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microfiz

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Posts posted by microfiz

  1. On 6/11/2020 at 5:52 AM, R50JR said:


    I completely agree with you. I don’t know what specialized was thinking with those ugly designs. Even the first gen demo was badass. Speaking of Gwin, that guy’s house in temecula is massive. I saw a red bull special on him and it was under construction. I didn’t think downhill racing paid that well.


    Sent from my Pathfinder

    Gwin had an interview where he said he clears $1M per year including endorsements.  But if you think about it, he's getting paid less than he deserves (being the fastest rider on earth) considering how much he puts on the line.  But DH is not a popular sport, so there.  

     

    Here's Gwin on your actual bike... he rode it like he stole it... lol!

     

     

    • Like 2
  2. 1 hour ago, R50JR said:

     


    Opening weekend is going to be crazy. I’ll probably get up there July midweek. Just bled the brakes so I’m good to go!

    a7e9a630eacba7d999ecef3ee9db1871.jpg


    Sent from my Pathfinder

     

    SEND IT!!!  Seriously, I love that model frame (I'll call it Sam Hill's frame) over Loic's new bike and Gwin's asymmetric frame.  \m/

  3. 6 hours ago, Strato_54 said:

    i want to get a Norco range A2 or just some sort of enduro bike. right now im a little short on my bike line up as all i have is a Norco Storm 9.2 2017 just for basic trail riding or going to the store. ive gotta save my pennies though and look through pinkbike or kijiji for something cheap but not built cheap.

    I hope you find "the bike", man.  I'm sure you already know how much avid MTBers like myself would LOVE to move to BC!  Rode Mt Seymour a few times (I have family in North Van) and Whistler once... you guys have it GREAT!  Except for the bacon.  LOL

    • Like 1
  4. On 6/1/2020 at 4:39 PM, Strato_54 said:

    Looks really good and really clean glad you were able to make it work. the matte black makes anything look cool. not to make this a bike thread but what are you running?

    Bike wise?  Like R50Jr I have a bit of a bike problem, but on the cheap end:

     

    DH Bike:  2011 Turner DHR (really my fave bike but I admittedly have not touched it in a while because of the carbon mistress, went overboard with the polishing on this one)

    https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/16787245/

    Trail/Enduro:  2018 Cannondale Jekyll (bought new for $2.7K out the door, in a box, carbon everything.  First modern bike, does everything but not anything well)

    https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/18190890/

    DJ:  Sinister Angus (hand made by FTW, I don't use this bike a lot because I'm old)

    https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/16919543/

    2007 Transition Bottlerocket (my old trail bike, handed down to my 13 yr old who doesn't ride it anyway)

    https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/18100019/

    2015 GT Zaskar (built new from frame up, for 13 yr old too since she was "supposed to race XC... that didn't happen)

    https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/17256523/

    • Like 1
  5. 2 hours ago, R50JR said:


    My big bikes are a specialized demo and a santa cruz v10. For trail riding I have a specialized enduro. I’m hoping they reopen mammoth this summer. Snow summit is cool but nothing like true alpine descents.


    Sent from my Pathfinder

    You, sir... have a bike problem (two DH bikes???).  LOL!

     

    I have a buddy who has the same stable of DH bikes (actually an old V10 and the last V10 before the 29er era, and two Demos).  I dig both bikes for sure.  I hope Northstar opens over here... I do plan to do a couple of Snow Summit trips but I'll be on the enduro bike this time.  I'll hit you up if I do.  ?

    • Like 1
  6. 2 hours ago, R50JR said:


    That turned out great! I never thought I’d see a link to pinkbike on this forum. Had a peek at your pics on there. Are you still riding the dhr?


    Sent from my Pathfinder

    I LOVE that bike... I will own it until I can't ride anymore.  So yes, it's still my park bike and occasional freeride bike, although I've scaled back on the aggression at my advanced age (52).  What do you ride?

