onespiritbrain

It has to miss pretty good to throw a 300. I remember you had misfire codes whenever you were dealing with your distributor, is the misfiring as bad as it was with the dizzy?

If i was you id look into the nissan quest alternator upgrade

Hmmm... were there any transmission related problems? Did you notice any hard shifts or reluctance to downshift or shift to the next gear? How does the fluid look now? Does it smell different than new fluid? Jerking can be a symptom of transmission issues but usually not at idle. Also, an overheating engine can suffer various types of misfiring (pre/post) and if your knock sensor is unplugged (or relocated too far away from the block like mine) then the ECU cant pull time to correct it. It sounds like you were overheating to me. I'd change the engine oil and check the trans oil. Just saw that it was the coolant temp sensor that was unplugged. So you're getting a positive for knock but not misfire.. that sounds like the missing you feel is actually light knocking.

I think you may want to add a gusset to your engine mount brackets. I suspect over time that they will deform, especially if one of the rubber mounts fails, the non-dampened hammering and weight of the engine might be too much.

I am having trouble with the Doorman bushings in the same way. I am very tired of the 1 inch slack in my steering wheel caused by the racks ability to shift back and forth.. My rack does leak like a sieve.. I’m thinking about buying a couple cans of brass shims to make a couple bushings with that’ll allow for some serious clamping force. I just wonder how long brass would hold up.

Tapatalk is definitely the easiest method I know of. It’s in the AppStore

Someone take a profile picture of the seal and I’ll try to find it in bulk

Sounds awesome

If there isn’t any options then you might remove a section and search for a matching bulk weather strip material on McMasterCarr. You’d probably attach the ends with super glue, black caulk, or you could search for a glue that’s made for whatever the material of the weather strip is.

What helped them? You put Amsoil in yours?? I’m asking because I have been thinking about putting it in mine.

You can hardly read this stupid style of dipstick so I rolled it across a towel so you can see the level. Of course it doesn’t matter because I’m a couple quarts low instead of overfilled. What the frig?? This is not super low but I wonder if this is why my trans was doing the weird crap it was doing earlier this year. Anyway, you can help yourself see the level by gently imprinting a paper towel with the dipstick. I say you lower your level and I will fill mine back up haha

Wow... I’m barely on the dipstick at all. I guess it’s been a few transmissions ago that I was overfilled. I wonder what else there is like this...

Yours looks higher above full than mine. Give me just a second and I’ll take a pic of mine.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/automatic/signature-series-multi-vehicle-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid/?code=ATFPK-EA Are you having issues with your transmission that caused you to bring it to a shop? Having the trans overfilled a bit isn’t necessarily a bad thing, at least not with the RE4. I am well beyond a quart overfilled, maybe two.. When I check the dipstick at cold the level is 1/2 an inch up the cable.

That sucks about the junk yard cutting the wire harness. I think it’d be easier to splice your plugs on to the cut harness. I’m not sure what’s kosher but I’d solder the connections and use good quality heat shrink that seals. I’d remove all the looming and douse all the wires/plugs with simple green or purple power and then rinse them very good. Maybe follow that with denatured alcohol, especially inside the plugs where contact will be made. Actually it’d be better to grab a can of CRC QD Electronics Cleaner from Walmart to hit the plugs with. And be super careful to make sure you get the length right. That would suck if you had to extend every single wire because it’s too short.

Unlock the driver door with the key to turn it off.

Preach

My poor engine is indeed beating itself to death. Junk yard said 130k miles.. more like 300k.

If you’ve already got something going on creating excessive heat beyond what the radiator was spec’d to remove, or like what was said above about the fan clutch, you would want to fix that first. I experience excessive heat buildup, I assume from friction of a worn engine/oil pump and I ended up installing an electric radiator fan as a countermeasure. Before that I installed a trans cooler and bypassed the one integrated in the radiator. I did notice that coolant temps were slower to rise after the external cooler but continued to rise indefinitely. Like was said above, the integrated trans cooler just doesn’t have the surface area to overcome the much much larger surface area of the radiator core. Turning the heater on to bring coolant temps down works because that heat exchanger is quite big.

I hope you’re right man. Hey are you using the vg33 starter bracket or the vg30? If you’re using the vg30 one then I wonder if it’s a 16th of an inch thinner.

It’s like being in a different vehicle after the electric fan install. I haven’t been uncomfortable (temperature wise) since. Very highly recommended upgrade. I do think that a smaller and much lower powered fan will likely do the same for poor AC performance if placed on the condenser. I was experiencing borderline overheating issues at idle with the AC on so I went for a complete replacement. I selected an early 90’s Volvo 950 electric fan based on this guide: https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/volvo_electric_fan.shtml I no longer see coolant temps above 215degF in any situation. Again, it’s like a different vehicle. I used all the components in that guide. In addition I used two off the shelf automotive relays to automatically kick the fan into high speed when the AC clutch is pulled in. Here is the wiring diagram: tinyurl.com/y2b9sgh6

Lol As for the starter dragging the flex plate, the exact same thing happened to me but mine was caused by me bending the flex plate (I left the tc bolts in the tc while I bolted the engine to the bellhousing and crushed the flex plate against the bolts— it bent it perfectly so I couldn’t see any wobbling when turning the engine over and watching the flex plate thru the starter hole) Is there any chance the flex plate is bent? FYI I shimmed my starter to get the engine turning but the flex plate drug across the starter housing a wee bit while the engine ran and made it extremely hot. Point is you will have to get it perfect for it to work shimmed like that. Also, my flex plate being bent required the tc to come up just a little bit to meet it and it caused the tc to starve for oil (that’s a guess as to what actually happened) and murdered my beloved flawless transmission.

Dang I wish I had known about that radiator upgrade...

Wow that little plasma cutter is cutting that 1/4” plate?! That’s awesome Everything is looking robust so far. What sort of articulation will you end up with? Those shocks look good and long.