cvdloc
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Posts posted by cvdloc
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I like that, and that's with the nissan transmission?
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I really like the design of your tcase mount, this might be a stupid question but that's going to be a divorced unit right?
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I am very excited to see this build progress, I have read threw a vg34 build before and I seems like a very good upgrade, I even been thinking of doing up one for the samurai, many people have done the Chevy v6 yet I have came across one thread of a guy using the vg30. But i want the vw diesel more. Maybe one day...
Good luck and I'll be keeping an eye on this build!
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after all the times my friends told me, youd never fit a v8 in there.... this is really cool. i have a couple questions...
how much longer would you say the LT1 is from the VG30? it looks like it was meant to be, from the photos.
Also, why the LT1?
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Honestly probably the one overlooked thing you'll need is, a good tow strap. I would say which but that's a heavy investment. The wd21 are extremely capable, with tires, manual hubs, and tbar crank, you'll make it a lot places. I have owned a set of MM but never used em since the path got wreaked, however if you were a month earlier I could have sold you my factory manual hubs off my 87 hardbody but that's gone now
that is another cheap option for hubs, find an HB 4x4 I'm not sure what year was the cut off but atlease 90 and under have 27 spline hubs and the 4x4 HB come stock with selectable hubs. Anyways good luck -
I have done this swap on a 95 vg30 I picked up a donor truck and swapped everything over that I needed, all the mounting points are there even for the clutch pedal. The transmission crossmember will need to be swapped but bolts to the frame the same. The thing with autos and manuals is the autos had a higher gear ratio I believe 4.6 auto 4.3 manual but it doesn't matter just thought id point it out.
I would look for a junker wd21 with the td that's a manual. You can swap everything including a new center consol which I recommend you grab, modifying the auto can be a pain. You only need 3-4 wires, when you remove to big group of wires, shift the car into park and remove it, this will save you some trouble, lock that in and you'll bypass the lock when you have the car in drive and can't start it. I didn't do that i cut all the wires off, was an unnecessary headache so I warn everyone I can lol
All in all it's not a bad swap, everything lined up so no new drive shafts, like I said all the mounting points are there. I recommend a new clutch maybe pressure plate depending on donor but your typical s... While your there, including the truck new clutch and a couple trips to the scrapers it came to 800$ the. Scrapped the donor for $300. It can be done cheaply.
Anyways I did this 2 years ago... I remember it, but Might forget some details if you have any questions. I know there are one or two threads out there for the vg30 swap but I can see there being a difference with the td? Just make sure the donor has the same engine. Good luck!
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If you are running stock rims or with rims with no offset, then I would grab atlease 1" spacers, you shouldn't have rubbing issues with the body lift. Spacers are hard on your wheel bearings, but ain't terrible, personally I'd look for a set of offset rims (negative or positive not sure which one you need I always get them confused...) I don't like running spacers unless I have too
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If you send an email directly to warn I heard they like sending out rebuild kits for free (rumour has it) but don't hold my word on that.
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I had 31's with stock gearing on my d21 z24. But when you look at the plate inside the engine bay my gearing was 4.3, I guess different years different engine different gears?
Btw the 2 inch body lift is factory on 4x4 HB's and you got the best motor nissan has ever made (personal opinion) the ka24e
Good luck with this! Unfortunately ill be driving my HB to the Junkers Tuesday
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Well, as you guys know my hardbody crapped out and hard wheelin took a toll on the old truck, so I went out a bought myself a 91 Suzuki Samurai.
As you can tell it has some work alrighty done, was looking for a DD/wheeler/project. Something that is ready to hit the trails but not to overly done, and tons of room for improvement during the off seasons. This samurai came with SPOA, 32" tires on 15" shoes, warn hubs, warn 8000lbs winch, 6.5:1 low gear, and a couple other goodies. Needs a few things, fail air care because of no cat, new leafs (PO never replaced) and soft top. Otherwise this beast drives great on the road. I have yet to take it wheeling since I have a shake down period where I keep my eye on things, see what needs to be replaced.
Anyways I'm not abandoning nissan, still love em but I don't have the time or place to make my pathy into what I want it to be, but as soon as a nice rust free first gen wd21 pops up on craigslist you better believe I'll grab it.
