johann_peralta
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Posts posted by johann_peralta
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I have no idea. I'm just doing one thing at a time for now. I need to get back under it and finish welding all the spots I couldn't reach before while it was in the shed, and finish the small things first
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Finally got it moving on its own power.. Pretty excited!
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On 6/26/2019 at 8:14 PM, jlduthie said:
This is fantastic. Out of my scope but amazing work!
Thank you. I'm no pro or have I ever done something like this before. It's a learning experience for sure.
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On 6/21/2019 at 9:19 AM, XPLORx4 said:
Why did you have to weld two pieces in?
I originally added one piece in and then realized I forgot to keep the u joints in phase, so it was cut and put back together in phase.
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sleeved and extended the driveshaft about 3.5"
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maybe these will work..
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35 minutes ago, mjotrainbrain said:
I can click those links and see the pics, but in neither thread can I see your most recent embedded photos (and scrolling up I notice I can't see all of your previous photos anymore, although a good number of them I can). Personally I use Imgur (because it's been around long enough that I trust it to continue to stick around), people use other sites with great success (I believe Flickr is another one; just don't use PhotoBucket!).
That rig looks like a beast in the pics with the big tires bolted on! Any driveshaft binding when rolling it around?
dang.. it's weird because I can see them all.
I haven't built the driveshaft yet, but I'm confident it won't bind. The front will more than likely get a CV joint by the axle and a cardan joint at the tcase.
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https://cdn1.imggmi.com/uploads/2019/6/10/1d3ad581e99065f9783a7a8d5cc1a959-full.jpg
https://cdn1.imggmi.com/uploads/2019/6/10/8e7a0574374980022ff8daa0dfa84eca-full.jpg
https://cdn1.imggmi.com/uploads/2019/6/10/8b62acef25ff0cd20e282a12847ebddc-full.jpg
https://cdn1.imggmi.com/uploads/2019/6/10/c315a939290a129a069ee7ab8e938bf8-full.jpg
Hopefully these work... What site do you use to make pics into a URL?
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slowly coming together.. put the tires on and rolled it around a little
here is a side by side to 12" lift on the green r50 (35s). white is on 31s in the front here.
still have lots to do here and there..
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Ended up going with spacers and longer coils. Maybe down the road ill switch it up.
Got it back on the ground, but still lots to do: lower trailing arms, extend driveshaft, panhard bracket, brake line and a bunch of small things here and there.
Rear bumpers is going soon after, going to make a rear bumper to add the carrier to.
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On 5/11/2019 at 10:49 AM, RainGoat said:
Nice work! It’s very interesting to see that new carrier. You might well be the only one on the road in the U.S. I’ve certainly never seen one before.
In central Florida I've seen 3. One the first time I saw one I thought it was custom made.
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Here is what I spent this afternoon doing. I mocked up the 3/16" brackets for the lower trailing arms. The bolts are in temporarily and they are just there to hold the bracket in position while I welded some of it in. Unfortunately, In the shed I'm working in, there is literally less than a foot on the side of the car, and it's not ideal to do work like that. These brackets are not done, nor fully installed.
The plan is to box the brackets in, and once the rear end is done I can push the car out of the shed. Once out, I can get better access to the brackets and weld them in fully.
Also, For anyone interested in installing longer trailing arms, the uppers from a jeep JK fit as extended uppers on the Pathfinder. The lowers, not so much...
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18 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
The geometry of the trailing arms does have an effect on how the suspension moves. The uppers are shorter than the lowers, so the axle housing rotates a bit as the suspension cycles (like how camber changes with ride height in an IFS). This also means that when you apply torque to the axle, the suspension pushes it up or down. If it's set up right, the rear suspension effectively firms up when you get on the gas, preventing the back of the truck from squatting. This is called anti-squat (creative name, right?). Messing with the angles of the links would change the effect somewhat; whether it would be enough to matter on an SAS'd truck on 40s, I don't know (and it's not like your rear suspension angles were stock to begin with). I'd be more concerned about the extended axle brackets or the upper links hitting the body when the suspension is compressed.
To be honest, I don't know much about the topic. I did use a link arm length calculator for the front (I have to admit I had no idea how the algorithm works, but I just did as was directed by the website). For the rear, I'm not worried about the links hitting the body. The links are essentially in the same location as originally, the rear end won't have crazy flex or anything so it should be fine (I hope lol). But, thanks for the suggestion, and I will keep an eye out for any hitting on the first tests.
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20 hours ago, Bax03SE said:
That bracket is interesting and might not be a bad starting point. I can see your reasoning for bringing the axle mount up instead of the body mount down and actually don’t think it’s totally crazy, lol. What are you going to do for the lower arm mount? I’m just thinking in order to keep the upper and lower arms in relative alignment with each other, they both need to be either raised or lowered from the same side. I. E. either lower both at the body or raise both at the axle. Or maybe it doesn’t really matter so much if they’re not kept in stock alignment with each other...idk.
Yes of course! That is what I spent this afternoon doing. You beat me to it. This afternoon I mocked up the lower trailing arm drop brackets! I'll post pictures in a sec.
