Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

Dbot

Members
  • Posts

    82
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by Dbot

  1. I say YAY.

    A mesh grill would make the front end pop some more for less effort but your design would be unique and look just as good if not better if you don't mind the work. 

    A guy did this grill design to his Xterra and it turned out great. Blacked out edges of headlights look great also. 

     

     

    • Like 1
  2. Bronzed Gray KXO paint. I see pictures of others with that paint in good condition and I think it's one of the best colors. But mine and the few around me in my neck of the woods all have damaged clearcoat. They only used the paint for 2001 and 2002 so you're probably not going to find a donor in the junkyard. I found a part out locally. Drove an hour to go see it. It's clearcoat was toast just like mine. 

  3. Are the Homelink buttons on the mirror always active even without a key or do they require some sort of ACC/ON position to function?

     

    Pulled an OEM Gentex mirror from a r51 for the wife's xterra and wanted to find out here before potentially any thieves find out. Every once in a while, the X gets left unlocked by mistake which would either be bad or very bad depending if somebody got access to the garage.

  4. Well since the host of the site had a failure a few days ago, I'll go ahead and toss in a recap to the build from May 2021 to present since some of my build posts are gone. 

     

    2001 SE Grille: Kind of a rare find since the Bronzed Gray paint only existed in 2001 and 2002. Found it listed in a local part out. Sadly the part out had worse paint on the hood and fenders than mine but I digress.

    y4mbCgzipVQG9OKk9tOZjBMwA5tWeiMM83OAMz49

     

    Powerstop z36 front brake kit.

    Local guy had a wrecked R50 that I was buying parts from. He had these new in box and wanted me to take/buy them. I didn't need brakes so I was like "uh, I can do $20" and he handed them over.

    For daily driving and wheeling they don't feel any different than my stock discs and pads but whatevs.

    y4mrNppixfcvUIgQHovs3hZNR3hkYKgUCuoQd0zK

    y4mCvY74bBYpwOfwk89qCE7q47ZulsPnjBimYUW-

     

    Poly steering rack bushings form 4x4parts.com

    I rebuilt the front end with new cv axles, inner+outer tie rods, ball joints, inner+outer bearings, and rack bushings trying to find a popping noise that ended up being a control arm bushing.

    They don't appear to drive or feel  special but I think polyurethane is supposed to be more resilient to oil than rubber so that's comforting to know while I procrastinate on replacing leaky valve covers.

     

    y4mHv1hB_iqkAsk0sfBQYkC3gFGUPmfrBvQ1YzlQ

     

    Missing link

    Made this from 1.5" x 1.5" 1/8" steel square tubing. 23 7/8" long. Ends chopped at 45 degrees.

    Couldn't feel any difference driving or wheeling. This later got modified for a skid plate a few months later.

     

    y4mml367Pzytet1wM26zUZLSqlEo_xvFK1-eCi-1

     

    Skidplate. Had some trails at the offroad park that couldn't be finished because I lacked armor. After getting scammed on cheap rock sliders and Lokka taking 9 months to ship my part, my wife was very leery about me spending big bucks on car parts so I took matters into my own inexperienced hands to make my own skidplates. 3/16 thick 24x48 steel was "only" $96 so I started. 

    y4maO1TuZxyKoIAamN_gc2o2jV4AIs9fdcublHNU

     

    I first modified the missing link by adding a 1" spacer from square tubing so the plate steel would clear the front diff. 

     

    y4mpYTsmc4FHjvbmXRfRRDkAa1Z2JxYtC6tDBOYp

     

    I measured and cut out the mid skid and made notches for the rear control arm bolts.

