Mr_Reverse
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Posts posted by Mr_Reverse
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Lol, I started out with a sealed relay so it didn't even occur to me that would happen. I have replaced a few relays like that over the years, just not on my wrecks for some reason. I did come across the replacement fuse box I got for me Sorento a few years ago because a built-in relay for the power outlets failed. To get me by until I found a replacement box I wound up taking the cover off the relay after opening up the fuse box and sticking a piece of 1/4" tubing in the relay to hold it closed. Several years later, still have power outlets that are on all the time. Not a big deal since I don't leave stuff plugged in. Back in my teen years, the cigar lighter socket was always hot, so just unplugged whatever when not in use, a habit that has stuck with me for 35 years.
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How do you drive if the axle cannot turn? Sorry I am just having a hard time understanding exactly what is going on. Probably a translation problem, we are probably using different terms for things.
So you have the transfer case in 2wd, both front wheels off the ground, and turning the wheels by hand. When you turn the left wheel, it spins ok, but when you do the same with the right it will only turn 1/4 turn and will stop and not move?
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With Nissans, the bolts that have a 12mm head are usually 8mm with a 1.25 thread. If I recall correctly, that is the size used there.
The tone ring is pressed on and will have to be pressed or cut off. If cut, a new one will be needed, and yes, it is a bit delicate. I have used a bearing separator in the past, but be warned, it is a specialty tool and they get expensive when they get big enough.
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If your R50 is stock, neither left or right CV axle should be able to turn without the wheels turning. They use a splined drive flange bolted to the wheel hub. If you are wanting to unlock the axles from the wheels, you will need to replace the drive flanges with locking hubs from a WD21 Pathfinder, or V6 D21 pickup. First gen Xterra and Frontier are another possibility. Unless you get lucky, what you will find on these trucks are auto hubs. If you want manual, you will need to look to the aftermarket.
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Funny thing is, my mod was pretty much doing what Nissan did with the manual transmission trucks. With them, the common problem was the starter relay failing.
I'll be happy to send you the diagram when I get home tonight.
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Yep, I am the one that posted the starter mod. Did that back when AC was Nissan only and had an active discussion forum.
Still have the diagram I drew up stashed away in a dusty corner of my hard drive. I much less savvy these days and a hard time figuring out how to do pictures, but can email.
Basically what I did with my Pathfinder was seperate the connector I mentioned before. I then used a standard Bosch style 30 amp relay. The harness side black/violet wire went to terminal 85 on the relay. Ran a wire from terminal 86 to ground(the coil is non polarized so can be reversed, works the same). Ran a 12 gauge wire from the positive terminal of the battery to terminal 30 on the relay. Finally, the black/violet wire going to the starter was attached to terminal 87.
The relay will reliably operate down to 6 volts, so it covered the problem that was in my ignition switch. When the relay triggered, it fed full battery power through the very short circuit between the battery and starter. I still have a relay in there to run the starter but these days it is fired by the keyless ignition I installed.
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My problem with the poly bushings might just be a combination of my crappy luck and the environment I live in. Seems what happens to them with me, is dirt and sand gets between the bushing and the inner sleeve, then starts grinding away on the bushing. After about a year the sleeve is flopping around in the bushing. Didn't seem to matter if I installed them dry(squeeked horribly), used paste lube, or dry lube. They just wore out around the sleeve. The environment here is pretty dry, so plenty of dry dirt willing to act like sandpaper.
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Don't see why not. Only differences I can think of is the ABS and that is no problem
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I am different. The only poly bushings I used was the UCA bushings, but I got tired of getting less than 10k miles out of them before they were worn out enough to clunk. After the 3rd set, put in the extra effort and run the rubber. Those give me much better life. That said, still have the original front lower control arm bushings. Oddly they don't seem to have worn out on my truck. Every other bushings have been replaced a few times.
Just remember to mark your torsion bars so they go back in the way they are now. Installing them backwards and or on the wrong sides can lead to breakage. I suggest getting replacement bolts for the LCA before you start, odds are they will not come out clean.
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230000 miles on the original U-joints in my 93. More than a few of them off pavement in Utahs forgiving climate. No problems with them, so no plans to replace. Plenty of other things to work on if I can find the interest. Working on automobiles 50+ hours per week, I don't have much interest in working on mine.
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Had carbs in the past, yes I am old. I refuse to go back to them. Partly because of where I live, get temp swings of 40°f in a day, can change elevation by over 5k feet in 30 miles and do regularly. I like the better fuel economy, better power/response that fuel injection offers and know that it will start when I need it to.
Honestly with a VG, a carb will not give any benefit. If you do switch over to a carb, you will also have to find a distributor to go with it. The one in there is run by the ECU and it will get mad when it can't control the fuel. You think you are having issues now, you will find a carburetor conversion to be more expensive and difficult than just fixing the existing system.
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I suggest pulling the distributor cap and rotor. Then inspect the cap and rotor for damage. I also suggest removing the dust plate in the bottom of the distributor under the rotor. Look for red or silver dust under the sensor plate. That dust will indicate the bearings in the distributor are failing/failed. Very common problem I have seen here in my area with the VG33 in the R50 Pathfinder. Don't know why I don't see it in the Frontier and Xterra, but seen it a lot in the Pathfinder.
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The info doesn't go to the dealer, it goes to a part of Nissan Corporate. The info that the system requires to release the code is the VIN, the ID code in the BCM for the immobilizer, the person doing the key program, and the identification code assigned to the locksmith or dealership. That is the basics that I remember anyway. The dealership doesn't know or need to know about that, it is information that was put in a different browser than the Consult software. When you got the release code assigned to that particular BCM, you put it in using Consult to put the immobilizer into learn mode.
As I said before, it is much harder to bypass the immobilizer than hollywierd makes it. If I was interested in stealing cars, I would use a rollback tow truck. Much faster, easier, and less destructive to take a car that way and if anyone saw it, they would just assume it is a legal tow or repo.
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From what I have gone through and seen, I am going to recommend a NEW ignition switch. It is cheap and easy to replace.
If you have an auto trans, next to the battery, you will find a grey oval connector with 2 wires. One wire will be yellow with a blue stripe and quite thin. The other wire will be heavy and black with a violet stripe. If you seperate that connector and use a volt meter with the positive probe on the black wire on the harness plug and the negative probe on the negative battery post, have somebody turn the ignition to start. You should have battery voltage. You will probably have 9v or less. That circuit is quite long and goes through a few switches and relays, but still shouldn't be more than 1v drop.
If you have a manual transmission, you will find a large(double sized) relay next to the transmission. Same thing there though. Unplug the relay and check the voltage on the thick black/violet wire.
It is very common for older Nissans to have the starter contact in the ignition switch to fail after 10-20 years. Had that happen with all my old Datsuns from the late 70s and 80s. I made the discovery that the switch was failing in my 93 last year when I pulled it for my keyless ignition system installation.
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The Toyota method is what I used on my friends 95 Pathfinder while camping in Moab. It can work, but it is miserable and if any access to a press is possible, that is a much easier and less painful way to go.
With the ABS tone ring, it gets more difficult since you don't want to hurt it.
I did a few rear axle bearings on later Fronter/Xterras that have the small lug pattern. Even with the special tools at the dealership, it was a destructive process. With those, the bearing retainer has to be broken to remove. The process was to drill a hole in the retainer ring then use a hammer and chisel to crack it where the hole was. We found it easier to use a die-grinder with a small cut-off wheel to cut most of the way through the retainer then get violent with the hammer and chisel. With those, a press was the only way it was going back together with new parts. The one we had had a pressure gauge and it would usually run between 13-17k psi to seat the retainer.
Good times, glad I haven't had to deal with them at my current job. The evil first gen IRS Explorer rear wheel bearings are bad enough. We will just say that it got a new hub to go with the new bearing and it can't be tight if it is liquid.
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The couple times I had the 605 code, it took a new ECU to fix it.
Unlike Mopar, Nissan systems don't get mad and ignore a module with the wrong VIN in it, so changing the VIN is just to make life easier for the guy doing emissions tests.
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The braided I got for mine helped. They are longer so don't act like limiting straps for me. Also DOT cerified, so have the braid covered to prevent problems with dirt abrasions outside diameter is smaller so if you have clearance concerns, a plus there. Over all, not a noticable difference in normal driving, but did notice a slight difference in pedal height and firmness under hard braking. For the record, I have managed to lock up the 33x12.50's on my Pathfinder a few times. Not easy or fun, but a bit comforting to know that the brakes can apply that kind of pressure.
