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Posts posted by BamaQX402

  1. 3 hours ago, R50JR said:

    You’re better off finding these parts at a junkyard. Shipping will kill you.

    Sent from my Pathfinder

    You're probably right. The 2 pick-n-pulls closest to me are Montgomery, an hour away and Mobile, 2 hours away, just haven't had the time to road trip, between working on this Q & my Dodge which is almost done (just chasing last issue with it going into limp mode)

    I did find a local Pathfinder that I he laughed at my $400 offer (needs engine work, dry rotted tires, 2wd, oh and no title) said used cats were worth $400, LMBO, I told him he could have those, but no deal.


  2. > Left back door weather strip

    > A pair of black leather headrests

    > Qx4 Bose stereo head unit

    > Black cargo cover

    Items I wish I could find

    > Brush gaurd

    > Skid plates/ armor

    > Set of 4.25" center bore center caps

    > Swing out spare tire rack

    Anyone have any items they'd ship to 36453, let me know!

    Thanks, Alan

  3. Waiting on my front springs and panhard bushings. I think I hear my front bearings starting to make noise, but it could be any of the other worn parts or a combination. I picked up a set of 8x15 aluminum wheels for my AT 31s. But only have 3.5" of backspace, another reason for bearings.

    I think while I'm lifting and doing suspension bushings I'll go ahead and replace steering components so I'll only need 1 alignment. I had just paid for Firestones lifetime alignment on our Rogue about a week before my wife totaled it :(

  4. So when I lock these hubs the loud noise stops, however now I do hear a constant faint noise. I believe when I unlock them they allowed the bearings to overclock, thus letting me know it's time for new ones, I bought this off a lot that someone traded in, so I don't have any history. With almost 200K showing and the fact that all the bushings are bout shot, I'll add bearings and go ahead and do the steering while I'm rebuilding the suspension.

    Should I go ahead and plan to do rear bearings? I'm not too enthused to pull rear axles...

  5. Looks like this turned into a 16" wheel thread? I just bought a set of 15x8 aluminum wheels for $100. I tried one on and had no brake clearance issues, but I got home and measured the backspace to discover its 3.5"

    I'm lifting 2-3" and have 31 10.5 15 AT tires that I want to run, but now I'm worried about the outside edge clearance at full lock. I'm going mount one and experiment with it in stock form. I'll keep you posted. ;)

    resized wheel.png

  6. I did order my springs from Desert Rat!

    I'm gonna go ahead and order strut bearings and bellows. I ordered 1 set of camber bolts, will 1 per side work with OME HD springs + 1" spacer, or will I need all 4?

    My panhard bushings are backordered ;'(

    So suspension is temp back-burnered.

    I was getting the code for right vvt-solenoid, replaced it, now getting code for the left, ordered it. When I did my power valve screws I didn't have a thinwall deep 12mm to get the lower intake off, if I go back in to replace pcv & water valve do I need another new set of manifold gaskets, or am I safe to reuse the set I just replaced?

    I did install a rear spoiler and replaced a cracked taillight in between working on sis-n-laws pathfinders overheating problem. Great learning experience :/


  7. I got the water valve replaced, fuel injection back on, some rain and the day running out I quit for today, I'll finish putting intake back on in the morning. If that doesn't do it the only thing left is a radiator or waterpump.

    Sucks to have to do all this when I could be working on mine. So while we waited on a radiator to arive I went ahead and flushed the coolant system. Didn't remedy the problem, but the new radiator did!

    Thanks for the help!

    The way I see it, everything else was prevented maintenance, to include power valve screws, pcv, and cleaned the maf & TB.

    • Like 1
  8. I got the water valve replaced, fuel injection back on, some rain and the day running out I quit for today, I'll finish putting intake back on in the morning. If that doesn't do it the only thing left is a radiator or waterpump.

    Sucks to have to do all this when I could be working on mine.

  9. The radiator looks clean. Bubbles come up when decelerating. She drove it today and it did seem to take longer before temp rose. I'll burp it again in the morning, and I guess go get a tester and see if it will hold pressure.

