xterra
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Posts posted by xterra
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I can confirm (from personal experience) that first gen Xterra sunroofs are a direct replacement for the WD21 sunroof. That's what I'm running in my rig, since the weather stripping on the original completely deteriorated. The connectors for the sunshade are different than the original WD21 (screw-in versus a cam connector), so grab the shade if you can find one.
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I had planned to do the same thing, but it's not quite as simple as I hoped. There were changes to the metal ribs under the headliner, and the 2-doors don't have a bracket that the 4-door map lights attach to. As for the wiring, it runs up the left hand A pillar, then over the door and around the sunroof (at least one a 1990 2-door).
I ended up giving up on the map lights, but wired an auto-dimming mirror and a Homelink transmitter from a Range Rover in that spot.
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Nice looking R50.
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Replaced the alternator after diagnosing it as the cause of the dead battery. It was only putting out 13 volts and looked like it was still the original.
So got a new unit (not remanned), but now the Brake, Charge, and AT Oil Temp lights are staying on (they weren't on before). Checked the belt tension and tightened the hell out of it, but still have the lights.
Any ideas?
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Wow - now this is a zombie thread! But it's a great one to have come back to life.
10 - Wild & Wicked - Shania Twain
09 - Route 66 - Depeche Mode
08 - Dracula (Matrix Remix) - Rob Zombie
07 - Castaway - Green Day
06 - My Sherona - The Knack
05 - Promised Land - Elvis Presley
04 - Lawless and Lulu - Buckcherry
03 - Sucker for Mystery - Danny Elfman
02 - Song 2 - Blur
01 - Come with me Now - Kongos
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Burning Man
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WD21's didn't have headlight relays. There's a good write-up in the garage section about it: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/4945-headlights-performing-poorly/page-1
Lots of folks here have installed the headlight relay mod, including me. It makes a huge difference.
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Silent Running
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Apple Computer
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Had a no-start issue crop up last weekend (in the middle of moving).
No click at all when I turned the key to try and start it after filling i with fuel.
After checking all the cheap and easy stuff, it turned out to be the starter. Took 4 days to get the part, but it's back on the road again.
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Chicken Nuggets
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I originally replied to a post in this thread on the R50 forum, but figured this was probably a more general topic.
I've been working on seeing if I can get a 2003-2004 R50 SE roof rack to fit on my 2-door WD21.
I found 2 2003 R50 SE roof racks at the local JY for $15 each, so I figured it was worth a try to see if this is doable.
From what I was able to find, the two tracks that mount to the roof are the same for all R50s. The SE models that had the side rails and wind deflector were bolted onto those tracks. R50 body stamping also recesses the tracks into the roof a bit, and uses extra mounting hardware. The mounting hardware is bolted through the roof and then the racks bolt to that hardware.
Since the WD21s don't have that recessed area, I can't use that mounting hardware. And there is about a 1/2 in gap under the tracks that I probably need to fill so that I don't bend the tracks when I bolt them down. I don't want to drop the headliner, so I'm hoping to find a way of using rivnuts and spacers.
There are also width issues. The R50 rack with stock cross-bars is equal in width to where the hump in the WD21 roof tapers down. So I either needed to find new cross-bars that are wider and mount the tracks outside of the hump, or I needed to cut down the cross bar and mount the tracks on the hump.
Since mine's a 2-door, I've also got to deal with the band that runs across the top (where the optional light bar would have mounted). I ended up trimming the cross-bars and wind deflector by about 3 inches and had to shorten the tracks and side rails by about 18 inches.
The last problem is the sizable gap in the front. On the R50s, the side trim that holds the wind deflector straddles a piece of weatherstripping that comes up form the windshield. There's no easy way to replicate that on a WD21.
I'm looking for any suggestion on:
- How I can securely mount this to the roof? Like I said, I'm thinking rivnuts with some spacers under the track. Maybe even get some nuts welded to the track for the front and rear side pieces to bolt into, so I'd bolt the track to the roof and the plastic to the tracks.
- What I can use to fill the gaps in the front? I'm thinking some kind of liquid rubber that hardens as it cures, but I've never worked with it so I don't know how it will last.
Since I've only got $30 and about 20 hours in to the project, I'm not above abandoning it before I drill holes in the roof.
I've got some new pictures I took this morning with some wider shots and more angles than I had in my original reply. (Since things aren't all screwed together, there are some things that don't look like they align, but - other than the gaps in the front bottom - everything looks like will cinch down nicely.
