onespiritbrain
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Posts posted by onespiritbrain
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Wow I’m searching for banged up VQ’s effective immediately.
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Burrrmp
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They all do that if you’re not fast enough going from hi to lo and vice versa. The output shaft on the transmission spins even in neutral if there’s no resistance (ie the transfer case disconnects the rest of the drive train behind the transmission completely when you go from hi/lo to lo/hi). You have to be quick with the movement. Why doesn’t it say that in the manual...?
I bet someone smarter could explain exactly why the output shaft spins in neutral.
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I’ve got the puny stock atl and when the defrost is on I can feel the difference between low and full blower settings. Haha
The windshield wipers move quite slow as well until I’m over 1500-1700rpm. I can’t use the 100watt fog lights I got at all or it’s even worse.
Everything is fine cruising at 70mph (2600rpm) but sitting or even riding trails is a concern and I will be looking for a Quest alt next trip to the JY.
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Wow and I thought I was hardcore haha
Are you going to bring it back to life? -
Agreed
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Nice! The electric fan upgrade was a major improvement as far as trust goes but I feel like I actually have less power than with the thermal clutch. I should clarify, I have less power when the AC is on due to the extra draw on the alternator and possibly a little bit more power when everything is off.
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Got me a key fob!
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Hmmmm.. well the cam springing forward under the tension of the valve springs should not be strong enough to bend anything. Id honestly be surprised if you were able to bend a valve unless you were turning the cam sprocket with a long ratchet. It sounds more like the belt is a tooth or two off. Ive heard here about people being off a tooth and having similar problems but the knocking has me thinking its off more than one tooth.
Id pop that timing cover off real quick and count the teeth on the belt between each sprocket dimple mark.
The passenger cam sprocket dimple mark is around 11 o'clock and the driver cam sprocket dimple mark is around 1 o'clock, while the crank sprocket dimple mark is around 5 o'clock. Pop the belt on and keep it taut in the middle between the two cam sprockets and also keep it taut between the driver cam and the crank. The belt can be as loose as needed between the crank and passenger cam but it helps to have some tension in that area or the belt tries to jump off the passenger cam while you are trying to get the tooth count right.
So with the belt on and the cam and crank sprocket dimple marks pretty close to the 11, 1, and 5 o'clock positions count the teeth (peaks) on the belt between the passenger cam sprocket dimple mark and the driver cam sprocket dimple mark. There should be 40 teeth (peaks). If you've got more (or less) than 40 teeth then move the driver cam just a little bit until you count 40 teeth between the two dimples.
Then count the teeth between the driver cam sprocket dimple and the crank sprocket dimple. You should have 43 teeth. If you have more (or less) than 43 teeth then CAREFULLY and gently turn the crank the tiny amount you need to achieve 43 teeth.
Once you have your tooth count 100% confirmed then set the tension and rotate the engine several times by hand before buttoning everything back up.
I have tried using alignment marks on timing belts for my VG33 and have never been able to make everything line up perfectly. Its always a tooth or half a tooth off when comparing the marks on the sprockets to the marks on the rear timing cover. I found the tooth counting method and it has worked flawlessly 3 times on my QX4 (one 100k mile service, one engine swap, and one head gasket job). It has also worked on my wife's GX470 thats waaaaay scarier and legitimately harder to work on than my QX4.
The stupid alignment marks and LH cam(which is actually right hand from where you work) RH cam(which is actually left hand from where you’re working) labeling is too confusing for me to confidently work around/with. I about lost my marbles trying to do my wife's timing belt and the #&$@ sprockets are labeled backwards. Like why couldn't they call them D(river)C(am) and P(assenger)C(am)??? /endrant
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Which head is it coming from?
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Replaced TPS with a brand new OEM part.
My trans kept locking/unlocking so I would jam the gas peddle a bunch of times as quickly as I could, then it’d stop for a few months. One time I cut the car off out of anger and jammed the gas peddle a bunch. I had been thinking that jamming the gas peddle at the time the issue was occurring was what would make it go away. So I started it back up but the issue was gone. It returned in a month or so just like it had been and then I thought that maybe the TPS wiper had a build up of copper particles on it causing intermittent signals to lock/unlock the torque converter. I figure over time the contacts have been worn down by the wiper or the wiper itself is worn down and the particles are building up along the path of the wiper, specifically the contact area where the throttle stays in most often which would be highway cruising.
The only thing that could possibly have anything to do with the transmission by hitting the gas peddle with the car off is that TPS!
Right off the bat the 1 to 2 shift is very noticeably softer.. and the 2 to 3 shift seems to be faster at low acceleration. That TPS may have been bad for some time. Of course my other transmission didn’t have a single issue whatsoever with this same TPS.
Update:
The improvements listed above are definitely there. I also notice that it no longer stays in 3rd gear when taking off from a rolling stop which would cause very poor acceleration.
In general, the vehicle drives much better. I am still a little slow taking off from red lights and such compared to newer cars around me but there are a lot of instances where I have the power I need to drive normally with traffic because the transmission selects the correct gear for acceleration.
A heap of confidence has returned!
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That is strange. So park does engage? And every other shifter position acts like neutral? Are there any noises at all? It’s hard to imagine what could cause forward and reverse to both die.
I’ll look in the FSM for mine to see if there is a condition detailing the loss of both forward and reverse. Give me till tomorrow.
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this right here is computer background worthy
I must agree. @02_Pathy What kind of camera are you using?
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Great starting point with that low mileage 2004! I’m jealous and will be watching closely to your build.
Welcome welcome!
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woah we just said the same thing at the same time!
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Have you tried putting jacks on all four corners and running it up to highway speeds? Its obviously dangerous and you'd better be incredibly careful but you could lay a hand on some of the components to see if you can feel the droning with your hands.
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Mine has play at the transfer case also. I thought something in my diff was bad for sure not long ago and it was actually my tires; Cooper Discovery AT3 XLT with low pressure.
If something in the diff is worn out bad enough to howl, would the diff case get hot? Maybe he could diagnose it that way if so.
What about wheel bearings?
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Wow!
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crawl of shame
Lol wordFor the harmonic balancer, I have a pair of 6mm 1.00 thread bolts that are about 70 mm long that I picked up somewhere. If a local hardware store can't help, there is always online ordering.
And when you get it off tap M8 threads into the balancer. Why in creation did they put itty bitty M6 threads?? Maybe more threads per length or something.. I had to cut M6 fine threads onto some standard bolts that came with my puller. I had forgotten about that, and about how super stuck the balancer was on the shaft, and how the woodruff key was almost completely gone.
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Good looking tires
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I was getting the code, and ended up just relocating it because it’s a PITA for just a sensor
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Same
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Took advantage of the first snow of the year in North GA and headed to the hills.
Where’d you go??
I was stuck doing my wife’s timing belt (good luck [mention=39321]mjotrainbrain[/mention] the 2UZFE timing belt job SUCKS) and didn’t even get to throw a snow ball. Worst snow day ever.. I really really wanted to go to Charlie’s Creek.
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My 2001 Pathy Build
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Definitely looks like less rake with the bumper on.
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