02_Pathy
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Posts posted by 02_Pathy
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Plus a few more pics because why not
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Been quite some time but updated/upgraded the pathfinder since the last time I worked on it. I purchased some Warn Manual hubs for it as well as Method MR309 Grids in titanium gray on sale with 4.75” bs. The hubs went on super easy and I didn’t have to change my stock studs out as they were plenty long, I know people in the past had too but in my case I didn’t. With 265/70r17 tires that are a bit worn down I did still have ample room between the strut and the tire. With the new wheels I took off my wheel spacers so I am currently not running any spacers just solely the wheel. Driving around with the hubs unlocked you can tell a difference that there is less front end drag and that you can coast farther without having to be on the gas all the time. Nice little touches to the pathfinder in my opinion!
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New Method wheels and Warn hubs installed
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Sony A6400
I must agree. @02_Pathy What kind of camera are you using?
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The OEM studs in the top hat are pressed in there pretty good, so if you did cut them it would be extremely hard to remove the stud still in the top hat. I would do it right by taking the strut apart, what I did was place the top hat ontop of 3 sockets that were a little larger than the studs and had the stud facing up then just hammered them out. Mine came out pretty easy but experiences might vary due to corrosion and mileage. Also if you had the bolt coming down and the nut on the bottom it would be almost impossible to tighten the nut on the inner side in the fender compared to just having the bolts coming up and tightening the nuts via in the engine bayI’m know this has been discussed, and i’ve seen people do it, but would like input from those who have done it before. Is there anyway to add the 1 inch spacer without taking the entire strut apart? I know the lip of the top perch restricts removal of the old bolts, but what if you were to cut the old bolts in half then put the new hardware through the top? Would it be worth the trouble? i know both ways have their own difficulties.
The only person i can think of who has done the OME spring with spacer off the top of my head is @02_Pathy
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Star gazing
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02_Pathy
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I've used the trakmotive cv joints off rock auto and got about 50k miles before the boots ripped, imo that's pretty good for a remanufactured cv joint and also having the CV's at an angle due to the liftDo you remember the brand?
Ive heard some people have issues with the Cardone ones so I’d like to avoid those. The other option is SurTrack, they seem ok but I haven’t heard much about their longevity or suitability for off-roading. Cardone at least uses thermoplastic boots whereas the Surtracks use neoprene
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Should probably update this so you guys don't think I'm working on this thing forever lol. After 3 weeks of tedious work I finally got it back together and thankfully no leaks! This is definitely a big job to do nevertheless but totally worth it in my case as I would drip about half a quart of oil after parking... yeah. Also in the meantime while I had the rig apart@TowndawgR50 helped me install the Pines to Spines 4" SFD kit which also made it possible to take my oil pan out and access other parts of the vehicle. More details on that later...
Also after this huge project and with addition to the SFD I have replaced and installed:
New OEM motor mount
Denso Starter
4" stainless steel braided brake lines from Goodridge
Extended breathers on front and rear differentials
U Joints
New O rings in the oil pan as well as the pan gaskets and RMS
IVAC gasket
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This particular photo is with OME HD coils with a 1 inch SF creations spacer on the strut plus the 4 inch strut spacers. After the photo I took the 1 inch spacer out as it did cause my camber to be positive just very slightly even with camber bolts and the camber adjustment on the strut spacer with the Pines to Spines design. After getting it aligned at the shop with the setup OME HD coils and 4 inch strut spacer everything was within spec without the use of camber bolts. I sit currently around 5.5 inches of liftYeah man that looks fantastic!
I’m curious though, what combo did you use for the front? Is the lift completely from spacers or did you pair lift coils with smaller spacers? I was told camber is a nightmare when you go the second route so I’m wondering what the best combo would be if I ever decided to do a SFD
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Thanks dude![mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] and [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] I’m not sure you could’ve picked a better first vehicle to show off your product on.
It looks killer Alex!
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Pines to Spines Offroad 4" SFD kit is making her turn heads daily now
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"on reinstallation I bought some thread rod that were the same thread pitch of the pan bolts and threaded them into the block as guide rods to slide the pan back on without smearing the rtv everywhere and making sure the pan goes straight up and seals."
