Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by johnjohndoe

  1. I can vouch for this statement. Don't buy the $99 scissor style trans jack from harbor freight. My knee got to see exactly how heavy the trans/tc assembly is when it slid off that thing at about 12" off the ground. OUCH! Renting a huge tractor trans jack is the way to go.. cost me $27. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Forgot the most important one: Put it in D and without releasing the brake press the accelerator. Does the trans disengage in this condition? At what RPM does the engine stop increasing at, with accelerator on the floor/at max and the brake fully engaged? Make sure you have your parking brake on and be careful not to let go of the brake with the trans under load, unless of course it is safe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Put it in D and allow the trans to creep to 1/2mph. Does pressing the brake at very low load cause the issue? Put it in D and take the trans thru 4th @55mph? Does pressing the brake at moderate load cause the issue? Put it in D and take the trans to a speed slow enough not to be dangerous, 35mph?, and @3500rpm or so and WHILE STILL ACCELERATING hit the brake. Does the brake disengage the trans at high load? Check the trans oil health. Fluid couplers are designed to operate with oil that is in a certain spec and very poor oil can cause your torque converter to malfunction. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. ...............you make me want lockers...
  5. So I was about to ask a question about my floor air flow not working but I figured I'd take a quick look at the FSM. The climate control unit has an awesome self diagnosis mode that I am really impressed with. My problem was simple enough that if I would've taken a quick look at the vent itself I would have seen it immediately but for someone with a more complicated issue the JR50 climate control self diagnosis mode is awesome. So here is what I found: Also when I first got my QX4 I got stuck in a VERY deep mud hole and flooded the interior. When I was trying to get the horrid smell of fecal smelling mud out, I left the tab areas of the carpet untucked which blocked the vents further. It should be noted that this is my first 4x4 vehicle and I just didn't think to get out and check how deep the assumed puddle was. Admittedly I made that mistake again but now I either get my butt out of the car and put a stick in it or I don't go in.
  6. Honestly guys I had a fair amount of trouble performing this maintenance. I started out to make a DIY guide but in my turmoil I missed lots of pictures. I will include what pictures I did take and give what advice I can offer. Start by removing negative connection at the batt terminal. Drain you radiator. (Sorry no pics..) a 5gal bucket will fit under there perfectly. There is a small black plastic plug on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. Remove the radiator cap first(WHILE COLD) and then remove the small plastic plug to drain. Take off the air intake from throttle body to air box top in one piece. Clamp Mass air flow Two hoses Out Remove obstructions to the timing covers Remove the radiator brackets shown here and one other on the other side. Remove upper radiator hose Remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator only (sorry no picture..) Remove the fan shroud screws shown here and one other on the other side. Removed the bottom section of the fan shroud. Good luck, I finally just slammed it around until it came loose. One of these clips in somewhere and if you squeeze it in the right place and pull a certain way it'll come loose. Once removed wiggle the upper portion of the shroud out. I cracked mine trying. I wanted to throw it out anyway after the lower portion troubles.. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/4982caeca28d2995f58b6f912c9ff95d.jpg You'll need to remove the transmission cooling lines at this point. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/b654f0341725548c90a5602065f9e711.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/8b1b2afaceb6205ad87ce54e97963831.jpg Zip ties worked great for me. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/9c9d723dc5db723172a3b203a0819134.jpg You can pull the radiator out easily now. The bottom is not bolted but sits in little slots. Have a cup of coffee http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/a8a405971598631d1d3dab50fc2de040.jpg Belts and tensioners http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/cfb8133fc65b83ef87100bb793d38f26.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/a2724206d7a0485a6285a294a9caa454.jpg Remove the thermal fan clutch assembly http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/04bc4944b8f008e26547b2e329d1079d.jpg Loosen the tensioner http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/71d681f804e1fd3249c4ed743e5a89a8.jpg Remove the tension by loosening this bolt http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/6816e3192026fa4a9c7464163b1f32e6.jpg Loosen this tensioner and it's bolt http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/a43cfa9cf89dfd122e27e549a423999b.jpg Now for this wonderful tensioner.. unfortunately I didn't snap a picture of the bolt you must loosen but if you've gotten this far then you are mechanically inclined enough to figure out which bolt must be loosened to allow for the tensioner bolt to release tension. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/da761d8d8e6ed8c68932df54a6e3d6a5.jpg I think this is a picture of that tensioner bolt. It's hard to reach and you'll do well to make this: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/e252a971defa3d30563137735d9192d8.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/03c9235ad3f8a0ffbea8c3188f90fadf.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/2904fd7effc2f4b1a195a6a0405718a2.jpg Awesome http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/96a2a7ae42fd96a1d0e3b70899626e5a.jpg Remove this piece, I think it was four bolts. Look closely at it because it is two pieces that come out as a whole. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/eccc62d363f25cfe3058b8ef153a8c57.jpg Removed and also the fan clutch pulley. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/d2475559d1c39eaef12c335eea70478d.jpg Remove this this piece. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/36130ac9a1a0a73ad7770d9094ed5492.jpg Removed Remove the hard pipe above the timing cover http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/4a01b2bb1a3c4dfc7d6756dd9af82b5d.jpg Remove this sensor from the pipe. It's bracket is made on to the hard pipe. I broke the thing.. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/0c4e1be2d3778a9af21fe59c39313959.jpg Remove all the bolts holding the hard pipe on, here's one of a few of them. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/354a955ab3d6095d76025cdb469a90c0.jpg Remove the soft rubber portion from the passenger and driver valve covers. Remove the timing covers So I missed a bunch of pictures here but you are basically following the perimeter of the upper timing cover and removing each bolt. The bolt head is 8mm. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/54c6a47cbbbd6a18d7ecb25def0473e2.jpg Layout the bolts in a way that you can remember which ones go where. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/d7fc7065233dffdda8f8a8dd0814245e.jpg I had to pry the CRAP out of the A/C line shown here. I had to pry so hard that it began releasing refrigerant at the compressor. You may want to consider removing this line. It will help you greatly later on since you'll have the option of removing your condenser coils so you can reach your harmonic balancer with an impact.. Alright so here is where my real troubles began. The next step after removing the upper timing cover is to remove your harmonic balancer. My crankshaft bolt and the balancer itself was seized up big as crap. DO NOT TRY TO CLAMP ANYTHING TO THE HARMONIC BALANCER! You will likely break the thing all to pieces. Take one of the old serpentine belts and use it like a strap wrench with a pair of vice grips. Works great. It you find that you can not hold the harmonic balancer due to seizing, use a long breaker and your socket. Brace the breaker against something sturdy on the driver side of the engine compartment and have someone turn the engine over with the ignition inside the vehicle. BE CAREFUL. I tried to brace it first with my strength and I almost got hurt.. Now use a bolt grip set with some M6x1.25(fine thread) bolts that are about 2.5in long to remove the harmonic balancer. You'll have to source these bolts. Lowes has these. I'd go to Fastenal or Threads for the South. DONT USE JAW PULLERS http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/64836710df36fbb1ec0820b1e8539608.jpg The timing belt http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/78eb236e48a72b11a125ff2c4f2273a6.jpg Finally! http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/d48ae2eb68467fa81b99c5f110a6a25b.jpg Replace the crankshaft bolt and turn the crank and cams until their timing indicator marks line up with the marks on the timing cover. I spun things clockwise. Get the passenger side cam lined up perfectly and if yours is like mine, the other marks will be off by half a tooth or almost a whole tooth. This is fine. Just get it as close as possible since it is for reference in case you spin a cam on accident with out the belt on so you have a chance to get it back where it's supposed to be. Okay here we go.. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170105/23b46999099ba2e68bdb6cc4635652d7.jpg Remove the tensioner(red arrow) and remove the old belt. Do your best not to turn the cams.. If you are going to replace the water pump then go ahead and do that now. So now loosely place the new belt on. Count the teeth between your alignment marks. Between the blue and green arrows you should have 40 teeth. Between the green and the yellow you should have 43 teeth. It's sort of difficult to get it right but as long as your passenger side cam timing mark is dead on you can move the other cam and crack SLIGHTLY to make fitting the new belt easier. Just make sure you have 40 teeth between the two cam alignment marks and 43 teeth between the driver side cam and crank alignment marks. You may want to consider replacing all the seals behind the cams and crank cogs. I didn't.. That's it really. Replace everything the way you took it off in reverse! I'm so tired right now... I'll look this over tomorrow and make corrections if necessary.
  7. For everyone's future reference: The HB can be braced adequately by using one of the two old serpentine belts and vice grips. I almost lost my mind when I realized I was in just as much trouble getting the HB on as I was getting it off... This worked flawlessly And I could have kept going long past 150ftlbs, and I did actually since 150ftlbs didn't feel like enough.
  8. I ended up buying a new HB.. $105! I decided against pull-a-part since I would likely end up with the exact same issue. Well I guess I could've pulled a spark plug and filled the cylinder full of gravel but then the guy who buys that engine is going to be scratching his head. Haha yeah we did the brakes first. That one is my buddy's wife's car. I actually have an impact but it is the giant red on from harbor freight and there wasn't enough room unless I removed the A/C condenser coils.. Anyway I've been sick as crap today and running around town to find the HB and then church tonight is all I am good for. I will return to this project tomorrow AM.
  9. So I watched a man on YouTube break the 27mm harmonic balancer bolt loose by attaching a vice grip the to lip of the pulley. That's a load of crap, or at least it was in my case. This method broke a piece off immediately. I proceeded to take a medium sized c-clamp and the bolt was so difficult to break loose that it destroyed my c-clamp. I ended up using my breaker and having my wife turn the engine over. Broke it loose right away... My bolt grip set didn't come with M6 bolts so I decided to try my jaw puller.. this completely destroyed the HB pulley. I ended up threading the 1/4-20 bolts in the bolt grip set to M6x1.0 and tapped the HB to M6x1.0 and then I was finally able to pull that thing off there. I feel comfortable saying that no one ever changed the timing belt before since the belt was genuine Nissan and everything was seized up.. I am lucky at 180k miles. Anyway I'll have to figure out what I'm going to do about the HB and once everything is buttoned up I'll post the rest of all the pictures.
  10. Maintenance I'll be performing tomorrow on my 99' JR50: -Timing Belt Service(T-belt, h20 pump, tensioner, crank seal, and cam seals(if needed) -Spark Plugs -Spark Wires -Distributor Cap and Rotor -Fuel Filter -Oil Change -Front Wheel Bearings -Serpentines and V-belt I will be taking pictures throughout these processes and I'll try to do my best for the fellow DIYer. Will also be doing brakes and rotors on a 08 Versa. Tomorrow I'll be doing a bunch of stuff on a 01 MDX if anyone would like pictures of that work I'll post them up also.
  11. Yard tranny still running great! Thank You Lord! Aftermath of Little Mountain in Dawsonville GA Squeaky clean! Tuckin
  12. https://vimeo.com/195735945 Lapse to Echo Lake https://vimeo.com/195736014 Steep drop
  13. Stuck in the mud Pulling big foot out of trouble From on top of the plant

Welcome to NPORA Forums


Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.



  • Create New...