FindMe
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I have a work in progress.. FINALLY got it running good. My next area of concern is as the title says. Checked relays and fuses under the dash and hood. all check good.. Could there be one common point of failure that made all not work? It was like this when I bought it.. It has had a bunch of wire added to it for stereo equipment and the neon lights underneath vehicle.
95 pathfinder 4x4 automatic 223,000 miles
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I was able to repair connection with the help of another thread found on here now the truck run great. just save $173. Thats what the stealership wanted.. I love this forum.
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you guys are awsome
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OK I think I have FINALLY fixed the problem. It was indeed a burnt connection on the fuel pump.. I have repaired connection and she runs goooood now... 42psi fuel pressure. Is that ok?
Thanks to everyone
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Figured I should add something to the forums after taking so much from here recently. Yesterday I was leaving my driveway and the engine just stalled out like it was out of fuel. Suspecting that I was out of gas I filled it up and started it again. Life was good... for a mile or so. After waiting a few minutes I could restart the motor and drove it back as quick as I could. After looking under the hood this morning and doing a few tests I found that the fuel pressure would be 36 psi for a bit, but if it ran a while longer the pressure would suddenly drop and kill the engine.
After lifting up the carpet and removing the cover (which was missing three of the four bolts), this is the beautiful sight I laid my eyes on.
It looks like one of the previous owners was a serious redneck when it came to fixing things.
This is what it looks like under all of the silicone/hot glue mess that was there. Looking at all the wiring and not seeing a good way to fix the existing setup I went about drilling out the bottom of the studs and removing the oem wiring attachment points.
This is where I was drilling to remove the studs on the inner side of the sending unit. After removing the stock attachment points I was left with rather large holes for the wires to slide through. To make a tight fitting seal I used some extra vacuum hose I had laying around to go around the wire like a rubber grommet.
That is the outside view.
This is the new inside view before I replace the pump and strainer. I plan on soldering the connections and shrink wrapping them so I don't have any problems later on. Also chopped off the unprotected butt connectors in the first picture as well. They wouldn't last long when I sink this in a mud hole later on. I'll keep updating as I get more done. The pump won't be in until early next week so if anyone has any better ideas I would gladly accept some input and change the design up to work better
Had a broken power wire. Did this today. Just saved me $173 Thanks for the write up
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Where can I buy the top of the fuel pump assembly where the fuel lines connect and where the 5 wires connect and bolts to top of gas tanke. All I can find is the lower section.. One of my wire connectoers burnt off and the whole connector is very loose. Of course its the wire that powers the pump. Are the wires permanently connected to the top or just really hard to disconnect?
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got a fuel pressure guage. No pressure. Pulled access cover to pump and one wire brunt off pump it was the white/purple wire .
There are 5 wires at the fuel pump the colors are black, yellow, blue/red stripe, yellow/blue or green stripe, white/purple stripe.
I unplugged the harness connector under the vehcle and noticed yellow/purple wire, yellow/green wire, white/blue wire and two black wires.
With key on im getting 7 volts and 8 volts from two yellow wires with stripes. Shouldnt i be getting 12 volts?
Why are there 5 wires running to my pump? which wires are for the gauge and which wires power the pump. I found a few diagrams but only show 2 different color wires going to pump, not 5 wires
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Check fuel pressure with engine off and on. Sounds like fuel pressure regulator flooding engine. Engine ran good after filter change as fuel system was lower pressure then built up and engine started running bad again. Ethanol gas is a killer for our older trucks. My dad's Ford F150 died and wouldn't start up. Pulled air inlet and gas smell was horrible. Checked fuel pressure and it pegged my gauge at 80psi.
I dont see a place to screw fuel pressure gauge. Can I just put a T in right after fuel filter? What should my reading be with key on engine off? key one engine running? where is the pressure regulator located?. Going this morning to buy a fuel pump gauge.