That's a super good idea. I work on Acuras professionally and when we do engines they drop out with the subframe and we use kinda the same trick. We use old subframe bolts, cut the heads off and cut a notch in them so when we are lowering the car onto the subframe we can get it positioned correctly and don't have to mess with trying to lines the holes up.
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Also for dropping the subframe, if you have spare trailing arm bolts for the pathfinder, they're the same thread pitch for the rear subframe bolts and act as a guide for about 3-3.5 inches down
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For the most part you really have to take everything out that the manual says to do unfortunately. The only thing that I deviated from the manual was that I just unbolted the alternator and hung it using garden wire to have more room and I didnt even touch the power steering pump. But if you want to drop the whole pan, you have to drop the subframe and hoist the engine so it stays in place just so you have enough room to take it out. I just used the harbor freight 1000lb capacity support bar that sits on the inner fender. Also if you do drop the pan, on reinstallation I bought some thread rod that were the same thread pitch of the pan bolts and threaded them into the block as guide rods to slide the pan back on without smearing the rtv everywhere and making sure the pan goes straight up and seals. Also cut some slots in the threaded rods as well so you can take them out with a flathead if you do go that routeSweet! Thanks for the actual pics, I've looked at the service manual but having actual pictures is super nice. Do you actually have to take out everything the manual says or are you able to sneak it out without fully removing stuff like the alternator and power steering pump?
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I just dropped my transmission and oil pan to replace the oil pan seal and rear main seal. On the rear main seal there is a channel where the rubber upper pan seal goes into where you do goop it with RTV and sandwich it between the oil pan. I removed my whole pan and replaced the front and rear seals as I'm already this far I might as well do it right now then have it leak later down the road. Although you do have to remove quite a bit of things to get the whole pan off. Also if you take the pan off theres 2 o rings inside that you'll need to replace as well. I just ordered the Felpro RMS that comes with a new retainer and the oil pan gasket set that came with the 2 seals for front and rear as well as the o rings. Best of luck with the pathfinder!TL;DR at bottom before pic.
Hey all,
Been lurking here for a couple months reading up on guides and how-to's and looking at mods other people have done. Now it's my turn to post.
My buddy's dad bought this 02 back in 2004 and drove the hell out of it. Mid-2018 he started having transmission problems. With 287k on it, he opted to just park it and he bought a new 4Runner. Well finally talked with him about it and I told him I'd buy it off of him. And that was that. Wouldn't stay running due to the idle air control valve, so replaced that and then test drove it hard and had no issues with the transmission. I didn't want to throw a transmission at it without confirming that's what it was. So I started doing other things to it. I bought some old 4Runner wheels with tires off craigslist for a few hundred dollars, great deal especially since the guy said the PO had just installed them before selling the 4Runner, and then the current owner put some aftermarket wheels and mud tires on, so I came out with tires with only 700 miles on them and date code is end of 2018. I installed some Warn hubs, a new alternator (bearing had started making a ton of noise and I screwed up reassembling the old alternator with the new bearings), new idler pulley, replaced the oil cooler o-ring and the rack boot on that side that the oil had deteriorated. Got some AC lift springs with Bilstein 33-185552 rear shocks and KYB 335032/335033 front struts and new strut bushings, also replaced the rear upper trailing arm bushings, they were absolutely wrecked haha. Also replaced all fluids in the truck except brake fluid (will probably do that next oil change).
So after all of that and the looming question of "when the hell is this transmission going to fail" and driving 200 miles with no issues it finally bit the dust on me at 70 MPH cruising on the freeway heading home from my parents place after watching the Seahawks lose the divisional game. Felt like it dropped 4th gear and went into 3rd, was at 3500-4000 RPM. I needed gas anyway so I filled her up, started driving again and couldn't do much but crawl. Then it clunked and shifted fine a couple times. Luckily I was a couple miles from my work (I work at a car dealership as a technician). Unfortunately I didn't make it, after getting stopped at a light, it wouldn't shift out of first anymore and the metal on metal grinding noise coming from underneath me was enough to convince me to call for a tow. AAA got there and towed it to my work. I ordered up a transmission from a wrecking yard with 87k on it and bought the 1 year warranty on it. Now I'm just waiting for it to get here.
TL;DR->> So here are my questions, I am already planning on replacing the internal filter on the 'new' transmission (I know its just a metal screen and doesn't do much but I'm planning on looking in the pan anyway), I am also planning on installing an aftermarket tranny cooler to bypass the factory one in the radiator (Hayden 678 if anyone is wondering). I was thinking if I should do the rear main seal as well, even though it looks like you are supposed to remove the oil pan, are you able to just add liquid gasket to the bottom of the seal retainer and call it good, or is it an actual fitment issue that is blocking you from replacing the RMS without dropping the pan? Also when I did my ATF change I used Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF. Do you guys recommend that or should I do a different fluid with the new transmission? Anything else you guys recommend I rock out when doing the transmission?
Thanks!
Jack
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Making slow progress due to work but finally got the oil pan off and with@TowndawgR50 swinging by and giving me a hand. Upper oil pan seal was broken in half so explains why it was pouring out. Getting the pan off was surprisingly easy as the RTV wasnt really holding it anymore as well as the RMS.
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Yeah its definitely a nightmare come true for me lolYikes man, that kind of job is probably my biggest nightmare when it comes to the pathy
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Alright it's been a long time since I've been on here but the rig still exists in my life but now I'm addressing the huge oil leak I've had for a year or so and always put the job off to the side as it's somewhat a big one for a $20 part. Upper oil pan seal is completely shot with the RMS only weeping just a little bit of oil. Had to remove lots of large components to get the tranny out like the front diff, exhaust, drivelines obviously and other tid bits which add up time. So far got the flex plate off and called it a night and hopefully will resume next weekend.
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44 minutes ago, PathyGig12 said:
Hey rain goat, I’m trying to source the gaskets but I can’t find any online place selling the last one you mentioned (14033-4w00A)
The closest one I can find is this one (14032-4W00A)
Do you think you could grab me a link? Or is the dealership the only option? The other ones were easy, but no one seems to have this one.
I’m also wondering why you suggest getting the screws from an Altima and removing the washers instead of just buying the correct screw size from a hardware store? You listed them at m3 0.50 10mm right? Or maybe the shop will have them on hand?
I took apart my manifold 3 times for various jobs such as the power valve screws, coolant crossover pipe and valve covers and I've used both OEM gaskets as well as the Mahle complete set and the Mahle imo looks very similar to the OEM gaskets and I have no issues with them. Here's a link to the gaskets and they also have Felpro which is fairly reputable as well.
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I can say that the drive by cable is very controllable and predictable and in 4lo I can feather the throttle and not lurch forward, I have driven several drive by wire vehicles and the response is definitely not like a drive by cable and in my dad's '19 Trailhawk it is extremely terrible, you keep adding throttle and nothing happens then all of a sudden power comes out of nowhere and you launchCommenting on DBC / TX14 '02 LEs:
[mention=39493]02_Pathy[/mention]: A year ago I was spotting for the PNW group at Tahuya. 02_Pathy was able to approach, climb, traverse & descend obstacles with minute precision - a VERY controlled drive.
Myself: I've mostly used 4Lo just on rough Forest Roads this year, my last trip I was in 4Lo for long time intervals, however, I would note that I definitely have a linear throttle response.
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You'll have more room to work with if the tires are off and the rig on jack stands, that's how I did mine
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I used a superstrut bar and held it to the rack via u bolts and used that to mount the side lights and used auxbeam tube clamp mounts for the front and back pods on the rackSorry to bring up and old topic but I feel like adding more lights again, and was wondering what you used to attach the pods to the basket? thank you
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Ome hd coils with 1 inch spacer and nrc9449s with 33 185569 shocksHey what lift do you have on your Pathy?
I am running 6" and looking for a good set of rear shock and looking at the ones you have.
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The_Oregonian’s ‘02 Build Thread
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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If you remove the plastic tray/storage compartment underneath the floor mat in the cargo area, there should be a rubber boot in the floor pan that has the wiring for the trailer hitch wire harness if you have the tow package from the factory. I used that rubber boot to route wires from my backup lights in the rear bumper and into the cab of the vehicle. Then seal it off with some silicone so water doesn't intrude.