RCWD21
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Posts posted by RCWD21
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I have 6 remaned injectors coming in from rockauto hopefully Monday that I'm going to install and hopefully it'll solve all of my issues.
At this point everything but the TPS and ECU will have been swapped.
My crappy Chinese injectors were too rich, these used oem ones seem to be lean, and hopefully the rockauto ones will be right on the money lol
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Its gotten so bad on there. And I'll try a link to my post and I have another video I took this morning of how the vg33 injectors are doing.
Fb link: https://m.facebook.com/groups/NPORA/permalink/10160270193930129/?mibextid=Nif5oz
Here's a link to the vid from this morning. To add to things, there's no dark smoke or smell of flooding with fuel. Just a touch rich from the engine being cold still.
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The light flashes about the same speed as the turn signals do maybe a touch slower. I have a video of it but obviously can't post it on here. The donor vehicle was a 91 and I've been through the entire harness adding in intermittent wipers and cruise control and removing ABS and the rear door wiring. I never modified the engine side of the harness except for the vg33 injector connectors.
I did post the vid in the NPORA group on fb though.
As for the injectors I replaced one with another seemingly new injector I had found in a u pull it yard. It appears to be OEM as well luckily and it runs a bit better and I can even reach the rev limiter for the first time since I bought the rig back in 2015.
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Wiring checks good and no its got a 125 amp alternator from a quest installed since I run a winch and lights, etc. I do suspect that it may be a flaky relay on the inner passenger side fender (that tiny 3 pin one) the mpfi donor had 310k on it so there was definitely lots of use on everything.
I've unfortunately had to sideline this issue as I'm chasing my tail trying to resolve a misfire that comes and goes below 3500rpm. I've swapped everything except the ECU, TPS, O2 sensor, and Igniter chip.
It also dropped to 5 cylinders on me on my way to our shop today so I need to make sure an injector hasn't quit on me. I got some oem used ones from a vg33 so I could have the newer connector after fighting with cheap ebay ones that were just way too big on fuel delivery.
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Just recently did a mpfi swap on my 87 and everything has been fine until I swapped to some different injectors.
After that amd at random (2 or 3 times so far) when I turn my key on the battery light will flash and the small 3 pin main relay under the hood on the passenger fender will click in unison with it.
I can start the engine normally and everything works still its just the relay clicking and battery light flashing that worry me.
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Just do a regular oil change, there's no need to stress over the tiny amount of oil left in the pan after draining the oil
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Well, I've already converted the 91s dash harness to feed the 87 cluster (I really like it and the 91 cluster was really sun faded and the speedo needle us crispy curly).The service manuals confirm what you've found with the wiring. The '87 manual shows the white wire from the tach going through a 2.2k ohm resistor to the + side of the coil. The '90 manual shows the white wire going to the computer, then a white/green wire going from the computer, through the same 2.2k resistor, again to the + side of the coil. So, yeah, sounds like the TBI system runs the tach right off the coil, while the MPFI runs it off a signal generated (or at least modified in some way) by the computer.
If you're married to/stuck with the '87 cluster, you could cut the white wire from the computer to the tach, tape up the end going to the computer, and splice the end going to the tach into the white/green wire. That would give the TBI tach the signal it expects.
Or, if you'd rather modify the cluster than hack up the harness, you may be able to swap just the tach from the MPFI cluster into the TBI cluster. The drawings of the clusters in the two manuals are not quite identical, but they are very close. I would not be surprised if the tachs interchanged mechanically. I would however be a little nervous about swapping the plastic needle from one to the other to make the tach look at home (I'm assuming the '87 is orange and the '91 is white).
If the tach itself is the same between the two clusters, but has different control circuitry, and that circuitry is easily separated from the tach, maybe you could just swap that circuitry from one tach to the other and leave the rest alone. If that pans out, you could basically convert the TBI tach to an MPFI tach, and get the job done without hacking up the harness or prying on a 36-year-old plastic tach needle.
Or, yeah, if you don't mind the look of the '91 cluster, save yourself some screwing around and just huck that in there.
I've made up a little breakout harness to feed the TBI tach directly off the cluster and BOTH my TBI tachs dont respond sadly.
Do you think they're dead from powering them via the MPFI wiring coming from the ECU? Everything else in the cluster works and I can even plug in the 91 tach and it works.
Unfortunately the tachs themselves are completely different design wise being that one is back lit and the other is the crappy front lit needle. Also the spacing and center hole for the face plate is slightly different.
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I just got done swapping my 87 over to mpfi (was a 91 donor) and need some help with the tach from the TBI setup not working.
The MPFI tach works just fine when plugged in.
Are the signals different between the TBI and MPFI? I have 2 clusters from TBI models and neither of them will work. Only the original MPFI tach will work. I've seen that the wire that would normally go directly to the tach on the TBI setup goes over to the MPFI ECU and then over to the tach. Its pin 2 and 3 on the ECU and when testing with a multimeter I dont get continuity across those pins.
