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johnjohndoe

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Posts posted by johnjohndoe

  1. Well I did replace the fan clutch, but it was with a part from the junk yard so it’s possible that I did have an air flow issue but now I can feel a large amount of air being pulled across the condenser when I couldn’t before.

     

    The mechanical fan would blow a huge amount of air toward the engine— more than the electric fan for sure, and it had to be coming from somewhere, but I know for sure there’s a lot more air coming across the condenser with the electric fan.

     

    Maybe it’s how close the electric fan is (increased air speed at the condenser) to the radiator surface, and subsequently the condenser, that causes more air to be drawn across the condenser.

     

    Maybe there was some sort of OEM baffle that had been removed that forces the air to be pulled across the condenser instead of drawing air in from the open space between the radiator and condenser. Edit: I think this is what you were saying with the foam that degrades and falls out.

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  2. So did 4WD work at all that day prior to the problem? I have seen very dark fluid come from my tcase after just a couple years of use, granted there was some serious 4wheeling during that time. I suspect the ATX14A’s do get hot when pushed..


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  3. I insulated the low pressure lines in mine as well and I can tell a difference. I don’t care what anyone says to the contrary, that big aluminum plumbing absorbs heat energy that has to be removed by the condenser and insulating it makes a difference.

     

    Someone could calculate the surface area of the plumbing and approximate the ambient heat load inside the engine bay (especially the section that is clamped behind the belt tensioner) to see exactly how much it helps. I have seen a couple degreesF lower temps at the vents (w/ fan on high).

     

    I’ll tell you what makes a giant difference, a high CFM electric radiator fan. Night and day!

     

    The condenser is undersized though and no matter what it’s not gonna compare to other cars that were designed better.

     

    I’ve been kicking around the idea of a atomized water spray system built with a window washer pump and reservoir from the junk yard and some jets from McMastercarr for the situations that still need improvement, ie 95degF ambient temps in a drive thru line..

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

     

  4. It would be great to have a way to identify an OE part over a rebuild. I guess the level of wear and the lack of additional markings will go a long way..

    I have been waiting for years now to move forward with a sus lift because of all the mixed stories on binding.

    Thanks for doing all this research. I will have a close eye on the info that inevitably comes about.


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  5. Hell yeah dude, looks great!
     
    Also I kind of agree with R50JR, even without 4WD a rear locker can get you pretty damn far so it’s worth considering. 

    The LSD in my 2WD 01 Frontier was able to get me places my QX4 can’t get to without being in 4WD.


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  6. I have actually done that. Its response to turning the steering wheel is instant all the way to the tires. I can actually feel a little bit of a response inside the slop when I’m driving, it’s almost like the 1/2-1 inch slop makes my vehicle lean/tilt up/down but doesn’t change the trajectory of travel. 

     

    I end up with variations in the pitch of the road requiring back and forth changes in steering wheel position. I mean the same thing happens in any vehicle but I end up moving the steering wheel 2-3 inches back and forth to drive in a straight line instead of 1/4-1/2 inch adjustments.

     

    I have new:

    control arms w/ bushings

    sway bar bushings

    sway bar end links

    struts

    rack and pinion bushings

    tie rods ends inner and outer

    ball joints

  7. Ahhh, finally no more clunking up front! F’n sway bar bushings were the culprit. I thought it was an incorrectly installed passenger strut (actually that’s probably still true...)

     

    No more avoiding rough road stuff on the passenger side and I can finally just drive the damn thing.

     

    Now if I can get slop out of the steering I’ll be golden.

  8. I haven’t tried 5w20 yet. The last time, and all other times I put thicker oil in, it takes an entire oil change interval before clearing up.

    Something I’ve been noticing lately is that after an oil change, it’s like a wave, valve train noise increases until peaking at 3000 miles, and then starts decreasing again until it’s as quiet as a fresh oil change at 4000 miles. However I always change it around 4000.. don’t know exactly what that means, my theory is that the viscosity modifiers deteriorate rapidly until the higher base viscosity is reached causing poor flow and then oil dilution takes over returning lower viscosity and restoring flow.

    The best results I’ve gotten so far are with 5w30 Rotella Gas Truck Oil and a Fram Gold filter. Supposedly the oil has a high dissolved molybdenum content in addition to zinc.


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  9. I would try some good 5w30 synthetic. What filters are you using? I know wix are good quality but they also caused my oil pressure to be slow on startup. 

    The oil filter adding to the problem is something I experience. The best I have found is Fram Silver/Gold. Even K&N makes mine start clacking, even with 5w30. The ONLY combo that works for me is synthetic 5w30 and Fram Silver/Gold.


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  10. Well I'm pretty certain it isn't an oiling issue as you can see the oil flowing from around the tip of the lifter through the oil cap hole. But if I have to I'll get some brake clean and compressed air and blow through everything that I can and see if that changes anything. I'd rather not have to pull the heads but thanks to it being tbi it's pretty simple getting to everything unlike mpfi rigs lol

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    I might be jumping the gun on making assumptions on our issues being the same. I’m just hypersensitive to valve train noise and I’ve never heard anyone say the noise increases with higher viscosity except you. Mine is a VG33 so our heads are very similar but I think the oil pumps are different and it’d be a stretch to say two different oil pumps produce such a strange phenomenon.


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  11. You'd think that with an aging engine thicker oil would shut it up lol I'm going to run this oil in it for a few days since it also has a little mmo in it and then try an even thinner oil and cross my fingers. I've spent like $50 on oil in the last 2 days

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    I suspect either clogged oil pathways leading to the heads or some other kind blockage issue, or some sort of oil pump problem. Higher viscosity equals higher resistance to flow or something..


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  12. I had 10w30 in prior to the first pil change and it was still making a racket. Tomorrow I'm going to play around with a feeler gauge and see if maybe the cam lobes are worn down or something. If not I guess I'll be getting a set of heads from a donor vg30 and going that route. I also forgot to add that at idle my oil pressure is 12psi and at 3200rpm its 56psi so oil pressure is spot on thanks to a new oil pump when I did the rebuild years aga. 

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    If I put even 10w30 in mine is clacks itself half to death. But 5w30 and it purrs..  

     

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