92Path_68CJ
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Posts posted by 92Path_68CJ
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I've vaguely heard of a buy back program years ago but didn't investigate it as I was so insulted. I have a 1978 VW Bug Cabriolet in my garage that I've been customizing slowly over the years. It's not a show car but its worth at least $5k as it sits and will be $8-10k when it is done; the DMV sent me a letter offering me $800 to get my old poluting crap off the road. Funny thing, the stock fuel injection system runs less efficiently than the 2.0 liter Porsche 914 motor with dual carbs that would be in it IF THEY LET ME!! Ehem, I digress...
Well, that was an easy google search...
http://www.arb.ca.go...g/avrp/avrp.htm
B
Well there you have it! Trogdor commented saying "but you pretty much had to be jobless to qualify for the income".
It helps that my mom and I are jobless currently.
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CA will buy it for $1,500.
I'll have to tell my dad 'bout that, one of our mechanic friends took a one look at it (from a distance) and said air intake.
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This air intake B.
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Good question B,
The 92 has 233k miles on it, and for the record, I've never been unhappy with the car. All the problems I have had were related lack of maintenance and abuse from family members. I have already posted a classified add, I'll be working on it today.
I honestly don't even know what this thing is supposed to be myself (besides an air intake), but my dad and I always called it the factory snorkel, that's what it reminds us of. I'll have pics here after class today.
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They definetly aren't hard to fix, but it takes cash I don't have. The rot is bad enough that the metal has begun to take on a flakey layered consistancy. I forget to mention the trans is slipping bad, been rebuilt once, can't afford to rebuild or replace. The state of CA will buy it for more than I can get on the market here, so I'm just gonna sell off some of the parts, and then sell it to the state.
This was not an easy choice, I'm sure some of you know what it's like to sell a car you've owned for 20 years, its equally hard when its been there your whole life.
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Well gang, I don' think I've ever really introduced myself here, so I guess an intro is in order first.
I own a 1992 Pathfinder SE automatic, it was owned by my dad before me, he purchased it new off the dealer lot in 1992. It's been in the family for 20 years. Around 4 or 5 years after he bought it, he sold it to my aunt. The well cared for car was then beat to hell in Utah for years, tackling blizzards and storms in the name of skiing. In 2001, we bought it back, and it was ours again ever since.
But that time in Utah wasnt kind to the car. The leather interior was stained and ripped up, the floor dirty, the factory rackbars replaced with Yakama crossbars. It's been our 4x4 ever since. We've done black diamond trails all over socal, and even gave John Bull a try, all with factory running boards and no lift.
This morning, I took it in to get it smog checked. It failed
That in itself isnt so bad, but I can barely afford the gas, the a/c doesnt work anymore, it needs all new belts (including timing), new seat covers, tires, it's starting to get body rot under the rear seats. I just can't afford this car anymore. So I'm selling it to the state. I hope some of you understand what it's like to sell a car you've owned your whole life, its sure hard.
There will be some exterior parts availible in the coming weeks. I will post an add once they are for sale.
I don't really know where I was going with this, just venting dissapointment I guess.
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Walmart battery, with CCA of 750.
Works great on the pathy and even better on my CJ, which needs a ton of power like my last diesel...
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Why? The 3.6 has 85 more horsepower and better gas mileage.
Sorry, that was suppesed to be don't get the 3.8.
I've read that it's underpowered in the four door.
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If you want a Wrangler, you have to go for the 2011 model year. So far it seems to have been the most successful one. Also, DO NOT get the automatic transmission. You really want the manual transmission because the automatic equipped ones have been involved in literally just burning down. It's a pretty capable truck for sure but it's not really my cup of tea. I would rather have a well built WD21 for all that money. Of course, if you don't have the time and just want a factory 4x4 with warranty, the 2011 would be the Jeep thing to stick to.
As I recall (don't quote me on this) the burning down stemmed from brake line issues.
Also, make sure its a 3.8. You'd regret the 3.6 in a four door.
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Can you ever get the money back out of a Jeep that you've taken out and wheeled?
Part it and cross your fingers.
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You have already become a typical jeep owner and you don't have one yet.
I think it's more about knowing the limits of your vehicle.
The Pathfinder is a very capable vehicle.
The JKs are very capable vehicles.
However, they both would most likely shine in different areas in their stock forms.
The level of confidence the driver has with the limits of his vehicle helps, and his overall knowledge of wheeling imo.
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I'm more of a CJ guy myself.
I've been equally as capable as most stock JKs, so far.
That being said, the 2012 4 doors are nice, watch out for that recall on the 3.8 heads.