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This is very wierd. After running the pathfinder with the the intake half taped over it was running great.. ran it down the highway about 5 miles.. turned around, engine started stumbling a little, cleared up, got back home removed the tape and ran and idled near perfect. This lasted a few days with just idling in the drive and driving around neighborhood only. Last night I pulled it up onto my pit to bleed the brakes AGAIN (see other thread). finished bleed, started up and backed off of my pit and the engine started stumbling and died. and would not start, like it was out of gas. I fiddled with it and was able to get it to start back up and stay running a little bit if I sprayed a little starting fluid and taped up intake and feathered the throttle. Its like im back to square one again. if I tape off part of intake again(about 2/3 closed) I can get to run a little bit but will immediatley die if I remove all the tape It seems like an air fuel mixture problem.
I have been to 5 JY's to find another MAF sensor and harness and stock air breather assembly and have had no luck. When it was running good I unpluged MAF and pathfinder immediatley died
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Thanks for the info.Back to the other part of question. Do I just need hub and longer studs for install or is there other hardware required. When I switched my explorer over I needed different axle nut and spacers.
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Does the R50 and wd21 have the same procedure for changing to manual locking hubs? There is a write up on the R50 section on warn manual hubs. Also are my stock 95 hubs permanently locked or are they auto locking? If auto then do they work on vacuum or weights?
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I found a set of used warn manual locking hubs for my 95 pathfinder. My questions.... Do these bolt directly on or do I need additional hardware? Should I be worried about putting used hub on my pathfinder?. The seller wants $100 for the pair
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Don't use WD40 on a MAF. There are special cleaners that won't leave a residue. I used denatured alcohol without issue. The MAF works by heating up those little wires and judging how much the air passing cools them, so if they get a burned-on coating of oil from the WD40, the sensor won't work as well.
And yeah, I assume the black wire's ground. If in doubt you can test it pretty easy with a voltmeter. Shouldn't be voltage between it and ground (negative battery terminal or a clean spot on the body).
Still havent made it to junk yard. So heres what been happening...... Pathy got to the point where it would not start and run at all. I said what the heck and changed the fuel filter again. It started right up and idled for about 2 minutes b4 it died and would not restart. I again removed MAF sensor and spraying it with brake cleaner and reinstalled it without the rigged up air cleaner adapter, this mean sucking air straight from MAF sensor screen. I put tape over 1/3 opening to mimic aircleaner. Pathy started right up and idled for 20 minutes without dying at a little normal than higher rpm. With it still running I lowered the hood and immediatley the rpm decreased but and a non constistent idle. I raised hood back up to inspect no wires where touching hood and no vacuum lines getting pinched and rpms raised, lowered hood and rpms lowered again. Took for a 2 block drive. Came back home raised hood and put hand over intake and adjusted hand to where I could get it to idle perfect.
Im thinking I should just get a stock intake airbreather box or somthing made to actually fit this vehicle and also a muffler instead of straight piped to produce the correct amount of back pressure
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Does it run fine cold/warming up and then it does this behavior when hot? Is the behavior RPM, speed or gear related?
Has it ever done this idling? If so try wiggling censor connectors to see if the stumbling stops/changes.
I would have thought that it is starving for gas, but you replaced the filter. Fuel pressure could be an issue but that is not a common issue.
Have you downloaded a copy of the Factory Service Manual yet? (pinned in the Garage section) You can look up the resistance of various engine control items.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
B
it does this cold or warming up or at running temp. no rhyme or reason. I have tried wiggling wires. I havent checked for vacuum leaks yet. Kind of hard to keep it running long enough to check for vac leaks.. It has almost gotten to the point that sometimes itll start and sometimes it wont. at one point unplugged the MAF and truck started right up but wouldnt rev over 3200 rpms but couldnt duplicated it again. I dont know if that was a coincidence
I have take the MAF sensor off.looks like two bulb filaments. Didnt look corroded or anything so I sprayed with wd40 and put back on. Made no difference. Last week when it was running good i pulled off each spark plug wire seperately while running to see if each cylinder was firing . they all were firing.
Which of the three wires on the MAF is the ground? guessing its the black one. I probably wont make it to junk yard till next week
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Recently took on a 95 pathfinder 4x4 automatic. 223,000 miles Ran good at first then suddenly would start to spit and spudder then start running good again during the same drive time. Has been doing this last few time I drove it. Seems to run better on highway . When in city seemed to have alot of hesitation when accelleration. Now I am having hard time starting and running correctly. Once I get started I have to feather the peddle to keep it running. If i keep peddle steady it will run for a few second then die. like someone turned the key off. I inspected all vacuum lines and hoses and did discover a tiny hose off on the side of air breather tube between Maf sensor and intake. I repaired broken hose but made no difference. Ran ECU check came back code 55. I have no CEL . I did notice the screws that mount the MAF sensor were partially stripped out like someone has been in there before. the plug clip/lock is broken off and the black protective coating for the MAF wire connector is peeled back and two of the wires looked like they have been previously piggy back spliced onto at some point in time and splice removed since. I have literally have driven this vehicle less than 75 miles total. Just brainstorming here... was thinking about going to junk yard and getting a maf sensor and pigtail connector ,but until I make it to junkyard are there any other ideas? I have also Replaced fuel filter
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OK got a chance to gravity bleed .. still no difference.. afterwards I bypassed proportioning valve and still no luck.. but not it seem I have bigger problems.. now for some strange reason I can't keep it running will only stay running sometimes when feathering throttle. From what I've been reading I could have a bad maf ground.. any suggestion would be appreciated
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I will try gravity bleed tonight. Been really cold here.so my work is slow
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I do appreciate all the suggestions..
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Bleeding doing two man crew. One pumps and one bleeds.. we know how to bleed brakes. I'm at my wits end here.. another thing. My parking brake doesn't work. Was reading that parking brake adjusts drum brakes.
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OK bled according to silverton and still no difference. From prior experience had a bad "proportioning valve" and the rear brakes wouldn't bleed.
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Just got home and looked.. proportioning valve = abs hydraulic unit.. I will bleed that too in the order u said and see where I'm at and report backthe LoadSensingValve is on pickups only. Basically it increase brake pressure to the rear as there is more and more weight put in the bed of the truck and makes the suspension "sag". The proportioning valve is on Pathfinders and decreases pressure to the rear brakes when it detects a wheel locking under heavy braking.
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so the load sensing valve and proportioning valve are two different things? My manual doesn't mention proportioning valve. When I do a Google search On proportioning valve it says load sensing proportioning valve. I will look for proportioning valve when I get home.Sounds like you skipped the proportioning valve? It's third in line of the five bleeders. RR, RL, PV, FR, FL. The proportioning valve is on the passenger side frame rail about where the B pillar is.
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I was going to ask if the and hydraulic unit could be the culprit? Lines look good no cracking or building. Had an old bronco ii at one time and the abs hydraulic unit was bad but I couldnt bleed the rear brakes at all; no fluid would come outCould some of your rubber lines be old and bulging ? Did you change the rubber line between the rear axle and the hardline? You might try bypassing the abs module just to simplify the troubleshooting process. Also when you bled the brakes did you just bleed them or did you replace ALL the fluid in system?
HTH
I bled the pass rear first then driver rear then pass front then drivers front.
Does my Mc have a bleed screw? Not sure if I'm looking in wrong place but don't see it.
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And I just read your whole post. I don't think you'll get the rears to lock effectively. These vehicles have Rear-ABS so the proportioning valve is going to restrict flow to the drums when the differential's speed sensor detects a lock-up.
Heck I can't even get the pass rear to stop at all; it will only slow Down a little when rear end is jacked up. Got to turn engine off to put back into park.
No Turn signals, Horn, Cruise control, or Hazards
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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