? I have a check engine light on for upstream 02 sensor thats all.
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I have cleaned the throttle body and replaced the fuel filter. Went to get gas and had a hard time starting again. The idle just dies and pressing the gas to raise the idle has no effect. Opened the hood checked battery terminals and seemed solid. Closed the hood and it started right up? Im really confused on whats going on.
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Did you ever fix it? Im having the same issues. Took it apart first time reconnected wires and it worked for 2 days. Again took everything apart and took off bulbs and cleaned contacts. Worked fine for just few hours. Now its back to square one with no lighting on rpm and temp gauge side.
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Have a intermittent no start issue on my 2002 pathfinder. I went to start it up after stopping the car for 5 mins and engine wouldnt hold the idle and dies within 3 seconds.i checked the battery connections and everything seems fine.i had the phone plugged in for the 5 mins. I turned off all accessories and started right up after. Battery is brand new.
I took the guage cluster off today to fix a intermittent bulb not lighting up issue which seems to work but the moment it wouldnt start the repaired side went out. Not sure if its related.has anyone had a issue like this?
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Holy crap thats a good looking Pathfinder. Good job!
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7 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:
I suspect either the replacement radio is bad or the factory amplifier is probably the problem. Wouldn't hurt to check that the speakers aren't bad also. The front and rear should be the same, can switch them and see what happens but my bets are on the amp or head unit.
The radio seems to work fine but it could be that front channels are bad i guess. I will check the amp to see if theres any issues with that. First ill try to see if im getting power to the speakers. Do you happen to know if the rear cargo are blue relays ( next to amp) are related to the radio?
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Oh thats good to hear. Changing the filter isnt the most fun project on this. Specially the 3 screws under cooler line. Im more than happy to change it every 15k. Specially when valvoline maxlife is so cheap.
thanks for the tip on dipstick trick. I will try it tomorow on a cold level.
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So i had a battery drain issue that linked to the radio ( which never turned on). I replaced it with the same bose unit i found at a junkyard. After connecting only the rear speakers work. Front door speakers and tweeters have no power.
i did some digging and and ended up at the rear drivers side cargo area panel. Ive seen online that theres 2 blue relays and mine only has one. The connector is just hanging on the other. Are these related to the radio by any chance?
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Thats true. Im actually planning on doing that next weekend. Worst part is reaching the 3 bolts thats covered by the cooler line near the pan. But needs to be done anyway. In also having a hard time reading the fluid level on this dipstick.
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Finally got around to changing the tranny fluid and diff fluid. Tranny fluid wasnt too bad and it went pretty smooth except for forgetting to put the magnet back on
. Still having a hard time getting the fluid level read properly. Diff fluid came out nasty. Went with royal purple and noticed a night and day difference. Most likely because the old fluid was pretty bad. Car rides super smooth now. Planning to change the transmission fluid in about 5k miles which i will put the magnet back on.
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4 hours ago, colinnwn said:
In general driving without a magnetic drain plug for several weeks to several months is fine, as long as the replacement plug isn't leaking. Most older automatic transmissions didn't have magnets at all. My Scout had no magnet and no drain plug. You had to drop the pan. I added a plug into the pan.
In theory it keeps the fluid a little cleaner. It would be interesting to know if some of the newer lifetime fill transmissions with no drain plugs even have magnets in them.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
it was one of those things i totally forgot to replace. which is why i was looking into a magnetic drain plug. looks like its a no go. the magnet wasnt too bad when i cleaned it. so im thinking tranny wasnt dirty to begin with. as for new cars, i replaced transmission fluid on my 2015 Jag xf with lifetime fluid. The plastic pan has 2 magnets inbuilt and the job was alot easier than the pathfinder. would sticking the magnet from outside help in any way at all?
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4 hours ago, DesertKyle said:
If you can't find a magnetic drain bolt I'd just add a Magnafine inline filter by the trans cooler and call it good.
Thanks for the suggestion. looks like its an online part. ill try to get one ordered up. looks like installation isnt too bad. much better than reinstalling the pan.
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i changed the transmission fluid anf filter over the weekend. buttoned everything up and found out i left the Magnet outside
. would it be safe to drive? im looking for a magnetic drain plug but havnt had luck finding one.
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On 11/19/2020 at 2:43 PM, Mr_Reverse said:
Full synthetic fluids.
Front and rear axles use GL-5. With synthetic I find 70-90 works great.
Manual transmission uses GL-4 do NOT use anything that says GL-5 in the transmission, it will destroy synchros and bushings. Once again, 70-90 works well.
Automatic transmission,
Dextron ATF up to Dextron VI, the fluid is backwards compatible.
Transfer case uses the same fluid as transmission. Spec says ATF, but with manual trans GL-4 works as well.
Steering uses ATF.
Brake fluid should be changed if a couple years old. DOT 3 or 4 fluid.
Thanks for the reply. For the transmission i believe valvoline maxlfe and castrol muliti should work. Is there a preference?
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I Just got the Pathfinder started after sitting for 2.5 years. got it working thanks to the helpful peeps on this forum. Now I'm in the process of doing some maintenance. I'm looking for recommendations on transmission and diff fluid for a 2002 Pathfinder with 4X4.
