Manik

WOW!! I just read through this. So Cool!! Has there been any more progress?

I would only be changing the diameter of the pipe and moving the exhaust to the pas side header, this would make a difference? Hmm.. Ok, I will buy that, the o2 will stay in its location, but, I'd rather move the cat closer to the headers make it "heat up" quicker. I'd only be running a single exhaust with the factory routing..

Just curious on mileage had by some of the folks here. I just got my beast back on the road after sitting in the garage for six years, $650 for a junkyard engine, $200 for a set of pacesetter header and a whole lot of love, hate and busted knuckles later she's on the road and I'm averaging 18 mpg. Guess I'll have to note that the engine I installed had been rebuilt sometime shortly before the donor pathys demise from a front end collision, so, I got very lucky. Oh yea, this is engine #3.

And if I were to change brands all together, it'd be a 70's or early 80's Chevy 4x4 short bed to be sure. But, that said, with today's fuel prices, it won't be a big block or even a small 5.7. Well maybe a 5.7 (350) that'd depend on where I am financially in this world. Maybe and early jeep grand Cherokee. Possibilities are endless.

As far as the 4.3 v6. The bottom end hasn't changed much, but, the addition of a balance shaft and a rather pitiful fuel injection system in the mid to late 90's as well as into this decade has plagued the 4.3. The older throttle body 4.3's that came in the early s-10/s-15 gm minitrucks and into late 90's full size are workhorses to be sure. There is a video on YouTube from road kill tv of an old 260z that's had an s-10 engine and 5 speed tranny swapped into it and it made over 400 hp after they installed a turbo from a 7.3 diesel truck. That said, the earlier the 4.3 the better.

They look like resonators or something. I'm not sure. 2.5 is only one inch larger than factory, so, that's the rout I'll probably go. I'm thinking about moving the o2 sensor to the pas side header, considering the connector for it is on that side. When I had the state inspection done, the nox was high, everything else was well below standard for Texas regulations. Not sure what that's all about. What I want to do is keep all legal but get better performance without too many mods, at the moment anyways.

After 6 years of sitting in my garage my pathfinder is back on the road. Running like a champ after six hours in front of my house taking care of an issue that I overlooked during a year of re-assembling this beast. I have installed pacesetter headers, which after a bit of redneck engineering made them work as they should. I should note that they helped the performance tremendously and mileage as well considering I'm getting an average of 18 on the highway. I'd like to do a performance exhaust, going to a 2.5 - 3 inch system and probably a flow master muffler. Hence the question, what are the two devices just prior to the catalytic converter and are they necessary?

With the pulley off of the crank balancer and #1 piston at TDC and all timing marks lined up, there should be a line on the balancer that lines up with the pointer on the timing cover. Align this mark with the marks on the balancer. On my 95, there are seven marks, when all is aligned correctly, there should be one mark to the left of TDC and the remaining to the right. All should be correct at this point. The timing mark on the crank and the timing mark on the balancer do not coincide, they are about 160 degrees apart, which is normal.

280, I think I got lucky, this time.

Darned if it isn't fixed. There was some pretty good wear in the key slot on the crank and a fair amount on the gear, luckily I had all of the necessary parts to get the job done right (without replacing the crankshaft : since there's 140-150 ft lbs + of torque on that retainer bolt and with the gear being "sandwiched". As long as I don't get crazy with it, I think it'll be fine.. Any thoughts/opinions??

The key that holds the crank gear in place sheared off. Wallowed out the key in the crank a little bit, hopefully won't be an issue.

Not the only issue. I'll upload pics later. Don't know how this happened, well I know, I've never seen it before.

Looks like the bolt on the harmonic balancer backed out just enough for the timing to slip.

Will do, but, the check engine light is not on and I know the rotor is spinning, that's been checked already. Have some othe things that I'm going to check out tomorrow, probably, er hopefully something simple. I did see the earlier post on the corroded wires, I know there's one at the positive battery cable that is going to get fixed tomorrow. I also noticed some corrosion on the TPS connector, all else looks ok. But, as we all know, looks can be deceiving.

I have a similar issue, except for the fact that it won't start at all now. Checked spark, good there, fuel is good, 45 psi at the rail, and just set the timing to 15* BTDC. Am I missing something? All this started two days ago, driving home, busy interstate and it won't get past 35 mph. I made it off of interstate 30, then she died. Any assistance is appreciated.

I guess that's a possibility, but, the speedo has been acting wacky for about a week. At 60-65 mph it would bounce from 50 to 80 and finally settle back down. But the speedo has done that off and on since the day I purchased it over 9 years ago. I will check the fuse for the cluster, but, being the skeptic that I am, believe it's something more. I'd think that if the fuse were blown not even the idiot light would work, but, I couldn't say for sure.

On my way to work this morning I noticed my speedo, tach and temp gauges quit working. The idiot light for the alternator was on, so I figured, low voltage equals dead alternator. I checked the voltage output on it, which was 13.5 volts. So its charging the battery, right. The headlights stayed bright on my 35 mile trek to work, so I made it without issue. I haven't had a chance to check anything else considering I am at work and don't have time, yet. I will check on it hopefully at lunch. My pathy is a '95 with a 3.0 and 5 spd. Any ideas guys? Oh yeah, this "Beast" I have only been driving about 3 weeks. It's been a work in progress for a few years, and I guess, still is... Any assistance would be greatly appreciated...

I have the EXACT same issue with my pathy and the issue with it is the fuel level sender in the fuel tank. If you have a volt/ohm meter you can test it. I have the FSM for up to 1995, the resistance should be approximately 3 ohms to 94 ohms. it's really easy to pull and test, depending on what year your rig is. My 95 has a fuel pump access plate under the back carpet so I don't have to drop the tank to get to it. Any earlier models should be the same. hope this helps.

Thanks, I completely forgot about having the FSM on my PC. The spec on it, FYI is 3 (full) - 95 (Empty) ohms. Now I just have to find a suitable replacement. I think I can pick on up for about 30 bucks.

Does anyone know what the ohm values are for a 1995 Pathy fuel level sensor? Most of the aftermarket are 0-90 Ohm or 33-240 Ohm. I'd like be able to NOT spend 150 bones just for the fuel level sensor when I know there has to be a suitable replacement in the aftermarket that can be mounted to the factory hardware in the factory position. If it comes down to it, I will just install the gauge and sensor, would rather not do that though.

Appreciate the advice... Well, now I'm trying to locate a fuel level sender for my truck and let me tell you, it's not a simple task. Nissan has the unit available at a cost of about $150. The sender is the only thing that is bad, now anyways. Going to start another thread for that issue.

Yes the filter under the hood has been changed, that was the first this that I swapped after replacing the engine, but, I didn't blow out the lines. By the way, the vinegar works great on rust. Nismo, never heard of vinegar? You've had pickles before? That is what cucumbers are soaked in to make pickles. Anyways, I'd planned on acetone or laquer thinner, probably acetone, but, from what I can find both will get the job done. As far as rust in the tank, I am going to try and look in the tank with a mirror and see how many spots there are that are rusty, I know there is one, but, don't know how many, if any at all more. As far as running 10 year old fuel, the fuel 10 years ago didn't have the concentration of alcohol/ethanol that todays fuel does. My pathy ran on fuel that had been in the tank for over 3 years, that's another story. With the ethanol/alcohol in the fuel today it doesn't last very long. The alcohol/ethanol bonds with water molecules and reeks havoc in a gasoline powered vehicle. Hopefully I will have it running and driving in the next couple of weeks, hopefully. We shall see.

Ok, here goes. I've got a 1995 Pathy, now, here's the story. This thing sat for over 5 years with about a half a tank of fuel (gas) waiting on engine replacement. The engine is in, after getting it to a point where it should be running, it won't. Now, I've got spark, the timing is close enough for it to run (will start with carb cleaner sprayed in the intake). I drained the tank, the fuel smelled horrible, put 5 gallons of fresh fuel in it and the fuel system still reeks of bad fuel. I pulled the fuel pump access door and pulled the fuel pump. The whole assembly was solid rust. The fuel lever sending unit is toast, but, it hasn't read right since I've owned the thing, so its going to get replaced. I have cleaned up the entire assembly with white vinegar, including the pump. It still pumps just fine, I think the good fuel hasn't made it to the injectors yet. Now for the big ???? inside the fuel tank looks actually pretty good. Only one rust spot that I can see in the tank, so, I guess I am looking for advise here, I'd rather not pull the tank, but, will if necessary. What I'd like to do is coat the inside of the tank with vinegar and cap it for a couple of days down here in the Texas heat. What are your thoughts on this, do you think the fumes in the tank will be enough to clean the rust?

Has anyone used the VHT Flame Proof Ceramic paint? Any recommendations on preparation? Seen different opinions on other forums and just thought I'd toss it out here and see what everyone's opinions are.

I've seen this issue numerous times on other model Nissan's, some other foreign vehicles and Saturn's had the problem. The motor oil eventually causes deterioration of the plug boot and I'd be willing to bet if you look at the spark plug and the inside of the boot on the plug wire, look for a white to gray tracer caused by the energy from the coil taking the "path of least resistance". Your best course of action is to replace all wires, plugs, both valve cover gaskets, grommets as well and make sure that the valve cover gasket seats are all flat. Hope this helps, oh and FYI, don't skimp on the cover gaskets and grommets. As well, I'd get a bit better spark plug wire set as well.