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taylorhayis

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Posts posted by taylorhayis

  1. Take a good look at the whole front end while you're under there, given the truck's age and usage, but my money's still on the strut rods. I've read about a few people having similar issues when theirs went out.

     

    Huh... sounds like the failed clutch probably didn't have much to do with the trans failure. I found a similar failure in a tablesaw recently, the pinion was completely stripped and the spur gear it meshed with looked new. All I could figure was that one was made of harder steel than the other, or maybe the larger gear had more teeth to spread the wear over. Sucks it went out right after a clutch job!

    Yea my mechanic mentioned that the gearbox was failing, and the teeth were probably cracked already. But the absolutely crap clutch (which had heaps of slip) didn't apply full power to the box. So after a brand new clutch, the moment I took it off road, all that torque that before was gettin lost in the clutch went right into the box. Made sense to me!

    They were so sad to see me back so soon :( hadn't even paid them for the clutch yet.

  2. Everything in the front end us usually trash after years of wheeling and abuse. Centerlink, tie rod ends, idler arm, tension rods, ball joints... I see the tie rod end jam nut is completely loose, that's not okay at all. Did you do that trying to make it go down the road straight again? If not that means it was already loose and the twisting the center link does when turning has backed the adjuster off.

     

    Blowing out tension rod bushings will definitely make the truck track like crap and wobble over bumps.

    Cheers for that, the loose but was absolutely me, putting it way out of alignment, but getting rid of some of the wobble. Poor muddies are paying the price...

    Tension rod bushings... Sounds probable. I am unfortunately quite unfamiliar with front ends, guess I better learn.

  3. Strut rod... That sounds much more legit. I read a writeup on here a while ago about those rods wearing very thin, and now that I've ripped the cup, I'll have to pull that apart and weld up a new one / add material back to the rod. Should be a snap!

     

    You reckon that could be largely responsible for the wobble? My mechanic was thinking tie rod ends, and arms and stuff - which all sounds expensive. Maybe I should try the strut rod first?

     

    Yea new tranny was from a diesel pathfinder, but fit alright. Spent more on that and a clutch (within a week of eachother! Clutch went, then a week later tranny went...) than the truck is worth!

     

    The tranny was fine for a day of 4by'ing, but on the way home, cruising on the highway it just all at once gave up. Such a funny place to do it...

     

    Glad you like the headunit! I plan on making and selling them at some point, why does nobody make cool ones?!

     

    Thanks for the suggestions!

  4. Sooo over the Christmas break I took a track. The most insane track I've ever done!!! Had to do it all in low range 1st, 15 PSI in 32" mud tires, and I barely made it! The truck I was out with was on two wheels for alot of the track. Heavy stuff!!

     

    Although I made it, at the end coming up very steep hill, I came across a ledge in the hill! 1m high and a big rock outcropping. So I went right over it! Amazing. But I really stuffed up the front end.

     

    If I jack up the front passenger side, I have 50mm of wobble. Tie rod ends? Pitman arm? Ball joints?

    I also noticed a bit of a tear in the "c-arm holder thing" (a big shaft comes from the C arm lower and attaches to the chasis. I'm planning on just welding a plate over it and drilling a new hole.

     

    I made it home, with some serious squealing coming from that tyre, and stopping a few times to adjust it and stop it from making noise... and I have been driving it since. But I need to get it fixed, it's scary to drive as the steering kinda has a mind of its own now.

     

    What do you guys reckon I'm up for?

     

    Pics!

     

    KXeyvMs.jpg?1

     

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    Bonus pics!!

     

    cAgmM1vh.jpg

     

    Just after breaking the front end...

     

    8dIzFrth.jpg

     

    custom Jerry can holder with some old vice grips to lock it in place. Works a treat!

     

    wBo9tBrh.jpg

     

    snapped a torsion bar... crappy

     

    wVeATZ5h.jpg

     

    made a radio from a FM reciever, amp, and bluetooth module from Ebay and a 3pos rotary switch. Works amazing!! Aux in, BT and FM. Just some scrap sheet metal tigged together, and boom - coolest head unit around.

     

    fNJiKZEh.jpg

     

    This is what happens when your clutch slave goes out in the bush when you're alone. And you have to get back to the road with no clutch... (I later learned to put it in gear with the car off, then start it to roll start yourself in low range! Brilliant! Wish I'd have thought of that. Instead I turned the idle down on the carb so it barely idled, and then in low range just SHOVED it into gear as it was about to stall and then slammed on the gas.

    It got me home! And then to the mechanic! Who laughed at me...

     

    • Like 1
  5. So I made a rookie mistake last night, one that I have made countless times on everything mechanical I have ever owned - I fixed multiple things at once, and now I can't diagnose the problem...

