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Posts posted by CNAM
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.....and the fun begins.
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I'm going wheeling with him this weekend so I can find out and get back to you later tomorrow or Sunday probably
Awesome! Thanks brother!
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My buddy runs one of those with the e fans and I know he's happy with it, I would go for it.
Interesting. I wonder if you could get any specific info. Like dimensions or part number he used and how he went about mounting it and fitment. Close to stock dimensions or oversized? Single fan or dual? Was it actually a Ron Davis radiator? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Are you having problems with overheating? I monitor my coolant temps via an obd2 Bluetooth app and even when I’m towing a trailer, the coolant temps stay around 185-190 with the stock radiator. I think the stock cooling system works pretty well, so I’m not sure there’s much to gain with an aftermarket radiator is all.
Living is SoCal and running 35”tires could have been part of the problem. I had some overheating problems on the trail, uphill, last summer in the heat plus long slow climbs that lead me to a blown head gasket that was very insignificant at first and slowly got worse. I’m currently rebuilding my motor(230,000mi) and thinking more towards extra protection from similar conditions. I was looking into running a turbo kit for a G35/350Z with the same VQ35de but the kit was very expensive and would require a ton of custom fab and ECU tuning as well. The stock radiator is only 6/8” thick aftermarket is 2” thick and approximately the same height and width plus electric cooling fan. Probably will only require custom brackets and maybe hose modification. The obd2 app sounds interesting though
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Here’s what I’m thinking might work well.
25”x16”x5.5”(including fan)
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Anyone have any experience with an aftermarket high performance radiator? I’m thinking I’d like to upgrade to a Ron Davis radiator. This may require eliminating the overflow tank and making some custom brackets to properly mount it. I found two roughly the same height and with but with much more added thickness and electric cooling fan included. They are NOT inexpensive but if possible might be well worth it. Thoughts, comments, suggestions welcome. Thx guys!
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Those look nice. Too bad those bolt heads are not flush and or countersunk.
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Crank time.
Pistons and rings.
Crank.
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Almost don’t stripping the block. Found some compression leak and as suspected blown head gasket.
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Going deep
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Ugh....
Getting ready for complete engine rebuild.
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Trans needs rebuild
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Looks like it’s detached from the sway bar end link.
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I bought my pathfinder new in Dec of ‘00. It’s a ‘01. I did anything but baby it and even properly maintain it as I was fairly young back then and didn’t know much better nor have money to stay up on all required maint. I just early this year had the trans rebuilt at 220,000 miles. From what I’ve heard the transmission in these is close to bulletproof. Not to mention I run 35” tires which has to add stress on the trans. 1,100$ to rebuild and it’s been good as new since then.
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I am about to replace both thermostats and the water pump on mine. It’s been slightly overheating. These trucks have two thermostats that control the coolant flow through the cooling system. I would recommend using OEM Nissan parts. I’m not sure there’s any other type of water control valve other than the thermostats. And if they begin to get stuck the truck will run hot.
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Can't leave park unless I stick a thin stick (I use a tire pressure end from 7-11) it's been like this for months
If I wanna leave park I have to stick the stick into the shift lock each time
Any hacks to this ? I'm not very handy, how expensive of a job would this be? I'm sure it's just a buste spring or something
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Also , my 2004 is nearing 100k miles (I'm at 96k now )
WhAt type of maintence shoul I do soon? Spark plugs? New brake calipers? I changed my trans fluid at 90k and that eliminated a mild trans shutter at highway speeds so all set there.
Think I need to replace my muffler again smh, any great pathy mufflers for good price? I changed it at around 82k and was changed when I got it at 50k
Shift lock solenoid has failed like mine did years ago. You can get it into other positions by reaching under the passenger side of the shifter cover and manually flipping it with your finger. I recommend having someone press the brake pedal for you as you look and see what small piece is getting stuck or failing to move or not allowing the shifter to unlock then cutting the tab with angle cutters. I ended up cutting mine so that it never locks. This allows the shifter to move without pressing the brake pedal. As far as a muffler check my profile. I put a flowmaster. I love that muffler. Hope this helps!
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I wired mine directly to the existing fog light wires. So it comes on with my fog lights. Easy.
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Did they replace the shift solenoids when the trans was rebuilt?
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yeahSo you did hear the growling problem after installing the SFD?
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i just made my own UCA’s for the rear and that took care of the rear diff angle and growling on high speed decel.Hi guys,
A couple of months ago I installed the SFD in combination with my AC 2" lift, so now I'm running about 6" total lift. After installing the lift, I noticed a growling vibration at the rear end when lightly decelerating (very light pressure on the accelerator while still slowing) when driving at any speed above about 40 mph. It is most noticeable at higher speeds. There is no sound under acceleration or under deceleration (engine braking). There were no such issues before installing the additional 4" of lift.
After talking with a couple of different shops, the consensus seems to be that the rear driveshaft angle is too steep and the vibration is caused by this angle. We measured the pinion-to-driveshaft and slip yoke-to-driveshaft angles, and they are about 18°. It is believed that in order to fix this, I'll need a double-cardan (CV) driveshaft. Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts makes these for the Xterra, which uses the same driveline as the R50. (http://www.4xshaft.com/Xterra2.asp). In addition, it is believed that I also need to reduce the pinion angle, so I also need custom adjustable upper links. It seems that there is not very much more axle droop possible with the 6" lift installed using stock upper and lower suspension links.
This morning, I visited a wrecking yard that has a 2WD '96 R50. I discovered that the 2WD driveshaft is split into 2 sections after the transmission, and the rear section of the shaft which moves with the suspension is much shorter than the 4WD driveshaft. Moreover, it also has 2 double-cardan joints.
I wonder if it would be possible to take the 2WD shaft, attach the slip yoke to the front joint and have a custom-length center section made for cheaper than it would cost to have Tom Woods build one ($569). Thoughts?
Finally, my questions for you who have installed lifts over 4" are these:
Who has lifted their R50 more than 6", and what did you do to the rear suspension to achieve this?
Have you noticed any new driveline noises after installing the lift?
Have you had to make changes to the rear suspension links in order to improve the pinion angle?
What is the angle of the driveshaft if you haven't made any changes?
Thanks?
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Take it for alignment. Possibly time to change your struts.
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Race Track
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Remove front drive/prop shaft and cv axles. Then it's 2wd.
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Do you have a link for it please?
Local stealership... Dlr only parts. Cost about 160$ but worth every penny. That $hit$ been driving me crazy for years....
Part numbers :
90502-5W30B LOCKASSY-B $141.45
90570-70N1A STRIKER-BA $23.76
What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
Posted
Maybe he got at your in cabin air filter and shredded it up trying to make a nest. It’s an easy and cheap part to replace.
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