Terranovation
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Posts posted by Terranovation
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Nah sall good, people in Australia don't go running around with guns. Knives and other weapons maybe. Don't see much of thumb lifters these days. Everyone that has seen Wolf Creek, trust me, Australia isn't like that at all. The majority of country towns I have been through all have lovely, friendly people and always have time for a yarn.
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I can look at a hill or a sandy track through some grass and you don't hesitate about it. The truck just has so much confidence to get the job done and is made for 4wd.
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They are just fun to drive, sure they don't accelerate as fast as other vehicles but it's not all about speed to me. It's about owning a TRUE SUV. Sports Utility Vehicle. I always laugh to myself at these new so called SUVs. They are a SV if anything. I'd love to see one hill climb without getting stuck at anything higher than 25 degree angle. They also have hardly any room in the boot compared to our Wd21 body. These new so called SUVs are shopping trolleys at best you'll be getting only one golf bag in the back. Mine I once got a whole coffee making bench in the back. It can easily carry four golf bags no problem.
The other thing that is cool is the fact that people do look at my truck because they are getting rare. It's not the type of vehicle you see a lot of. So as the age increases now, I'm thinking the price IS going to increase for these old iron beasts as long as you keep em clean, maintained and as rust free as possible. Low mileage will also play a factor but I guess as long as the truck is relatively dent free and straight then mileage could be overlooked by a potential buyer. Like you could have a truck that is trash with 100,000 on it but another might have 400,000 and be pristine and clean, garaged and well maintained.
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I found stuff like this on my truck too, like the wire that had been twisted into place, holding by only a few bare threads of wire. It amazes me why someone would do something so dodgy, instead of just replacing the whole length of wire, with proper insulation and clean connections at both ends. Do it right the first time and avoid problems.
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Ok, found this interesting article for you. Might be fuel pump relay isn't switching off (hence the kill switch was installed)
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Fusible link wire is supposed to feel rubbery it's designed like that. Mechanic showed me when mine fried if the wire snaps when you stretch it then it's fried. Fusible link wire should not easily snap when you try to stretch it.
As for the engine 'running on' after turning the key off, this sounds fuel pump related to me.
Battery = Check volts 12.5-12.6 at rest
Alternator = Check wiring on back of it.
Spark plugs = Check gaps are correct
Fuel pump is next on the list.
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Ok so what is happening when you turn the key, can you hear a clicking or buzz noise from fuel pump? Battery light should illuminate when you turn key to ON and go off when it starts.
Sometimes problems occur when people install new alternators but they forget the bad wiring, then they go ahead and connect the old worn wiring and it craps out again. So then person who installed the alternator is in the belief it's the alternator that is faulty when it's the wiring that is having problems from being shifted around or unearthed properly while the old alternator was removed/reinstalled.
Check the earth cable from your neg battery post too. It goes down to a bokt on the fender in there. Take the bolt out clean up with wire brush and tighten back up, then the wire goes to the engine block on the side, again same thing, wire brush under the bolt making a metal to metal connection. Then I believe there's an earth connection at the rear of the engine if you can see it with an angled mirror or something.
Or maybe the battery is just plain dead or has a bad cell. No amount of trickle charging is gonna fix that.
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Fusible link by the battery?
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Actually I thought the '30' was meant to be a red wire with an inline fuse going to the + on battery. That's how I have my relay connected for my led bar and it's independent from the normal headlight switch so I have full control over when I need to use it.It's actually much simpler than that.
The fog light relay has 5 connections, labeled like this:
30. This is the power circuit input from the low beams
85. This is your ground
86. This is the relay control circuit input from the switch.
87. There are two of these, which are the power circuit output to the fog lights
Move the connection on the relay labeled "30" to a switched source, you can run the fogs independent of the headlights. No other changes are needed.
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No quarter
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Depending on the size and shape of the rust hole you might get away with grinding it out into a round shape, hit it with some rust proofing and put a rubber bung in to fill the hole, at least that's what I did with mine.