     

    y4mS-yWZ9Fenpx2J5X9Cgq7_9GGNCR5dG5eBpnZq

     

    y4mqnGxGcrkZhrQ0qdJgOUFdZH7SfGBH0SpWYZJz

     

    I turned a lot of drill bits into smoke so drilling this took forever. I cut the front skid and notched it with an angle grinder. Apparently the plate steel had a wave to it and made it difficult to notch with the angle grinder without puncturing through the back side. 

    y4mKIGbP6HBEbkHQGZs8KH-dg30ZHjhyPBxj2dOc

     

    Welded the creases and cleaned up the mill scale and welds after several hours

     

    y4mlrFYir2_Qsx0tT-rhabgSc_tc26xqcxbgxLNQ

     

    Painted it with flat black rust converter for easy touch ups. Found some bolts at the hardware store. Got some washers for rocks to deflect off. Mounted it up.

     

    y4mhVaxCWJ-f0om4a_ML86HTMzLhdWtei70_BF5A

    y4mDo0YNNmG05IS0_rBKW3zSGkVRP2jm338JBPyL

    y4mECsKtELI3D6Tgq0hwruBF5vl8Hev-HI4DN1KU

     

    Just enough clearance between plate and diff

     

    y4mDxxpKBCvYGMXTIdBJRXFsNHZ1pLpftKunQXpq

     

    Took it to the offroad park and hit the trails I had to turn around on last time.

    Got some scars to test it out. I think it's a winner. Whenever time allows, I'll see about making a rear skid.

     

    y4mMg-H3jpivAZgrggsC2eSBel_YyeyxvLCrj6HD

    y4myiVj5EziTum5kjPnN_xI6Gn__EME2yVtkketJ

    y4mAvEyTDyo4cOYOHe7S-7O67HkfoLv2HoYUmloq

     

    So that's a wrap on the build as it sits now. 

    • Like 5
  5. My memory is so fuzzy, that it's very possible I'm wrong, but I thought you could access the bolts the hold the lower oil pan on the vg33 like you can with a vq35. Might be tricky for a hand grab if you have thick wrists but magnets and whatnot should be able to grab the missing piece if it's in the upper oil pan. You'd have to make sure you don't warp or gouge the lower oil pan during removal or you're gonna have to get real serious with the rtv or order a new pan. 

  6. I’ve been hanging around r50 forums and groups since I got mine in 2019. Haven’t really seen much chatter about reliability issues with the atx14a transfer case. Like any part, there’s gonna be somebody with a failure here and there but the atx14a isn’t even going to be in the top 15 issues for this platform. I have 237k miles in the clock and mine has held up to the abuse just fine. Just change the fluid at the intervals the manual specifies and if you submerged it in water or mud, just clean underneath really well so wire harnesses stay clean. In other words, don’t let the transfer case hold you back unless it acts up on a test drive 

  7. 4 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:

    I've never had a strut suspension to bits, and I've seen a few threads about strut top issues, but I'm not sure I'd fire the parts cannon just yet. Having it still make the noise when it's on jackstands makes me think it's not load-related, which isn't what I'd expect for either a strut top or a TRE. I'm also noticing you said both tie rods seemed like they were making the noise. Maybe both outer TREs failed prematurely, at the same time, or the noise is transferring really well from one side to the other, but noise on both sides of the rack has me wondering about the rack.

    I'd pop the outer TREs out of the knuckles and repeat your jackstand steering test. If it doesn't make the noise, steer the knuckles by hand to check the strut tops, and if those seem fine, check it again with one tie rod, then the other. If on the other hand the steering still makes the noise when it's not moving the knuckles, that suggests an issue with the rack, steering shaft U joints or rag, steering transfer box whatsit, or possibly the column. I would double-check the rack bushings, too, though again that seems like a long shot given how little load they're under with the truck in the air. If the feel-stuff-while-it-makes-the-noise test fails, disconnect things one by one until you find the problem. Obviously be mindful of the clockspring while doing this. I think the shafts are keyed so you can't reinstall them cockeyed, but I would still put a paint pen mark on them before pulling them apart just to be safe.

    This is brilliant! I’ll definitely be trying this the first chance I get. Thanks! 