  7. Well, I did your collective advice and used the tie-down hooks as my base.  Really surprised how beefy those things were considering.  Anyway, I did not weld (because I don't have one but was this close to going to HB to buy a flux welder).  I bought four 1/2 inch fine thread bolts (3.5 inches long).  I just used a stack of washers along with the bolt through the tie down base to secure the bar, and used the same bolts to secure the hitch (I could have used 1/2 inch shorter bolts but eh).  I installed my makeshift Yakima bike holder (probably weighs 40-50 lbs total),stood up on the end (I weigh 150 lbs) and tried to impart some downward motion and it did not flex.  I then test drove around with my 30 lb bike and the bike looked solidly held.  It's 11 inches to the lowest point (for reference, the diff pumpkin was 8.5 inches).  I say it's good.  

     

    Thanks for all the help!

     

    https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/18743859/

    https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/18743858/

    https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/18743857/

    https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/18743856/

     

    • Like 2
  8. 15 minutes ago, hawairish said:

    Yo @microfiz!  Hope you've been well!

     

    Strato_54's advice is the approach I'd take, too.  Basically make a receiver span directly underneath the radiator support and attach to the existing tie-down points.  Take a look at "wrangler front mount hitch receivers" and you see how most of them have tall ears for mounting and a cross-tube at the bottom (something like this).  Some of them also have support brackets that would allow for mounting to the radiator support.  On our trucks, there are a few unused OE provisions for M10 hardware so a design like that would do well.  A design like that also wouldn't be too difficult to remove when not needed.

    Hi Patrick!  All is good (aside from this COVID crap).  Your springs have been perfect on the truck... she's running really smooth.  My 14-yr old daughter says it'll be her first vehicle.  I think that's a wise choice.  ?

    • Like 1
  9. 7 minutes ago, R50JR said:


    I see. What rack are you using out back? I am running a kuat nv 2 and the add on option has tempted me but like you mentioned, the price tag is high.

    3b21ad7d95490d07828a5ce74cd7c625.jpg


    Sent from my Pathfinder

    Fancy!  Mine's a lowly Hold-up... a $75 deal.  Still kicking myself for not picking up a nice 4-up from Thule at an REI garage sale.  $75 too.  Ugh.  

    raise 3 (2).jpg

    • Like 1
  10. 32 minutes ago, R50JR said:

     


    Why mount the rack on the front?

    Just several reasons on my end.  One, I have a spare bike hitch.  Extending the current 2-bike hitch I have (to a 4-bike carrier) would cost a lot more than buying the receiver ($20 at HB).  I have roof-mounted bike racks too but I'm vertically challenged and hate having to use those for shuttle days.  
     

     

     

  11. 20 hours ago, Strato_54 said:

    the way i mounted my bush bumper was a piece of square tubing going under the support from the tie down brackets. that way its a full unbolt if i need it gone. each piece is about 4 inches long on each tie down, but those are also tapped with 2 bolt holes each with 5/8th grade 8 bolts and then that has another piece of square tubing going across. reason for this is to not block the radiator drain plug. then in the center i did a simple 2 inch or what ever the standard size is of square tubing for a hitch is, drilled a hitch pin hole and then thats my front mount. with having that full length of square tubing it misses the radiator and makes it easily removable from the front end if you ever wanted it fully off. i welded these together so if you dont have a welder then i would skip half of what i said and just tap holes for a long piece of square tubing going from tie down to tie down. it will just be a bit harder to unbolt. 

     

    EDIT: never installed one of these on a car before i prefer the roof mount or rear mount but i use mine for a future winch basket that ill probably fab up at some point. or also good for recovery point. these are on the sub frame rails so not sure about bending them or not but other wise so far so good for me.

    You know, I just looked at this again and I'm very likely to follow your advice.  I may even end up welding (I don't have one but I may have access to it).  I also have the raw materials to make this work, although doing this drops the receiver height by two inches.  I'll post up when this is done. 

    • Like 1
  12. Has anyone installed this on their vehicle?  I used the subframe at the bottom (below the radiator) and it was flimsy (I could see the top part buckle as I tightened the bolts).  I ended up distributing the load with a strut (the bolts go through the struts) but it still feels flimsy.  It's only meant to hold a bike when I'm shuttling.  Do you guys have better recommendations?  Thanks!

    front bumper.jpg

  13. 13 hours ago, Astrorami said:

    how does that Elka ride? I've only ridden dhx and a double barrell.

