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Posts posted by KiwiTerrano

  1. Well, truck is ticking along nicely. Have fitted a set of rock sliders and extended upper ball joints. Front flex is better and no more bangs from the upper arm hitting the tower. Have left out he rear sway bar, honestly can't tell the difference onroad but it's much better off. Have done a few more trips with the club, she's pretty good.

    Next mods will be PSR rear subframe spacer kit and a rear locker.

  2. Well, vehicle has been performing well. Went into the St James conservation area with the club to marshal the multisport event held there annually. Developed a bit of a clunk halfway through the weekend that then went away again. Didn't think much of it at the time.


    Went to install my new sliders today and my mate mentioned that the rear sway bar looked a bit off. Turned out that I had completely destroyed the right rear endlink and snapped one of the bolts holding the right swaybar bracket on, allowing the bracket to bend and the bar to move about. Thankfully no collateral damage. The right swaybar endlink had completely lost the middle section leaving me with just two ball headed bolts sticking out of the mounts!


    Was a right PITA to get the swaybar out though. I needed every Nm of my impact wrench to get the endlinks off on both sides. Not to mention getting an open ended wrench in behind the mounts is bloody tight. 13 years of coastal Otago salt (when it lived in Dunedin with my old man) were not kind to the endlinks. I have real sympathy for those who live in the US with road salt as mine wasn't bad by comparison.


    Needless to say, it's not going back on unless the WOF guy pulls me up on it (and even then, I'll be throwing the swaybar and some new endlinks at him and telling him to fit it himself).

    Took it for a spin and can't notice the difference to be honest. My old terrano with 11" shocks, now that was quite different with no RSB...


    Sometimes I feel that the r51 just wasn't as well engineered as the earlier Nissans.

  3. On 12/3/2020 at 7:39 AM, mjotrainbrain said:

    That red Defender in the last pic is sweet! Your rig is coming along really nicely too, do you have other skidplate protection under the vehicle too?

    Thanks, there's some unique vehicles in the land rover club that's for sure! One day hopefully I'll have enough cash for one. They're not cheap to buy (or run lol).

    I've got a 6 mm steel treadplate skidplate under the sump. Have also got a fair bit more lying around to make a trans/transfer skid with. I just needed a better front plate to protect the radiator and trans cooler as the factory one is crap.

    • Like 1
  4. On 11/20/2020 at 1:20 PM, PathyGig12 said:

    Yes sir, they fit perfectly fine without any spacers. The fact that they are only 9.5 wide means they can clear the struts easily, and I don’t have any rubbing because I removed the mud flaps and trimmed a little bit of the plastic in the fender wells. In the future I’ll probably upgrade to a set of 33”s that are full width. I love these tires on dirt and rock but they don’t float over snow as well as a wider set would. In deep powder I’ve noticed they can get kind of lost. I also prefer a “stanced” look, so wider would be nice

    I wonder if a 255/85r16 would fit

  5. Agreed. If it blew a head gasket, it must have gotten hot? Therefore I would focus on cooling system maintenance.


    Depending on mileage, you could also replace the water pump whilst you have the timing gear off as that requires removal of timing chain to do. Definitely completely replace all the timing gear.


    I would also check or replace the thermostat, and remove the radiator and wash it out from the back side to remove debris from the fins, and give it a good internal flushing too.


    While you're there, replace the entire belt drive system - all pulleys, belt and tensioner. Ensure the belt is the correct length as these vehicles are quite sensitive to the wrong length belt and/or a bad tensioner. Could also replace the viscous fan hub too while you're there.


    Definitely bypass the in-radiator trans lines and fit an external cooler. Will help your vehicle run cooler on a hot day.


    Could replace the cam sensors too if you're really keen as they're another failure point.


    Ensure you have bled the system properly - surprisingly difficult due to the rear heater setup.


    In terms of performance mods, I find the VQ40 to have quite acceptable performance in standard trim. You could replace the spark plugs too, as they require removing the intake manifold to do so may as well kill that bird since you've got it apart.

  6. I would also recommend upgrading suspension. I run 35 mm King lift springs, standard rate, with Bilstein dampers. Very good all round package.

    King springs can be bought cheaply off Ebay.

    Bilstein shocks can be bought for a very good price off Rockauto.com

    I use Rockauto to source almost all of my parts.



    • Like 1
  7. The R51 is pretty reliable.

    My main recommendation would be to bypass the in radiator transmission lines. I've done this with mine. Took about ten minutes to reroute the trans fluid lines to bypass the radiator and only run through the factory external trans cooler.

    If yours doesn't have an external trans cooler I would also recommend fitting one at the same time.

    I believe both the petrol and diesel engines used have timing chains not belts so shouldn't hav any problems there. Just use high quality oil and service religiously.


    When purchasing any secondhand vehicle I always like to get all the fluids changed (coolant, brakes, diffs, gearbox and transfer) to ensure I know exactly what's in there. Personally I run Penrite oils in my r51.

