LittleFR
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Posts posted by LittleFR
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https://westky.craigslist.org/cto/d/2001-nissan-pathfinder-le/6418148752.html
My pathfinder with stock wheels and 1" spacers .2 inches more offset than your looking. 265/70r16s
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If you know a chick named "The Beast", you should get on that!
Been there, done that. Got the divorce papers to prove it.
I just call my R50 'The Pathy'
That's it, it's just like a really nice reliable automobile. Usually if I name something it's explicit, only repeated when I try to start it and well earned.
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I couldn't find ready mount struts.... For my 01 anywhere.
I just did the KYBs new Moog springs and spacers up front.
"Did it at home by myself, not particularly cheap or easy... But I'm waaaay too cheap to pay idiots at a shop"
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Ha a burnout contest with a guy at works 2012 5.0 manual Mustang. In front of the police station, they know and hate us. Haha.
( I backed into a ditch and coated my tires in mud ) We let prisoners judge it and they gave it to the shiny mustang....
Also installed some rat poison in my front struts. Haha. My engine bay was covered in mouse droppings. And my Silverado had a nest on the intake.
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Put your finger between the strut and the back of the tire. My tires on Sig leave me barely enough room to get my hand in with spacers.
If you go with spacers good luck finding hubcentric for a Pathy under $350
It's the same as Chevies and Yotas. ( I run Chevy lug centric spacers)
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It'll be up pretty high in the rear. Like 1.5"
I run a similar setup and have .5" in rear.
I had enough play on my rear brake lines to unbolt the shocks and jump up and down on the diff with the frame jacked up and not overextend them....
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With just 2" in rear stock length KYBs will work.
I would recommend changing the bearings for sure. My stock rubber tops were in perfect shape and heavier than the replacements so I reused them.
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Found out why I've had a steering wheel vibration and poor gas mileage.... One manual hub was locked in. I'm an idiot!!!
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I would love to have a 5spd diesel naturally aspirated blazer. It would be slow as sin and run forever.
I keep tools, food and gear in the back of my R50 though.
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Seems like I do recall the bushings being mentioned once before. HAHA.
Glad you figured it out though. You won't know what to do with that thing driving proper again!!
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There was a guy in Highschool that drove a 2wd S10 with 33'' Bogger TSLs a welded rear diff and a piece of mining belt across the front bumper to the crossmember to help it skid. The kid was also absolutely ruthless with how he drove it and could drive.... the truck became somewhat legendary until it's swift demise.
I mean a lifted locked 2wd will go places a stock one won't but it won't go anywhere a stock 4x4 wouldn't go either.
I'd be tempted to hunt down a 4x4.
No way I would put an $800 locker in one that took on board air either though. I'd go mechanical or rebuild LSD.
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My buddy had a Tracker with SAS and super Swampers. He would go to a Napa and an Advance Auto. Get the 3year warranty and just exchange one or the other about every month during mud bogging season. LOL.
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I have yet to figure out the photo posting on this site. I'm not very tech savvy, that's why I have a 'mystery ride' PM me your number or email and I can send them.
I have .5" of rake higher in the back. I do not like the front end up or a grasshopper stance.
I lifted the front and did OME and let it settle before adding rear spacers to get what I wanted.
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I thought the wix filter was a good replacement part although it seems like it was a hair shorter. But my memory may be wrong.
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Don't pay a shop to change your CV or give you advice.
A SFD would be great but not necessary.
What is necessary is Manual Hubs. Also Camber Bolts.
I agree %100 with the previous statement about overextending the CV during lift install.
Did you use 2.5" spacers for 3" of lift or 2" spacers that achieved 2.5" of lift?
Either way I'm close to your height. And only get CV bind at full droop with jack on the subframe.
Even then I can still turn my CVs by hand and no way would I grenade one puttering out of a driveway.
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I'd love to know more on the springs specs and how much they settle. You don't get much for $200 these days but if it's a true 2" that holds up it could be a great option for some folks.
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Welcome. I can probably help u on just about all things 2001 R50 related.
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Heat shield.
My exhaust shop cut mine off when I got the new pipes.
Usually when they start rattling the bottom falls off and the top can be ripped off by hand when exhaust is cold.
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I'm lifted and get right at 14 in winter. I idle more. In summer I do mid 15's occasional 16. Almost regret the 32's until I need them.
This is MPG. MERICA!!
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1.75 degrees maxed should be dang close to proper camber. I put mine in top hole. And shop barely adjusted them.
The strut plate must be facing properly. I made this mistake after my lift on one side, it was all jacked up. Easy time consuming fix though.
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Depends on your budget.
Spacers are cheapest. A combination of spacers and Springs is how most go.
Sub Frame Drop if you want to save CVs and have lots of time and a little money.
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Yep. I got a concrete saw one time from a yard sale that had the exact same issue. They stopped up the filter and took it off...
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LittleFR, a 96 cavalier? Don't see many of those anymore around here, they're all rotted away, just like the wd21 pathys. My solution to commuting to work was to move within 5 miles of my job and work from home 2-3 days a week. Of course not everyone can.
We don't have the hard winters like ya'll. my R50 and my Cavvy are both rust free even underneath. I live 6 miles from work but work 7 days a week. I try to save my 115k mile Pathy.
I gave $500 for the car, it needed wheel bearings... fixed it and been driving it ever since. Love the little thing.
Sta-Bil is doing well because the ethanol gas gums up carbs as it evaporates. Our local small engine repair shops are making a killing off it. I've had to rebuild my I laws 4wheeler carb twice. Now I sneak over there and treat the fuel every few months.
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The only performance benefit to me is that around here you get 87 or 93.
And if I want 91 I drive 25 miles.
So explain that to me.
I'm aware about how octane works. What I don't understand is how my local gas stations work.
I didn't complain about fuel prices if it was $10 a gallon it's not like I'm going to walk to work. However I do have a 96 Cavalier that gets 30+mpg I usually drive to work. So I put 200 miles on R50 a month and 500 on my car.
Friday they had non ethanol 90 octane under $3 a gallon. I topped up my half a tank of 93 and 87. I hate ethanol gas. It's the best thing to ever happen to Sta-Bil. My brother has his own fuel tank he runs 87 non ethanol in everything. Except when people get to stealing it and he puts diesel in that tank... It's pretty funny, you can follow the smoke trail to the broken down cars.
Sold my Pathy today.
in General Forums
Posted
Like title said. Sold her today.
Had over 2years. Really loved it. Still only 129,000 miles on her.
1 year after my 'ahem' marriage disagreement permanent holiday.
I finally got my dollar bills in a row.
7 months ago I bought a Chevrolet 2013 2500 hd 4x4 with 40k miles.
Also I got my house paid off and debts settled.
So with the passing of the R50 torch I can pay a final debt and start fresh.
A guy at work was needing a reliable 4x4 SUV and mine fit the bill. Let it go for same I gave.
It will be tough to see everyday but my daughter and I don't need the room.
Also the police will be looking for it as I did a reign of terror this week not limited to donuts, burnouts and wheeling in fields. Just wanted to make sure it was still reliable for him and get some use out of those high dollar tires.
Anyways. Thanks for all y'all's help getting my suspension installed and making her so badash.
I will be hunting for a 5 speed when I am in toy mode again.