     

    Haha!  We should start a bike thread (sorry OP for hijacking).

     

    The Elka was tuned for the DHR (under MRP now).  The DW-link was notorious for spiking near the end of travel... I started with a DHX on this bike (tuned for FSR suspension) and I was bucked a couple of times.  This Elka has been pretty good.  I also have a Vector HLR Air which I really like (but blew out the damper at Northstar).  I like how the air shock gives me a pedaling platform and makes preloading off jumps more predictable.  

  14. Well, I did end up buying the rims. I also found a set of used tires (mismatched but they were bigger @ 265/70/16) and installed them by hand (thanks to Youtube for all the tips... wasn't hard at all). I did have to pay for balancing so all in all, I spent $390 for this endeavor ($250 for the rims, $20 for the nuts incuding anti-theft nuts, $70 for tires, $10 for valve stems and $40 for balancing). Didn't spend for new tires initially since I was concerned with interference but after testing it out, I'll probably switch out tires sooner than later. Still a huge improvement over stock, in my opinion.

     

    p5pb15519168.jpg

    p5pb15519171.jpg
    p5pb15519172.jpg

     

    p5pb15519175.jpg

     

    p5pb15519162.jpg

    And one more pic of my beloved Helga:

    p5pb14157978.jpg

    • Like 2
  15. Thinking of changing out the rims (stock and look like they belong to an 80's Escort GT... lol!). I found this:

     

    https://www.4wd.com/p/pro-comp-52-rock-crawler-series-gloss-black-powder-wheels-52-6783/_/R-FPWF-52-6783

     

    The backspacing is 4 inch when all the threads I found say 3.75 inches is butter (I know... 0.25 inches isn't much).

     

    Just want to see someone with stock size wheels (255/65/16) on this type of rim. Thanks!

  16. Can you see the bolt?

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    Yes.... it taunts me and reminds me what a failure I am.

     

    Seriously... lol! There's about a 2-3 inch gap. I could put a 10mm box wrench on it but no leverage (yes, I've tried mating it to another wrench). I've even McGyvered a 10mm socket (grounded it down and attached it to 1/4 inch breaker bar (attached to a pipe) but that didn't break it (slipped a few times near the end of my frustration hence the rounded head).

  17. Haha, gotta love that CARB designation!

     

    Since everything else came down easily, I'd probably share the same stubbornness and try to conquer, too. Got a pic of the space you're working with?

     

    I'll take pics the next time I go underneath. But I have small hands and it was very difficult to get a wrench on it. Did I say small hands? "I guarantee you there's no problem. I guarantee you." LOL!

    • Like 2
  18.  

     

     

    Ron, lifting the engine might not give much clearance, except maybe if you loosen the two bolts at bottom of the motor mount. Might only create extra work, though.

     

    Normally I'd say if you've come this far, go the distance and swap it out (otherwise it'll come back and haunt you!), but for stuff like this that doesn't seem to trigger a code, and for an expensive part like a cat, I'd probably forego the work and return the unit. If the issue, or another related issue, manifests, you'll be back under there anyway.

     

     

    One other reminder is to look for local catalytic converter recyclers if you do replace yours. There are even online scrappers. It can recoup a decent chunk of the costs of a new unit, though I don't think the pre-cats (show in this post) are worth as much as the rear units.

     

    Patrick, I'm almost inclined to just return the cat but as stubborn as I am, I will probably do one more attempt at it. Frankly, removing the secondary cat was a breeze, and after I gave up yesterday, it didn't take more than 30 minutes to button everything back up (I even applied anti-seize on the threads). The seized heat shield bolt notwithstanding, this is probably one of the easier jobs to do for a weekend mechanic.

     

    And yes, I am aware of the value I recoup selling the used cat to the recycler (I even saved the broken bits in a bag). I have a 99 E-class Benz and all 4 cats failed and after reselling the used cats, I saved over half of my initial replacement purchase. Hope that's still the case (the CARB cat is $250 versus $100 at Ebay for 49-state). Thank you, California. =)

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