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pepperjack26

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Everything posted by pepperjack26

  1. Looking great. I will say the rear is much easier. My process (only put in 1.5" spacers): 1. Drive up on ramps 2. Remove shocks (2 bolts easy) and Panhard (1 bolt used some thread cleaner) 3. Jack one side up - remove wheel and ramp 4. Lower that side until spring is loose (Watch brake line carefully) 5. Remove spring and clean around all mount locations (optional cleaning but may need it) 6. Insert spacers/spring back into location 7. Reverse 4,3,2,1. 8. Repeat for other side. The first time I did it for only springs and shocks - OEM to OME. The second time was to add the spacers. Both sides took me about an hour and a half (alone in my driveway). I used: 2 ramps, 1 jackstand, 1 floor jack, various bricks/wood spacers, socketset, torkwrench, cleaner/degreaser/lube. PS: my rear sway bar is also removed.
  2. Like the build! Been thinking about relocating my shock mounts - mine are oddly not straight - causing one of my shocks (OME) to rub my Fleurys' spacer. I also have the Weathertech cargo mat - but my cargo area is 70% full all the time - so it is not easy to see. Thrilled to see someone (finally) trying out the weathertech AVM as they do not make one molded to our floors, now I know they will fit. Great thread, I'll be following your progress!
  3. Curious what that is on the right side of the rear bumper - looks like some kind of vent. Didn't see that in your build thread.
  4. Not a necessary part to replace, unless you are trying to get more height. I used the KYB on mine, but waited (month) for my OME springs to arrive. My goal was lift - and the struts were already gone. I've been told: if you are doing springs - do the struts. If struts are gone and springs are not damaged - struts alone are fine.
  5. Like Rebelord, I also have the OME lift springs - front/rear. I did use Fleurys 1.5" spacers though - front and back. I sit level. My mechanic did the install - I don't have the tools/facility to do the work. He had to order camber bolts to get my front straight - the set he stocked was not enough adjustment. We don't have a camber adjustment in the rear.
  6. Rear end is easy. I did the shocks, springs, and Fleury's 1.5 spacers in the rear in my gravel driveway (no cover). Drive up ramps, floor jack, jack stands and a craftsman socket set were used. I did the rear springs first - the shocks are simple. Later I did the spacers. Front is a different story. If you are replacing the struts, do the springs at the same time. If you are like me, you use a shop as they have the tools and space. I provided the OME springs, and actually the KYB struts as Amazon was cheaper than his Napa source. Having them done at the same time saves labor if you plan to replace the springs down the line. Maybe all you need are the rear springs - your call. Make sure with the strut install you have the strut bearings also done, I had to go back for those. Also, camber bolts should be stocked by your mechanic, and he can do an alignment if necessary. I was able to put small spacers in the front struts in my driveway, but for anything longer than 3/8, you will need longer strut bolts installed - so have it done at the shop with the strut install. TLDR: have all the front stuff done at once, in the shop. You can do the rear stuff on your own.
  7. As a non-mechanic here as well, I purchased an OBD2 reader from amazon last year. Spent less than $20, leave it plugged in all the time and have an app on my phone that reads current information and DTC codes whenever I want. I don't really understand the "screwdriver/socket-wrench/standalone" mechanic categories completely, but I do also go to my mechanic for help when I cannot see the problem directly. I'll do electrical work (lights/wiring) but nothing that would stop my DD Pathfinder from taking me to work. I'll do suspension work, but nothing I can't put back together in an hour if I need to go somewhere. I don't have a garage, just a gravel driveway to work in. So, I am also a fair-weather mechanic. I bought the OBD2 (bluetooth) reader for piece of mind.
  8. Finally did some wiring in the rear. Dropped the trailer wiring harness connections through the rear up under where the spare is mounted. Spare clears it by about an inch. Now I can add whatever I need cleanly. With all the LED lamps I have installed, the combination (brake/indicator) causes inteference for some reason, so I'll have to use a 7-wire harness. I already have the 7-pin receptacle, but now the install should be easier. My aux is a backup signal on a switch up front. The extra "clear" is for my rock lighting - also on a switch up front. If i need a hot constant, I can pull from the amplifier fuse block.