  10. Sis-n-law is down from N. Ga, her 92 LE is overheating. Idles at normal temp, but after driving 20 or so minutes the temp starts to rise, putting it in neutral and reving drops it back to normal, so does turning on the heater. Her boyfriend diagnosed it from 400 miles away as a bad thermostat, which she bought, and I installed to no avail. I could stop the fan so I thought it needed a clutch, still to no avail. No coolant in oil, or oil in coolant, no visible leaks, no steam from exhaust, radiator looks nice and clean, swithed caps with my Q. Trying to burp the system, the metal tube was stopped up with crud, I cleared it. Ive been jacking up the front and clamped on a clear hose and routed it into a jug with water. While running (w/heater on), I rev it and get air bubbles when I let off, and it takes water from the jug. Radiator and purge tank maintain correct levels. I've done this 3 times. Am I missing something, or am I about to be forced to change the water valve (rear thermostat)? I'd really, really hate to do that if I can help it.


  11. On 5/17/2020 at 10:57 PM, Dbot said:

    2002 4x4 Auto LE


    I've owned it for about a year and I'm behind on lifting. I had always wanted to build up something beyond stock for over a decade and now is that time. I had always assumed I'd start with the lift then make a build page, but I'm gonna start this now since I have about half the parts in my garage and the remaining parts are in the mail right now. This will give me some opportunity to take feedback and suggestions from you all more knowledgeable folk before I start turning wrenches in a week or two.


    About this vehicle, I picked it up last April when I needed something to replace my high mileage Altima with a slipping cvt. With my wife out of work at the time, I only had limited funds and for whatever reason vehicle prices were stupidly high at that time of year so I ended up with this 02 for $1500.00. The exterior is riddled with flaking paint, rust spots, dents, scuffs and scratches. The inside had grime, torn leather and lots of broken plastic. The death sway was very noticeable and I couldn't hear it's exhaust leak over the whiny pulley but there was no check engine light, water damage and the strut towers looked good. It was good enough to get around town for pizza deliveries by night and get me to my day job. Throughout 2019 I gradually spent dozens of hours and hundreds of dollars fixing it up. It and it's 2001 R50 companion can be found on Instagram as @dospaths where I document the endless repairs.


    So the fun stuff:


    Most of the above parts are in the garage. The rest (coils and shocks) are in the mail. The Warn hubs are from a salvage yard and were in rough grimey shape. They are diassembled and sitting in a jar of degreaser for the next couple of days. If they look ok when it's down to just the bare metal, I'll order a service kit from Warn to rebuild them. If not, I'll be checking out the Mile Marker hubs online. 






    My tenative plans are to start with the trailing arm bushings. I've been tagging the bolts with WD-40 about every other day and I'm going to borrow a heavy duty 120v impact gun for that. I'll use the sawzall to remove the existing bushings and assuming the trailing arms are oem or oem equivalent, they split bushings will fit right in those diameters.\

    After that, I'll pull the shocks and coils out then put in the 9449s (hopefully without spring compressor), then put in the Bilstein 5100s. Any tips or advice for coil and shock installation (orientation etc) is welcome.

    After getting warmed up on the rear, I'll do the struts next. I'll install the OME HD coils and the new strut bearings. Now, I know somebody on here will advise to not use a 1" spacer with those coils but I'm also open to the collective group opinion on that considering I'll be using manual hubs. So I'll either install the spacer with the struts or leave it out for a few months before revisiting the strut to put it in once the coils have worn in. Any installation advice is welcome too.

    Install manual hubs.

    I'll then put in camber adjust bolts and find a shop that understands what I've done and get an alignment. 

    I was looking at your list of parts, namely wheels, your link shows those have 4" of back spacing. I've yet to order a set (I was gonna get 15s) but from what info I've been gathering, we need 3.75" to clear the lower spring perch on the struts. Will 4" clear or are you planning to use wheel spacers?


  12. So everything is either in my shop or on the way, ordered 1" spacers from SFcreations last night.

    What is up with the exorbitant shipping from 4x4parts? Are there any other options as to where to buy springs?

    Bilstein lift & Ironman show they're out of stock.

    Help! The last part, maybe should've been the 1st??

