theApex
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Posts posted by theApex
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Sjackson - seems like that would be a cheaper option. i'll look into that.
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hey Mjotrainbrain thanks for the reply
the pathfinder is still on stock suspension - maybe its sagging already. it was rubbing alot before any cutting when wheels are turned. I cut some of the plastic from the wheel well and some from the bottom of the front bumper to get it cleared. it was good to drive, but still rubs in reverse.
After i filled up the car w/ gas and with 3 passengers it really rubs hard reverse w/ wheels turned close to full lock. so I figured it really drops the car.
I don't have any spacers. I partnered the AT tires w/ R15 procomps w/ 3.75 BS
this is from 4x4 parts.
do you have a link for the AC coils and LR coils?
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good luck man. i remember we used an extension and and adapter that bends with the socket. I was holding a steel bar to push the engine away from the firewall for a bit of clearance. bend the steel "L" brackets/braces out of the way with pliers - you can bend them back to place later on. ask someone with smaller hands to get in there to take it out.
also try removing as much as you can from the top and back as possible to get as much clearance as you can. Seperate that vacuum hose from piping in your picture, and i think that piping is attached to the side engine as well, removed it too. the coolant bypass leaked after I removed more hoses not a big deal, just messy.
I'm not too savy w/ mechanic stuff. not too sure if I used the correct terms.
It was really a pain. Also used a magnet to make sure that don't fall off when you are about to take it out. (you can tell by this that I was desperate already) I'm sure there is a better way, but this is how I did it.
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Hello guys,
need guidance to lift my pathfinder. I decided put 31x10.5 A/T tires on my pathfinder and now its rubbing like a B* and basically became useless for offroading. It was fine on stock tires for offroading.
me being stupid just decided to put bigger tires and started cutting inside the wheel well instead of lifting 1st.
I had to remove my rear fender flares and all mudflaps just to make the car usable again for daily drives and it still rubs on reverse close to full lock (need to cut more on front wheel well)
So I decided to lift it the pathfinder before winter boarding season comes, but it is too pricey...
I checked 4x4 parts but the 2" lift kits is expensive for me right now. Is it cheaper to buy the struts and springs separately for cheaper and which ones to get. I tried to search around the forums and it seems that the AC lift is popular, also that the LR spring for rear might be cheaper. I am trying to avoid getting spacers.
I just want to take it offroading again. . .
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I just moved my whole body from the right side to left side, on top of the engine, used all kinds of attachments, but don't exactly recall how i got that out. All I remember was that it was a pain in my behind and I wanted to forget it. hopefully I never do it again lol.
I also recall the feeling of reaching the waterfall at the end of the hike after i got it out.
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15-16mpg mixed hwy/city. sometimes 17 if I do alot of hwy. theses numbers were on standard size tires. recently just put on A/T not sure if it will affect mpg
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Year: 2001 LE
Lift : none - stock suspension
Wheels : 15x8 rock Crawlers 3.75BS
Tires : BFG KO2 A/T 31x10.5
Notes: rubbing on the front bumper on full lock or close to full lock. drove for a few miles and hit a dip and my rear tires rubbed on the rear fender flare.
I removed one of the rear fender flare last night and upon measurement = got me over an inch difference in space. I will keep the rear fender flares off until I save up for the lift.
maybe drive it more and the rubber will thin out lol. I can post a pic if anybody wanna see it.
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I have an 01came with 16s. recently swapped it with a r15 w/ 3.75 BS. no rubbing on the calipers or drums wasn't even close to the wheel.
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21 hours ago, RainGoat said:
Hi everyone! We’re glad to have you and I think you’ll find this a very usefull and welcoming community.
Unfortunately, let me start off with a little bit of bad news in an effort to prevent catastrophe. It is an uncommon, but frequent enough occurrence, for the screws on the power valves on the automatic transmission models to come loose and be ingested by the engine. Sometimes this happens without effect, but it’s usually discovered when it kills the engine. Nissan had TSBs to repair this problem on the Altimas & sport Sentras with the same engine & lost a Class Action Lawsuit on it in California with the Pathfinders. Otherwise, Nissan sadly never acknowledged the problem in R50s & did not alert owners. I was a victim and I know of 3 others in the last 2 years. The fix takes about 2-3 hours and can be done with fairly basic mechanical skills or by a mechanic. I strongly urge you to address it as soon as possible to avoid this sad fate. Below is a link to the best thread available regarding the repair.
POWER VALVES
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1
thank you for this. I think my uncle warned me about this when I purchased the vehicle but I did not pay much attention to that statement and thought I'll just take care of it when i hear the knock. I will definitely look into this and discuss it with him so he can help me take care of this.
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Hello,
Just got myself a 2001 Pathfinder LE 4x4. about 158k miles its Green and idc!
Found this site as a comment in Expedition Portal.
I am looking to find a guide to build a mild off road car for my newly obtained DD pathfinder. - - - - let me know if you can help or point me in the right direction!
I have no experience to lifting trucks and increasing wheels / tire sizes. I started going up the mountains 2-3 years ago and I don't want to chain anymore!
New Purchase - 2001 Infiniti QX4
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Man 1800 for that... is nice. I got mine for 19 and it ddnt have racks or nice wheels... good find.