  8. What I'm working with:

    • 2002 4x4
    • Lifted 1 year ago
    • Reused struts and strut hats
    • 1 yo OEM strut bearings
    • 1 yo AC coils
    • 1 yo Camber adjust bolts
    • 1 yo Inner tie rods
    • 1 yo outer tie rods
    • 1 yo steering rack bushings
    • 1 yo ball joints

    Wheeled all summer on those fresh components and everything was great. My last wheeling sesh was August.  Early 2021, I developed a popping/crunching sensation in the steering. I assumed it was the ball joint so I replaced both ball joints. The issue remained unchanged. For troubleshooting, I set the front end on jack stands and prompted the noise by having somebody turn the steering wheel. Best judgements of sound and feel by hand led me to the tie rods. Struts didn't have much of a output on feel or sound, nor did cv axles or ball joints. This led me to do the following:

     

    After replacing ball joints (which were actually still good btw) I replaced the following this month:

    • CV axles
    • Wheel bearings (inner and outer) and both sets of races
    • Inner tie rods

    Outer tie rods seemed really solid, almost like new and the grease boot didn't see compromised so i reused them.

    I took it to the shop for an alignment. The same guy that aligned it last summer aligned it again and said the alignment procedure was smooth and typical. After getting it from the shop, Everything feels straight and aligned but the popping/crunching is still there. 

     

    I can create this by low speed tight turns such as cutting the wheel to pull into a parking spot or follow a drive thru path. It seems that the low speed + hand over hand turning of the steering wheel causes this. This does not occur if you drive straight or if say you cut the wheel for a slow turn and hold it steady at an angle. It's the action of turning the steering wheel that causes it.

    What's weird is this occurred months after I last wheeled it. The only abnormal abuse my front end takes is that there is a 3" step transitioning from my driveway to my street. This transition is always taken at turned angle whether backing out or pulling in. (not good for steering components). My street is a main street so occasionally my approach home from the speedy street is a bit hot which causes strut top out with those old struts on new AC coils. 

    I guess i'm leaning toward aiming the parts cannon at the strut bearings and strut hats. Anyone have any thoughts on this before I drop another $100+ on parts and labor?

     

  9. He has a first person camera angle video of him driving a second gen Xterra and there is a written article either by him or his sidekick Roman that discusses the first gen Xterra. It’s very apparent that he doesn’t know much about either one to start with and he picks up on the basics about each one while doing a quick bit of research for his content. Basically mocks the name a bit for being a try hard name, talks about how mundane vibes are that it gives off. Talks about it it’s crude suspension, talks about skid plates, body on frame design and simplicity. It then clicks in his mind this is the stuff that matters and he talks about it in a “you know what, this is a cool vehicle hidden in a plastic panel disguise” kind of way ?
    I don’t think he cares much for Nissan suvs for whatever reason 

  10. 21 hours ago, colinnwn said:

    I'm pretty sure worn tensioners killed my engine at 265k. So just depends on how long you want to run it, and how much money or time you want to spend.

    All the research I've done is its a much bigger job to do chain and tensioners than anything else on your list.

    And if I elected to do it, there is no way I wouldn't do the water pump. Most cars with 100k timing belts have the pump as a scheduled service item at the same time.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     

    It’s not making any noise that I’m aware of.  As far as how long I want it to last? Beyond 300k. It’s more a pride thing than a money thing with this one. Lots of sweat and blood in the rig. If we all go by noise instead of mileage, I’ll leave the chains alone. As for the water pump, I suppose I could swap that when I’m behind the radiator for the alternator since you don’t actually have to remove the timing cover to access the pump. 

  11. 2002 Pathfinder 

    235,xxx miles (acquired by me at 206,xxx)


    Main maintenance items:

    Replace leaky valve covers

    replace alternator

     

    Secondary maintenance items:

    Spark plugs

    Pcv valve

    intake gaskets

    pcv hose

    Valve cover breather hose

    serpentine belts

     

    I’ll be doing those items within a few weeks

     

    The two items I’m wondering are:

    Should I take this opportunity to replace the timing chains, and tensioners? I can’t find anything that specifies a mileage to replace that. Some say those last forever but the severed timing chain on my 2001 r50 says otherwise. if there’s an interval that I’m missing somewhere that says 100/200/250k miles, I think I should do it now while valve covers are off.

