CO_pathfinder

way late reply, my bad. Thanks for the input man, totally solved the issue. Now to deal with the timing belt and the smashed radiator that is blocking my access....

I mean, people with all kinds of cars have this issue, it is hardly a Pathfinder specific problem. You say that you checked for parasitic draw into the system and found none? Not sure how you are losing battery charge then... how did you test for the parasitic draw? Also, is your Pathy equipped with the security system?

No offense taken, anything that you and 90% of the other people on this forum have more knowledge about pathfinders and what can and needs to be done is more than the knowledge that I have myself. I really appreciate the support guys. I'll call up my relatives, see if I can get some loans from them to get the repair done, so that I can repay them when I have the money.

Anybody available in the next month that can help with a timing belt change, or knows a place and can hook me up on it? I have a sense of urgency here, if you know what I mean. Thanks

Have oodles of friends in ROTC, a few in military, but the closest bases are 75 miles away and my friends are only available on weekends, which is when I work EDIT: Good idea though, I may try to pursue this

But thank you all for confirming my fears and sense of urgency.

My thoughts exactly, though it might be enlightening to watch a boxing match between valves and pistons, with the timing belt acting as the dying referee... If I had a driveway and a weekend, I would try to find somebody to help me with it/ do it for me. Except I have no free weekends. Or week nights. Or the tools required to remove a bent radiator from an even more bent radiator support. And with ski season approaching, this is beginning to worry me even more and more

Yea, its a 91 Not to mention the fact that if it IS the original timing belt, 23 years is a LONGGGGG time for something made of rubber to survive hot/cold cycles, and the stresses of running around at 3000 rpm... And thus, f my life. I was like "ooh lets check my bank account, maybe I've got enough to dump this off at a shop and not worry about it FFFFFFFFF-no money-"

So here we go again. Another sub-100 post guy freaking out about his timing belt. I called the PO that I bought the truck from, he said he didn't do any maintenance on it during the 10k miles he had apart from oil changes (or so he says). No longer has contact info for PO before him, and records for the truck from that guy were lost in apartment fire. F********* Truck is at 78xxx miles now, and I just now realized that if it didn't get a TB change, boy oh boy.... It still has drive belts that are OEM (90's NISSAN logo printed on them), and so I'm thinking that it likely still has the factory TB. My issue in changing it myself is that most of my vehicle expertise is in suspensions and transmissions, as my dad never let me touch the engine of his 70 Chevelle as a kid, coupled with the fact that I'm in college, have no tools/place to do it myself, and am VERY short on free time. I've priced around, and the quotes on prices from shops in my state (I've priced as far away as 200 miles) range from $750 to $1250, but I know that if I could do it myself, it would cost sub-$300. This is me begging. Is there anybody, ANYWHERE in Colorado, or near Colorado that can hook me up with a deal at a shop, or even in your driveway? I am more than willing to pay for services rendered, and I just want to get this done for the sake of peace of mind. Most of the money I made this summer is already sunk into this car, and the last thing that I want to see is for it to explode on me and my investment to be totally lost..... Thanks for the help/support guys

Didn't do anything to it in particular.... except make it happy!!! Visited a junkyard that I've never been to before, mostly because their online inventory showed that they had !!!!!!!! 21 !!!!!!!!! Xterras, from which I wanted to steal a roof rack I ended up getting distracted, and came across a red 1989 Pathfinder. This isn't an uncommon thing in Colorado, to see Pathy's in the junkyard, but this one was different from all the other ones I've ever seen. You see, whoever owned this Pathfinder was a Pathfinder enthusiast, maybe even a member of this very site. How do I know this? Because of what he had done to the car. It had Warn Manual hubs on the front, the 3" body lift from Performance Accessories. It had a beautiful looking exhaust, and a goofy looking chrome rim mounted on the spare tire carrier, while the other rims it sported were black. It had newer looking blue poly bushings, and not stock-looking but not high-end looking UCA's, not to mention the fact that the vehicle had ZERO, and I mean ZEROOOOOO rust, ANYWHERE. Not even flecks of rust in the bottom of the door well, like there usually is, or in the frame above the rear suspension. However, the biggest tip-off to the fact that this Pathy was a special Pathy was this. Inscribed on the top of the gauge cluster was the phrase "Kilroy waz here." I stopped my removal of the hubs when I saw this, and took a couple of minutes to get into the car and just sit. I felt sorry for whoever had owned this Pathy, because from what I remember, it only had 190k on the clock. That, with the fact that this person had clearly cared about this car a great deal, as we all do, kind of touched me. Anyways, I grabbed an Xterra roof rack, the lower dash pocket from a 93 LE (rareeee), the cargo net from an 06, and the Warn hubs from the 89. Pics to come as I install things, and I will be routing a second CB to the roof rack, as well as running the wire for my fuzz buster along the headliner out through the mirror hole. Should be fun. **Sorry for the long post, just thought I would share my experience with you guys, and kinda hope that somebody will recognize this and knows who the person is.

