SpecialWarr

Agreed, 7 liters is a lot of oil for a 2.7!!

I'll preface this post with a warning that I'm not very good with electrical stuff so if you could be kind that would be appreciated! The beast is the V6wagon and right now I'm missing the high beam on the left side of the truck only. I found one wire that was exposed and checked that there was power with the lights on (0v), off (0v) and on high (0v). The wire is red with a blue stripe. I'm looking at EL-40 in the FSM and found the Daytime Lights Control Unit on the truck but all of the wires are green with corrosion and most are not attached. My question is how do I track down the open wire OR how can I bypass the DLCU to get nightime driving safety back?? sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

I'm running a WD21 with the VG 30. I don't think we ever had the 2.7 here in North America. Which is sad because that would have been cool sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

I'll get you a couple of pictures tomorrow to add to the confusion and post them up. It's getting dark now and it's raining! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

What I don't get is how it is that mine doesn't even read on the level indicator but about an inch above the top of it??? I still have only 3.5 liters of oil in it and recover 3.4 litres at every oil change. sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

I would guess that the fuel sender needs to have the ground cleaned and re-installed at the tank. There is an access port under the carpet in the rear of the truck. sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

I just wanted to say thanks and that I look forward to looking forward in the near future! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Just give me until the weekend and take a look at the Wall of Shame.... you'll see what mine looks like. sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Yea but that wire wheel just lets the rust have more of the steel that it's after because we end up re-doing that work 3 years later and it doesn't look any different!! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

ROFL!!! That's awesome! !!! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

1990 VG30E SE with 88k and some small change with about $1750 in new parts on it in the last 9 minths due to lack of use and regular maintenance issues from the 2 POs. Like Pav, I live in a frozen waistland so decent liters/100kms is difficult but with the basic timing adjusted correctly now, I get about 535kms out of the whole 80 liter tank. Measured over the last three tankfuls of gas 50% city and 50% highway and taking it easy most of the time. sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

+1with teixeira.... love the photo! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

I didn't think to check the evap can. I did find the top rear passenger side exhaust stud in my hand two nights ago..... the top half anyway. Not my doing, I just heard something loose and metallic over the crap bearing whine and loose power steering belt. I did order an IACV which showed up today but I'll have to wait until the weekend to install it as I'm going to be doing the fuel regulator and confirming that -all- of the fuel injectors are good. March has been a busy month: truck issues, apartment issues, ex-fiancee issues, money issues.... I'm needin a vacation! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Hey hey guess what I found this afternoon after taking off the heat shield! That's right, a broken stud with nut attached. So I guess I'll be on this project in the next while, needless to say that the rest of the nuts are moving on the passenger side but that doesn't mean they are going to play nice. It's just too bad that this is my daily driver. Wish me luck!!!

Survey says: not a single code to be had after the drive around the city. Time to visit the rest of the injectors and check their connections but I'll wait until the IACV and fuel pressure regulator arrive for that.....or maybe I just think it sounds "off"?? I don't know. sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Sorry for the misquote Precise 1. You are correct, 10-14ohms was for the injector resistance NOT the wire resistance.... I was pulling that from memory from the other topic. My bad! I seem to be missing that page from my FSM .... unless it's somwhere that I haven't read yet! I'm going to reattach the ground and take the truck for a short drive and see what codes I can get out of it today. I'll post up later this afternoon with some results. Thanks again for the help and pointers! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Previous Owner sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

I see that these trucks are not common.... I can't get any parts at any of my usual places! I ordered NGK ignition wires from Rock Auto today and changed the new wires for 4 and 6 for my old ones which still work but I'm not hearing any real change to the tone of the motor, it doesn't mis-fire anymore though! BUT the truck appears to have lost power with the addition of two more operating cylinders. I think the next thing is to look for air leakage between the MAF and the O2 sensor again since I don't really know what else to do. I don't know if this is going to help but I pulled the neg. battery cable and I'm going to reattach it tomorrow. Maybe I can ask the ECU to do what I want.