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On 5/15/2019 at 6:02 PM, Bax03SE said:
Congrats on graduation! Looking forward to seeing some progress on this project. I still think it may be best to fabricate something to bring the whole upper spring perch down lower instead of just relying on taller springs and spacers. I just would worry about the lack of stability from a spring and spacer combination as tall as what it looks like you would need. Moving the upper perch would also let you customize it to line up straight with the new axle location so you don’t end up with too much arch in the springs.
Thank you!
maybe something like this but with the actual perch lower down.. https://www.artecindustries.com/TJ_rear_coil
Instead of bringing the upper trailing arm mount down, I'm bringing the mount on the axle up. The gas tank is seriously in the way for doing any sort of work up there and I do not want to lower the tank. The plan is to fill the front and back with another piece of 3/16 and burn them in to strengthen the bracket. Not my brightest idea, but it beats dropping the tank IMO.
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On 5/15/2019 at 6:02 PM, Bax03SE said:
Congrats on graduation! Looking forward to seeing some progress on this project. I still think it may be best to fabricate something to bring the whole upper spring perch down lower instead of just relying on taller springs and spacers. I just would worry about the lack of stability from a spring and spacer combination as tall as what it looks like you would need. Moving the upper perch would also let you customize it to line up straight with the new axle location so you don’t end up with too much arch in the springs.
Thank you!
maybe something like this but with the actual perch lower down.. https://www.artecindustries.com/TJ_rear_coil
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Finished my thesis and graduated, so decided to buy myself a plasma cutter as a graduation gift to myself. Ended up cutting out the 4 link brackets yesterday for the rear end. Hopefully tomorrow I'll start getting them mocked up, maybe even tacked in. Stripping the Nissan underlining in tight areas, especially on the stock brackets where the ends are bend outwards is a pain in the rear.
I still haven't decided on what to do for the springs... Need springs that are at least 10" longer, or need to incorporate spacers and longer springs. Ideas?
what needs to be done still: 4 link brackets, panhard relocation bracket, longer brake line & breather, figure out what to do to lengthen driveshaft..
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Are you are talking about adding a stabilizer like the straight axle cars use?
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got the 40s mounted. Sorry in advance if the picture is rotated. I have no idea how to upload pictures here. I have to use other websites to upload bc this site has a tiny size limit when directly adding pictures. I use a third party that makes the picture into a link, and the link shows up as a picture.
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On 4/25/2019 at 2:47 PM, mandersen8 said:
I will provide a full write up once I have finished.
I have started a 6" SFD with a 6" lift
Items used:
- AC coils 2" lift
- OME struts
- F250 pro comp shock
- WJ coils for rear
- SFD blocks and spacer
Have some question for those of you who have done this
- anyone run into transmission cross member hitting?
- What brand of break line have you used?\\
- Who would want a SFD 4" or 6" taking a poll to see what the need is maybe building and sell them soon
Will post picture shortly.
I knotched my corssmember a little bit to clear the DS, but then again i have a different setup than just a 6" sfd.
As far as building them goes, unless you have a superior design to the one that's coming out soon, id recommend straying from the market. In my experience, 1 out of the 50 people that messages you and says they are definitely interested in buying and will do so soon, will actually buy. Be weary when taking a poll, because you'll get lots of interest, but hardly anyone follows through. I believe this is because these kits run a good amount of money (a full sfd is going to run around 1000$+) and generally people who drive pathfinders do so for a reason (because they are probably on a budget and the car fit the budget).
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18 hours ago, deltaR50 said:
40 inches tires on a 20 inches rims. damn your vg33 would hate you so bad.
yeah I can imagine it is not going to want to roll around easily. The end goal is to locate some 4.9 gears from a frontier/xterra and match the front with 4.88.
13 hours ago, Snowboarder12345 said:Hope you can find the time to get your rear end sorted out! I know the feeling for sure. You hit a bit of a wall and think "Well, looks like I've got other things I need to do anyways this week..." and the next thing you know it's been 6 months since you've even looked at it.
Yes! This is my senior year and I'm in the thick of it. Taking biochem, bio, physics 2, and writing a thesis. I'm also studying for my graduate exams at the same time. Its a handful for sure. I'm taking microbio, cell bio, and med chem over the summer so we'll see how much more free time I get over the summer. Hoping to knock it out as soon as possible though. The hard part is already done lol
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I found some used tires that were so cheap I couldn't say no, even though they weren't the size I was looking for. 40x15.5x20 Nitto trail grabbers. Something is probably going to break, but that's ok. Gives me a reason to fix it and make it better the next time around.
Now I'm on the lookout for some rims.
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1 ton SAS
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Taking what I learned from the last SAS build, I decided that I wanted to Straight axle swap the 12" green pathfinder. So far I picked up the axles, links, heims, and started to build the cradle. The end goal is to make it street-able, so I won't be cutting corners to save as much money as possible like I did on the last SAS. Hopefully will be picking up a set of coilovers and a set of air shocks tomorrow. Here are some pictures of the progress.
Here's the front axle, out of a 00 F350
Here's the rear axle, out of a 02 f350
Here's the metal that will become the cradles sides and the motor mounts
Here's the little plasma cutter I got on amazon for 190$+-. It cuts 1/4 pretty well I'd say. Only down side is that having a smaller compressor, I have to stop frequently and let it fill up.
Drilling Holes for the 4 link
This is what is inside the cradle sides before getting welded and trimmed up.
Here's the finished product before paint. Once the sides are on, Ill tie them together.