PathyAndTheJets
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Posts posted by PathyAndTheJets
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You should have the old refrigerant recovered professionally, and make sure you let them know that you suspect 134a mixed with the r12, so they don't ruin a good keg. An AC shop should have a refrigerant identifier and can confirm that for you too.
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Mine has a slight front seal leak, and the dirt/oil combo was tapping on the pulley as it spun, cleaned it up and it was quiet.
You can tell if it's low on charge if you see bubbles or "flock" (industry term) after the compressor has been running for a few seconds. It's normal right after it cycles, but should dissipate.
You'll definitely want to replace the dryer, and the other O Rings in the system before you convert to 134a. The molecules are a lot smaller and tend to leak more than R12.
For a fresh charge you have to pull the system into a vacuum as well, which also doubles as a check for the seals, it should hold vacuum for at least 10 minutes, otherwise you're just going to blow the refrigerant out.
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I usually use Valvoline MTF syncro. At least after I found it. First change was with Royal Purple... my wallet still hurts from that.
If I wheeled an auto I'd put gear lube in the tcase, absorbs shock better than the ATF.
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It's over by the battery on mine. Blue relay. I'm not sure why it's not in there with the others.
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Yeah, got burned with my Pathfinder. Spent 3 hours changing the starter, luckily I got a good deal on a re-manufactured starter so I was only out 50 bucks. It was the starter cut out relay next to the battery. I think its only on manuals though.
Also, another note on not wasting money, go to Nissan for the relays, the aftermarket ones are junk. Mine went out after 3 months, took it apart to see what was up, and the thing was just an ISO relay soldered to a circuit board to re-route the contacts to the OE locations. That wasn't really the problem, they just didn't put any sort of silastic or even hot glue to hold the pins in place, so all the solder joints broke.
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Try tapping the starter with a hammer, might jostle the brushes back into position.
It's not a fun job so I'd absolutely condemn it before pulling it out.
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Did the cleanest oil change so far. Stuck some oil absorbent mat on top of the starter, that stuff soaked up almost all the oil i spilled out of the filter.
Filter relocation is still in the future though.
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Mankato checking in!
Might try picking up a noid light set to be sure the injectors are pulsing correctly, as well. Handy tool to have anyway.
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The only issue I've had with u joints is dropping the needles trying to put them in. And the last time I did them it was with $8 duralast joints. Weird that the Spicer joints gave you trouble though.
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Spare u-joints is definitely a jeep thing. They have straps that hold 'em in so they're a lot easier to change, just need a ratchet, sockets and a hammer, since only two caps are press fit. In my experience with jeep guys, they don't pay attention to driveshaft angle when they lift their Jeeps 4 inches, and that is why they blow out their u-joints so frequently.
I put zerks on one side on the back joint, and opposite on the front joint, because while it may be negligible, i like the symmetry.
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Theoretically, yes. But, if something caused the lifters to fail so catastrophically, then other bits in the engine are probably damaged as well.
Hydraulic lifters, as equipped in a pathfinder, use oil pressure to keep them lifting, so to speak. If you lose oil pressure, they will collapse. So,either you aren't building oil pressure, which is basically worst case scenario, or you have excessive wear from water in the oil, as water is not a lubricant and allowed the lifters to wear excessively. If your lifters are worn because of the water, its a safe assumption to think that many other things have also worn due to lack of lubrication, yes?
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Looks clean! You could always wrap the lines in heat tape, or something of the like, but a metal heat shield would protect them from rocks and such, so that might still be the better route.
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Got pics?
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Yeah, thats what hes getting at, if the lifters failed like that, where they can't hold any significant amount of oil pressure, that engine is probably done. Any wear surfaces, like your main and rod bearings are probably wiped out too. That or you had your pickup tube full of schmoo and blocked it and starved the engine of oil.
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Did you Max out the torsion bars?
You might need the lift UCAS to get the camber taken care of.
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My 88 doesn't have a check engine light.
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Any codes?
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My handbrake also works great.
Try adjusting yours? Maybe your drums are out of spec.
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Clutch fan stuck on?
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75w90 or 80w90.gear oil.
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Full fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine for a few seconds.
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Try pulling the door lock fuse or relay, or unhook neg on battery and try to manually unlock then.
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That was my bad. Reading comprehension is weak today.
I bet you're right then, 4 pinion open c200. I'd think that even a toasted LSD should turn both back wheels the same way when its off the ground in neutral.
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+1
Parts store guys are dumb. I don't even think they're different auto to manual IIRC
New member, old Pathfinder
in New People Start Here!
Posted
I use imgur, you should be able to copy the bbcode link from the menu on the picture, and paste in into the thread and it'll load like this: