Mr_Reverse
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Posts posted by Mr_Reverse
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Oh, I think the Firestone has the thickest tread also. I think mine were 24/32" new. Not sure with the Wildpeaks, but my Destinations are pretty light weight. My 33x12.50 15's mounted on a set of Ultra aluminum wheels actually weigh a bit less than the 31x10.50 15 BFG AT I had on my stock aluminum wheels back when my truck was new to me.
People around here don't seem to be too happy with the current version of the BFG. A lot of them have really liked the Goodyear Dura Trac. Apparently they are really good in snow and rocks.
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No idea. Mine didn't have it. I suspect that it might prevent proper assembly since the axle shaft is different between the disc and drum brake H233B.
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Never heard of them. What are they supposed to do?
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Lol, yep, that little block floating in there keeps the axles pressed into the bearings. The rear disc H233B uses a double bearing setup so doesn't have the spacer. As my buddy and I discovered, very important in the drum brake axle.
And as far as weight of the T-case, it is heavier than the auto trans my truck has. Tough though, only parts I haven't messed with in the 21 years with my Pathfinder is the front diff and t-case.
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My favorite has been the Firestone Destination MT. The MT designation is for Maximum Traction rather than the Mud Terrain, and they live up to their name. Started with the first gen back in 07, and was amazed at the grip they give in everything including snow. Last year, replaced them with the second generation (the current one) and found them to be even better. 13 years, and never had a flat, and survived several Moab trips.
Have to figure out a new photo host and how to do all this photo stuff. Used to use Photobucket, but they decided ads didn't bring in enough. Oddly I can still see the pics with my computer, but can't make it work with my phone.
In this photo on Kane Creek, I was running a bit high, I had about 13 psi. Those were the first gen. I spent last winter romping around in the snow up in the mountains mostly in 2wd till I needed more. Got bogged down once pulling a F350 out up there, but once the rope was unhooked, was able to climb back out of the hole. Reattached and managed to get the Ford out, kinetic rope is fantastic. The tires have held up great on the pavement with my locker and loaded truck.
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Easy test is to remove the front driveline and go for a test drive. If vibes go away, it is in the driveline and I will bet it is a failing U-joint that will become noticable when the driveline is removed.
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Just wait till you pull the t-case. That little thing is heavier than the trans.
If you have the drum brakes, make sure you get that little spacer block in the center of the diff, into the middle of the locker. Made that mistake on my buddies 95 when we swapped centers between our trucks. Mine has rear disc, his had drums. He wanted my LED, I wanted his open for a locker. We made the swaps in my driveway the night before a week in Moab. Didn't realize that little block needed to be removed from his center and put into mine that was going into his truck. 4 hours down the highway, stopped for fuel and found the right axle seal in his truck died. Got to Moab, replaced the seal and bearing in camp, and a couple days later was leaking again. Got home, replaced seal and bearing again, installed the block and problem never came back.
Such fun.
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After tightening with the high torque, spin the hub through several rotations in both directions to settle the bearings, turn back the nut until it turns easily then do the final torque to the 13ish ft/lbs. If the holes don't line up for the screws, you can turn the nut either direction to line up.
I personally use a full synthetic wheel bearing grease to pack my bearings, and then I fill the gap between the inner and outer bearings with more grease up to the edges of inner bearing races to give a smaller air gap for water to get into. Has worked well for me for the 21 years I have had my pathy and I don't recall ever having to replace the bearings. I have cleaned and repacked them a few times over the years, but l think less than 6 times. Generally only did it when replacing the brake rotors or had the hubs off for some other reason. I don't Go into the deep mud and water as much as I did the first 8 years I had my truck, so water intrusion is less of a concern than it used to be, but even then never saw any issues there due to using new seals anytime I took it apart and the extra grease packing I did. It is just the way I was taught to do bearings as a kid 40 years ago by my farmer grand parents and other relatives.
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When you were talking about new hubs for your truck, I was a bit mystified, that is what is done on the modern ones, but older ones like yours, the only time you replace the hub is if it gets damaged like it bent, bearing race spins in the hub, or lug stud hole gets stripped out. With the old design of your truck, it is just the bearings and seals that wear and require service/replacement in normal use. Also usually have to get bearings and seals seperate since the hub is usually just the hub.
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The measurements are done by weight with the AC. You can't really go by psi because temperature has a huge effect on the pressures.