  9. Those do look nice. Wish I'd been a better buyer. I've moved to projectors with HID, maybe buy some H1 LEDs down the road.
  10. Like that shot! I thought for a moment it was my rig - but the bar gave it away. (just waking up). Same housings, LED in the same location, all black. Everything LED accept HID in my fogs, and the hiding driving lights behind grill (removed). My LEDs were never as good as yours. I believe I may have purchased something of a lesser quality.
  11. Pulled apart a set of headlights to retrofit HID projectors. Dis-assembly was much easier than I expected it to be.
  12. Ha, funny CDN, I also carry 2 halogen bulbs with me just in case. No troubles overheating mine over the last year, been in winter and freezing temps (ok, nothing less than 10 degrees F) but the rubber seal fits nicely around the adaptor and the LED modules are removable quite easily. One thing I have not tried, MUD. Mine are waterproof, but mud could stop them easily.
  13. I bought my OME set from Rocky-road.com outfitters and purchased the "trim packers" for my front end. They are a spacer above the strut at the mount. I did this myself before any front upgrades - in my driveway with a socket set = easy. The "trim packer" provides about an inch of front leveling.
  14. I have sported LED headlights from the beginning of last year. Looked back at my amazon and found I purchase them Jan 2nd (2015). The Genessi (sp) H4 Cree. Not thrilled - but here are the pics. Pulled them out so you can see them. Low from top, High from bottom. Not great in reflector housings. Output at night - the camera makes them look fantastic. The yellow are my HID fogs (2700k). Headlights outshine them a few feet on high.
  15. Mounted my roof rack with the proper hardware - and modifications (because it is a Pathfinder).
  16. Had a burning smell when I got to work yesterday. Oil was dripping on the exhaust shield. Tightened the valve cover screws - accept the ones under the intake - and sprayed some engine de-greaser on the back leaky parts. Rinsed it off and drove to work - gently. Only smell now is the remainder of the cleaner burning off. I hope this fixes the problem. I've smelled something burning off and on for quite a while. Was very strong yesterday. Just chemical smell now.
  17. Is there a reason you have the 12v outlet isolated from the rest of the 12v system in your rig? My thoughts would be to link it into the main battery and have the panel charge everything. Is that not a viable option?
  18. My OME HD, KYB, and Fleurys 1.5" spacer in front have actually not caused me any trouble. Flexed to droop a front tire and didn't have any binding. I believe my CVs are originals, and did have to (via syringe) add some lube to the driver side boot. Manual hubs (MM) but still don't seem to have any issues. Sometimes it appears the same mods done by multiple owners provide different results. My Pathfinder is a 2000, maybe that matters - but I don't understand why. Whenever I have issues mechanically, I take a trip to my mechanic and ask for his opinion. When he installed my OME/KYB/Spacers (I do not have the tools or facility) he did say I should not lift it more but that it looked "ok". I have trusted his opinions for 15 years.
  19. I can answer some: from stock I upgraded to OME HD springs and Kyb struts front, OME MD rear (only OME option) and OME Shocks. My rear "sag" was nicely lifted up and the front much more level. I also installed the "trim packer" (basically a 5/8" strut spacer) on the top of the struts for a more level front end. Before and After OME/Kyb I know the pictures are not exactly straight, but the difference was very noticeable. My old shocks and struts were all completely wasted, so the handling was greatly increased. NO CV Issues with this setup at all. OME is designed to work with your factory setup to not require additional modifications.
  20. I was thinking the same remark J, but then saw the other led thread. I like the output of your LED headlights, mine are less than adequate - barely outshine my factory fogs. May have to go back to HID, or make a projector conversion...
  21. Really like the red LED. How did you replace the hvac buttons? Recirculation and AC? I just can't seem to get to those tiny lamps..
  22. Merry Christmas! I worked until 5pm today, but shut off the lights in our warehouse (supply store) at 2pm. I did not have to go into the dark before locking the doors. Sadly, I accomplished nothing in the last 3 hours of the day.
  23. I confess I placed an HID conversion in my factory foglight housings. There is a nice output from the factory fogs, I do not see a bad beam pattern, appears to have a nice cutoff. No upward light at all. 2700k kit, so very nice yellow light behind clear lenses. Headlights are LED, but I am not happy with them.
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