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gamellott

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Posts posted by gamellott

  1. 16 hours ago, adamzan said:

    Yeah... Seems like normal parts for tune ups, brakes, etc are easy to get but god forbid you want your parking brake to work. You can't even get the parts for the rear disk parking brake setup anymore.

    I got my parking brake cables from Amayama. Took a while, but it was worth it.

  2. This is totally off of the original topic..... The "Interlock" switch is on the right hand side, which is on the same side as the ignition switch. Kinda hard to hold at the same time as you're turning the key. I don't know how I figured out how it worked because I don't have a Factory owners manual. I don't think it has ever not started, except when the battery was dead.

     

    The process of starting and using the interlock switch is, at least on my rig:

     

    1. Check the vehicle in neutral. Wiggle the stick out of gear.

    2. Depress the interlock switch.

    3. Turn the ignition switch to start.

     

    I'm not sure why they did it, but it's there. It does bypass the clutch interlock, of which, if broken, will make it difficult to start. I found that out on my 95 D21 that didn't have the interlock switch. I suspect that they don't put that switch on there anymore is because people are stoopid and start it in gear without depressing the clutch, and drive into things.... I answered my own question there.... Hmph....

  3. Yes, fusible links serve some kind of purpose and are slow blow. I burned one up when I crossed the terminals when trying to jump start a vehicle. It caused other problems, but that was 30some years ago and I don't remember everything I destroyed in the process.

     

    What I really have noticed in everything that has fusible links, is that they typically get corroded over the years from exposure to battery acid. Just me? I don't know, but they are certainly a nuisance over time. Which is why I am a fan of sealed cell batteries!!!

  4. The very end of the first video I heard what sounded like a lifter. Everything prior to that was just some kind of bad muffled noises, which I don't think is telling of anything. Some things are better identified in person.

     

    Other observations from the acceleration video; What is the red light on the bottom of the dash? I'm not familiar with that. Also, Take a look at the tach, it doesn't appear to move past 2. 

     

    The price seems reasonable. I spent that much on mine almost 10 years ago.

     

  5. Spark to the distributor from the coil is progress. Not getting it out to the wires and plugs, means that there is something going on with the cap, rotor and/or wires, not the whole distributor. The distributor is a mostly dumb device that simply times the engine rotation to the spark and sends the spark to the appropriate cylinder as it rotates, through the cap, rotor and wires. 

  6. I would look at the rubber bump stops and see if you can adjust them to allow it to latch. My latch was bent out of shape somehow and I picked up a newer mechanism at a Junk Yard years ago and just installed it and it works perfectly. You probably have some misalignment that isn't too obvious, or you could have some bent or broken parts in the latch from the rear-ending.

  7. I think the best thing you can do, and cheapest, is to fix what you have unless you have something like a wiped crank from lack of oil. There are VG33 swaps that you can do, and some that bolt right in with little to no changes, but you must first find a donor. There are threads somewhere in here that discuss that. None of these options are cheap cheap. Maintaining a 30yo vehicle never is. I think I spent close to $700 when I went through the top end because of a bad head gasket (Between Gaskets, Seals, Machining, etc...). Certainly cheaper than a vehicle payment. It really all depends on your budget, your capabilities/resources, and if you should keep hanging on to this vehicle. Some things aren't worth the powder to blow them up.

  8. My rig would occasionally make that exact sound on start up. When I replaced the head gaskets, I found one lifter had a cleaved face on it, so I replaced it. Since then, the sound has not recurred. 

     

    My bet, if you tear it down to the valve covers, you'll find a smoking gun there with the noise. A bad rod bearing is more of a knock

     

    As far as backfiring, it would make sense to me that you probably have an injector issue. I had a slight misfire for the longest time, mostly audible at the tailpipe more than anywhere else. Eventually, the culprits outright failed. After replacing the failed injectors, the misfire completely went away and some amount of power was gained in the process. 

     

    If you can identify a possible single failed/failing injector, the perfect time to replace it would be when the upper intake is off. 

    • Like 1
  9. On 3/16/2023 at 3:46 PM, Frenchy said:

    The washers for the tension rod come with new bushings, so your statement wont apply there. Also hardware from the scrap yard will most likely ve worn out enough where it wont lock in place.

    Last time I bought the bushings, they didn't come with new washers. May have been a difference in manufacturer? I don't know. Also lost a nut and a washer (Maybe I didn't torque it enough? I don't know). Had to do this exact re-inventing of the wheel in order to get it reassembled. A washer that's nearly 3 inches in diameter and 3/16" thick worn out? Typically not, unless you have some other kind of problem, like salt on the road and a corrosive environment. 

  10. Yes, we have Tacoma Screw here, which is where I went to find replacement hardware for the engine when I screwed up the cam bolts (Dimensionally correct, head original size was 14mm with a flare at the bottom, replacement was 16-17mm, no flare on the bottom).  They Might have something like this, But I will revert to my previous answer, If you want to find something matching the original dimensions, shoulder/locking properties, you're better off going to the salvage yard. The washer behind that nut, is flared especially different, and you won't likely find that anywhere else aside from the Dealer or a salvage yard.

  11. 10 minutes ago, Slartibartfast said:

    You won't know how bad it is (or isn't) until you get that tape off. 

    Agreed.

     

    I'm not a paid mechanic, but I have seen some pretty sketchy @!*% passed off as legit. If the wires are black and oxidized, that's the culprit!

  12. That's a hot mess with creative wiring. I don't know what the additional power, grounds, and relays are for... Willy Nilly... wires!!!! 

     

    There appears to be a white connector with red wires under the negative post that looks to go into a bundle wrapped in electrical tape that leads to the positive side of the battery. There should be 2 connectors. One with all red wires, one with all green (Well, that's how mine is) that also goes to the positive side of the battery. That looks to be part of it.... I'd look around there. they should be in the same wire bundle unless someone did some more creative wiring.....

     

    I wonder if the mechanic connected the green wires to the ground, since green is ground in home electrical??? 

  13. Take it as bad advice or not, I have been doing this for a while, but I have never followed the recommended intervals for changing oil. Especially if you're dealing with time variable. The properties of the oil didn't change over the course of 24 months if you didn't put squat on it for miles unless you have some kind of contaminant in the oil. If you're dunking the rear end in a lake because you're towing a boat, or going through low water crossings routinely, You might want to change or inspect more frequently.

     

    For a while now, I have been simply topping off some of the fluids because it leaks from A, B, or C. There are a few exceptions where you might want to be a little more diligent, but the auto manufacturers have always been pretty liberal on how frequently you should change the fluids. 

     

    The rear differential with an LSD might be a different story and require a bit more attention if you're putting a lot of miles on it. Mine does chatter, but the rig is also 31 yearl old and has 315K miles on it and I'm pretty sure everything in there is original, or at least it was when I got it... I changed the fluid when I replaced the pinion seal 9 years ago because it was leaking. Now I have a leaking rear wheel seal and the fluid will get changed after I get that done as well because the bearing grease has probably contaminated the oil.

     

    As mentioned, a roof top carrier isn't adding much to the load. It probably matters more if you're pushing the load capacity of the vehicle when you're driving it, rather than just the carrier alone.

     

     

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