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Smallpathy

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Posts posted by Smallpathy

  1. i vaguely remember this happening after i messed with the throttle body, i cant remember what exactly i did but it was something to do with the throttle position sensor. 
     
    Have you messed around with anything recently? Is it throwing any codes to speak of?
     
    -Kyle
    I figured it out the tbs was loose and was just doing what ever it wanted thank you

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    • Like 1
  2. Following

        Hey, I have a 2003 Pathfinder and I want to put disk brakes on the rear of the vehicle. I have a done a small amount of research, but I can't seem to find anything. If you guys could help me find everything I need for the conversion, it would be greatly appreciated by me and everyone else who wants to convert their rear brakes. If there is already a thread about this topic then my bad completely. 


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  3. The dimensions found on this forum are pretty much good with one exception, the angle of the strut spacers and the orientation of that angle. 
     
    Basically, your strut spacer tube should be straight up and down (perpendicular & parallel) in relation to the trucks subframe mounting points. The angle will be the same no matter what height you choose to make your lift. Just like the subframe blocks only give vertical change, the goal is to "translate" the compound angle of the strut mounting point straight down so when you are done the factory suspension geomterty will be retained.
     
    The posted prints on this site and elsewhere on the web show 8.5 degrees which is wrong. Most R50's will have anywhere from 10.4 to 12.0 degrees. There is some wiggle room so it doesnt need to be exact, but too much error on the strut spacers could result in your caster being out of spec which cannot be changed and camber being off, requiring camber bolts to correct the offset.
     
    Again, your strut tube should be square to the subframe mounts when you're done. If they look like they're leaning in any direction the angle or orientation of that angle is wrong. You can check this using a digital level by zeroing or referencing the subframe mounts. 
     
    Will it drive down the street if wrong? Sure. But your suspension characteristics will change from factory spec which could lead to increased wear on components and unsafe handling traits. 
    Thank you btw answered a ton of questions and confusion


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    • Like 1
  4. The dimensions found on this forum are pretty much good with one exception, the angle of the strut spacers and the orientation of that angle. 
     
    Basically, your strut spacer tube should be straight up and down (perpendicular & parallel) in relation to the trucks subframe mounting points. The angle will be the same no matter what height you choose to make your lift. Just like the subframe blocks only give vertical change, the goal is to "translate" the compound angle of the strut mounting point straight down so when you are done the factory suspension geomterty will be retained.
     
    The posted prints on this site and elsewhere on the web show 8.5 degrees which is wrong. Most R50's will have anywhere from 10.4 to 12.0 degrees. There is some wiggle room so it doesnt need to be exact, but too much error on the strut spacers could result in your caster being out of spec which cannot be changed and camber being off, requiring camber bolts to correct the offset.
     
    Again, your strut tube should be square to the subframe mounts when you're done. If they look like they're leaning in any direction the angle or orientation of that angle is wrong. You can check this using a digital level by zeroing or referencing the subframe mounts. 
     
    Will it drive down the street if wrong? Sure. But your suspension characteristics will change from factory spec which could lead to increased wear on components and unsafe handling traits. 
    Will definitely look into it more before I start


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  5.  
    Link isn't working because krfabs stopped making them quite some time ago.  As far as I know, nobody is making a kit right now, and there is some conflicting info as to what the correct measurements are if you want to make one yourself.  If you're dead-set on having one and are willing to make it yourself or have a shop build you one, I'd send somebody like Hawairish or TowndawgR50 a message and see if they can help you out with dimensions.
    Well that sucks but since I'm putting 33s on mine I probably should

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  6. I got a set of KYB gas-a-just shocks for the rear of my 2003 SE and it's holding up decently in forest service road conditions. I got em off RockAuto for pretty cheap (rn they are 40 USD per).
     
    Addendum: Mind you I'm not sure KYB gas-a-just shocks are best if you plan on getting lifting coils, they might bottom out in dips or pot holes.
    Do you have a part number?


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  7.  
    No problem, the forum's a learning tool after all!
     
    Now, hopefully somebody can help the OP figure out his issue!  Fortunately my 3.5L always ran perfect other than a few heat issues (burped coolant and good to go), so I don't really know anything about the engines.  I guess start with simple stuff, is the fuel filter totally clogged up?  Does it have plenty of gas?  Are the spark plugs completely toast?  How's the battery?  Any warning lights or codes, and issues you noticed before this?


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