djratlif

Hi and welcome to the forum. I found in my 1992 that the air distribution box was full of leaves and pine needles from years past, giving a rank smell all the time. Cleaned it out and the smell got better. There is a thread pinned on here somewhere about cleaning around the blower resistor. Also a serious fire hazard too.

Wish I could help man, not my department on that one. Seems like they would be a "quick and easy" swap, but I am not sure of the difference in crossmembers, oil pans, or torsion bar setup. Seems like the 2wd has a tension rod up on the front of the control arm where as the 4wd has a strut rod to the rear? I'm only going from memory here but I know my 2wd Frontier was staying that way for a reason, and I think its because it was not a quick and easy thing like I wanted. This is all speculation on my part, I'm going off the newer WD/D22 chassis vs the older WD/D21.

Haha that is pretty much what I was gonna go with, but no torches so just substitute sawzall/demo saw. And the wrecker would be nice too but alas I have a lowly engine hoist. I'll report back once I get to pulling it.

Still not sure which way to go, I just want to do it and be done. I'll just take a few days off and go after it like a mad man. I need the space for other projects but I can't see ditching the good stuff. Currently eyeballing a 2001 Xterra and a Datsun 240z to add to the collection but the code enforcement guy will notice for sure.... darn Nissan addiction

Hey everyone, I have a 1998 Pathfinder with the 3.3L and auto trans for a donor truck to my older wd21. I am planned on pulling the engine and transmission/transfer case, along with some evap stuff that matches my 2000 Frontier. What is the easiest way to go about it? Should I separate the motor/trans and do it piece by piece or leave it together? I am not opposed to cutting anything apart either, as it is going to the scrap heap afterwards anyway. Just seeing if anyone has pointers that has maybe done it before. I was thinking just cutting the radiator support and then the cross members and pulling it out the front as one unit.

The one next to the oil filter is the oil pressure sensor. Common problem after people change the starter. The wire rips off when you change it. (speaking from experience unfortunately) Look for a small wire dangling around the area. Usually easy to spot.

I did this about a year ago and had 3 break off on the drivers side, and all 3 recessed into the head. You don't need to pull the engine or any funny business like that, although its not much fun either way. I bought a dewalt 3/8 drill chuck adapter along with a 10 or 12" drill bit extension and went in from the wheel well. Make sure to use a center punch to start the pilot hole and work your way up in size afterwards. Using left hand bits I was able to get most of the way through and extract 1, the other 2 had to be heli-coiled. You can also drill/tap the new holes to accept the larger m10 studs on the newer blocks instead of heli coil, which is probably be the right way to go. I was feeling lazy after all that drilling....

I've had only two run ins with them out of about a dozen orders. First was a wheel cylinder boxed wrong, right number but wrong part. They sent me a new one, correct, in about 3 days and told me to scrap/keep the wrong one as well. The other was a bearing that went bad under the 12month/12K mile warranty. They replaced that as well with no issue. The bearing was crap though... never buy pronto wheel bearings again

I agree, I grabbed a 1998 the other day for $300, runs like a top but unfortunately the rust got it. Now I have a spare motor and trans if mine blow, and I can get a lot of the cash back with scrap/selling parts

Tried to really shove on the door with the handle pulled, still nothing. Pretty sure the latch is stuck closed. If I pull the front fender and then try to pull the hinges, will the door come off, or will the latch still grab and hold it on? It seems like the latch would still grab and hold on. I don't wanna ruin anything but man this is getting old having my girl climb over the center console...

Yes the door handles are hooked up, and the rods are still on them as well. They can be pulled but it won't do anything, almost as if it was locked. I will try to give it a hard shove, maybe its just stuck or something for now.

I am working on my pathfinder currently correcting some issues and ran into one I can't seem to figure out. My passenger door will not open at all from the inside or outside. The latch seems to be froze up or something and I can't get it to unlock/open for the life of me. I hooked the unlock arm, or what I thought was the arm and tried to coerce it to open, but nothing so far. Any tip or tricks to doing this or am I taking the fender off and hinges and going that way? Thanks in advance, Derek

I have had a hard start issue for a long time now as well, also with a 1992 wd21. Replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter and cleaned MAF sensor. Still not starting well, although it clears up after a bit. Starting to wonder if a fuel injector is leaking down when I shut it off, flooding it out every time I go to start it. I haven't been too too concerned because it always starts but really wondering why its doing it. Already checked fuel pressure, coil pack, and compression to make sure I didn't have a weak cylinder. Not popping any codes, but seems like these older computers never really do...