defended its honor when somebody told me that it looked lopsided from behind

you da man. The search function still confuses me haha

Next time?

Way to brag Brian I'm guessing that it's probably dirt in the wheels, or the fact that I'm convinced that my rotors are warped haha. Do you know if there is any way to tighten the mirror to the body?

All I saw from your post were these two phrases. They were enough to make me actually consider tracking your IP, stealing your rig (once you've got it all finished ), and parking mine in its place. No lie. If college gave me time and left me money to do what you are doing, I would probably attempt to do the same as you so that we could collaborate on tunes and packaging of aftermarket power adders

Quick question for y'all: Does anybody else have problems with the driver side mirror at highway speeds vibrating so much that the car behind you is so blurry that you rub your eyes?

Nefarious, do you have an LSD? If so, would love to see a burnout on some $20 walmart tires to Christen the most powerful Pathy ever

You are told by mechanics that "your timing belt whine is bad, you should pay us $1000 to fix it for you" and everybody who owns a Pathfinder or is on this site tells you not to worry about it

Was just wondering where/how you guys mount your CB/ ham radios, where you run the COAX, and where/how you mount the antenna itself, and of course, what antenna you run. -For me, I removed the ashtray, cut some of the plastic with a Dremel, and then shoved the radio into the hole. -My COAX is routed down and under the pedals, behind the carpet, and down the drivers side liner (underneath the carpet). Unfortunately, you can see it poke up by the driver side seat belt bolt, because I had issues getting the passenger side one back in after wiring my speakers and amplifiers, and did not want my driver side seat belt to end up twisted and all screwed up. -It then goes through the interior brake light grille, down the fender, through a drain hole, and up and under the bumper, then inside the tail-light housing, then done. -I've got a 9' stainless steel whip, mounted on a trucker mirror mount that has been mounted just to the left of the rear window with 3/8" self tapping screws. It causes the body in that spot to flex a little bit.... The whip is mounted to a 6" chrome barrel-spring, which is WAYYYY sturdier than the last spring, which was so weak sauce that I hit a tree branch once and the whip slapped me in the arm, which was riding on the window sill. -Finally, I've got a steel whip tie down mounted to the driver side door jamb. Keeps the whip tied down like a Humvee when I'm not interested in listening to dirty trucker talk... PROCEED TO TURN YOUR LAPTOP/DESKTOP CLOCKWISE 90*

Its beautiful

Lol. lololololololol. never again will i whine about my rust...

how did you manage to break a tow hook? Those things that the wd21's have are like anchors..

They sandblast and dip with the body and stuff still assembled. Its a pretty cool process. They tape and bag cover all rubber boots and bushings, any hoses or radiators, and intakes/ports, then they sandblast the poo out of everything, high pressure air everything to remove the sand, then rebag and dip. They'll have my truck for about a week, but I used to work at the place so I get uber discount EDIT: Further clarification: by leaving the frame attached to the truck, everything that has potential to let rust begin (e-brake cable, loose bolts/ stripped threads, etc) is covered and sealed.

Yea..... I may have said that, but I do what I can as preventative measures. I've got a sandblast and frame dip undercoat scheduled for next month, just before snow is expected to fall. As far as I have been able to see when my truck was recently on a lift, the rust is manageable and this truck will run its life to 300k as expected.. until then, I will spend whatever money I have on this truck and others, because cars are my passion

This is true, but I've only had the truck for a few months, I have no money (yay college) and my truck only has 75k miles.... if you can find one with that low original miles with no rust, please take my money