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Yea, the rubber was so bad the inner sections popped right out.You pounded out the old bushings with a rubber mallet? And I’d love a link to the bushings
And here's a link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/172769763848
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That would be mine then, and its actually very thick tubing meant for fuel, oil, and engine bay type temps.What ever engine has the clear tubing
It doesn't even collapse under full vacuum from a vacuum pump unless its heated to the point of it being malleable.
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Are you talking about on mine or the OP's?I would suggest getting rid of that clear tubing, possibly the vacuum is sucking it closed, you need to be using vacuum lines.
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Is the area you're going to be running in hilly, bumpy, or otherwise steep? A carb off road even with antislosh kits in my experience are no where near as good as tbi or mpfi. Better fueling, no flooding, starts faster and runs cleaner. Not to mention if you ever roll it you wont have gas pouring everywhere all over everything.So the plan for this weekend is to re TDC the 1st Cly and make sure the rotor is pointed in the right direction. After doing more reading in the FSM looks like the rotor was pointing to far to the right (guessing it may have been put in one tooth off....)
After getting all of that resolved then im going to go pick up a cheap compression tester from Harbor Freight, and check the compression for my next project
If compression is good I think I will do a Weber Carb conversion found one for $450 will the regulator and all adapter plates. Once thats on I can remove all vacuum pretty much, and remove some of the stupid sensor so the ECM will run in loop and I should get a power boost plus I know carbs way better then TBI.
What are your guys thoughts?
I'd personally get it running right and run it with the tbi system, you'd be surprised how torquey it is and how good it runs when you really need it.
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That's what mine started doing you could dump the clutch from an idle and the axle would shift a good inch or so.
Do you think it would be a good idea to replace the panhard bar bushings as well? It's just those 2 spots and every single bushing will have been replaced lol
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It's amazing how much different it rides with those bushings replaced. Theres still play in the steering box but over all it's much more predictable when on the road now since the back isn't going in an opposing direction through a dip or bumpThe original ones would have looked like that when they were new 30 years ago
I'm in Ontario Canada, probably not worth the shipping lol
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A broken or shorted wire will surely do it! Make sure all your connections are clean and you should be good to go as as long as the sensors and connections are in good shape.Ha I think I found what was giving me a code 13!. Was looking over where the sensors harness connects to the vehicle harness and noticed a break in the line on the harness side. Replaced a small section of wire so hopefully that's what was tripping that because that break was right by one of the metal wire holders.
Also I just want to say thank you again for all your help!! This is the first time I have went this far into timing, and it's been a breeze thanks to your advice.
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And no problem, that's what we're all here for
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You dont have to, just use the cotton ball trick to make sure piston number 1 is at tdc on its compression stroke and then check your cam marks again.And that means removing the bottom cover huh
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They dont line up perfectly to the timing cover but they'll be really close to them.
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Yes you're good there. The next question is, is the crank in the right position your cams could be good but you could be a tooth off on the crankSo with 40 between the cams am I good there?Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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That's not a problem when checking the cams lol it just makes double checking the distributor easier since it's already lined up mechanicallyCrap... I forgot to tdc it. Haven't had my coffee yet
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Well if your timing belt is correct rotate it over to tdc on #1 and make sure your rotor is facing the number 1 spark plug lead for the cap. If not that would be the other part of your timing issues.
Just to give you an idea of the distributor orientation. If you're one tooth off on the distributor you might not be able to get it over to where it needs to be to be timed correctly.
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Got all my trailing arm bushings replaced. The upper link bushings popped out with a rubber mallet of all things...
Also I found a kit on ebay for all 8 for about $80 if anyone else is about to do this. Got them in 3 days and they're much beefier looking than what was in mine originally.
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That looks several teeth off to me. Are there 40 teeth between those 2 dimples on the cam sprockets? If not there's the majority of your problem with it running like crap lol
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True lol but in the same sense theres no point in over paying either. I mean in the long run I'll probably never need an lsd up front or even a locker for that matter. Just having one in the rear is already worlds better than an open diff.That's the wrong way of thinking about it though. If you're going to build a rig from an offroading perspective, you shouldn't look at it from the price you can buy another truck from. If you are building it to keep for years to come, it's a small price to pay. And if you can't afford to buy one after even after saving for a few months, then it's probably not a sport you can afford lol. @!*% breaks and it can get expensive.
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Code 13 is the coolant temp sensor for the engine. It's on the driver side head just behind and to the inner side of the upper timing cover. If you look straight down near the distributor you'll see it facing forward horizontally in that general area.
Most times it's the connector and/ or wiring that causes issues. Heres a kit from rockauto that gives you the sensor, and a new connector. It's not listed for the 87 to 89 models but the same sensor and connector are used on the 90+ models and a ton of other Nissans as well.
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No doubtArb being everybodys dream locker
that price tho ..
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$1k is 2nd pathfinder territory
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OK dumb question but here goes...What should my tire pressure actually be?
in General Forums
Posted
The 26 psi is the spec for that vehicle. The 44 psi is the max pressure at the max rated load for those tires.
Stick close to 26 psi and you'll be just fine. If you feel 26 is a bit too soft then you can bump the pressure up a few psi and see how it does. But be sure to check your tire tread wear pattern to make sure you're getting even wear across the face of the tread.