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Alkorahil

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Posts posted by Alkorahil

  1. I have known several friends and customers who have gone through many aftermarket distributors just like you are doing before getting a good one. So many of those aftermarket brands are not built or rebuilt very well. Not saying this is your exact issue but it would not surprise me either.

     

    Out of curiosity what brand is it and where did you get them?

  2.  

    Anyone have info re the ohm resistance for the stock fuel gauge?

     

     

    I don't have a Service Manual that goes back that far and cant find it in the archive.

    I can tell you on the 94 and 95 models the fuel sender unit is 1.5 ohms and the fuel gauge is 3.8-8.5 ohms full and 83.6-93.6 ohms empty.

    • Like 1
  3. Hi guys,

     

    I'm planning to replace the bulbs in my cluster before sticking it back in. It's a '93 square dash and it's got two sizes of bulb in it. The bulb lookups I've found suggest a #194, which looks like it's correct for the larger bulbs, but I can't find anything regarding the smaller bulbs (most of the idiot lights and the clock). I've checked the owner's manual, the FSM, even eBay listings for LED conversion kits, and I've found nothing helpful. Anyone know what these little buggers are called?

     

    If all else fails I'll bring them to a local parts place and try to find a match, but the last time I did that they sort of looked at it funny and brought out what looked like a Christmas tree light.

     

     

    The small ones with the brown sockets are Nissan P/N 24860-40F01.

    They are 14 Volt , 1.4 watt

  4. It seems like it is coming from the valve cover passenger side from furthur inspection yesterday. How would i go about replacing it? it seems like i just unhook a couple of electrical connections some screws and the cover would pop off. I never done one of these before so i'm not going to go by me assuming how it comes off. Any advice would be appreciated . thank you

     

     

    Passenger side is super easy and straight forward. Unhook the harnesses and hoses that connect to the valve cover, take a phillips screwdriver and undo the screws holding the valve cover on, being careful not to loose any of them, pull the valve cover off. remove and replce the seal.

  5. I would look at the valve cover gaskets and the rear main before the oil pan.

    As said above, oil can leak down from higher up and collect on teh pan, making it appear to be the pan.

     

     

    Nissan says it should take 5 hours. ASE standard rate that most shops use says it takes 6.6 hours.

  6. I cant get a hold of the service adviser at Nissan of McKinney. I wont bother trying anymore. I keep getting pushed off to other advisers that seem to not be able to help me.

     

     

    I am very sorry that this happened and not pleased to hear that this happened here at all, and have let it be known. Who was it in the Service Dept that you spoke with?

     

    I am here 9-6pm M-F in the Parts Dept here. If you need something, please come see me and I will do what I can to get things done for you. You can also call me in the parts dept. I am here to help as I can.

    • Like 5
  7. If this is a 4WD Pathfinder, that would unfortuantely be about the right amount of labor hours to remove/replace/reseal the engine oil pan.

    There is a lot of stuff in the way that has to be removed first, then put back on.

     

    Is he certain the leak is from the engine oil pan and not something else?

    • Like 1
  8. You should also replace the pilot bushing. You need to inspect the flywheel for cracks. Any over a inch, the flywheel should be replaced, not just resurfaced. Usually what I do when im in there, is a new clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bushing and a rear main seal. Your going to want to clean the bellhousing of all the clutch dust and debris. Pop off the shift fork, clean and lube the pivot stud. Luckily on the R50, there are no torsion bars to drop, but yes, as B said, it is very heavy. So be careful!

     

     

    All of this.

     

    I like to replace the flywheel bolts because they are torqued on fairly tight, like 108 ft lbs.

  9. Hey guys!

    So here is the skinny of oil filters. First off, they change numbers alot with many interchangable part numbers for the same part because Nissan has multiple suppliers though the years.

    Here is the oil filter part number applications for the Nissan R50 and Infiniti JR50:

     

    3.3L ENGINE

    Production dates: 01/00-07/02

    Part Number: 15208-65F0C (supercession part numbers: 15208-65F00, 15208-65F0A, 15208-65F0B, 15208-65F0E)

     

    Production dates: 10/95-01/00

    Part number: 15208-9E01A (supercession part numbers: 15208-9E000, 15208-31U00, 15208-31U0A, 15208-31U0B)

     

     

    3.5L ENGINE

    Part Number: 15208-65F0C Production dates: 01/00-07/04

     

     

     

    All this being said, the only difference between the two part numbers is that the 15208-9E01A is about 1/2 and inch longer, thus larger. The diameter and thread is the same.

    • Like 1
  10. There are four bulbs in the AC control head. Some of them may have burt out. You can pull the unit and checkthe bulbs if you have really good eyes. OR, with it still plugged in, swap the lamps around and see if the illunination changes. If it does it is probably the bulbs.

    P/N 27545-1W600

    LAMP ASMY, CONTROLLER

     

    I have also seen bad crimping of the wiring on the plug going into the dimmer switch cause the lamps to not work properly as well. Wiggling the connector the dimmer switch will cause dash lights to come on.

    • Like 2
  11. I passed emissions inspection....the second time. :)

    First time everything was perfect except NOX was 11 points over the max at 15mph which failed and it barely pass NOX at 40 points under the max allowed at 25MPH on the dyno test.

     

    SO I popped the hood checked the timing which I hadnt done in a long time. It was at 21/22 BTDC. So I reset it to 15BTDC like it should be and re tested it. The NOX dropped 600 and 680 points and passed. As a side benefit I got more life and response from my engine I hadnt noticed had gone away :)

     

    I took my own advice I hand out here so much...check your timing!!! :bounce:

     

     

  12. Hey folks, thanks for taking the time.

     

    I split the cost of a diagnostic with the owner at Courtesy Nissan. Here's what was uncovered:

     

    Bank 2 Catalytic Converter is out of commission. They want $1300+ to replace, parts and labor. This is the cause for the CEL.

     

    Also, while up on the rack, they found that all four rear lateral links are broken, and need to be replaced. This is estimated to cost &850+

     

    They said it needs an alignment for $200.

     

    They also said it needs a new right inner CV joint, because said CV joint's boot is torn.

     

    Also recommended work was a battery cleanup ($35), and a front and rear differential service ($400 total).

     

    All total, to replace everything with Nissan factory parts, its $3183.14

     

     

    A mechanic I have used in the past offered an estimate, and here it is:

     

    To replace the catalytic converter it would be $1010

     

    All rear lateral links would be $695

     

    Replace right inner CV joint with new right axle $250

     

    Free alignment

     

    Front and rear differential would be $200

     

    Total would be $2160 using all new Nissan parts, though he did say he would give me a bundle price that would knock another one or two hundred off.

     

     

    Just out of curiosity, I spoke with Firestone.

     

    They offered to do a catalytic converter for $798.25. However at that price the catalytic converter would be a NAPA part.

     

     

     

    Please,I'd like to hear your thought (alkorahil, I sent you an email last week)

     

     

    Hello there, jsut saw this.

    IMHO it seems like it needs a lot of work. Nothing on the list is completely out of place for an R50 that age.

    But IMHO For the same amount of $$ you can find one that needs less work to start with. Those part prices they quoted you are full MSRP.

    The diff service is a good idea and should be done, but it not critical to do immediately.

    The catalytic converter and rear links are a necessity. I am not a big fan of aftermarkt catalytic converters on the OBDII vehicles as they just dont seem to last as long as the OEM. But the OEM can get very pricy. Again IMHO.

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