  13. I did a write up on replacing rear bushings, you will have to remove the locating tabs inside the front pocket for the lowers, I tried to grind the 1st one with a dremel, that took a long time, then just used a small chisel/hammer on the remaining 3, quick & easy.

    I still have to do my panhard, swaybar, shocks, & I have the 9447s on the way to complete the rear, then on to the front!

    I've yet to order front lift, but am planning to use the same set-up!

  14. So I finally started useing my ever-growing pile of parts, got engine tuned up. Next I'll service the transmission, and install aux cooler

    >Do most folks bypass factory cooler? I've always installed aux coolers in line to increase efficiency, I worry just running the aux won't be sufficient. (I have a good Derale 19 row series 10000 stack plate cooler)

    And I've got, or have ordered, everything for the suspension (all polly bushings, endlinks, 9447 rear springs, & KYBs) except for whatever I decide to use for front lift.

    I dont like the idea of stressing the CVs with spacers, & I know it would be cheaper to use AC springs for 2 inches, but don't want to listen to the ole lady complaining about topping out. So I'm leaning towards ARB/OME HD springs & a 1 inch spacer. Currently no bumper mods, but am leaning towards at least a brush guard and skid plates. My overall goal is a dependable, comfortable daily driver with 245/75-17 ATs, and some occasional off roading (here in lower Alabama; hills, sand, mud, water, ruts. No rocks or mountains)

    Does this sound like a reasonable set-up?

    As soon as I figure out new phone and how to get pics to post, I'll be sharing more as I make more progress and project evolves!

  15. 1 hour ago, Mr_Reverse said:

    There is a seal between the valve cover and the tube that the spark plug is in. That seal is known to leak. If you have the aluminum valve covers, then the seals are replaceable. If you have the plastic covers, then the cover needs to be replaced since the seals are not replaceable in them. 

    Yes, mine are plastic, bummer...

    I'll start looking, that's better than having to go into the engine or head, I guess?

    Thanks for your help.

  16. So yesterday I gave the Q some love; belts, hoses, power valve screws, filters, VVT solenoid, plugs. When I pulled the #3 plug there was quite a bit of oil dripping from the threads. Plug was not fouled & no oil on the valve cover or coil. Where can it be leaking from, and I still have oil around the cooler, but I've already replaced it's O-rings. So I believe this is where my oil is going, but  ignorant as to where it could be coming from. Has anyone had anything similar?

  17. Yeah I didn't add any, it had a pretty good coating on them, I figure once they wear in some it will stop. I need to lock them and see if it persists, just to verify. I made a point to jack it up and try to wiggle tires to check bearings/ball joints, nice and tight.


  18. So I bought a set, made a world of differance. But now every so often on the passenger side it's making a buzzing sound for an instant, and once yesterday I was pulling a trailer & when I had to stop suddenly it did it.

    Did I waste my money on those? Am I ruining my axle? I have a set of new axles...

  19. I've been in the process of gathering parts; engine tune, belts/hoses, gaskets to do my power valves. And also struts/shocks and bushings, to complete rear and start the front.

    I accidentally bought 2 sets of rear swaybar bushings, one set of PSBs and another of the Siberian bushings (which is what I bought for the front) Any opinions on either brands?

  20. On 11/7/2018 at 5:53 PM, AlabamaDan said:

    I think the taillights from the Pathfinder are different from the QX4.  Maybe you're confusing the two?

    My 02 Q has the same as the Pathfinder, white-red-white w/red boarder. I know because it came with one cracked, and I've been shopping around for 1 on eBay.

  21. So I'm in the process of gathering parts for our Q (general maintenance, tune up, and some upgrades to include lifting). I've already replaced the rear link bushings, but still feel an ever so slight torque shift in the rear.

    I want to replace swaybar & panhard bushings with poly.

    I'm having a hard time finding them as my swaybar is 16mm, all I'm finding is 18mm. I'd really love to upgrade to a thicker bar. Can anyone enlighten me as to which model Pathfinder has the largest swaybar to fit our R50s?

    And the best place to buy poly panhard bushings, I'm confused with what I'm finding, as none give me conclusive fitment info. I'd like to find a set of split bushings, like I used in the links.

    Please point me in the right direction, thanks

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