    The penrite ATF covers both Nismatic D and J standards. The transfer case takes D standard ATF and the trans takes J standard.


    Other than requiring a couple of O2 sensors and catalytic converters, and one exhaust manifold cracking, my r51 VQ40DE has been totally reliable from brand new (my father bought it new in 2007) to its current 200,000 kms.


    A lot of what you hear online is disgruntled owners who've had problems. When maintained properly a Japanese vehicle should be very reliable.

    • Like 2
  8. On 10/16/2020 at 5:14 AM, MY1PATH said:

    This is wrong, I have r33 GTR transfer case (ATTESA) in the garage.
    It uses a clutch pack in a basket/drum similar to a motorcycle clutch. A transfer case chain similar to the Pathfinders TX10 chain is attached to a basket/drum around the rear output shaft. The alternating clutch plates transfer torque from the rear output to the chain which then turns the front driveshaft. Instead of a clutch spring, an electric pump pressurizes a hydraulic system to apply pressure against the the clutch pack, its literally just a hydraulic piston. A PWM solenoid valve on the return line regulates the system pressure from 20~200 psi and this is controlled by the ATTESA computer.

    While ATTESA is an AWD system, it is a transferase system (not a center differential). The rear wheels are always powered regardless of how much torque is sent to the front wheels.
    In a transfer case system, if you stop the permanently driven wheels then everything stops.
    But in a center diff system, if you stop ANY pair of wheels the other pair will continue to spin.




    That's exactly what I said...

  9. 5 hours ago, colinnwn said:

    Could you tell if the system engaged the front drive shaft? Or was it smart enough to know the speed difference between the front wheels and front drive shaft was too high and did nothing?

    I think some of the people who reported problems were actually QX4s. I wonder if the system is any different.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

    The ATTESA 4wd system uses a small torque converter with a lockup clutch to split power to the front wheels. Therefore, the maximum torque split to the front is 50%. The rear end is always directly and mechanically driven, so even if you accidentally stick it in AUTO with the front hubs unlocked you won't notice any loss of drive. It may damaged the transfer if you left it in for too long though.


    When in low range, there is a locking spline inserted that mechanically locks the transfer into a 50:50 torque split. So if you're in low box already, even if all the electrics crap out you're still mechanically centre locked and in low box. Trouble might be disengaging it...


    Personally I've never had any troubles with the 4-mode system in either my r50 or r51 Pathies. My R50 was the older design with the dial for 2wd auto and lock, and the lever for low box though.


    The QX4 is mechanically identical.

    • Like 1
  10. On 8/18/2020 at 8:06 AM, SDThex said:

    Thanks for the input guys. That truck sold about 30 minutes before I left work unfortunately. The question about suspension came from me seeing a few models branded "urban", which sounded pretty un-promising!



    I've heard bad things about the QD32 Injector pumps - $1800+ to get them rebuilt? I can do most things myself, but I'd still like to avoid that! I didn't know that a jerk taking off was a symptom, cheers. 


    Thanks for the tip on the tyre size too.

    The urban model is just a trim spec. I believe they're still 4wd. Some of them are manuals too, although the manual only came with the TD27. Difficult to manual swap a turbo QD32ETI Terrano as unlike NA QD32s and all TD27s, they had a 7 bolt flywheel not a 6 bolt. IDK why, guess it's the higher torque figure.

  11. 200,000 km service today.

    Spark plugs replaced

    Oil and filter

    Transfer case drained and refilled

    New front struts (Bilstein 5100 with adjustable perch). Old shocks were OEM which at 200 thou were pretty stuffed and not up to it with the bullbar on.

    Rear shocks were replaced when the lift springs went in 50,000 kms ago.




    I will also need to fit extended upper ball joints (available from PSR in aussie) as that upper angle is bad...


    • Like 1
  12. The bilsteins can be mounted upside down to suit pre vs post facelift. Nissan swapped the upper and lower mounts over halfway through the production run. Being a monotube shock, the bilstein can be run inverted with no problems. On the pre facelift, it is advisable to run it inverted with the body at the too to avoid the pan hard bar end hitting the shock body. I ran procomp shocks, which you couldn't invert, and had that problem.

  13. Fitted up my 33" spare - 255/75r17 to match my 255/85r16 tyres. Also a BFG MT.

    Only JUST fitted - very tight. Had to let it down to about 4 PSI. Would have gone in more easily if the towbar was just a little further out. I think my bar must differ from US spec ones as some here have fitted 33" spares no worries.


    In case you're wondering, the factory Nissan towbar is incredibly strong. I broke a Toyota towbar in half at the tongue weld when doing a moderate recovery with an 8 ton snatch strap... and yes, I removed the ball and replaced it with a shackle.




    Also went on a fun evening trip with the Land Rover club down at the Ashley River. 18 vehicles. I was the only Nissan. Lots of slippery mud and a few nice off camber bits and ruts.


    • Like 3

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