The_Oregonian
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Posts posted by The_Oregonian
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On 10/10/2023 at 12:15 PM, tobin_r50 said:
what kind of bulbs did you put in the fog lights? I am looking to replace mine.
Just some cheap H3 LEDs from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CTMTATI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
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18 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:
Did you swap out your headlights?
Yes! I'll probably do a more in-depth post in my build thread when I can but these are headlight buckets that a guy in Australia designed & 3d printed, and allow you to swap in LED sealed beam style 5x7 lights. There are cheaper options for the 5x7 lights themselves, but I went with a set of Morimoto LED's.
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Beauty shot from camping this morning with the clouds below and Mt St Helens above.
@zakzackzachary Should recognize this spot!
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Not sure about your specific situation, however FWIW with my 2002 SE the recall only applied to the passenger side airbag (not the driver's side).
Dealer was happy to do the work here in the US. Are there any other Nissan dealers in Costa Rica you could try?
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22 hours ago, PRPatty said:
Hello there, greetings for PR
, we’re did you bought the 9447 springs? LR Direct?
That's correct!
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On 2/14/2023 at 8:29 PM, BCangler99 said:
Thanks for linking an explanation video. That's good to know!
I will check with these suppliers and see if they ship to Canada.
No problem! @PathyDude17s channel has great info. There are additional options for front springs too like Dobinsons (which is what I have), as well as Ironman 4x4.
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+1 on the Dobinsons - https://www.dobinsonsdirect.com/products/dobinsons-pair-of-front-coils-for-nissan-pathfinder-r50-1995-2005c45-168?rq=mk_nissan~md_pathfinder-r50~yr_1995-2005
I've been running these for a couple of years and am happy with them.
Another option would be Ironman 4x4 - https://ironman4x4america.com/front-1-5-coil-springs-medium-load-0-110lbs-suited-for-nissan-pathfinder-r50/ , or Old Man Emu.
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I'll preface this by saying that I have a VQ35 Pathfinder and don't have direct experience with a VG Pathy, however:
1. It's my understanding that the VG's are pretty under-powered. For example I was following a friend and former 3.3 Pathy owner who still frequents NPORA forums ( @zakzackzachary ) up a highway grade. He radioed me and asked how my 3.5 was doing out of curiosity - I never went beyond 1/4 throttle and stayed in 3rd gear the whole way up. He said that his 3.3 would have been screaming at full throttle by the top of that grade just to keep up with traffic (correct me if I'm wrong Zack). I would expect this to be even worse at Colorado elevations.
2. Your 3.3 is a stout engine - I wouldn't be super concerned about running at 3.5-4k RPM for a period - it can handle it.
Because of this I'd be more concerned with the over heating. Consider checking the condition of the radiator, doing a coolant flush, check for coolant leaks, check condition of the radiator cap seal etc.
I'm open to being corrected by others as well...
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I THINK you'll be okay with the SE roof rack. I've seen others run heavier traditional soft-shell RTT's which are probably 120-130lbs. I'm not aware of published load ratings for the rack but maybe someone else is...
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Looks great!
I somehow get trail rub in the rear that caused me to break some of the fender flare clips with 31X10.5 tires, 3.75" backspacing, and 33-185552 Bilstien 2" extended shocks...
I'll be interested in seeing what solution you come up with.
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I think it looks good. I think I've seen someone do similar with the NISSAN lettering on the grill but I can't find the image... I think it may have been a honeycomb style grill though.
If you end up doing this please keep us posted!
Also - I was looking into doing retrofit headlights as well, but on one of the Pathfinder Facebook groups a guy posted who is making these - https://www.etsy.com/listing/1166716931/darthfinder-5x7-headlight-enclosures and I ordered a set. It allows you to run 5x7 sealed beam style LED headlights. Was closer to a plug and play so I figured I'd give it a shot.. Not completely sold on the look, but I wasn't quite ready to tackle a DIY retrofit kit and like you I'm tired of the factory halogens...
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I'll preface my response by saying I am no means an expert on this - so take it for what it is....
I was going to suggest a road force balance so I would wait until that is complete without going much further. That said it's probably worth jacking your front end up and double checking your wheel bearings for extra play as well as making sure your ball joints, tie rods etc. don't have excessive play just to definitively rule that out. It may also be worth playing around with different tire pressures (plus or minus 5psi or so) to see if you can dial the wobble down a bit that way.
Were your steelies brand new or did you pick them up used? Are you confident a wheel or 2 isn't bent/warped?
How bad is the wobble? I also have steelies and 31's and I have a tiny bit of wobble at freeway speeds but it's so minor I have to be actively thinking about it to even notice. Steel wheels and oversized AT/MT tires are notoriously hard to balance so it may be the nature of the best...
Hope that helps.
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2 hours ago, 98dreamer said:
Ok, fine sir. Seeing the quality of the rack, and it is pretty. How about a bumper system, or a front bumper. Winch capable, bull bar, 6" LED blinkers, and I'd gladly pay $1500 for that. R50s need those, really, rilly, bad.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Off topic for this thread but this seems to be what you are looking for - https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/arb-sahara-bar-black-3938040/_/R-BHWQ-3938040
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Coastal Offroad makes a weld it yourself kit that I believe is winch ready - https://www.coastaloffroad.com/product-category/1996-2004-pathfinder/
Other popular option would be ARB
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Finally have a couple of new updates.
