Jump to content

AkPrecision

Members
  • Posts

    196
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by AkPrecision

  1. To bad your in Cali and require a front plate. See that nice long ~20 opening where your plate sits? Perfect place for a flood.

     

     

     

    I did think of that and i can run the plate on the inside of my windshield if i need to. however i am going to be getting the xrox bumper for it so i may cut the grille guard off it and set a light bar there. I am still a ways from being done. IT NEVER ENDS LOL

  2. 20160504_212939-2_zpsdsf6rcap.jpg

     

     

     

    Here is how she sits now. i just mount a 40" olympus offroad zues hd long throw bar. it is awesome! However it is a heavy spot. it lights up about yards directly in front of me like its day time and i can see light out to about 300 yards the way it is aimed. i want to get a flood light to light up the surrounding area around the front of the truck that will be better than my 4 55 watt hids im running. Any good suggestions. i was initially looking at adding a 20" in front of the grille but am starting to think a 30" underneath my existing 40" Any ideas or opinions?

  3. Unfortunately those do not work since they are not reverse cut gears. R50 has a high pinion diff on the front. It is not the same as others with the same part number. I had an hour long talk with Steve at rugged rocks about this grrr said there is not enough demand to make the gears

  4. I'm in the process (and almost finished) test fitting the new era of SFD kits to hit the market...working on the panhard bracket and the kit will be done...however I don't think you'll get 35's outta only 2-3 inches...that would be rough

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

    I will end up trimming more metal off the fenders. I don't mind cutting them because if I don't like it new ones are pretty cheap. I'm more worried about turning with them on.

  5. I'm switching my 4.6 out for some xterra 4.90. That should help with 33s.

     

    Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

    If you have 4x4 the xterra gears won't work in the front. Our front diffs are high pinion so they are reverse cut. The only gear option for an r50 is 4.3 or 4.6. If you are 2wd you can do many gears ratios such as the 4.9. I originally wanted 4.9 But I couldn't find anyone willing to make custom gears

  6. For those of you that have 3.5L engines with the 4.3 and did the 3rd member and front diff swap from an older 3.3L with 4.6 gears was it worth it? I'm on 33s and plan to stay there. If a good 2 or 3" sfd came out I might do that and go 35s but for now she does what I need her to. Was the difference noticeable? I am actively considering this but would like some input.

     

    Mike

  7. I am about start doing some more stuff to my truck. I'm going to have a rear swinger made and front I found a bumper at a decent price I'll probably get however I want to reheat first. I'm on 33s and plan to stay there. I want to do rugged rockes 4.91 greats however our front diff it's high pinion which means they are reverse cut and have 0 support(surprise surprise). I cannot find anyone even willing to make them. Now after talking with I believe Steve from rugged rocks he thinks it's possible to swap the xterra front diff in since they have the same code. Has anyone tried this and knows what needs to be done to make it work? This would be an awesome way to open up tremendous amounts of hearing options for us

  8. So after a ton of research about my particular r50 (2001 se 4x4 3.5) I have a r200 and h233b diff. They make 4.9 gears for them. From what I understand is the front is high pinion which uses reverse cut gears so the regular 4.9s won't work. And Noone makes a set of reverse cut that I have found. So I have 2 options after talking to steve at rugged rocks for a few days. Either I have them custom made which I have a shop that ca do it I think and may possibly be a leader to get a group buy together if that interests anyone. Or I take an xterra front diff and try to fab a mount to volt it up and they already come with 4.9s. Anyone have any suggestions s or input? Or possibly know of magical reverse cut front diff hear options other than the 4.63 factory conversion?

  9. Well went in to ss motorsports for a couple of things to be done on the pathy. First my I'm running ac lift and no rear sway bar. I was tucking 33s into the fender and the inner lip was just barely catching the tire and was bending fender lip and slicing the tire. So I have the lip trimmed back a half in an now it tucks perfect. Also had a MagnaFlow dual in single out installed 2.5" pipe from cats back dumped with turn down. At rear axle since also from from flexing my axle went up and broke all the welds from the muffler into the resonator. Sounds pretty nice. I'll get a video up soon of how she sounds. Droning isn't to bad

     

    20150928_120751_zpsmhapwltm.jpg

     

    20150928_120745_zpsbqs6wqdp.jpg

     

     

    20150928_120730_zpsywhbwdud.jpg

     

     

    20150928_120455_zpsknojdir6.jpg

     

     

    20151015_095852_zpsk0kfapi7.jpg

  10. I'm running acs 2" coil lift and fluerys 1" strut spacers on 33s. My CVS are at an angle but still within spec. I have heard rare cases where this is to much lift and the CVS bind. One way to check is installed the front suspension and keep wheels off the ground. Crank wheel and spin wheels if it is binding it's a no go. Mine has been on about a year and has seen many offroad excursions. I'm not running a rear sway bar anymore and the flex is impressive for what it is

  11. I actually have a 42" olympus zues hd combo sitting waiting for mounts. I'm going to fab mounts and weld them to a rola vortex roof rack. And then I'm going to run the wires down the rain gutter that follow forward of the rack rails and under the windshield grommet on the side of the windshield. Once all is done I will post pics

  12. Thanks everyone

     

     

    Nothing was screwed into them when I purchased this truck except a couple little black screw tabs and they are just floating in there. If you run your fingers through the track you should feel them in there. they are the only screw points inside the track. I'll find a picture of what they look like. The are stainless squares inside a plastic sliding guard with a 10mm hole in the middle

×
×
  • Create New...