Plug wires 123 and 5 are between 5.5 and 9.5 ohms..... 4 and 6 however are 1.25 ohms each..... I suspect that may be the funky mis-fire. And there goes another paycheque into truck parts. sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Alrighty, fuel filter installed but there is little change in the motor it still appears to be missing on at least one cylinder. The IACV drops the revs about 100-ish RPMs when the steering is at full lock and pulling on the wheel. Maybe one of the new plug wires is bad? 10-14 ohms says the Precise 1. ...so off to check those right now. sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

The PCV is new-ish but I'll check it again, maybe it doesn't like the downshift off of the highway? fixinto: thanks for the ideas and help! The injector was just a loose connection, now the injector works. I had a terrible sleep last night but a moment of DOH! this morning!!! It occured to me that all of this started after goofing around with the truck two weeks ago. I wonder if I might have dislodged some junk in the gas tank?? Bunged up the fuel filter?? bushnut you are a genius! Now I just have to find a fuel filter. sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

As an idea I think it's a good one..... it may also be possible to do that with the sun shade!! Thanks! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Thanks guys! Vacuum tubing is now done and no change, MAF was cleaned while I was doing the vacuum tubing tonight. The TPS was installed months ago and has been working flawlessly since. The only thing that I found suspect was #1 fuel injector connection was loose ( I repaired that last week just before this whole thing started). I pulled plug wires while idling and every one chaned the rhythm of the motor, the plugs are in since July last year when I set the gap by eye at 0.034".... :-) I've already ordered a fuel pressure regulator since it costs as much as the tool and I'll get another fuel filter to install at the same time (oops didn't mention that I installed a new sending unit in the tank two months ago); an IACV is also on the way from rockauto. Geez I sound like in worse shape than Mr.eViLdEaD.... at least he has real trouble. ...I just have a truck that sounds funny at idle. If anyone has any more ideas just throw them out and I'll happily take a run at it (blind enthusiasm and tools are a dangerous thing in my hands)!! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

After having spent a good part of my free time last summer under the hood, the transmission, the suspension, the brakes and the body of the new-to-me '90 Pathfinder (and first Nissan) I have run across something that is beyond my my to cope with..... I cannot figure out what is not working. To recall what I have done to the truck so far: new plugs and wires, cap and rotor, rear brake pads, one rocker panel and welded the rear sway-bar link back to the body. Replaced the TPS, added an additional ground to the MAF on the black center wire (not soldered yet, just Union-style twisted contact) and installed a Grant steering wheel. Earlier this week, I was taking an exit ramp off of the highway, I shifted into 2nd and used the brakes to slow down from 70km/hr, when I got to the stop light at the bottom of the hill the engine speed was at 950 to 1000 RPM while in gear at a full stop. I shifted into neutral and it jumped up to about 1500 and started to skip cylinders (I'm guessing that what it was since I'm not a mechanic) it sounded like a low-speed air compressor mixed with regular motor sounds. It stopped at the next light and the idle returned to 700 and jumpy, bouncing from 650-ish to 725. The motor sounds okay at speed, has decent power throughout the rpm range and still gets about 515 kms to the tankful with consistent consumption on my daily commute during the week. I took the timing light to it last night after I arrived home and while it was doing this phhhutt pphhhutt sound the idle was jumping from 700-ish to 1200 and the timing that I could see was going from -22 BTDC to +2 ATDC. I watched it for a few seconds and it switched back and forth from 700 RPM and -22 BTDC to 1200PRM and +2ATDC.... What am I not getting? I can't find anything on here about this particular problem so I hoping that someone can point me in the right direction.... I don't know what to look for or what to look at first, second or third. Please help a broke bicycle mechanic with an FSM that he doesn't know how to read (what is this H.S. and T.S. in that thing anyway!??)

Question: why do we adjust the timing in neutral instead of in park? Are there other things running in neutral? sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder