Thunderbolt
-
Posts
130 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Thunderbolt
-
-
Looks great!!! Now I wish that would have step it up to 35"s, your next project should be is 4.6's gears.. Good mod for 33"s or bigger.
-
I haven't been out in the Ouray area for a couple of years, so I don't know how the trail condition are out there lately, but you can possibly do most of the trails out there with your Rig.. but depending on expericance, if you havent wheel much, stay off Black Bear Pass! it's not a biggie in my book, but there a couple of spots you really need pay attention and not be afraid of heights, also can't be a hero on the switch backs on the down side of Bridal falls(continuse turning)... people have rolled of the that section, due to soft shoulder ... But if you want to take the scenic way go to Teleuride by highway and the take Imogene back to Ouray, I did it back when my Pathy just had All terrains, that is a very beutiful trail.and on the other side of hwy550 or the million dollars hwy is the Corkscrew Gulch in which is fun and connects to a bunch of other trails. Make sure to all the off roading books with you and get a good map of the local area is a plus. Man.. I miss it out there so much.
Awesome!! I'd love to hit some trails with you guys, I live out in Pueblo West..My girl and I are heading out to Durango this Friday for a three day weekend. We are going to do some passes up near Telluride!
If you have any suggestions for me in that area, LMK. I know of a bunch of the passes, but haven't been on any yet.FYI, I am at stock suspension, and just put some Cragar Soft 8's on with 31's. Just little rubbing at full-lock.
-
You need to plan a trip up hear next year, maybe around May when possibly do a trip to Moab or come out hear in August and maybe do a Ouray /Teleuride trip.
Awesome pics and vids as always guys! I wish there were cool places to take trips to in Texas but there really isnt.
-
You need to plan a trip up hear next year, maybe around May when possibly do a trip to Moab or come out hear in August and maybe do a Ouray Teleuride trip.
Awesome pics and vids as always guys! I wish there were cool places to take trips to in Texas but there really isnt.
-
Here's the link to the rest of the photos
http://s670.photobucket.com/albums/vv61/drowe1169/Buena%20Vista/
-
Heres Rick going up the first part of Grizzly Creek trail,
-
Heres are some that were Near Mt, Princeston
The town of Buena Vista below
-
Here's on the way to the top of Mt. Antero
Near the top at 13840ft of elevation according to the Gps.
Theses pictures were taking near a mine
Here on the toward the top of Mt. Princeton
-
Finally after all this time with the vibration.. it ended up be the motor mounts. My driver side came apart in 2 pieces and I still need to replace the passenger side. But so far back to normal.
David
-
You should have also replace the lower ball joint while you there.
That is diffidently the best way of doing the replacement for either of them.David
-
Don't get the napa ones, I decided to try the $20 ones and completely smoke within a month and half. If you are going to do this and save yourself the time and headache of replacing them get either the Nissan ( which the Toyota guys been getting the manufacturing ones, because of the problems with the aftermarket ones.) or Moogs, which I have had on for a little over a year and still fine.
David
-
I'm on the same page with a vibration when in 4WD. Coming back from Breckenridge after a baller day of skiing, I put it in HI for the short trip through some wet mountain roads. Under acceleration there was quite a vibration, when I let off it was gone. After I put it in 2 it was gone. That being said however, I do have some lesser vibration at 50 and again around 70-80 whenever I drive it in 2WD. I assumed off the bat it was worn U-joints in the driveshaft, and I think this may be the root of the cause. My alignment *seems* fairly straight with no significant pulling or uneven tire wear. BTW I am running on stock tire size and stock (albiet worn) suspension.
Any suggestions? I don't mean to take from your thread *Thunderbolt, however it is along the same lines so I hoped to get some answers here. Thanks everyone! And I hope your problem gets solved soon too man!
I would try replacing the U joints, that seems to fix most people problems, this weekend a buddy and I will see if we can figure out what is going on with my truck and when that's figure out, I'll definitely let everybody know. I also see that you also live in Colorado, need come up here sometime and do some Wheeling. Some time in the near future we go to China Wall that is near Woodland area, I'll let you know when that happens.
David
-
Ok.. I have a brand new CV axles on one side and swap the other side with mine spare, because the orignal one boot need to be replace . I've broken an axle on the trail before and recommend having a spare and the are sementrical. I havent replace the rear one's yet, planning on it in the very near future. Replacing the motor mounts wouldn't be that hard, loosen the sfd motor mount bolts to the brackets and then put a block of wood on a jack and put it under the oil pan(block of wood to protect the oil pan) and lift it until you can remove the brackets and get the rest of the motor mounts.
David
-
I want thank Steve for the part # for the U joints. Last weekend I finally replace the u joint on her and still have the same problem,
I'm thinking either it's the transmission mount and possibly the motor mount might part of it or something is broke in the front differential. This problem only happens in 4wd under load at any speeds and go away when letting of the accelertor.David
-
Okay so now I have another question. If yall think that the spacers being the extra height wont hurt it....wont that mean that the suspension will technically be higher up which means it will top out alot more often? I have the camber bolts but in the pic I will post below, they are adjusted to their MAX. Would maybe trying to adjust the tie rods help. Rick, do you have a front shot of your truck with how its aligned right now? Im guessing yall didnt mess with the tie rods.
The extra height in the strut spacer has nothing to do with the topping out, that has to do with the springs in the struts, besides you have warn hubs to save the cv axles any way and we didn't messed with the tie rods, also I would just take it in for a alignment and later if the strut top that Alex made is bugging you, then buy Shift220 strut tops, since he took the time to get it closer on the specs for our Rigs.
-
You'll be fine with those struts spacer as long that you have the after market camber bolts, mine are built the same way and I don't have any problems with mine set up and the extra 1/2 inch isn't going make that big of a deal, there was something where they couldn't get it dial right on with the alignment and for the life of me couldn't remember what it was, but my tires have been wearing fine for me unfortunately
because I want the new Goodyear wrangler in 33", *** BFG's just wont wear out 
Okay so a little update. We fixed the steering issue and it works great now, no binding or anything. We were unable though to fix the strut spacers. The spacers that I got with my 4in sfd kit measured 4 1/2 inches tall. I think that dumbass alex who made them, cut the tube part perfect at 4inches, but forgot about the two pieces of 1/4 flange that made the spacer 4 1/2 inches tall. His spacers were also straight and level. When you put the spacer on level ground and put a level on top its dead level. I believe this is wrong, and that the spacers need some kind of angle to keep the alignment and camber in check. We made new flanges and have tubing around the shop. My question is does anybody know the angle? Like is one side level and the other angled? Anyone have pics at all? Im in a bind cause I dont want to drive how its setup now, and its in the school ag shop parked where there are classes during the week and I dont want people messing with my truck in there. Any help would be great. Its amazing how helpful yall have been so far, people I have never met are really saving my life on this, and words cannot express my gratitude towards yall, I applaud all who have stepped up or tried to help me.
Sorry for any typos, I have been working on this lift with buddy for 31 hours since friday and im tired and have class at 9 so yeah its been a rough weekend, hopefully it will be worth it in the end
-
Okay so we quit working around 3. We got all the block mounted on the body side all we need to do is raise up the sub frame and bolt it together. We have had an issue with the steering joint and will have to modify it quite heavily to get it to work, but we have plan for tomorrow. We managed to strip out one of the LCA bolts but a new one will be had tomorrow thats no biggie. Here is a pic of how we left her for the night
Right on, I'm glad to see that you're finally getting it done after all the B.S that you were put threw in getting that kit together. I think next year we should all go to Gone (gathering of the Nissan enthusiast) in Moab. I would love to see all the Xterra guys looks on their face when 3 SFD Nissan Pathfinders show up and hopefully more, Also, if you're going 35", I would think that would be a little to much for the rack and pinion. I think that is why T4morgan went with that fancy-er steering set up.
David
-
I would get a can of MAF cleaner or electrical cleaner and see if that works and if you are using a K&N filter... scrap it. The oil off the filter is messing up the sensors in the maf.
-
Looks good!
What are you running up front for coils?
Using the Ac coils.
-
whoh.... 440lbs over stock on the rear.... This seems like a lot more stiff than AC...like more than double... I guess for those with a tire carrier it might help, but f you do not have any then it might be pretty bad in the trail no ??
I'm with Fleurys on this, I just had a set made for the rears and they came out to be 160lbs spring rate, so I would still have some off road flexibility. The spring on the our stock pathfinder are about 115, but 440lbs would even be to stiff for a Ford F-250. Here a picture with the 5.5 lift in the rear and my Rig is also been SFD.
-
David... If you still need a brake line I have the one off mine. I offered it to a guy on ronin but never heard from him. $20 is all I want. I can help with a panhard too if you need.
Tyler
That sounds good Tyler, I try to get of hold of you soon.
David
-
Awesome! Did you get them installed yet?
I started installing them about 10 minutes after they arrive on the door step and it looks sick
So, all I need to do is get a longer brake line made and see what to do about the pan hard.David
-
I thought to let everybody know that I just receive the rear coils and took exactly 5 weeks to show up at my door step when I order them. They how ever said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to complete and I thought this would help.
David
I tried gettign a quote and here is what I got out of it....
Hello Terry,
No it does not.
I would estimate shipping cost in the $30 to $40 range. I will not know the exact amount until the springs have been manufactured and weighted.
Thank you
Kevin ]
From: terryhenryjr@aol.com [mailto:terryhenryjr@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 10:55 AM
To: info@coilsprings.com
Subject: Re: Quote Request: terry henry
Does that price include shipping?
-----Original Message-----
From: Coil Springs Info <info@coilsprings.com>
To: terryhenryjr@aol.com
Sent: Mon, Jan 18, 2010 11:48 am
Subject: RE: Quote Request: terry henry
Hello Terry,
I apologize for the misunderstanding. When you said four, I thought you were meaning front and rear coils springs.
Rear – coil springs - +6.00" lift & 160#/in spring rate.
Pricing: 2 pair @ 248.40pr
Thank you
Kevin
From: terryhenryjr@aol.com [mailto:terryhenryjr@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 10:34 AM
To: info@coilsprings.com
Subject: Re: Quote Request: terry henry
I do not need front springs, a friend of mine is doing the same lift and might need the same springs, so what is the price for 4 and what is the price for 2? The $298.60 does that include shipping and for both springs?
-----Original Message-----
From: Coil Springs Info <info@coilsprings.com>
To: terryhenryjr@aol.com
Sent: Mon, Jan 18, 2010 11:22 am
Subject: RE: Quote Request: terry henry
Hello Terry,
1999 Nissan Pathfinder
Front – coil springs - +6.00" lift & ????#/in spring rate
Pricing: estimate: $ 276.40 pr
Rear – coil springs - +6.00" lift & 160#/in spring rate.
Pricing: $ 268.20 pr
What coil spring rate do you require for the front coils?
Thank you and I await your response to proceed.
Kevin
Coil Spring Specialties
From: terryhenryjr@aol.com [mailto:terryhenryjr@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 10:12 AM
To: info@coilsprings.com
Subject: Re: Quote Request: terry henry
This vehicle is my daily driver with a 2" suspension l;ift and 4" subframe drop so I need custom springs made, its not a rock crawler and it is a straight axle with a 4link rear. The $298.60 does that include shipping and for both springs? What kind of deal could I get if I ordered 4?
-----Original Message-----
From: Coil Springs Info <info@coilsprings.com>
To: terryhenryjr@aol.com
Sent: Mon, Jan 18, 2010 10:48 am
Subject: RE: Quote Request: terry henry
Hello Terry,
1999 Nissan Pathfinder
Rear – coil springs - +6.00" lift & 160#/in spring rate.
Pricing: $ 298.60 pr
Is the vehicle being used as rock crawler?
Is the rear suspension – straight axle on this vehicle?
Thank you and I await your response to proceed.
Kevin
Coil Spring Specialties
Thats good, glad you got everything fiugured out; I actually called in this morning to coil springs and my order is still being made. For reference my order number is 1872; in case anyone else wanted to get the same springs. Glad to hear you got everyhting straigtened out.
-
I was wondering what people have done for the brake line when doing the SFD, for instance when I did the front I just zip lock the line and made sure that there wasn't any interference what so ever with the line. but for right know, my question is what to do about the rear brake line when I get ready to install my new spring. Does anyone know a web site where to buy the line or what the size needs to be. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
David
If you are thinking about 15 inch wheels, read this.
in R50 FAQ's & Pinned Topics
Posted
As of right now on mine 01 I've put on atleast 50000 miles with the 15" wheels and never have had a problem and yes it is a close gap between the caliper and rim,