Installed front & mid skid plates as well as a missing link from SF Creation. I had the front plate, and missing link powder coated by Steve, but left the mid in raw aluminum.
Also got a rear window molle panel that a guy who is local to me was fabricating and selling them in one of the Pathfinder Facebook groups. He sells them in raw aluminum, but I went ahead and painted them in rattle-can bed liner. Install was a bit of a pain, and made me wish I had an additional arm to hold the thing in place (he doesn't pre-drill the holes etc. so you have to mock it up etc.). Came out pretty good in the end though.
I also got a gift certificate for Weather Tech for my birthday, and since I already have their mats and rear cargo liner I opted to try out their seat back protectors to gain some additional storage options. They are not cheap but as with all Weather Tech products they are made in the USA & are very high quality. They don't install the way that is intended on the seat bottom so I routed the straps underneath the brackets that bolt the seats to the floorboard, and it worked great.
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2 hours ago, PeteMcG003 said:
Yes its sagging without load to the point where the back end is just pretty much riding on the bump stops
Got it. I'm surprised they settled like that so quickly. It may be worth letting us know what brand of spring you got so others can steer clear...
My advice (as I detailed in my first response) would be go with a high quality OEM replacement springs. I don't think a lift will be worth it for your use-case.
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2 hours ago, mjotrainbrain said:
I'm assuming due to his complaint of sag, that the reason for installing a lift is to be able to take advantage of stiffer springs in the rear. I agree with your comments though.
@PeteMcG003, if indeed your goal is to get better load carrying capacity in the rear, I would suggest helper air bags. There's a few threads on here about them.
If you do want to go lifted in addition to increasing the load carrying capacity, I would also suggest echo the comment to avoid spacers; lift springs will save you a lot of trouble (CV wear, torn CV boots, having to redo it later, etc.), and they really aren't that hugely much more; probably a difference of ~$100. I'm a student too, so I know the struggle. A 1" spacer would be pretty safe if you feel that route is most appropriate to you.
Another option would be to just get the rear LR springs and leave the front stock. They'll cheaply increase your load carrying capacity and begin moving you towards lifting the vehicle. The ride height difference will likely be something you can live with. A bit of rake on a SUV isn't uncommon anyways; a 4th gen 4Runner has ~2" of rake from the factory. If you frequently haul stuff in the back the weight will help keep the rake minimized anyways. Plus, you'll avoid having to deal with camber bolts and funky alignments.
I suppose that's true - I took it as he replaced the rear with cheap replacement springs and they are already sagging/worn without a load.
OP - Are you able to clarify if you are sagging without a load, or sagging when loaded with camping gear/trailer/etc.?
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If I were you I wouldn't do spacers - or even a lift.
From what I've seen most people that go with spacers at first end up wanting to switch to springs soon after because the ride/handling is so compromised. On top of that with spacers you're changing the entire geometry of the front suspension and running the risk of wearing out your CV Axles.
If this is your daily driver, and you only use it occasionally on light forest roads why lift at all? A lift in general will only make it worse to drive on the street (higher center of gravity resulting in worse cornering/handling & increased rollover risk, decreased gas mileage because of increased coefficient of drag etc.).
Go with a good quality OEM replacement suspension and your Pathfinder will serve your needs extremely well and will be plenty capable tackling your camping trips.
That's my opinion and welcome yours.
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I haven't - but I have heard good things about the Sumo Springs kit which seems to be a similar product - https://www.superspringsinternational.com/shop/ssr-625-40/ .
Here is a video that was done with these on a Pathfinder for reference -
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1 hour ago, hawairish said:
May need to check if yours are the aluminum ones, though. I think there were two styles that had steel frames, and one with aluminum. My buddy's 02 SE had aluminum ones.
Now that you mention it I do think they're aluminum.
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Thanks for taking the time to post this @hawairish. I may be hitting the pause button, and looking for a fabricator.. The mounts are a good idea - I have the factory side steps kicking around..
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19 hours ago, hawairish said:
My truck had them when I bought it used, and eventually I landed on a rock hard enough to push the slider into the rocker panel and shift it upwards. There’s basically no gap anymore where the corner of the door meets on the hinge side.
Generally speaking, I was never a fan of the use of large self-tapping bolts and drilling into the pinch weld seam to mount them, but any other approach would require specific mounts. This was generic enough.
I eventually chopped off the mounts from OE QX4 side steps, plated them up, and welded them to the sliders to mount on OE spots. I did something similar for R50JR’s truck with Trail Gear sliders and R50 steps. They’re a little different in drop height; my sliders still tuck up pretty high, which I prefer.
Hmm - this is what I was concerned about. Thanks for the feedback.
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41 minutes ago, Rons50 said:
I just received my order for the super slider version (bolt-on of course) earlier this week. I'll post once I install them. This would be my second time getting this. I had a 97 years back and sold it. Now I have a 2002.
Once I feel confident in my welding skills I'll cut the brackets and weld it. For now the bolt-on approach is more than sufficient for me.
I can take pictures this weekend of me unwrapping it from its packaging.
That would be great! I was looking at the Super Sliders as well. I appreciate it!
R50 Molle Panel kits
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by The_Oregonian
I love my molle panel I got from Nik. Great guy, and the panel is well designed.
**Note - they come bare aluminum, but I sprayed mine with rattle can bed liner.