Shift_Path90
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Posts posted by Shift_Path90
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I have my intake manifold off at the moment as I am replacing all my valve lifters. I have read to replace hoses under the plenum, but there are quite a few there, and as I've been doing some research to purchase some of mine that look rough, I have found that some have been discontinued. Are there any hoses which are highly recommended to be replaced? My 1990 path has 135k miles on it at this time. I plan to replace all the rubber vacuum lines with silicone lines.
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The drivers side valve cover is leaking, so I may get into that, but it looks to be quite a bit more involved with that plenum removal. On the other hand it may make installing the Doug Thorley headers a little easier.
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I like that idea, as I am not entirely sure if there are any sludged up oil passages. How do you go about getting the kerosene out of the engine?
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1 minute ago, Rockclymr said:
You should be able to compress the lifters as the spring inside is not so strong that they cant be moved. The pressure of the oil in the lifter while running is what absorbs the harmonics of the valvetrain so that's where the noise comes from if one or more of them are collapsed or not oiling properly. I usually pour about a quart of kerosene in before i do an oil change and run for 10-15 min to thin the oil and cut out that sludge. Must work ok since my VG30 went 320K w no problems before I pulled it.Those compression #'s are fine do doesn't appear you need to pull the head. Definitely check the cam lobes while you have the lifters out and look for signs of scoring or dark areas that look like its heated up.
Do you think that because I am unable to compress the lifters, that sludge has blocked the ports? I may soak a lifter in kerosene and see if it compresses after being cleaned up.
I will take pictures of the components but everything looks pretty good. I may need to pick up a micrometer to do some measurements.
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1 hour ago, silverton said:
With the engine being timed and you not knowing where the pistons are, I advise against forcing a valve open.
I was only referring to compressing the valve lifters, not the valves themselves. I figured from the compression numbers that the valves and pistons/rings were all seating relatively well to build that pressure.
Either way I have a new set of lifters on the way. I'm just wondering if there was a way for me to know by looking at the old ones whether they are really the culprit. I'm wondering if the problem could lie in the rockers and wear on them, despite them looking as expected. I figure even a really small amount of wear on the rockers or lifter would cause some metal to metal ticking sounds. The rockers on the shaft are pretty snug.
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I finished checking compression.
C1: 165
C2: 155
C3: 160
C4: 155
C5: 165
C6: 160
I have also removed the right side valve cover, and removed the rocker assembly. There does not seem to be any abnormal wear on any components on initial inspection. There is some sludge build up in areas that do not get much oil flow. I will need to clean things up and take a closer look at surfaces.
I inspected all the valve lifters and none seem to be squishy when I try to compress them, but I also cannot compress them. I used a 2 x 4 as to not damage the surface of the lifter, with all my weight on it, and it didn't budge. Should I be able to compress them?
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8 minutes ago, adamzan said:
I swapped a jdm engine into my 95, I don’t know how long it had been sitting in the warehouse, but it sounded exactly like this. Eventually it came out of it after a few oil changes and has been silent ever since. That was 5 years ago now.
If I were in your shoes I would try and replace the lifter. They aren’t that expensive and at 135k that motor should have plenty of life left. Or you could try and clean it up with some seafoam or berrymans b12 in the crankcase.
I have the lifters and gaskets ordered. I'm going to test compression on cylinder 4 and 6 today as I had the battery charged yesterday. I am planning on taking off the cover and remove the lifters for inspection.
Any thoughts on any other things to do while the valve cover is off? Using seafoam, some other additive, or cleanser to clean off other components?
If the right side lifter replacement resolves the tick, I'll plan on doing the driver side as well, but I'll need to plan on other parts to replace while the intake is off.
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17 minutes ago, SpecialWarr said:
OBX or PaceSetters?
Neither. I got some Doug Thorleys.
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22 minutes ago, silverton said:
Sounds way too fast to be the bottom end. Those numbers are passable. You do not want more than 10% of a difference between the highest and lowest numbers. 150 to 165 is 9.5% so it's almost there. Even so, you won't notice much of a hit to performance or gas mileage. Once the battery is charged retest #4 and you may find it pump to 155 or 160.
So far as I can see/hear, your bottom end is healthy but that top end has a nasty lifter tick. A mechanics stethoscope, or a long screw driver, could help you pinpoint which head you need to remove.
