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CO_pathfinder

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Posts posted by CO_pathfinder

  1. and cant be repaired by Joe Aveage.

     

    What a sad legacy we have left for our children...Sorry, I'm just rambling now.

    Most things can't be replaced/repaired by Joe now because of tech advancement. Its a good thing, I promise.

     

     

    Don't know if the starter is OE or not but its caked in oil so I would venture to guess the answer is yes. Ill give it a hammer smack and see what happens.

  2. Clarification on my issue starting - I get the "single-click no-crank" issue, which on a manual can be caused by the starter, the starter solenoid, or the starter relay (and only these things, right?) It started with a very slow crank in a parking lot, followed by half-cranks until the starter stopped responding in another parking lot.

  3. So that has to be either an injector that's stuck open or is getting an electrical signal full time keeping the injector open... I can't think of anything else that would do that!

     

     

    Went back in, and upon second inspection noticed something.. the BWD replacement injectors (along with the Hitachi OEM exact duplicates) DONT come with the 3rd of 3 O-rings. There is the ring that seals intake from injector, injector from top of fuel rail, but there wasn't a replacement O-ring for the bottom of the fuel rail leading to the intake port. Not sure if it was because of this missing O-ring or if the injector actually was bad, but the truck ran like a top after doing so. However, the rich condition caused two other things to happen:

     

    IACV is now clogged and truck doesn't like load at idle as a result - just need to degunk it.

     

    Hard cranking starts when the injector was wonky ended up killing the starter... yippee... Haven't ever even considered looking at replacing this part, so it looks like I'm going to the FSM and to the forum archives.

     

     

     

    On that last note, is the starter a job I can expect to do myself in a few weeknights after work? Or, should I pony up the $$ and make it a shop's problem. Looking for advice from those with experience.

  4. So that has to be either an injector that's stuck open or is getting an electrical signal full time keeping the injector open... I can't think of anything else that would do that!

    Considering that it didn't do this before I replaced my injectors last weekend, I'm leaning towards it being a faulty injector. Hopefully the parts store will honor some sort of warranty policy should that be the case. I'll find out this weekend

    • Like 1
  5. Pulled plug, fouled like crazy. Replaced the plug and within 20 miles it was fouled again, missing the whole time. No codes, new plug wire didn't change anything.. noticed that when I pulled the 2nd fouled plug, it was clean on one side and blackened on the other... Maybe the new injector is bad in some way?

  6. Replaced injectors , screwed up a couple of the vac lines, truck ran like... my truck. Put vac lines where they belonged, truck ran the best it ever has for me.. for one day.

     

    Current status: Hard starting and a constant miss on cylinder 3. Its spark related, as pulling the wire doesn't change the miss but does mean rich smelling exhaust (which at least means my new injector isn't buggered)

     

    Expected solution: PULL CODES FIRST, then pull the plug, regap the plug, clean the plug hole, try a different wire, clean/replace distributor. If that doesn't fix it, I might choose to kill it with fire.

     

    As always, input is always appreciated - btw, truck recently rolled past 100,000 for the first time.

     

  7. Some new noises coming from my Pathfinder but I can't tell what they are because they only occur while I'm driving. First noise is a slight grinding/metal on metal rubbing sound when I turn the wheels to the left, usually between 10-30 mph. Wheel bearing/hub?

    Second noise is a very similar noise, almost like a bad bearing, that only occurs in 3rd gear at around 3k rpm (haven't noted the speed).. How do I check my wheel bearings in my own driveway?

  8. Dropped a tin of Altoids while I was driving yesterday and they spilled everywhere. When I reached under the driver floor mat to grab a couple, I almost burned my hand the carpet was so hot. Checked underneath when I got home and lo-and-behold, the y-pipe gaskets were blown through on the top side. Replaced them (took forever), and then went a step further and wrapped my exhaust header/collector all the way back to the cat. Should deal with heat a little bit better, and the weirdness of my exhaust sound is gone now. Hopefully will get some better gas mileage, as the leak was before the O2 sensor, and maybe this will help with my rich fuel mixture. Also, changed the oil with Mobil 1 and a PureOne filter.

     

    Fun news: a friend of mine hooked me up as a surprise for helping him move with a new subwoofer/amp setup to replace the one that was stolen 2 years ago. He found a discontinued JBL W12GTi MkII 12" at a warehouse supplier (4000W power handling at 3ohm), and got me a 3000W amp with 1500W RMS handling.... Installed it at 3ohms and it frothed my gas so badly that my truck started to have issues running. So I rewired it at 12ohm, and holy cow am I impressed.

     

    Bad news: found 4 separated screws in my tire, including 1 in my sidewall. No serious issues, just annoyed by the fact that I now have to wait to drive my truck until the tire store can get a replacement in stock.

     

    Next steps: Buy new Sway-Away torsion bars and install, along with my Rancho coils, then get an actual alignment, and not one of these cheap-ass "free alignment with $100 purchase" deals.

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