I am running ceramic pads and slotted/drilled rotors. I opted for rotors that are designed for it rather than the regular ones that got machined. The construction is a little different and have been working great for me. But what works for me, is often different than what works for others. The stock 3.3 from an Xterra shifts my truck along fine. Have no problems keeping up with traffic or reaching freeway speeds on the on ramps, but hear all the time how under powered they are. Last winter got a F350 sunk to the axles in the snow out and rolling, though I think the kenetic rope was a factor as well.
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You could get creative and make that space into another storage box and/or just put a Dashmat over it.
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Around here salvage yards won't sell airbags either since the Takita recalls. It is a violation of Utah law apparently.
The covers are an integral part of the airbag, so not replaceable seperately.
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The Duratracs are a good general purpose tire. The state Fish and Game here in the northern part of the state are running them on their trucks.
My 2004 Sorento had Firestone Destination LE when I inherited it from my sister. When my mom bought it new it had Michelin tires that even she hated. We put the Destination LE on because it stayed on the pavement most of the time with just some dirt roads when my mom went camping. I ran them until they wore out(my sister had replaced them once or twice while she had the truck) and then I put a set of Bridgestone Dueler Revos on because it saw more off pavement use with me. They worked great for me, but they did get slippery when they got down to 4/32" and my daughter put a set of Ironman ATs on. She seems happy with them (I lost the Sorento to her a bit over a year ago, my Pathfinder is not happy being a DD again and living on the pavement again).
Many years ago, I had BFG AT on my truck, the first gen and I found them a bit disappointing. They worked ok, but not great for me.
I have always paid the extra for LTs on the SUVs I have had because I like having the stronger tire on my trucks because I do go off pavement. I have also stuck with the load range C, (10 ply) because I felt the heavier D and E are too stiff and heavy for good performance in my applications.
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Been running a K&N in mine for 21 years. Still have the same MAF sensor it had when I bought my truck Feb 99. If the filter is oiled properly, there is no problems. One of those situations of less is more. When the filter is over oiled like many people do is when you get problems of oil on the MAF sensor.
Actually on my second K&N. The first one died a terrible death protecting my engine when the mud hole got too deep and the airbox filled with mud. Clogged the filter and the suction unfolded and mangled the mesh.
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Yep, did the install in the middle of the night. Both my friend and I were scrambling to get ready for a week in Moab so swapped the center sections of our Pathfinders after work the night before we left for a week of 'wheelin and camping. Only took us about 4 hours to swap centers, install the LockRight, and some other last minute work on our trucks. It really is a simple project and doesn't even need to adjust the gear mesh since you don't touch the gears.
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The locker will only lock while under load. If you maintain or let off the throttle, or push in the clutch, it unloads and allows the wheels to have different speeds. It basically acts like a ratchet and will let the outside wheel speed up in turns so you are not fighting the turn. Hit the throttle in the turn, and it loads up and locks the axle so the inner tire is forced to try and turn faster than it normally would. One of w things will happen, either the grip will be high enough that the truck will plow straight in a turn, or the inside tire will break traction and either make a lot of chirping/squalling, and or snap the back end out when the outside tire breaks free as well. One reason I disliked daily driving my truck on snowy city roads. Other reason was I just knew some idiot without insurance would hit me.
With a manual transmission, you will find the LockRight pretty easy to live with in all reality. Just a bit of a learning process, then you won't really think of it, but will love the extra traction until you find that a locker like 4wd is great at getting stuck deeper. But then again, getting stuck is part of the fun. At least for me it is, it adds interest and knowledge. We tend to learn more from our mistakes than when coasting after all.
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Hmm, don't know with that one. I went the simple and cheap route of buying a LockRight for the open H233B and traded center sections with a friend that had an open but wanted my LSD. Both WD21s had autos and 4wd, so didn't have to mess with the gears.
There was a bit of a learning experience with the autolocker, but my LSD was a good one with a higher break away torque, so not too bad. It is funny watching the expression on friends faces when in a parking lot and I power brake with the front wheels turned and they see the truck go straight pushing the front tires sideways.
Logie Trail
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Yep, mine held up fine until about 4 years ago. The tops of the front fenders and hood are in had shape from a combination of high UV, neglect, and weather. Hmmm, thinking about it now, the front fenders are not original, and it is possible that the paint on the hood might not be also. That might explain why it is so bad there, but the rest of the truck surprisingly good.