Oh, and I sure hope the overall crawl ratio is better than 4:1 .
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The light on the dash I assume?
Did you check the all doors and make sure all the knobs/sensors are working?
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I'm diggin' that vinyl, do ya mind me asking where you got it?
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I was going to suggest cleaning contacts and checking the connections.
Mine doesnt work at all.
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The fuel filter on WD21s and D21s is in the engine bay next to the power steering fluid reservoir. Be sure to release fuel pressure before replacement by pulling the fuel pump fuse and starting the engine then waiting for it to stall. Put a drain pan underneath to catch gasoline.
Thanks Town! Another thing to the list, with the upper ball joints, belts, timing belt, a/c, brakes.....
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I wondered where the fuel filter is! Does that count?
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Update:
Received today.
First, they only sent me 2 uppers and one lower, which is odd because I was charged for 2 uppers and lowers.
Second- Im not convinced the lower is a Moog. It is not greasable, and the bag is completely different than the uppers. Every Moog part I have ever seen has been stamped "555" ( which I believe is Sankei...which makes a lot of OEM parts from what I've read) but at the least the uppers are greasable...and they all showed up in One Source boxes...which from my research are dirt cheap everywhere and are a Federal Mogul brand. I'm gonna have to call Rock Auto and find out what's going on. My last order of Moog closeout was a set of TRE's, and they were perfect. These seem kinda sketchy.
Would love to know what's up, I don't know what the difference between One Source and TRE is, but I got Once Source uppers today.
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It plows snow that goes up to my knees where my Jeep gets stuck.
It just goes and goes, period.
It won't die.
Blown radiators. (3)
Up to three years without an oil change.
Valve job once, and it's still ticking at 232k miles.
Besides, it does a decent job at pulling my real toy during summer and spring.
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My 2001 F250 Diesel had an extended warranty. That truck had so many problems, the only way it was worth only was that warranty.
I don't even remember what was covered anymore, but for all the problems it had, the warranty was the only thing that made it worth while.
Replaced:
- Fuel injectors
- Intercooler
- Intercooler boot twice
- Turbo
- Trans rebuild
- Some sort of chipset related to the Turbo.
That truck was only worth it for the warranty. As soon as it ran out, it was gone.
You'd be hauling a fifth wheel up a steep incline and there would be no turbo! The engine would struggle for almost 15 seconds until the turbo kicked in and it would haul fine.
- Fuel injectors
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I take mine on anything I can find, dirt roads to black diamond trails. But it doesn't always work so well, hence my current icon.
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Yea I'd sell it to a member here. Someone is always looking.
I don't know, after reading all this, maybe I should keep it!
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I add a couple of 2" x 8" x 36" planks to wedge under the tires in the snow or sand for traction when stuck, and a couple of short 4" x 4" pieces that I have used with my barrel jack when I have been hung up on the frame.....
To add onto my dad, we carry:
- Ice chest with drinks and 2-3 days worth of food.
- Camelbaks with 3 liters of water each and some basic survival tools (poncho, lighter, first aid kit, etc).
- Change of clothes, including shoes.
- Heavy duty jumper cables leftover from our diesel f250.
- 2 Shovels.
- 2 Crowbars (large and small).
- 3 .50 Cal ammo cans to store tools.
- Socket sets, complete (in 3/8 drive and 1/2).
- Channel Locks.
- Vice Grips.
- Full roll of electrical tape.
- 2-3 rolls of duct tape.
- Power drill and drill bits.
- Power inverter and shop light.
- 3 gallons of radiator fluid.
- 3 quarts of 10w-40.
- One quart of PS fluid.
- One quart of brake fluid.
- One quart of autotrans fluid.
- Whatever is left in the wiper fluid container.
- Previously mentioned boards.
- Metal loading ramps.
- Ice chest with drinks and 2-3 days worth of food.
Welding front axel?
in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
Posted · Edited by 92Path_68CJ
Ok, I think you might have two things confused here.
Welding your front diff will have no effect on your freewheeling hubs.
There is nothing wrong with the freewheeling hubs, they just weren't designed for serious off roading. Most members swap them for WARN or similar branded free wheeling hubs.
Welding your front diff is a bad idea to me. That's permenant, no going back. Plus, a welded diff is only as strong as you are skilled in welding. Of course if you or the welder is knowledgable, this is not a factor.
Not to mention steering would be unpleasent. I recommend a set of selectable lockers, locked when you need it, open when you dont. This way you have no effect on you street driing at all. Speaking of which...
How often will you be on the street? That will make a difference as to whether welding the front and rear is for you IMO.