If you have only replaced the condenser and dryer, and did not flush out the system, I generally add 1-2 oz of oil to the system. I then pull a vacuum for a few minutes on the system to ensure no leaks and remove as much air and moisture as possible. Then I charge with the amount of refrigerant that the label or manual if the label is missing calls for. Then with the AC running I will watch the pressures to see how well it is working, but that is watching the differential between the high and low sides. As a general rule with most 134a systems, at 80°f environment, low side is usually 30-45 psi with high side about 180-260 psi.
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My hearing is shot, and the speakers on my phone are not the best, so I have a hard time with diagnosing noises without being there in person. Random loud pops are not a noise I have ever heard from a valvetrain. I have run the full range of filters myself and my truck currently has a Parts Master filter on it. There is only like 5 oil filter manufacturers in the world, so the filter is not really an issue, but trying a manufacturer branded filter does eliminate a possibility of an incorrect filter valve/media issue.
Just a random side track, the original VG30 in my 93 Pathfinder was happy with Bosch +4 sparkplugs and hated the factory NGKs. The current engine is the opposite. Just pointing out that they do have hard to explain quirks.
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Best option with the throttle body injection system in those old trucks is to replace the entire throttle body assembly with a quality unit. It is pricey, but in the longer run, the better option.
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Try the 5W-30. I found years ago when building a Frankenstein NAPS-Z for my 1980 200sx 25 years ago that Nissan engines were harder to build than old American engines due to the much tighter tolerances required in them. Those tight tolerances make using higher viscosity oils a problem.
Crazy idea, but I do suggest using a Nissan oil filter and the 5W-30 that Nissan recommends for your engine.
My previously mentioned 200sx had what I initially thought was valve clatter, it had solid lifters so did require valve adjustments, but after checking several times finally did track it down to the injectors in that engine.
My 93 Pathfinder had a crankshaft sprocket key fail at about 208k miles. The valves never made noise until they got introduced to the pistons. Milage is unknown on my current VG33 in that truck(3rd truck the engine has been installed in) and at hot idle, my oil pressure drops to less than 10 psi according to the Autometer pressure gauge I have in there currently. The valves are still quiet. This engine has had only 3 oil changes in the last 5 years, so not treated the best. Granted, the truck has had only about 7k miles in the last 5 years, but time does it's own damage to the oil.
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An impact screwdriver is a must for removing the tiny Phillips head locking screws that hold the bearing nut lock to the bearing nut. The screws are tight but soft so cam out easily. An impact driver works great to pop them loose without damage.
You will want to replace the seals as well while you are in there.
A pair of small external snap-ring pliers makes life easier to get the snap-ring off the axle end to get the drive flange off.
The drive flanges use cone washers under the nuts. What I do is loosen the nuts out to the ends of the studs, then I wack the side of the flange with a small hammer to pop them loose. When all 6 are loose, then I finish removing the nuts and washers. Then the flange should slide off.
Other than that, pretty much normal old school wheel bearing replacement.
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Well, it is a dry heat here in the second driest state in the union. Only Nevada gets less water. Here 30% is considered high. I almost died when I spent a couple years in northern Virginia, I decided that 95%+ humidity is hell. That was 30 years ago, before the global warming religion got started.
Then again, anything over 70°f is hot for me. Just haven't had the money and need for the AC in my truck, though I might this year since it has become my DD again.
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Without looking at the data, I would suspect the temperature sensor being the source of the problem. If the ECU sees the trans temp too cold, it does strange things with the shifting to bring it up to operating temperature as quickly as possible.
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My LED bulbs in my stock housings don't seem to bother other drivers. At least they don't give any indication that they do. Now if the high beam and or the aux lights are on, then they do tend to let their unhappiness know. Got pulled over a couple months ago because I forgot to turn off the 28" light bar one night after coming out of the mountains. The nice officer let me go with just a verbal and commented that the bar was bright. Haven't had any official comments from the headlights, possibly because I got bulbs that mimic the filiment placement and did aim the lights to state specs. Still gives plenty of white light for my old eyes to see.
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When I did the 3.3 swap on my Pathfinder, I swapped the intake plenum, distributor, exhaust manifold and I think the coolant pipe under the intake manifold from my original 3.0. I did keep the 3.3 injectors, so that involved rebuilding the engine wiring subharness to let it plug into the main harness and have the connectors that fit the newer injectors and older distributor.
