Terranovation

Looks like Stuart Little has had a go at that. I'd also check for a nest in the evap box. Pretty easy check to get in there.

Jam donuts

Dexron III (Castrol) is a generic brand that doesn't specify which vehicle it's designed for. Although it works, I feel the trans doesn't shift as nicely as Castrol Multivehicle because Multivehicle is specifically designed for 'Asian Vehicles' and because Terrano is Japanese built and the trans is Jatco it's built in Japan too. Multivehicle fluid is a darker red too while the generic brand is more a strawberry color so I believe the darker red has a better viscosity based on it's color being 'thicker'. As for the air temp question, both generic Dexron III and multivehicle both heat up at about the same temperatures, the trans should take 4-5 mins from a cold start, to warm up to 82 Celsius (179 F) about the same temp as the thermostat opens to allow coolant flow, at that stage, overdrive lock up can then occur. During the warm up stage, only 3rd gear is available which is a pain sometimes but it does this to warm up the trans faster. In summer temps, this warm up takes less time. I would say anything over 75 F it's a lot quicker than say if the outside temp was 60 F.

Cuong, the shop that originally did the motor mounts they should have some kind of warranty for that work they did. It is a safety issue that needs to be addressed and I would be telling them this that it is a safety issue. Do they have a proper design safety standard in place for this work they did? I would be taking photos and showing them it's not right, it's a safety issue and needs rectifying.

You remove the light by first removing the two screws then reaching under, pull it towards you. Just watch out for spiders behind that area it's a nice hidey spot. The lens has a couple of slots where you can put a flat screwdriver in and turn, then it comes apart. As for the wiring at the back of the housing, just undo the wiring if PO hasn't already crimp connected it. I had to cut my wiring and installed male/female connectors.

Has anyone had any experience recoloring carpets with the spray can stuff? I want to redo my original floor mats to breathe new life into em. I don't want to buy new ones because they don't have anything oem, unless you want floor mats with some cheesy one liner written on it which looks ridiculous. I would like to read your opinion on the results you had by respraying carpets with dye spray, maybe even pics too would be great.

Once picked up a guy and girl walking in the middle of nowhere at 1 am. They were heading same direction as I was so gave them a lift. Got some good action looking in the rear view mirror, tongue kissing etc. They didn't care that I got full view of them. Another time, I was out about 2 am and this guy waved me down, so I thought what the heck, I'm bored. I thought he looked a bit shifty so ensured I showed him my hunting knife I kept hidden next to the seat. So he was aware of no funny business. Dropped him off further up the highway as I got to my turn off then he says, can you keep going further? I say, how much further? Sydney, he says. This guy isn't going to budge and I started getting annoyed. Buddy, that's over 2,500 kms away! Gtfo of my car and then he ran. Another time, I just came out of the local shop and this girl out of nowhere walks up and asks is that your car, I say yes so straight up she says give me a lift to 'town' 10 kms away. I say yeah no problem. It just amazed me, here's this 16 year old girl in my car and I was about 19 at the time and she had no idea who I was. I could have been an axe murderer for all she knew. Anyway, I gave her a lift to where she needed to go and we talked about random stuff. Dropped her off and didn't get a kiss or anything. I felt stupid afterwards, didn't even get a phone number lol.

This from my post earlier, showing the leds I installed. The red thing is a digital voltmeter. Also went for a nice drive to a lookout point.

If the headlights work but your dash lights aren't then it's definitely the fusible link and one of those wires is burnt. Check battery terminals are clean and tight and check distilled water level in battery. Clean all ground wires are clean and making metal to metal contact. There's 3 to check, one on the inner fender between the battery and engine, one on the side of the engine and one at the rear of engine IIR. Check volts at battery, you should have 12.4-12.6 with everything off at rest. Check with the engine running after you push start it. If it's anything below 13 volts then your alternator is on the way out and will need a rebuild or buy a new one. I'd rather just get new because a rebuild will cost about the same. Could also be starter. Another test you can try is a voltage drop test. Touch multimeter red wire to positive on battery and black wire from multimeter to the alternator case making metal to metal contact. The voltage should be the same as if you were testing at the battery.

Nice work Cuong. I usually degrease then let it creep for a few hours or overnight then hit it again with degreaser then pressure clean.

Next to the 4wd symbol might be a light saying A.T.P. The ATP light comes on when the transfer case is in Neutral and the transmission is in Park. It's there to alert the driver that putting the transmission in Park will not prevent the vehicle from rolling since the axles are disconnected from the transmission's park pawl. If the transfer case is not actually in Neutral, then it's just a sensor glitch. This light indicates that the automatic transmission parking function is not engaged. If the transfer control lever is not secured in any drive position while the automatic transmission selector lever is in the P (Park) position, the transmission will disengage and the vehicle may move unexpectedly. Shift the transfer control lever into the 2H, 4H, or 4L position when the warning light comes on

Vacuumed the whole interior after driving along then a mini sand storm blew up. Unfortunately I had my window down and sand was everywhere! Sand on the seats, in the vents, on the carpet, sand on the dash. Took me about an hour cleaning it all then had a shower and was picking sand out of places I won't mention.

If it's water in the tank adding methylated spirits will absorb any water in there.

Got around to installing my small t5 led globes in the dash to match the existing leds. It was a mission having to turn the key after installing each bulb to make sure it worked and if not, pulling the bulb holder, turning it around and reinstalling. Found that a majority of the bulb holders I had to bend in the tiny metal arms on the bulb holder so the leds would slot in without falling out. Installed a total of 17 globes for the P,R,N,D,2,1 tree, the glow plug light, high beam, park brake indicator, battery, oil pressure, O/D light, clock illumination, trans temp overheat indicator, one in the dash at the 0 mark on the tach and rear defog indicator. Interestingly I found there was no globe in the high beam spot and now all red coloured lenses are pinkish, the green lenses are now a light blue, orange lenses are now yellow and the clock is blue. It's different to what I expected but I like the changes. Will post pic.

I'm sticking with my Terrano for as long as possible, it's age is making it look kinda funky! Plus other drivers look at it like "what is that?" because you are lucky if you see one like mine once a week that's how rare they are getting, not even hardly any parts in junk yards. I think in a few more years time the price is going to go up on these old iron trucks.

I've used normal Castrol Dexron III and I find it doesn't shift as nice but still it works as it should. Castrol Multivehicle is what I use and it's a bit more expensive but it's the best. I had my trans rebuilt nearly 200k ago and it's still going strong.

No worries also be careful with the bending back of the speedo needle that's why I said heat it then bend, apply more heat then bend. Do gradually and you won't snap it.

If you need help getting the speedometer needle straightened I managed to fix it, here's how - Remove the cluster first obviously. Lower the steering column. It's impossible to remove the cluster without lowering the steering wheel. Next, remove the 6 screws holding the steering column cover together and remove the top. Next, remove the 4 screws holding the plastic trim around the edges of the cluster. Then grab the edges both sides and pull firmly towards yourself. The bottom part of the trim is secured by metal clips which will pop out. If a metal clip falls out you will be able to easily put it back in place. Next, unclip the wiring harness to your rear window defog and any others that are behind that plastic trim. The cluster itself is held in by 4 screws, 2 at the top and 2 on the bottom. Pull the cluster forward carefully and unplug the connections behind it. The connectors have easy to remove squeeze and remove connectors. Taking the cluster inside to a clean area, take a small screwdriver and unscrew the small screw on the clock adjusting knob. Be careful you don't lose the tiny screw and knob. Now you can separate the two halves of the cluster. Do not attempt to remove the plastic screen, it will break or snap easily. You'll be looking for the plastic tabs on thr outer edge holding the shell together. Squeeze them down and push inwards. It's a little tricky but once you get a couple pushed in just keep going until you feel the shell pushing apart until it's finally separated. Now you can remove the speedometer needle. Clean hands. Wind the needle up till you feel it make a click. It's a bit hard to explain but you should feel a spot where it kinds stops, then just pull it up and off. Heat up the kettle and get a coffee mug. You want the water to be hot, but not boiling hot because it will melt the plastic needle more. You just want it very hot. Dunk the needle into the hot water for about 15 seconds then bend it back carefully with your finger. It should be quite pliable. Dunk it again and bend again. Then get a couple of flat heavy surfaces and stick the needle between them and leave overnight if you can. Big heavy book worls with a weight on the top, like some bricks or an old car battery sitting on top of the book would be good. This will ensure the needle gets straightened as possible. While the cluster is out would also be a good opportunity to change all of the cluster bulbs to leds for an easier to read dash.

I know this might sound ridiculous but I read that atf can clean injectors. I was curious. I took a small bottle of atf to the petrol station, added only a small amount about 100ml to a full tank and I found after a couple of atf treatments I have increased my mileage by 50 kms (31.25 miles) so I am certain that atf works to clean the fuel system. After both refills these tests were done without running the air con to get a consistent result and was a combination of traffic/freeway conditions.

Sounds like it's flooded, just wait a while, keep turning the key with accelerator down to the floor or try again in the morning till the fumes dissipate. Technically you should hold the throttle open by hand rev it up to about 2,000 rpm then spray carby cleaner in the intake.

No worries curtcwc, let us know the results. We don't have this Seafoam stuff in Australia. I've seen vids on youtube about it. I'd love to see the results on a diesel like mine.

By feeding 1/3 of a can into the vacuum line, Sea Foam will clean the intake valves and pistons, restore power, and remove carbon and varnish residue. The first two uses are relatively easy, you just pour it in and drive. The top-end introduction is a little more tricky. Start by locating a vacuum line. For most vehicles, the power brake boost line will be the easiest. It is vital that the line services all cylinders, so it should be located at or near/under the throttle body or carburetor. Remove the line from the accessory (not the engine side), and start the vehicle. Copy pasted direct from the Seafoam website.

Keep in mind while you are wiring up your new alty to put the positive cable onto the battery first, then the negative cable last. I accidentally did it the wrong way when reconnecting my battery and fried my fusible link. After firing up the engine, check the voltage with a multimeter and if it's at 14 - 14.5 volts then the alternator is charging properly. Another good idea is to charge up the battery before reconnecting the battery cables, so your new alternator isn't going to struggle for trying to charge up a half dead battery.

That is your condensor unit, it is there so that when the alternator is running, you won't get a vibration noise effect coming through the speakers. The wire connects under that bolt on the back. Tbh I threw mine away because I found I wasn't getting any vibrating noise in the speakers so yeah. It's a bit of an antiquated system these vehicles had. Many new speakers on the market have noise cancelling systems in place to prevent engine noises and verberations that would otherwise spoil your tunes and that is most important at 65 mph.

When I want to upload photos, I take the photo with my mobile, then open it up in Paint. Because the original photo is 2.1 Mb or something I resize the photo to 20%. That gets it down to an acceptable limit then upload via Tapatalk.