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Steering clear
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Roulette wheel
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Sounds like an episode for Mythbusters.
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Kids and exhaust pipes, they are fascinated by them. I remember getting in trouble from my dad when I was little, I got the hose stuck it up and watered his exhaust pipe for him lolPulled my rear exhaust pipe and muffler down to take a 2nd stab at extracting a bungee cord that my 3-yo pushed up there last night, and which one of the hooks snagged on something and wouldn't come out (I stretched it to the point of the metal end uncoiling). Let me tell you how not-easy it is to shake a bungee cord from a muffler and tail pipe, and still needed to fish it out.
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I don't think it is possible unless you cut the whole front end of the engine bay off. The trans fits into that tunnel underneath, how is that gonna slide forward with enough room to clear the tunnel with the engine in front of it? Even if you tried to angle the engine upward, I highly doubt you'd get enough clearance to slide the trans out of the tunnel.
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Russian vodka
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Drink up
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There is a video walkthrough by trulymeparker on youtube titled Led dashboard upgrade Terrano. Although the end result of illumination wasn't good in the video, at least you can see how it comes apart.
After doing some research, I found the square dash design for the Terrano is actually the same as a D21, or early Frontier model. It's not the same as the curved dash design that has oval gauges.
The number of globes you'll need are 6 x T10 which is four for the actual gauges, two for the indicators. T5 globes fit the smaller warning lights like the clock and there was one at the '0' mark on the tacho. I think I used a total of 17 T5s. I had to bend the pins inwards on the bulb holders to make the bulbs fit because they kept wanting to slide out. Pretty easy to bend the pins in with a small knife edge and being careful.
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Yeah I get the same problem, the issue is the plastic sheet that is supposed to be glued down around the edges of the door has come off. Get some black contact and stick it over the inside of the door vent so then if you want to remove it you can peel it off.
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Turn buckle
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Been experiencing some weird smells coming through the vents so did a clean out of the blower, found a pine twig and a crumpled leaf in it. Cleaned all the fins on squirrel cage with hand soap and an old toothbrush. Vacuumed the evap box through the resistor hole. There was a hair inside, don't know how that got in there, poked around with the end of a cable tie to loosen it because the vacuum wasn't getting it but eventually managed to get it out. Sprayed some air freshener in the evap box and also in the hole where the blower fits. Bolted everything back up now I have fresh smelling air again.
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The rear defog seems to be a separate issue, I doubt that the two are linked. Did you check the metal tab on the side of the rear window is intact and connected? Sometimes they can get snapped off when carting large items.
As for the blower, maybe water got in there and damaged it. Best to unbolt it and check. Three 8mm screws hold it in. Unplug the connector first then unscrew. There's a small hose on the side that will come off the plastic pipe to the evap box. There's two plastic pins holding the hinges at the lower edges of the glove box. You'll feel a small lever on each one. Push them outwards (to the outer edges of the glove box) sometimes they can be a pain to remove just push them with a pen until they pop. With the glove box removed you'll have a lot more room in there to work. Remove a steel plate behind the glove box (it looks like a curved metal plate like from a WWII ammo box) then you can unscrew the two screws to the resistor on the front of the evap box. Check in the hole for leaves, twigs etc. Vacuum it out. With the blower fan, you can clean the squirrel cage thing by unscrewing it from the blower housing, wash the squirrel cage with warm water, hand siao and scrub the fins on it with an old toothbrush. Dry it all well and screw it back onto the blower housing. Check the connector with a multimeter with the ignition ON. There should be at least 12 volts otherwise it's definitely a blown fuse. It's a 20 amp yellow fuse IIR.
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Looks like Stuart Little has had a go at that. I'd also check for a nest in the evap box. Pretty easy check to get in there.
Another new forum game - 2 words
in Off-Topic
Posted
Old timer