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Gingy

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Posts posted by Gingy

  1. That was my thought. The military will pay to ship it for me. The only rust i've found have been on the exhaust and a little surface rust on the hitch (removed) and the push bar. The frame is actually pretty solid. I know it's hard for a great answer w/o y'all knowing the truck but thanks for the insight.

    Depends on condition and rust, but I doubt you can get more than $2k for it anywhere (prices will vary with area). If it runs good and it isn't too hard to bring it down, I'd say do that. Simply put, you know what you have and you'll have wheels the moment you arrive, and not have to find something/fix it if it needs it. One less thing to deal with, and you can always find something else and sell it if you want later...

     

    B

     

  2. silverton, could you describe how you used the jumper to bypass the amps? Pics would be great!

    If the speakers worked before, and they don't now, then something is up with your new deck or install. The factory amps (yes there are two) are accessible from the rear through the removable panel on the passenger side that you would use to change the bulbs. There is one amp for the front four speakers, and one amp for the rear four speakers. What I did was use jumper wires on these plugs to bypass my amps. It disables the tweeters as the amps have a builtin crossover but no direct wiring from deck to tweeter.

     

  3. I bought my 92 SE a few months ago as an Alaska beater to get me by. Completely stock 202k miles, doesn't leak or smoke. Will need a clutch soon. But other than the air shocks and the rear wiper, everything works as advertised. even the A/C. Paid $900. What would one of these sell for down in the lower 48? (moving south this summer). I'm trying to decide if i should take it with me as my DD or just sell it here in Alaska. Thoughts?

  4. recently replaced the factory head unity because all it's features quit working. ordered an install kit from crutchfield and wired my new unit all up but only the front speakers work. I believe my path has a factory amp. could this be the reason my rear speakers will not work? Whats the best fix?

  5. Bought my pathfinder knowing the clutch master cylinder leked down. I was told by the p/o it was the master cylinder but wasn't sure. It doesn't appear to be leaking under the hood. HOWEVER, I just started connecting the dots with the what looks like old water stained aged carpet under the clutch pedal. Is it possible or common for these guys to leak back through the firewall?

     

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk

  6. I did the R50 center console swap and rally like it. The armrest is bigger and sturdier, and the cupholders are just right. I did have to relocate my ebrake handle a few inches to the left, but it wasn't too hard. I think I have some pics of it posted on here somewhere.

     

    DMA251 if you run across those pics please post. i'd love to see it. i'm not familiar with those pathfinders. I'm just getting into these things.

  7. My noise is only when the truck is cold. It's a good maybe 10 minutes before it quiets up. i can drive it park it and crank it again and it's fine if it has warmed up. I dont know which would be worse to have. Broken exhaust stud or lifter problems lol. hell at 202,xxx miles it may be both.

  8. Hopefully not too bad. i've got factory flares. a little is fine. i'm more concerned with rubbing but it'll be getting a little altitude bump soon. Thanks. Y'all guys are great. thanks for helping with all my noob questions

  9. Looking at a 15x8 procomp alloy wheel. Problem is the 4.5" backspacing. I'll probably be sticking with the 31x10.50 tire. I was trying to stay close to the 3.75" backspacing but that wheel is a beast at 27.8 lbs vs the alloy at 16 lbs. Will that 4.5" backspacing be anything to worry about?

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