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14 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
Hmm. Sounds like either the computer is right proper borked, or it's got a wiring fault that means the computer isn't getting power. Two computers having the same issue makes me think wiring. Hopefully the dealer can figure it out. If not, I'd unplug the computer, figure out which pins are supposed to be power and ground, and see if one (or more) of them isn't giving the computer what it needs. If you don't mind doing a little digging in the service manual, you should be able to work out where those wires go, where ground points are, and which connectors to check.
Just heard from the Dealer. they found out one of the pins in the ecm were bent, after straightening it and plugging it back in started right up. finally some good news today. will be picking it up after work. thanks alot for all the help. will report back on how everything goes.
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also found out the check engine light doesn't illuminate when turning key to On position. everything else lights up but no check engine light.
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On 11/14/2020 at 7:57 PM, RainGoat said:
The security system can throw a code as well. When I’ve accidentally started it with the key without the chip it gives a code I can read with my generic OBDII readers
wish i could even connect my reader. i get no codes and no connection to the car.
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On 11/14/2020 at 7:33 PM, Slartibartfast said:
My understanding is that the security system on the R50 is built in to the point where you're pretty much stuck working with it, but I've never messed with one. If the no-start started when the computer came back, the problem might be there--either something wasn't repaired right, or the rebuilder sent the wrong one back.
Have you tried checking for codes? I doubt the average scanner would tell you why the security system is pissed, or let you fix it, but I'd be curious to compare what the computer thinks the VIN is to what the dashboard says it is.
It may need to spend some time with someone who's got the right scanner to get into the security system. Or a locksmith might be able to do something with it? I dunno, we're well outside of my experience here.
thats my thought as well and i have sent the car off to the dealership to reprogram or reset the the security system. I could not connect any of my equipment to read codes. i tried it with my neighbor's Autel reader and no luck. it just wouldn't connect. so i swapped the ecu to the used one i got and still no luck. Today the dealership tells me they are trying to read codes but no luck. but they are still working on it. hopefully its not a big issue
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As for the security system, it blinks without key and stays on when ign on. Im thinking its supposed to go off when ign is on. Is there a way to bypass the security system?
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As for the security system, it blinks without key and stays on when ign on. Im thinking its supposed to go off when ign is on. Is there a way to bypass the security system?
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On 11/9/2020 at 3:37 PM, Slartibartfast said:
Looks like the fuel pump itself has white/blue and black wires. Black goes to body ground, white/blue goes through two fuel pump relays for some reason, through a 15a fuse, to the battery. EL-698 of the '02 manual has the wiring diagram. Check for power at the fuse, then at the first relay, then at the second relay, make sure both relays are clicking. If you have power to a relay, but it's not clicking, and the relay itself tests good, check for signal. Looks like Relay 2 is controlled by ignition signal (key on, relay on) and Relay 1 is switched by the ECM. If Relay 2 has no signal, I'd expect some kind of wiring fault; if relay 1 has no signal, I'd wonder if some anti-theft bollocks in the ECM might be playing up. Looks like one is switched on the positive side and the other is switched on the negative side, so keep that in mind while you're testing.
You can get the EL section here. The diagram I'm looking at is on EL-698. There should be a "location of electrical units" or "harness layout" diagram somewhere in there showing the locations of the relays, ground points, and connectors. The fuse box diagram showing which fuses are which (they're numbered in the electrical diagrams, not labelled, because everyone likes an extra layer of BS in between you and the thing you're looking for) is in the foldout.
The pump only needs 12v across the white/blue and black to run, so if it turns out to be a wiring issue, you could just hotwire it to get it going (or at least to test it). If the anti-theft is what's locking it out, though, you might not have spark or injector pulse either.
So im in the process of testing and found out relay 2 (passenger side) is working and clicking as well. Seems like i have no power to the relay 2( drivers side). I bypassed the relay by connecting 2 points together and fuel pump is working. But i still have crank but no start
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12 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:
Probably just a bad pump. I have replaced a few where the motor runs, but the impeller is bad.
i have checked for power at the pump connector and theres 0 Power
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On 11/10/2020 at 4:20 AM, Slartibartfast said:
The only common computer issue I'm aware of on the R50s is the idle control frying its mosfet (the thread dbot linked). The idle control mosfet issue shouldn't take out the fuel pump, though. Unless the computer gives you a reason to suspect it, I'd assume it's being troublesome by design rather than actually broken.
The computer can be replaced if it turns out to be borked, but I wouldn't count on it being plug and play. You're also limited to '01/'02 for donors, because those are the only years that Nissan made the VQ with a cable throttle. Hopefully someone who's replaced theirs (or an old problem or project thread) can give you a better picture of that than I can.
Good luck!
thanks. the only reason i ask is because the previous owner tells me he had the TPS go out and took the ecu mosfet with it. he keeps insisting its the TPS and not the IACV lol.either way he sent the ecu out to be repaired and put in a new TPS. it never started after that. he thinks its a faulty TPS. i just talked to him last night and this is what i got from him.
Intermittent no start issue
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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i wil check the gas cap next time it happens. most likely today lol. I have not cleaned the MAF sensor. i can try to clean it up today and see if it makes a difference.