Here's what I've got so far.
Front 3/4 View:
Side View:
Rear 3/4 View:
Close-Up of the Gap:
Front View:
Top View from the Rear:
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For those above with the cruise not working, it may just be you need to replace the rubber bumper on the brake pedal. This definitely applies to WD21s, but I can't say if R50s are the same way.
Here's a great pic of what's going on under the dash: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36370-help-rear-brake-light-stuck-on-abs-dash-light-also-on/?p=684087
One of those bumpers is for the brake lights, the other is for cruise. If the Cruise light on the dash works but you can't set speed, then this is likely your culprit. The parts are about $3 from the dealer, and strongly recommend replacing both at the same time.
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Those holes would probably howl like crazy going down the highway.
That's the biggest concern. I was also thinking filling up the gap with liquid rubber and letting it cure. I can run wiring through the plastic trim easy enough, so I'm not worried about sealing up the holes.
I haven't played with it for a few months, and probably won't be able to do anything else until the week after Christmas. If I'm lucky, I can get it all buttoned up that week.
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I've actually been fiddling with this in the garage. I found 2 2003 SE roof racks at the local JY for $15 each.
From what I was able to find, the two tracks that mount to the roof are the same for all R50s. The SE models that had the side rails and wind deflector were bolted onto those tracks. R50 body stamping also recesses the tracks into the roof a bit, and uses extra mounting hardware. The mounting hardware is bolted through the roof and then the racks bolt to that hardware. Since the WD21s don't have that recessed area, you can't use the mounting hardware and will need to figure out how to securely mount the rack.
There are also width issues. The R50 rack with stock cross-bars is equal in width to where the hump in the WD21 roof tapers down. So you either need to find new cross-bars that are wider and mount the tracks outside of the hump, or you need to cut down the cross bar and mount the tracks on the hump.
Since mine's a 2-door, I've also got to deal with the band that runs across the top (where the optional light bar would have mounted). I ended up trimming the cross-bars and wind deflector by about 2 1/2" and had to shorten the tracks and side rails by about 18". Here are a couple picks with it sitting on the roof. (I haven't mounted it yet because I'm still trying to figure out how to plug the opening at the front that you see in the pics and figure out how to securely attach it to the roof.)
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My first Pathfinder was an R50 that I had for about 2 years when I lived in Southern California. I got it new when I had a short commute. But I ended up moving one way and my job moved the other - so I was commuting 90 miles each way every day. It had over 55K miles on it when I got rid of it for something that got better mileage.
I've had my WD21 for just over 3 years. It had ~154K mies when I got it and now has ~180K miles.
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Christian Bale
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I wonder what the battery warmer looked like?
Like this:
The whole accessory brochure is here: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/1991-nissan-trucks-genuine-accessories-brochure.html
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Here's the list of OEM options that were available in 1991. This is from the Truck Accessory Brochure on NICO Club's site. It lists the rear cargo mat (which was news to me), but everything else on the list I've heard of or seen before.
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We're Almost there !!! Just a few more days....
You are such a tease!
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Pascagoula run
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I own one for nostalgia reasons. When I bought my first car, I got a Sentra instead of a Pathfinder - although I could have afforded either one. That was way back in '87. Once I decided it was time to get the one that got away, it took a year to find what I wanted. It had to be a 2-door with the triangle windows, because that's what "looks right" to me.
So I definitely own and drive my WD21 because I want to. It's already 26 years old, and will only get more rare (like Terranovation said). And I plan to keep it until it rusts ways or falls apart / something breaks that I can't get parts for. But if someone makes me an offer that I can't refuse (like 5-figures), I'd consider selling it.
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sand blast
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I guess I should have been a bit clearer.
"30" is the power source for the switched circuit of the relay. It can be direct from the battery if you want to the circuit work all the time (like you have it). When I said to connect "30" to a switched source, I meant connect it to a source that's only hot when the ignition is on. That's the setup I thought ahardb0dy was looking for (and how I've got mine wired).
In either case, you're right that there should be a fuse on the wire connected to "30".
The connection to "86" is to the switch to control the circuit (in this case, the foglight switch), not the ignition switch. When "86" get's power, it energizes the electromagnet inside the relay to complete the circuit between "30" and "87" - which then sends the power to whatever you want to control.
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WTB Rear Glass hinges for 1990 Pathfinder
in Parts Wanted
Posted
@AndrewC Do you still need these? I've got a sun bleached pair you can have to $15 including USPS express mail.