Thanks Silverton. I have ordered another battery charger, which should be here by Wednesday. I may just drop it off to be tested and charged though, as the dead battery is the bottle neck to moving forward. I am interested to open it up to see what kind of issues there are.
I have a set of headers waiting to be installed, and if I have to take the intake manifold off, it might be a good time to get those installed as well. But you all have me excited about getting this thing back on the road.
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On 11/28/2020 at 9:46 PM, Rockclymr said:
Man that does not sound good...could be a number of things in the valvetrain but doesn't sound like a rod knocking. I'd pull the plugs and do a compression test.
Standard compression should be around 173 psi and 128 minimum w/ no more than 14 psi difference between cylinders. Record what you get and post back.
I was able to find a loaner compression tester gauge. I was only able to test 5 out of the 6 cylinders, prior to the battery pooping out on me. I'll need to get it charged. The last cylinder is the dreaded number 6 on the back end of the engine. I'm unsure if the C4 number is accurate or if that is due to the battery losing power on me.
C1: 165
C2: 155
C3: 160
C4: 150
C5: 165
Thanks again for the advice and help guys.
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Rockclymr,
Thanks for the link and the information. It sounds like it is relatively straight forward. The ticking definitely sounds like it is coming from within the passenger side valve cover/head. I will see if I can get my hands on a compression tester to test for compression. I have ordered the valve lifters you linked, as well as the valve cover gasket that slartibartfast mentioned. I'm only going to open up the passenger side to remove/replace the valve lifters. Is there any issue with only doing one side initially? Thanks again.
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Rockyclymr,
I have a fear of running it too long as I'm unsure what this is. If I do a compression test do I need to get it up to normal operating temps for accurate numbers?
Slartibartfast,
I've followed a few of your posts, and appreciate the info you've given the forum. If I open up the heads, would I just be trying to loosen up all the valves to see if any are stuck? If any are stuck, would I not need to pull the heads to have them rebuilt? Also is there an oil flush treatment you recommend before opening everything up?
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Can anyone guestimate whether this tick is an issue with a valve or an issue with a rod? I'm trying to decide on what to do with this Pathfinder. Video is taken with the phone close to the passenger side head.
Background info.
This is from my in-law's 90 Pathfinder, with 135k miles. It has sat for extended periods, and because of the low miles, they did not feel that they should change the oil at recommended intervals so it may have been changed once a year, if that. It starts without issue, but the ticking is fairly loud. No lights on the dash, and no codes under the passenger seat. Teeth on timing belt are correct, with marks on the sprockets at the right position.
I've thought about swapping an engine, but a mechanic has suggest a complete rebuild to know what we will be getting. A neighbor believes it to be a sticky valve, and thinks I should pull the heads, and have them rebuilt. I have a budget of 3k to get this thing back up and running.
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I pulled it apart and all timing marks look good. I re-tensioned the belt as maybe it was too tight. I started it, and I can now hear a knocking sound. I recheck the ecu self diagnostic, and I still get "55". I'm lost at the moment, and hopefully have not caused any major damage.
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I am wondering if this is an oil pump failure. When I check the oil level via dipstick, it appears to be overfilled. Could it be that all the oil is down in the oil pan now?
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Semi-new member here. I have my in-law's '90 4x4 SE with 136k. I did a timing belt change, along with seals, water pump and thermostat, without any issues. I have replaced the spark plugs, dist cap, and rotor. I used the pathy over the weekend, without any issues. On Sunday, my wife was sitting in the car with the engine running, while I got some food, probably 30 minutes wait, and we drove home without any issues. The engine temp was fine throughout. Sunday night we decide to go do some grocery shopping, I went to start the pathy and it was noticeably rough, during idle and in drive, so I just parked it. I checked the codes with the self-diagnostic and got "55," so no issues recorded on the ECU. Any ideas?
I checked the plugs and they all look good. Checked the wires if they were loose, and all were good. I am wondering if the timing belt skipped? Though I think I had pretty good tension on it. I'm probably going to pull it back apart just for ease of mind to see that everything lines up correctly.
I'm so open to suggestions as I have no other ideas. I would have loved to get a code from the ECU pointing to the culprit.
Most important hoses to replace under intake manifold plenum?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Thanks for the advice. I wasn't planning on pulling the injectors and the lower manifold, but if there are a few hoses under there, I want to try to replace them. I'll pull the injectors and plan on replacing the seals on them as well.