     

    the second question is how long does the water pump last? I can replace it with the timing chain cover on or off. Anyone know an interval for water pumps? 

     

  12. Anecdotally I purchased one autozone cv axle over the summer (boot split a month after lifting hence my replacement). Autozone axle looked really solid and beefy. The same day I installed it, I drove 45 minutes to a trail via highway. Wheeled for 20 minutes then hit a mud hole with headlight deep water. Immediately after coming out of the water, I could hear the wet cv boot squeaking with each rotation. It popped off and kinked where it was lopsided and rubbed the control arm every rotation. Not sure how mud water did this but whatever. I bent it back and put it close to how it originally was. I haven’t done any true wheeling since then but I’ve done thousands of road miles and a few hundred snow 4x4 road miles. Cv axle is still intact despite a compromised boot.  

  13. Hi r51 gang, I’m familiar and active with the r50 platform but I’m pretty new to the post 2005 stuff. I’m probably going several hours out of town to the big city for another attempt to get a worthy r51. One of the lowest mileage  r51s I see is an s model. While I don’t need LE stuff, SE is the trim package Id like to own. Does anyone know what items I can swap over from a LE or SE (power seats, heated seats, fog lights etc) via my local junkyard or eBay? 
    I’m hoping some of the stuff is prewired and plug and play. I got the idea for this question because my dad has had great luck swapping LT trim components to his ls  trim Chevy. Everything was prewired and compatible 

  14. Hit 230k miles yesterday. I broke a trans cooler line on a rock wheeling this summer which sprayed the trans until empty. A month later the trans started acting up so I swapped it. I guess that’s my fault. Engine is rock solid though 

  15. One thing I’d suggest is hitting up nissanpartsdeals.com. You can look at every single part and part number for each month of production for every year. You can put in a vin and it pulls up that particular factory build. This would be good for looking for any differences around the engine crank between auto and manual. Also would work for the intake stuff too. Also, 2001 and 2002 use throttle cables. Not sure what the cutoff on the throttle cable is but I know my April ‘00 (2001) has the cable and my November ‘01 (2002) . Additionally, one can look at the engine timing critical components such as timing sprockets, crank sprockets, cam Phasers, upper oil pan, timing chain cover, cams, flywheel, flywheel sensor and stuff all change part numbers and designs ever few months during the production. This stuff will be your biggest headache for engine swap compatibility. As far as the difficulty of turning wrenches goes, It’s not easy. I’ve pulled an engine before in salvage (haven’t installed yet). Took me 11 hours to get the trans out, then it was another 7 hours for the engine. Could probably go much faster with a second set of hands while in the comfort of your own driveway. As far as other Nissan engine swaps go, it’s not any easier than putting in something from any other car manufacturer. That’s how different the other vq35 and vq40 engines are. If you could somehow know for sure you don’t have rod knock, replacing the timing chain guides, chains and water pump will be much easier and cheaper than a new engine. You can also run a compression test, if it’s bad, you can consider pulling the engine and heads to put in a new head gasket.

  16. I went two months of driving with a finicky reverse. When it warmed up and the weather was warm, it wouldn’t engage reverse immediately. Sometimes it would engage after a few seconds, other times it had to blip the throttle. I added a trans cooler and changed fluid but it made no difference. I just went ahead and swapped the trans. I learned to park facing downhill so I always had an out 

  17. On 8/30/2020 at 1:26 PM, PATHYNDH said:

    Ya totally hear ya...Ive known this buddy for like 20 years never have in my years and tons of cars I've owned have i used his option to use his shop til now. Well especially not this extensive. Ya it makes a huuuuuuuuuuge difference not having heavily rusted parts. Hey man at least u have all that, space and tools. I'm a home mechanic with cheaper brand tools, the other benefit is being here i'm surrounded with snap on tools if i need it and advice/help if needed. Good luck on the suspension overhaul guess PB blaster wont work, heat it is ha

    I’ve totally daydreamed about this before. Throwing a bunch of oem parts on mine for a deep overhaul in a shop. Just curious what’s the plug and crush washer above the rms for? 

  18. My 02 is tight also. It’s about the same as my 01. I replaced the connectors on the 01 without shortening the wire. I probably should have a bit more descriptive. The metal sleeve that’s crimped around the copper strands was severed by a 1/2” belt sander wand I got from harbor freight. I imagine a Dremel could also notch the metal sleeve with precision to where you could pry open the split sleeve in order to get it to let go of the wire. This will still cause a small handful of strands to break off but you’ll be fine.

  19. I bought mine at 206k mi and did it around 212k mi but there's been people who've had the issue with the screws falling in the intake way earlier. It's a roll of the dice. You could either be missing screws right now or you could go another 50k before dropping a screw. I'd recommend doing it when you do the IACV gasket.

    The 2001 and 2002 Pathfinders have a IACV gasket that gets brittle and eventually fails. When it fails, it drips coolant on electronics which shorts them out which has a chain reaction that shorts out the ECU. Power Valve screws won't work themselves loose sitting in a barn, but the 18 year old rubber gasket keeps aging whether it sits or drives. I would recommend buying the cheap gasket and an impact screw driver to change this first. While you're there, you have access to the power valve screws with just a few more turns of the wrench.

    • Thanks 1
  20. Wireless charging experiment:

    For whatever reason, my 02 LE doesn't come with that third cupholder the 03 models have. The flat spot has always just been the instinctive place I toss my phone. Its within reach, visible and it doesn't slide or bounce out of that spot. I've always wanted to give wireless charging a shot, so here's what I did.

    Picked up a tri coil Qi wireless charger from amazon

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07176HT5T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Bought a 104F thermal cut off switch

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PK6892Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Generic 12v USB phone charger

    Generic wire harness plug

    Auto/Cancel power seat switch from salvaged LE R50

     

    Wireless coil attached to plastic insert by jb weld

    Wireless coil fed by modified micro USB wire with thermal cut off switch spliced in.

    Modified micro USB wire connected to generic wire harness plug

     

    The other side of the wire harness plug is tapped into the 12v power socket on the dash in a parallel fashion.

    Blank plate on the dash has been swapped with the Auto/Cancel power seat switch. (acetone removed some of the seat graphic)

    Auto/cancel breaks the circuit.

     

    My experience with it has been decent so far. I'm using an iPhone Se 2020 edition with a silicone case and the phone is still able to charge. The phone has never had a chance to overheat since the thermal cutoff switch steps in really early. I had apparently made a miscalculation from Celsius for Fahrenheit. I thought initially, it would kill the circuit around 130F. Dry days with temps in the 30 (f) the charger seems to continuously charge unless I'm parked and idling a bunch. It will continuously charge in the 40s (F) on rainy days. It appears the heat is more from the engine/drivetrain and exhaust than from the wireless charging circuit. I can run maps continuously on the phone and the charger seems to be able to keep up with that. Being that winter is coming upon us, I'll leave the thermal cutoff switch in for now, and think about getting a different in the spring. 

     

     

    y4mp5XDVhEOopNJRKYePFDuRT2uoqVBxq7vYQVM3

    y4mLzUxgMOVU74LWsbXtInXfOs7qUVz-hIG01TES

    y4m-NtNhgcgb-tZmqlt4EB05GS4R83p18g6TyuUo

    y4mNyXI4XL4eloKqeC7SyNgxK5vr9on07EMA9Uc_

    y4myqYTJB_nAhi31wNlMCcBkyZp2ycmUka0ejgJ5

    y4mlpFqyPVDYXvUILZ7xVaQXZwrnG3GSUyrKzqb1

    • Like 4

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...