The R50 had different plumbing for the heater and coolant lines and the accessories are located differently. I simply used the mounting brackets from Frontier/Xterra VG33 engines and a steering pump from a Frontier/Xterra. My Alternator was from a 90's Quest/Villager and mounted up fine. I still don't have AC, after more than 13 years, but a compressor from an Xterra/Frontier should work fine, might have to get some hoses made to adapt. That let me use the flat multi ribbed belts the 33 uses without going through the fun and games of adapting the 3.0 harmonic balancer.
You can either extend the oil pressure switch wire or you can move the oil pressure switch from the oil filter adapter to the side of the block above the starter where the 3.0 has it, and the plug to the filter adapter.
Over all, it is a simple swap since the 3.0 and 3.3 have basically the same block and heads.
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There is a seal between the valve cover and the tube that the spark plug is in. That seal is known to leak. If you have the aluminum valve covers, then the seals are replaceable. If you have the plastic covers, then the cover needs to be replaced since the seals are not replaceable in them.
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Your data is not what Nissan and most other software gives.
The sensors are identified as bank 1 or bank 2 sensor 1 to identify which upstream sensor. My scan tool pretty much identifies the right upstream sensor as O2S1B1 with the VG engines. O2S1B1 would be for the left.
Regardless, the 2 sensors should be giving similar info.
Injector measurements are in milliseconds and the O2 sensors are usually in millivolt.
I have no idea what your software is using.
If one bank is off from the other, it is likely a sensor problem, injector problem, a leak on one bank, or possibly a cam off a tooth.
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Check the U-joints on the front driveline. A worn joint is a common source of vibration on an R50.
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About the only practical change I can think of is to do the Hardbody swap. Swap the headlight buckets and grille from a 90 to 96 Hardbody pickup and then get your aftermarket square sealed beam headlight conversation lights.
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Not really. The VG33 has cats mounted to the exhaust manifolds and your WD21 simply isn't built to have them there. The rest of the exhaust is no better either.
With mine, I have a VG33 with VG30 manifolds. Stock pipes to the cat. My cat had failed long ago so I had a Magnaflow cat with a 2.25" pipe and turbo muffler installed from the stock cat location out to the back. The real restrictions are in the heads rather than the exhaust.
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I have both on my Pathfinder. If I was to do it again, I would do the bodylift and save up for a solid axle swap. However, my lifting was for off pavement performance rather than looks.
The only way to get a true increase of ground clearance is to fit bigger tires. The lowest point is the bottom of the rear diff and larger tires is the only way to get more unless you fit portals, but that is way beyond even a SAS.
With the 3" SL, you are still stuck running the same size tires. The front suspension still has the same range of movement, so the lift is only static. You will also be forcing the front suspension and steering to be working outside the design angles, so you will be wearing parts like steering parts and ball joints much faster. The compression rod to frame interface is less than ideal as well. Alignments are already hard to get done properly due to the old design, and changing the angles makes it worse. When I had just the suspension lift and aftermarket wheels with 32x11.50 tires, I was looking at replacing all 4 tierods, the idler arm,(I did have the brace, but the arm itself would bend), centerlink, and alignment anytime I used 4lo on anything but loose surfaces. I ran on rocks a lot, went through a lot of front end and steering parts. Got worse when I moved up to 33's. I also tend to break the inner CV boots and joints.
With stock alloy wheels or replacements with the same dimensions, you can fit 33" tires with a bodylift because you have actually lifted the body away from the tires. You also lift only the body, do the center of gravity raises a little bit because the engine, trans,t-case, and frame stay lower.
I personally found the bodylift easier than the 3" suspension lift. The bumpers are flimsy on our trucks to begin with, so I don't find the relocation brackets to be a weakness. The fuel filler extension is simple and I simply replaced a few other hoses. I did bend my transfer case shifter to get low range back, but a few years later I replaced the shifter with one from a pickup that fit better (the 4x4 pickup body sits about 1.5" higher than the Pathfinder). I found the bodylift made working on the truck easier by giving me more room around the engine and frame.
That is my personal findings and opinions, others have their own.
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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
Posted
Easiest way to go to disc brakes in my opinion is to just swap the whole axle assembly. My local salvage yards sell complete axle assemblies for about $75, so just makes sense to me. Also need the master cylinder and park brake cables, but for less than $200, a simple and inexpensive way to upgrade the brakes.