     

    I have been losing all power when I'm off road, as soon as I get to a hectic bit and rev hard for a while, the engine starts shuddering and I have to rev really high before releasing the clutch, or else I'll stall. I can sometimes limp back home, but then after a while it comes back. My latest outing had us using ALL of our snatch straps to get another vehicle in a spot with traction... but I digress. Something has been amiss.

     

    I decided to replace my coil, after reckoning it was the most probable cause. But while in there, I did the distributer rotor, as the one in there was really bad. And I thought I'd do plugs too. And then the guy at the parts house said I should get a set of points, which I had never heard of - so I did the points too.

    But I just pulled the old ones out, and stuck the new set in... They are wired up fine, and I set them as close to spec (0.46mm) as I could by guessing, but I'm still getting no spark. Turns over fine, but not catching. Just before bed last night, I grabbed a 12v light and stuck it on the positive wire of the coil, and ground (with the key on) and got nothing... I think I am supposed to get 12v? Did I blow an ignition fuse? Are the points THAT sensitive? I'll grab my feeler gauges and try again tonight, but now I have a broken down truck at home, with my shop 5km away... bloody hell.

     

     

    Thanks in advance for the thoughts guys!

     

    Cheers,

     

    Taylor

     

    (bonus pictures, because I know you love pictures!)

     

    6xdbee7l.jpg

    New parts!

     

     

    FPB6PVsl.jpg

    The dizzy before I touched it...

     

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    I made some roof racks! From an old gate. Still need to paint it... :/

     

    Ly93uuBl.jpg

    Total cost for materials? $0

     

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    Pretty recent pic.

     

     

     

     

  6. Thanks for the tips guys! I think the previous owner did the clutch recently - I'll ask him... But yea good call - I will do it all while I'm in there. Probably drop the bars too, as I wouldnt mind replacing the bolts, they are FREAKING long and keep getting caught on stuff - as I have them cranked up so damn high to fit the muddies.

     

    The LED strip is SO flipping nice, Its just a roll of this stuff, except I got warm white, as I hate the cool white... I wired it through a pushbutton switch that fit perfectly in a hole in the bonnet, through a fuse to the battery. Ran the wire up the channel and bing bang boom job done! I also stuck a 1m or so strip running from the dome light on the inside to the back of the car, and wired it in to where the bulb in the dome light used to sit. So now the entire car lights up like day time - and it draws almost nothing!

     

    I'll order a new set of bearings and seals. Sigh... I just did a new distributer and coil and tires and fabbed a set of 2.2mx1m roofracks - will it ever end? Nope!

    • Like 1
  7. Hey guys! I'm back!

     

    Its been a hectic few months at work... So very little pathy time. But I have been able to get out bush pretty much every weekend! A few pics...

     

    CVh2t5Dl.jpg

    strip of LEDs under the bonnet. Do it.

     

    6GlOd1Vl.jpg

    Some of you may have seen this already - but good times!!!

     

    dqnmqAMl.jpg

    Just a bit of Australian hill top! (and my old road tyres)

     

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    Babes, guns and Pathfinders. Good weekend!

     

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    Bag call trying this alone. We got out, but barely!!!

     

    ptcnCETl.jpg

    Using a pathy to hold up a tarp!

     

    6nmuNpul.jpg

    Sometimes it snows in Australia...

     

     

    Now onto business. When I touch the clutch - I mean even touch it... it starts making this grinding sound. Not high pitch, not consistent (it makes it consistently, but the sound changes and jumps around) Sounds metallic, and makes me think of bearings. When the clutch isnt being touched, or its in gear and moving - all good. But only when I'm on the clutch.

    Throw out bearing? Pilot bearing? Are those hard to replace? Any idea?!

     

    Thanks legends.

     

    Taylor

  8.  

    The computer you can cover with plastic and tape it up to waterproof it for next time you go into the bog.

     

    Some nice MT tyres would be my first investment...lol. Really cool bumper...does it already have a spot for a winch?

     

    I have 5x 32" MT's that I'll be putting on just as soon as I pass all the government inspections and shizzle that this country demands! Hopefully I'll get the beads fixed tomorrow, and pass the final inspection today. Fingers crossed.

     

    Bumper had no winch mount, but I can probably hack one in. Question on that - the winche, I'd imagine needs to bolt directly to the chassis, my bull bar is 3mm aluminium - I cant imagine it being strong enough to hold the winch. Am I missing some steps there? Any recomendation on capacity? I'm thinking something ~ 2000kg but I just made that number up...

     

    Good call with waterproofing the comp, I need to do that and the dizzy.

  9. Looks like fun! Surprising the computer didn't get swamped.

     

     

    The computer is under the seat yea? That whole area was fully under water... It didnt seem to miss a beat!

     

    Tyres are 31", all four are different. Glad y'all like the purple!!

  10. So my best mate had his bucks party out in the bush last weekend, and a few of use went out for a bit of a rip after the festivities and camping. I decided I had to put my new pathfinder to the test! So we found this big mud hole out some God forsaken track, and I went for it.

    Well I picked a bad line, and slipped off the bank/centre of the track RIGHT into some hectic ruts.

     

    It took my mate warping his rotor and burning out his clutch in his Subaru to get me out... Didnt even have a snatch, so I sat in the flooded car for 40 mins trying not to let it die, as he ran to borrow a cable from a farm down the road.

     

    Besides the dizzy filling with water, and not figuring out why I was only running on 2 cylinders until I was a few hours down the road (is the distributor rotor supposed to be all charred?) the car is fine! A bit soggy, but what a champ.

     

    WLiawaUl.jpg

     

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    Cant wait for next time! Note to self - buy a winch, or at least a snatch strap... and check puddles.

     

    Full video coming soon.

  11. I have been looking at roof racks, and I'm shocked at the prices... But then I thought heck, I'm a pretty good welder! I'll make my own. I'm thinking 20mm square tube steel, I dont want the back (or front really...) closed off, so I can slide timber and whatnot up there. As much as I like the 4x4 racks, it needs to be dual purpose.

     

    I'm thinking something along these lines, with square mesh (not expanded steel) and some mounts on the sides for shovel and jack. Just because that looks cool. (I guess they are handy sometimes too...)

    jaram.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=131

     

    But I want to put it to you guys, what have you seen that's worth duplicating? Any ideas for mounting points on the front half of the truck? I'd like it to be a full 2400mm long.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Taylor

     

  12. Looks like Redpath pretty well covered it. :aok:

     

    One bit to throw in about #4, though. I've had the 4x light on my '95 stay on with the lever in 2H, and it turned out that the transfer case had stuck in 4H, and stayed there for a while before disengaging. My understanding is that the shifter pushes the engagement sleeve bit into 4H and a spring makes it pop back into 2H when you shift out, probably so that it won't disengage under load and damage something, and the mechanism can hang up sometimes. I changed the fluid in my transfer case and haven't had a problem with it since.

     

    Good to know! Cheers. I probably should change those soon...

  13. 1: Check belt tensions, may be that they need replaced. Never used it myself but a can of belt dressing may also help reduce squeal... but checking tension comes first. Also make sure that the idler pulley (if there is one) is moving freely.

     

    Yea. The free pulley bracket is bent, and when I tried to loosen tension on it I broke the bolt off... The pulley looks straight enough, but the whole assembly is pretty bad! Should have guessed that was suspect. Time to fab another bracket!!

     

    2: Does it stop when pressing the brakes? If so it may be that one or more are dragging I had a rear drum drag once, it gets VERY hot when driving and is something to identify and correct if it is.

    b: Does it do it when you are not in motion but the engine is running? Check the fan shroud and see if it is rubbing. Check all moving parts... don't get your sleeve caught in anything!

     

    I'll check on that - I'll feel behind it after driving a bit and see if one of the drums is too hot. It only does it when in motion - I have no fan shroud, and I cant see it rubbing on anything in there... So I reckon its brakes. Good call.

     

     

    4: Are you sure your not still in 4HI? (See #6 for more info) If it is in two wheel drive then the switch could be sticking, it should be in the transfercase.

    5: When you need/may need 4wd, otherwise leave them unlocked. Leaving them locked when 4WD is not in use just increases ware on the front drive components.

    Hubs (Manual or Auto locking) connect and disconnect the wheel from the axle. Unlocked they spin freely like a 2WD front end, locked they are physically connected to the CV shafts/axles and thus the front diff, Front driveline and transfercase.

    6: Push down ;) Actually this is a common question and problem for people new to Nissan. Please See this thread Guys don't kill me, a 4x4 turning on question, HELP I can't go 4hi, only down

     

    Legend!! That explanation of locking hubs is so much better than what wikipedia offered me. Makes perfect sense. So 4wd hi with the hubs unlocked is basically the same as 2wd, just more moving parts that don't need to be moving! I'm a dumbass - that's hilarious that its a push down!!! Never would have tried that. That thread you linked is pure gold - the rage is hilarious - thanks.

     

    I'll be in Oregon around xmas probably, and I'd love to shout you a beer - you are most helpful mate!!

  14. I got the water pump in, brakes fixed, fog lights wired up, battery mounted, thermostat installed, coolant changed, brake fluid and power steering filled (they were bone dry!) And I have been driving my new friend to work!

     

    But I am having a couple little issues - thought I'd run them past you guys.

     

    1. When I first start driving when the car is cold, I get some serious belt squeal when accelerating, or compression braking. Serpentine belt loose?

    2. When driving near a wall (like in an alley) with the window open, I can hear a faint metal on metal sound. My first thought is disk brakes? Sounds a bit like a metal fan rubbing something... Doesnt change frequency with acceleration, only with vehicle speed. Cant hear it at high speed.

    3. Same as #2, but when close to a wall I hear ticking, not bad ticking... but ticking.

    4. 4wd light doesnt turn off when in 2wd. weirds me out, and I am always making sure I'm in 2wd. Is the switch for that light in the case or on the lever? It flickers while driving in 2wd, and stays solid when in 4wd, so I'm guessing a busted switch.

    5. Hub locks. I have them on the front - when do I use them?! How are they different from diff lockers?

    6. My 4wd stick says 2WH, 4WH, N, 4WL - but I can only get it to move between 2WH and 4WH. Any idea why?

     

    Thanks friends!! Here are a few pics.

     

    With my 33" tyres that the truck came with!! Right on!

     

    B2amXOfl.jpg

     

    broken coolant bypass thingo

     

    RZb0HGjl.jpg

     

    fixed coolant bypass thingo...

     

    qcNIFW6l.jpg

     

    Road tyres

     

    TpDngCrl.jpg

     

     

  15. Nah it wasnt those. It was this guy, which took a tremendous amount of googleing to figure out what it was! Appologies for my poor explanation - I was a bit flustered.

     

    $(KGrHqV,!jEE+FSE64jZBP9jnZKlQQ~~60_35.J

     

    Turns out I cant be stuffed ordering one and waiting around. So I made a new one...

     

    Its an ugly sucker...

    Sk3vt1Vl.jpg

     

    Found some scrap pipe at the shop

     

    c3jPCeMl.jpg

     

    Was out of argon, so I used MIG gas on the TIG. Worked well enough for me! I'm not great at welding out pipe anyway.

     

    BnEsJADl.jpg

     

    Welded out and cleaned up a bit

     

    Vk7tT4Yl.jpg

     

    Hit it with cold galv inside and out, to possibly slow down the rust. One of the little pipes was stainless, but the other and the filler is mild steel.

     

    It's installed and works a treat!! Went out for a test drive and my brakes dont work. But I'll make another post for that...

     

    Cheers,

     

    Taylor

     

    • Haha 1
  16. Alright! Water pump went fine - no biggie! The thermostat was a good call, as It didnt have one in there before!

     

    But when I was refilling the coolant, it started pouring out from the back of the engine. POURING. I tracked it down to a ~25mm brass coloured stem that sticks into the manifold down below the carby... the heater coil runs into it, and then into the engine. Does this ring a bell? What in the heck is it... one of the outlet pipes on it is completely rusted apart.

     

    Any idea what it is, and if I can just bypass it? :/

  17. You forgot beer! :lol:

     

    Don't rush, make sure the gasket surface is clean before install, after refilling if possible park your truck on some form of incline with the front end being uphill (don't need to be a mountain, just not level). It will help with bleeding air out of the coolant system (I've never used the bleeder on the upper hose on mine)

     

     

    How could I!!! Include a beer break between each of those steps.

     

    Thanks for the confirmation, and the sweet tilty air bleed tip.

     

    Fingers crossed the parts arrive today... I gotta get under the bonnet of this beast!!

  18. I have read the service manual bits covering water pump, and not getting heaps of info. I think I know what to do, but wondering if anyone has any suggestions or pro tips for me I would much appreciate!

     

    My plan is...

     

    1. Drain the coolant

    2. Find the water pump

    3. Remove any hoses or anything

    4. take it off

    5. Scrape the gasket @!*% off

    6. Put gasket on new pump and install using torque specs in FSM

    7. refill coolant and cross my fingers?

     

    Am I missing anything crucial in there?

     

    Cheers

  19. Sorry taylorhayis, I never had to replace anything on the engine for the 10 years I had it, so I'm no help there. I did run across this...

    So it sounds like your motor set up is factory. Number of plugs shouldn't affect the water pump though, so it should be the same part spanning a few years.

     

    All good. New water pump should be here today, stuck a 550cca battery in it last night and fired it up! SHE'S ALIVE! This weekend I'll do the pump and thermostat and fingers crossed pass a roadworthy! (Gotta take off the 33's to pass...)

     

    Bloody Australian laws. I remember my first pathy, I met the girl in a Wallmart parking lot in the states, gave her some cash, drove off and went for a rip. No inspections at all...

  20. PDF works but the ZIP is still returning the same MD5 I listed above. Even downloaded it on my phone and the MD5 is identical.

     

     

    My goodness! Try again, I compressed it again and replaced the original link. (filename inside the zip changed, hence new MD5 on my end)

    MD5 (89_Z24_FSM.zip) = f845969384bfcc6eca50913a52c5038d
    
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