I just want to thank you guys for helping trouble shoot my rigs and giving helpful advice! I will be back!
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with the auto hubs you can take them apart and clean em, maybe change out the spring and check for wear, BUT as any members would agree, manual hubs are the way to go. Improves mpg (very slightly but it adds up) and personally never trusted auto hubs, they can pop in and out when rocking. Mile markers are about half the cost as Warn but you pay for what you get.
And if I remember correctly 28 spline are in PF 90-01 & HB 90-97
Forgot to mention factory manual hubs from HB 4x4 with that spline size will work, but those are gems
damn precise1 beat me to it lol
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Any hate for samurai? I'm picking up one this week. As for the zj it seems like my friend always has an issue with his steering arm or whatever from the pitman are to the axle, he replaces it yearly, happened on both of his zj's
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Select drive get 1-4
select 3 get 1-3
select 2 get 2
select 1 get 1
On the side note the auto trans is only a 4 speed? I thought it was a 5, I did have overdrive tho.
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I followed the Haynes manual to be honest, all the bolt holes are there including clutch pedal, lines, etc makes it really yes, but there is a couple tricks, like when you remove the trans you'll notice a bunch of wires and a switch that's controlled with a cable via your shifter, stick it in N or P (someone confirm this for me I'm not to sure since I did it the hard way) then take it off and lock it into position, I cut all the wires and then it was a nightmare to figure out the no start issue after wards. Otherwise if you have a donor and a week or two, also a homie or two doesn't hurt, should be no issue.
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It can be done but you'll have rubbing issues, yet nothing a little trimming cab fix, I'd be worried about the gear ratio and cv shafts
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It seems like a battery issue, a faulty alternator can damage your battery aswell ie: alternator regulator went cooking the battery. I'd replace it but you can preform checks as Alkorahil suggested, another way is if you have a volt meter handy, measure right after you turn off your car after a healthy drive (10min plus) make note of the measurement, then next time you drive it could be 4 hours or 3 days doesn't matter. A healthy battery will read no change or very very little .5v or less but if you read a larger drop this could be as low as .1v pre hour. Chances are it's a faulty battery.
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Sorry it's a bit off topic but has anyone done hydrolic assist on a pathfinder? Using the factory steering box?
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Forest trails with rocks but from living in bc, there will always be mud
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Your best bet is to go to a jy and grab a set of doors. It can be easily wired up, instead of mounting the motor getting rid of the handle and installing the buttons. Replacing the doors will save you time and in the end the cost won't be much different.
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Front shock? I have never in my life seen a lock washer like that. What model pathfinder are you talking about anyways?
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SkiBum, I was looking into an xterra tranny. Will these bolt up? all electronics fit?? If I have to replace, I'm all about an upgrade.
I member on here just did that swap, seemed easy enough but I don't know where the thread is off the top of my head, just search it up, or he might even comment on here.
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I would say 1000lbs would be my guess
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Well the first time got a junk yard auto trans and swapped it out, second time I swapped in a manual
I agree with was Precise1 is saying, one test you can do is when your having these issues stop and smell your auto trans fluid via the dip stick. If it smells burnt, well that ain't good.
I'll admit when I first came across these issues I didn't address the issue, come to think of it what I would have done differently is when I swapped in the first auto trans would have been to instal an auto temp gauge and and after market trans cooler. These two things would have probably saved the second trans. One thing you can do right away is do the temp gauge, it isn't hard to do and that might save any more damage cause once it starts rising you can cut it and let it cool down.
Realistic non Wagoneer front axle options
in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
Posted
Ford would be the ideal choice (in my opinion) they came with a narrowed down d44 up front and a 9" rear which ford did do their axles right (ford hater here) I almost bought a set of axles out here for 1000$ (okanagan) again they ain't cheap, I would keep an eye on craigslist etc and look for a donor truck. And also look up the differences on years and axles so you can clearly identify which ones they are. Honestly, some people will hate this... One of the earlier xtreme 4x4 episodes they talked about axles and differences in between them, I found that helpful but I hate that spikey haired guy lol