wolkersdorfer2

It seems to smell just fine, that why i didnt guess wrong fuel mixture via vaccumm, o2 etc. and i do have an exhaust mani leak. my question is why do our rigs weigh less than a cherokee, have a lot less power and a lot less displacement and seem more aerodynamic and get less gas millage? My buddy had 31's on his cherokee and averages 18 in town...

I know i dont have a TBI pathy but ive been shocked at my gas millage. in a bad way. the only thing i have aftermarket that i know of is the 30x9-15r tires, and a shift kit. my mpg is about 13-14 city and 15-16 highway. seeing how i do pizza deliver downtown, i do 90% city driving. it has had a whole tune up, i dont know what to do to try to get it to be less thirsty. if there were any clean civics on cl i would buy one and have it paid off in a month but for now im stuck with this. suggestions?

Oh i do! I was the one that made that nice picture, then i had to be the one to go make it and i said to myself, "nice picture, now how the heck am i supposed to build this?". I had to change even more because i redesigned around the free materials in our shop, instead of buying "specialty stock" myself. After all, that is what i did with the cable, cable housing, lights, wiring switches etc to make it work, and sourcing those pizza car topper magnets all has put me over $50 (would be $70 more but i got the magnets free)

Update! So, being a CADD drafter, my original design was very intricate and unbelievably complicated, when you take into account the tools and materials that were available to me. After a complete redesign of the system, keeping the raw mechanical ideas the same, this is what ive built so far. *please excuse the nasty welds... You can see here where the cable housing fits into the square extrude from the right side plate, directly under the light bar. on the other side of that square extrude the hole is only just over 1/16th inch to allow just the cable through. the cylindrical extrude up in the back is where a reducing pulley will sit, its job is to make it so when i turn a lot, the lights only turn a little. I am waiting on my CNC guy to get those back. One of my major problem has been sourcing the magnets. I finally got some! (temporary as it is under the radar) Since the middle two lights are permanently stationary, i figured i would throw those on. And i am pleased to say those magnets hold it down very well, even at freeway speeds. I have been running my truck like this for weeks, it is impossible to find either side corner light or the passenger headlight or the door handle around here. grill is in the back waiting to get put on. I know you guys want to see the lights moving and i promise that will come soon!!

not too sure if this will clear things up, but I've finished a solid model of the design of how the lights will work, what you're looking at is the light bar held down by magnets, and if you look closely you can see my cursor turning at the rate my steering wheel turns, and the light turning to 75 degrees at full lock. again this is just the design model. since the video i have changed it to 4 lights, (got a little carried away with 6) and added the spring necessary to take the slack up underneath the light bar, since there is no room in between the light and light bar.

no ones ever said that before XD I definitely plan on going back. in fact, i would sugest him to everyone in spokane!

Yes its stock thats why it was harder to find, somehow they are easier to find than a passenger side corner light though!!!

Fender fixed and new wheel! the fender flare he ordered was the wrong one, it didnt have the mud flap like mine did. so that is still on hold.

Pathfinder is at the shop today getting the new fender put on. I took it to get the wheel balanced and they said its bent and will need replaced. so i still need the fender flare replaced, wheel replaced, and an allignment, then i will be good to go!

Thats what i assumed until tungsten said that... still dont know why he wants me to pull the fender, or have an adjuster come look at it... All these stories make me wish so much more that i had my own shop! i still do an impressive ammount of work in my 10x15 garage.

do what? sorry if im not savvy here... Ive never dealt with my insurance. other than paying them.

That is what i plan on. Ive done work with him before and he has always been straight. its a mom and pop type shop i went to after getting screwed over multiple times with my other shop.

Yes. Considering the worst thing that has ever happened to any of my cars is that i bent a rim on a curb, its crazy it happened this way. i am very glad no one was hurt and the mechanic didnt get hit by someone else or something, this should be pretty straight forward.

Okay, so its not that bad, but here is what happened. I had my truck at the shop, getting a lot of work done to it. When it was done my mechanic said that before he took it for a test drive, he forgot to put the lug nuts back on, so when he drove it the wheel fell off and caused this. i came to see my truck like this: I consider myself fairly good at reading people, and he seemed sincerely embarrassed at his mistake and i have no doubt he will completely have it repaired professionally. I know someone who works at the best body shop in town so i am taking it there.

before i bought my pathfinder my brother got a 91 XJ, and as it did have a lot more power than my pathfinder, we are finding more and more that my "cheap" nissan is just as capable off road, and more capable on road. the only thing the jeep has going for it in my opinion is aftermarket support. i have found there really isnt much support for these, but there is a good amount, you just cant compete with how much there is for an XJ. besides, custom fab is bomb anyways! (and i love these fender buldges! lol)

i drive my pathfinder a LOT. and the best fuel economy ive ever gotten was driving at 52mph after a tuneup down hill with a tailwind... got 22mpg. i drove as efficiently as possible in town and got 15... you get better mpg than my spectrum. (geo metro)

if i did do mechanical it would probably be cable driven, set to open at full lock, and compress at opposite lock. like the brakes/derailer on a mountain bike.

still dont know if i will go with electrical servos or all mechanical. mechanical might be even harder but i know my instructors will help me out with it if its all mechanical.

before poke after poke sitting on 30"s, see how i would want to go with 31"s? i think they would fill the gap better, look bulkier. some fun and what do you guys think, bug guard or no bug guard? i kindof like having no bug guard because you can see the iconic nose holes.

Hey guys! Sorry i havent replied in forever. I havent had any internet access and it is killing me! I also havent been stagnant in my progress on my pathy as well. Right now its sitting on new 30" tires with some more aggressive offset, however i am thinking upgrading to 31's to gain an extra inch in width. and would like a tad more poke. as for fixing things it runs like new! got everything fixed (besides that stupid exhaust mani leak) but still cant find any bull bars of any kind. as for roof racks / lights, i was going through the woods in a tight trail on a hard right corner, on a steep incline, in the middle of the night. thats when i decided to tackle this project. i am trying to end up with 2 or 4 lights to face forward but have two lights, one on each side, turn in the direction i am turning. doesn't seem too difficult, will keep you guys posted! lets see if i can get some pictures up...

broken mani studs causing tick? how does that happen? and if the studs are broken, that seems like a horrible fix in freezing temperatures...

Thanks i heard the 95's have 5x7 all 'round, just ordered me an early christmas present of a kenwood deck and 4 alpine 5.7's for only 200 bucks! will go nicely with my kenwood pair of 12's. as for the timing belt, i am going to get that done ASAP. there is an RPM dependent "tick" which gets louder under load, how common is valve tick on these? my brother has a '91 MR2 which has really loud valve tick which was normal for those engines but i want to make sure nothing else is wrong

so my father used to be a master mechanic for diesel trucks and said i actually had a timing "chain" instead of a belt, and so i do not need to get it done... i feel like a $600 prevention is better than a $2000 repair... as for doing it myself i know if i tried it myself i would be out the car for a week, and losing ~$120 a night is worse than spending 600 for only 1 or 2 days loss...

awesome i will have to try that. seeing how its undriveable because ive taken everything apart to deep clean it and install whole new stereo, might as well do that too right? i'll update if it works or not.

i thought my rig looked strangely like a rodeo, looks like im just missin the hub caps. i took it over to my shop and let them give it a good once-over, they said its in surprisingly good condition for over 200k miles, just needs timing belt and tie rod ends and im solid! theres a couple tiny paint chip rust spots but none anywhere else. so i am pretty happy with it. I can do the tie rod ends myself and have it aligned however ive never done a timing belt, how much can i expect to pay for the shop to do that? im budgeting about 600 bucks...