That is the useful information I was looking for, thanks a bunch. I will probably just take a seat out of the parts R50 I have and see if it bolts in like they say. I should have mentioned that I have one sitting around just waiting to be cannibalized.

The engine and transmission will still be used as a donor for the older/tired set in the WD21. As for the rest... it may end up in pathy heaven. My lot is getting full with all the Nissan stuff I have been acquiring and the town code officer is kinda clamping down on unregistered vehicles on the property.

And I thought I was bad with hording Nissans... lol I have 4 myself and the girlfriend is starting to tell me I have enough. I just can't leave a good deal be though.

I was at a pick and pull recently and found a really nice set of heated leather seats in a wrecked R50. I have a 1992 WD21 that I am going to be plowing with and would really like the heated seat option. Does anyone know if the seats are a complete different frame or are they interchangeable without too much modification? I know I'll have to wire them in myself, but if the frames are different I will abandon the project and look for the more elusive WD21 seats at pick and pulls. Thanks, Derek

The WD21 selection around here is almost non existent. They have rotted long ago and most have seen the crusher due to the rust issues. I did see a few left in a back wooded part of a pick and pull the other day though. Maybe I'll slide down there next week and check to see. One already has infinity door speakers they want $10 for, and I want some heated leather seats from another R50 they want $50 for.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. From what he is showing it does seem that the shafts will be different lengths and will need to be shimmed or shortened. This is going to be a little more in depth than I was hoping, although it is not my daily driver in the summer so I could just take them both apart and compare the two. Still gonna start researching some more and see what bearings/shafts/seals will be needed if it is possible.

The swap of gears/carriers would be quick if I am remembering correctly. The whole 3rd member would swap with backlash set and all the measurements correct. I am new to the whole 3rd member design, usually working with GM axles from 1999+. Being both H233B axles, the housings should be the same length? Correct?

Right now I have been driving a 1992 WD21 for a few years and just recently bought a 1998 R50 on a whim because the price was good. The rust on the R50 is too much for me so I am planned on using the drive train to replace the old stuff in the WD21. The first thing I want is the Limited Slip out of the rear of the R50, but with different spline counts on the shafts I can't simply swap it in from what I have gathered so far. Does anyone here know if I can swap the carrier/gears along with the axle shafts from the newer R50 into the older WD21 housing? Any help is appreciated on my end. The R50 seems to crawl around in 2wd with bald tires better than the WD21 in 4wd with new Wrangler Authority tires on it.

Bringing up a dead thread here. I have a WD21 with an open differential, and another parts R50 with a limited slip next to it. I would like the WD21 to have the LS but being the spline counts are different, I can't just change the carriers. Does anyone know if the axle shafts and third member can all be swapped into the older housing from the R50?

no codes right now that I know of, the dash is kinda screwy though anyway so the light probably won't turn on anyway. I haven't checked any of the sensors yet but that will be added to the list now.

First off, I have been loaning my beloved pathfinder to my brother for a few months as his car has been down and no cash to fix it. I got a call yesterday and he told me it was running like crap, and sounded like a Harley when he tried to move it. It has been having issues for a few months with a rough start and idle until it warmed up, after which it ran fine and all was well. Now it is doing the same stumble as before, but not clearing up after a few minutes. This is accompanied by a lot of soot pouring out of the tailpipe with some heavy smoke. I can't smell coolant, and when I checked the radiator the coolant was not showing contamination. I am thinking maybe something is wrong with a valve seal and guide somewhere, but didn't think it was a common problem for these. The truck has over 215K miles though, and has had a rough past before me from what I can tell. Does this sound like a feasible problem or has anyone got any other places for me to check? I haven't had time to check compression yet to see if there is a problem for sure with the engine. Any help is appreciated, Derek