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Posts posted by 03TroutFinder
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Finally got around to changing the LCA to correct some negative camber caused from some semi aggressive wheeling. It seemed to have corrected the camber, but I also ordered a lower ball joint to change out since I had it all torn apart.
I can’t for the life of me remove it though. I reviewed a few YT videos and they simply just remove it once the axle is slid out enough to get the room.Mine is apparently ceased or pressed very tight. I’ve used a ball bearing separator & press with no luck.
it does appear that someone had either replaced it before or lost the castle nut at some point since it had a huge nut on this side(passenger). The drivers side has the correct castle nut.
Any ideas on how I can get this joker removed? I’ve definitely compromised the existing one obviously by trying to remove it as a significant amount of grease has leaked out.
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Not sure if this is the same issue, but mine did that at times going down the highway. Only happed a few times over the course of a year, but ended up being the crankshaft position sensor. No issues since I changed
it out. Cheap and easy to change out. I believe mine went bad due to getting exposed to wet conditions like creek crossings, etc.
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Can’t answer your specific question, but I continued to receive messages, mail flyers, etc regularly for over a year or two.
Nissan ended up sending someone directly to my house-They gave a courtesy call first-to change them out. The guy showed up within a few minutes of making the call so I’m sure he was staged up the street to make the call.
Point is, based on my experience if your vehicle was impacted, you’d be fully aware.
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Should be no issue. I’ve carried a truck on a 15ft trailer nearly 800 miles. Just keep it around 60-65mph. Don’t drive like you normally would with no load.
When I did that it was fine. When I started to get north of 70mph constant for a significant period of time, it wasn’t too happy with me and let me know it. Got just a tad warmer than normal and went into safe mode. Let it rest for about 30 minutes at a gas station and we were back in business.- 1
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Mines been this way since I bought it about 6-7years ago!
it had just under 1/4 tank when I bought it. I test drove it for quite a bit so it was warmed up and went through the gears rigorously including 4wd.
All checked out so I bought it and headed down the way. About 5 minutes later it started sputtering really bad and I got P’OD something bad and the seller wasn’t answering his phone which made me even more upset.
He did call me back and ended up following me to the gas station to fill it up. Never a problem since now that I know that when I’m hits the 1/4 line, I better start looking for fuel.
I now use the mileage meter as my gauge and have a Jerry can on board just incase!My guess is the fuel warning light it tied to the arm placement and nothing else. Mine never comes on except for the few times it’s done as the previous post mentions where it will drop to the bottom while driving for a period of time and come back up. While it’s down at the bottom, the light comes on. Otherwise, I never see it because my truck is slap empty at right about 1/8 of a tank on the meter.
still get between 325-350 miles per tank regardless as long as I’m not hauling anything.
my gauge arm also never goes above 3/4 of a tank either.
Just something over had to adjust to when driving it-which unfortunately is extremely rare! -
Lol, naw but I guess it may be helpful to add in my setup for additional insight.
Rancho 5000 strut w/ OME HD lift springs.
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Ok NPORA family, dusting this thread off to show that I DID try to research my issue before posting a new thread, but I still would like more current input from the pro's on here.
The pic is kind of hard to tell, but my passenger side has developed a slight negative camber. It occurred after an off road adventure awhile back.
Another issue worth noting is that when I took the front spacers off and drove it, the steering became increasingly erratic. Very much like the lower ball joint not being intact causing random pull. With the spacers on, this specific issue is not a concern.
Not sure why the spacers matter with this issue.
The steering has become more loose overall and has a slight "wiggle" in the steering wheel, hence why I'm doing a complete steering/suspension overhaul of original parts.
To the question at hand, based on your experience do you think I bent my strut when wheeling?
Are there any other things that I should consider before forking out for a new strut assembly.
And since I will already be doing a complete overhaul of the entire front suspension already. Are there any brands that would be better than others for replacement parts?
Thanks in advance for any insight provided!
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@onespiritbrain, must just be us that enjoy to wet a line now and then!
Here's a few shots from a recent overnight float in the okefenokee swamp last weekend.
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Got the brakes bled, made a more permanent mount for the pop charger filter, and strapped up the recovery tracks I ordered awhile back.
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Strapped on the recovery tracks!
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Brakes all the way around today. First time doing drum brames. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.
Tomorrow, going.to have to bleed the brake lines i think. Still a lot of play in the pedal.
Also will figure out these camber bolts for the passenger side to level the camber and hope to finally fabrocate the small spacers up front to level out the front end a little bit more.
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I subbed!production on that video was on point. i hope your channel keeps growing!
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Nice! Thanks for sharing.
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Pathfinders matter
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Proof positive
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Thanks Bro! I may need to go check that place out. Need to change my back window out. It has some metal that partially melted in it from cutting metal and the sparks were flying into it!I went to a new junkyard the day before yesterday called Encore in Jefferson GA ( [mention=39152]03TroutFinder[/mention] ), and it has pathfinders that are not raped to the bone. I found an OEM dizzy that looks pristine, it even had the original cap/rotor (I'm saving it for when I eventually need it). I also, after at least 10 trips to other junkyards, found a rear wing. Finally I grabbed a passenger side marker to replace the one that broke when that guy crashed into me and peace offered me a mcfish sandwich at 8am in the morning...
So after acquiring the above mentioned parts I went to work and performed the following:
new spark plugs
new spark wires
new dizzy cap
new dizzy rotor
fixed coolant leak under throttle body
installed new to me passenger side marker
installed new to me rear wing
Happy New Year!!! _,,..--;;:::2021:::;;--..,,_
No telling what else I may need though.
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Big city
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Dog gone
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Gangsta party
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Carry on
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Charitable giving
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Solid foundation
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White wedding
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Red Robin
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Lower ball joint removal
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by 03TroutFinder
Thanks! I got the ball joint changed out this morning and #1 did do the trick. Had to order the right hammer for the job though!
Note that I was able to remove it without fully removing the CV though. There were a couple of YT videos showing how to do it-Although they were a bit shotty!
Removed my manual hub assembly and washer so the CV could travel. Pushed the knuckle forward to get just enough space to remove the Ball Joint.
Not sure if this is a time saver, but figured I would share.
My negative camber issue still remains though. When I got it all back together, the camber was sitting true, but once I took it o
for a spin. The negative camber came back.
My initial thought was a bent strut, but someone in one of my other post said it may be the LCA, so I went ahead and changed it out. Still the same issue with the negative camber.
Would the Strut be the next place to start to identify the issue? They are Rancho struts with OME shocks for about a 2-2.5” lift. No spacers any longer when I went to the OME shocks.